MASTER 
NEGA  TIVE 

NO.  91-80363 


MCROFILMED  1991 
COLUMBIA  UNIVERSITY  LIBRARIES/NEW  YORK 


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AUTHOR: 


HARPER,  CHARLES 

GEORGE 


TITLE: 


ON  THE  ROAD  IN 
HOLLAND  ... 

PLACE: 

LONDON 

DATE: 

[1 922] 


COLUMBIA  UNTVERSl-n  1  TBRARIES 

PRESERVA-ilON  DEI^AR-i'MENT 


Master  Negative  # 


IflllLLQGR  APiiLCMICR(3F0RNl  T  ARG  E  I 


Origsn.il  M-aeri.i!  as  rihned  -  Iixisling  iiibiiograpluc  RvCxji.': 


9'^  ■ .  2 


Harper^  Charles  George,  l^ti:;-^ 

*'^^  ^'^'*  -''^-^  i^^  HuHand:  noi^-s  and  impressions  in  the 


]H- 


1:^22 


i  iaa-i  rali'u    b}*    tjie    aiili 


Har- 

nuia      l.oaauii,    V,    F;aratr 


viii,  9-266  p.  incl.  front.,  illus.,  plates.    221'"^. 


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Kestriciiur.:^  a 


a  bt: 


1.  Netherlands— Descr    5c  ^rav  i    Title. 


Library  of  Congiess 


lj]}-f  lis 


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23-6573 


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Association  for  information  and  Image  IManagement 

1100  Wayne  Avenue,  Suite  1100 
Silver  Spring,  Maryland  20910 

301/587-8202 


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ON  THE  ROAD 
IN  HOLLAND 


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ON   THE  ROAD  IN   HOLLAND 


BY  THE  SAME  AUTHOR 


The  Brighton  Road:    The  Classic  Highway  to  the 

South 
The  Gret  X^^th  Road:    Ix)ndon  to  York 
The  Grli.   :\  ...ih  Road:    York  to  Edinburgh 
The  Dover  Road  :    Annals  of  an  Ancient  Turapike 
The  Bath  Road  :    History,  Fashion  and  Frivolity  on 

an  old  Highway 
Thf  Manchester  and  Glasgow  Road:    London  to 

Manchester 
The  Manchester  and  Glasgow  Road  :  Manchester 

to  Glasgow 
The  Portsmouth  Road  :   To-day  and  in  Davs  of  Old 
The  Exeter  Road  :    The  West  of  England  Highway 
The  Holyhead  Road  :    London  to  Birmingham 
The  Holyhead  Road  :    Birmingham  to  Holyhead 
The  Norwich  Road  :    An  East^Anglian  Highway 
The  Hastings  Road:     And  the  Happy  Springs    of 

Tunbridge 
The  Oxford  and  Milford  Haven  Road:    London 

to  Gloucester 
The  Oxford  and  Milford  Haven  Road  :  Gloucester 

to  Milford  Haven 
The  Newmarket  and  Cromer  Road 
The  Cambridge  and  King's  Lynn  Road  :  The  Great 

Fenland  Highway 


/'    ',   jv    I  ri '  >    t  '.     1:.*  RA 


^    ^Mf 


.A 


— ■      ■      ■  ■■--■'-;         f    -Jk  ■   ^^-  «—  ■       ^       ■  '  •   ■        *  **  "*  '  V 


DOEDRECUT. 


v~ 


%  - 


THE    ROAD    IN 


\  f 


*       i 


NOTES  AND  IMPRESSIONS  IN  THE 


UNTRY  Of  1)YK.E>  AND 
CAiNALS 


BY 


CHARLES   G.   HARPER 


ILLUSTRATED  BY  THE  AUTHOR 


LONDON : 

CECIL    PALMER 

Oakley  House,  Bloomsbury  Street,  W.C.  i 


■3^7'/^ 


FIRST 
EDITION 
1922 
COPY- 
RIGHT 


Printer 


n  at  the  Athenaeum  Print! n^  w 


•  edhMa 


Mi 

r- 


LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS 


SEPARATE  PLATES 


DORDEECHT 


Frontispiece 

PAGE 


Breda . .  . .         . .         • .         • •         • •         •  •         •  •         . .     41 

Leyden  :  Stadhuis  Tower  and  the  Old  Rhine         . .         . .     95 

Old  Houses  on  the  Waterloo  Plein,  Amsterdam        . .         ..115 

The  Waag  and  Stadhuis,  Monnickendam         127 

HooRN  Waterpoort 145 

Enkhuizen  :  the  Waterpoort  and  Drommedaris  Tower        . .  151 
Hindeloopen,  and  the  Palisades  of  the  Zuider  Zee.  .         . .  173 

HiNDELOOPEN   ChURCH  AND   StADHUIS  179 

Workum..         ..         ..         ..         ••         ••         ••         ••         ••  185 

Staircase  to  the  Stadhxhs,  Bolsward 193 

Grouw    . .         . .         . .         . .         . .         •  •         •  •         •  •         •  •  197 

The  Stork's  Home  on  a  Dutch  Farm 205 

A  Dutch  Country  House  :  Dekema  State        215 

The  Hindeloopen  Room  in  the  Friusch  Museum,  Leeuwarden  229 
Groote  Markt  and  St.  Martin's  Tower,  Groningen..  ..  239 
A  Dutch  Country  Scene  :  Road  and  Canal 245 

Zulphen's  Skyline  :  "  The  Last  Enchantments  of  the  Middle 
Ages  ..         ..         ••         ••         ••         ••         ••         •• 


257 


ILLUSTRATIONS  IN   THE  TEXT 


The  Zeeland  Head-dress 
Town  Hall,  Middelburg  . 
The  "  Scots  "  House,  Veere 
The  "  Prinsenhof  " 


page 
.     24 

.     27 

.     34 

.     66 


vui. 


LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS 


i  :    M  luritehuis  

Kembrandt's  Mill,  Leyden 

Ex-Voto  Ships,  Haarlem 

The  Groote  Markt,  Haarlem    . . 

Amsterdam  Gate,  Haarlem     . . 

The  Weepers'  Tower,  Amsterdam     . . 

Kasteel  Ass  um  burg 

Volendam  

A  Volendam  Fisherman 
A  Little  Boy  of  Volendam 
A  Little  Girl  of  Marken 

Fisherm'-'^  Houses,  Marken     . 

Market  Place.  Hoora 

The  Little  Shop,  Hoorn 

Wieringen  Harbour 

Oofiterland  

"  Schopenhauer,  kom  " 

Reclamation  Works  on  the  Zuider  Zee 
Old  Doorway  at  Hindeloopen   . 
A  Canal  Street,  Bolsward 
Stadhuis,  Bolsward 

•  •  •  •  • 

Waterpoort,  Sneek 
Sirtema  State 
Finial  to  Farm  Roof 
The  Hinnerin 
Washing  in  the  Moat 


"n 


njp 


Entrance  to  the  Popta  Slot 
The  Zakkerdragerspiepke,  Franeker 
xi  JJatch  Clothes  Horse  . 
An  Old-fashioned  Signpost 
Another  Old-fashioned  Signpost 
One  of  the  Hunnebedden,  Rolde 
The  Staphorst  Costume 
Taking  Toll  on  a  Canal 


FAOa 

•  • 

•  • 

. .  80 

•  • 

•  • 

•  • 

..  98 

•  • 

•  • 

•  • 

..  104 

•  • 

•  • 

•  • 

..  107 

•  • 

•  • 

•  • 

..  110 

•  • 

•  • 

•  • 

..  112 

•  • 

•  • 

•  • 

..  120 

•  • 

«  • 

•  • 

..  130 

•  • 

•  t 

•  • 

..  132 

•  • 

•  • 

•  • 

..  134 

•  • 

•  • 

•  • 

..  137 

•  • 

•  • 

•  • 

. .  141 

•  • 

•  • 

•  • 

..  148 

•  • 

•  • 

•  • 

..  149 

•  • 

•  • 

•  • 

..  158 

•  • 

•  • 

>  • 

..  162 

•  • 

•  • 

»  • 

..  164 

•  • 

•  • 

»  • 

..  168 

•  • 

>  •        1 

..  177 

*  *         ■ 

•        « 

.  187 

*  •         « 

•        « 

.  189 

*  •         ■ 

.  191 

•  •       • 

.  200 

•  •         « 

.  201 

•  •         « 

.  207 

*  *         • 

.  218 

•  •        • 

.  220 

•  •         « 

.  221 

*  *         • 

.  224 

•  •         » 

.  234 

*  *         • 

.  236 

*  *         • 

.  238 

•  •         a 

.  244 

•  •           9 

.  250 

*  *        • 

.  254 

INTRODUCTION 


p-,-'. 


C< 


To  vittii  iiolland  is,  for  the  stranger  to  that 
country,  to  be  interested  and  amused  all  day 
and  every  day.  Everything  is  strange  and  br- 
ine's usual  experiences.  The  scenery  i  i 
most  part  is  nothing,  for  aim  i  d^  vufire 
n  ]  J  the  provinces  of  Drenthe  and 
n  .  is  formed  by  the  sand  and  mud 
L:ia  nov.  |:  'Juring  iinroiinti-fl  nuP:.  from  the 
n  ?it  «  I  Europe  by  the  IH me  and  otlipr 
r  V  rs  1?  J  it  is  therefore  level. 
lov<  !    Uiif  wp]!  below  the  level  of 

vers,  and  it  is  ; 

a  lijru:   series  of  -Lihr^- 
that  special  Gov 
staat."     There    ib    ... 
except  iii--t^  '     '    • 

?()<;<  I  S  t   * ;  I  ■        !■  , 


:%.  i  i 


^^     h  ■    r  . 


iiii,/.rf  =  lv 


del 
do 


1 1 


ea  and  tiie 

rom  inunaai  t!i  only  by 

^-   dykes  maintained  by 

rtment,  tlu      Water- 

.-Tuiie    m    tilt'    (;*)untr\" 

'■  the  few  ''  maca<i:i]-i  " 

-'    ^^x--ptiollallv    are    in 

'  iiost 

sea- 


i  i  ,  U  I         IJ 


t  h  . 


-  *  -  c.  1.^  i.  \ 


/  •— '  JL 


p!^i)tpetion. 


»     .   i 


d's  scenery  be  tame,  its  buildings, 


a  \a: 


9 


■'-'J 


Oman- 


i 

f 

-1 


10 


ON  THE  ROAD  IN  HOLLAND 


NOT  ALL  OLD-FASHIONED 


II 


ticalh  beautiful  ;  and  even  in  the  modern  small 
houses  and  workmen's  dwellings  there  is  ex- 
hibited a  good  deal  of  that  ingenuity  and  resource 
in  the  use  ui  buck  which  might  fairly  have 
been  expected  in  a  people  so  thoroughly  used  to 
that  material.  Brick,  indeed,  paves  mu6t  uf 
fl  Aland's  rnn ds— bricks  red,  yellow,  blue,  grey, 
called  bv  rL  ]  i  itch  '' klinkers,"  set  up  on  their 
sides.  Ill  veil  a  good  foundation,  there  is  no 
better  road  either  to  look  at  or  to  travel  on. 
Ft  is  dustless,  easily  cleaned,  and  as  easily  repairori, 
Tiiese  roads  are  often  bordered  by  canals  » 

Dutch  term  canals  "  grachten  "),  and  generally 
run  between  an  avenue  of  trees,  with  what  we 
ought  to  have  in  F  land—a  special  path  on  one 
side  or  the  other  iui  cyclists  {''  Rijwielpad  "). 
Long  ago,  in  that  centralising  process  which 
has  converted  the  Stat  riM.uu  uf  the  DutcnKe- 
publicintoT  Kingdom  oi  H  ^^md,  the  throbbing 
'^'  ^  '  -'  J  'utch  towns  was  drained  away  to 
conLiiOULt  towards  the  making  of  modern  Amster- 
dam an1  R.^^erdam.  ^  ae  few  other  ancient 
towns  o  11^  aid  exhibit  an  increase  in  modern 
times,  but  they  are  special  instances— such  as 
Haarlem,  the  highly  prosperous  centre  of  the 
bulb  maa.iiy,  a  region  of  floriculturists,  and 
The  n  tgue,  the  social  and  Court  ceiuie  of  the 
country.  A^  f.eeuwarden,  too,  up  in  the  north, 
'^f  ^'^'"^'  -^  ^liat  centre  of  th  cattle  trade, 
■      -     1,  txp.n.  ,,n,  and  a  garden-suburb  in  the 


111     tiiC 


;i.    Ill 

1 0  o . 


o 


^  of  the  working-class  population  is  now 
making  as  a  municipal  enterprise.     And 
hly  interesting  and   educative   sight  it   is, 


f-  / ,  \  \  ■ 


X  K  it  will  not  do  to  think  of  Holland  as  a  land 
\v!irre  tjvuiyone  is  old-world  and  n.invt  p-^t^Ip 
wear  weird  costumes,  but,  on  the  or  hand, 
to  i  ny  the  existence  ol  them,  except  as  a  lure 
to  trun <Ts,  as  some  of  the  Dutch  do,  is  an  ab- 
:       nyv      s  you  may  go  and  see  for  yourself. 

Tilt  liirrave  Nu  Englishman's  idea  of  Holland 
^"^    I   c  Hiiitr  -he  people  in  general   wear 

uuilandi-ii  costumes  and  walk  in  wooden  -iu.>es — 
i^   ^  r^    altogether    correct.       Some     do,    in    the 
:*    parts  :  but  even  iix  iLe  smaller  provincial 
u<   thi     jiutth   girls — the   '' meisjes,"   that  is 
say,     the    "  missies  " — are    often    as    up-to- 
;f^    i    y    London  flapper,   anii    wtar  as   neat 
'      -     nid    stockings — and    just    as    abbreviated 
}  Miandkerchief  skirts;    and  they  (the  gnib, 

not  the  skirts),  are  not  infrequent  \      retty. 

'^  lir     ',  it  is  true,  what  we  th         —  le  more 

tvyiU'iiliv    I?:;^ch;    solid,    and    w\U\ 

T    V        hi    country   are    i      n 
ii'-'^iL   du'ur^c   ill    FTolland   thaii    in 
the    fOiiiifrv,    wooden    shoes,     *"  i 
coiunionh    worn,   but  they  must 
*iit   rniir   a   house,    almost   as   religiously   as   the 
i  nn  f  d   must  remove  their  footgear     i     V 
ii.^-han    countries   on    eiiterini^   a    nio>que.      '  '    .«= 


'  <  t  i 


;t  11  ud  AC 


lar 

in 


* » i 


H'        1  ' 


Oil     Uli 


ON  THE  ROAD  IN  HOLLAND 


a  usual  sight  outside  Dutch  cottages  is  the  family 
row  of  klompen  outside  the        iit  doors. 

A   ^Ucinge  feature  to  tourists  in   liiis  country 
is  the  little  light  that  almost  invariabi     fnay  be 
seen,  at  any  hour  of  the  day,  through  the  windows 
of  the  front  room  of  almost  any  kind  of  house, 
as  you  pass  by.     It  may  be  white,  red,  green,  or 
any  colour.     You   wonder   at   it,   and   speculate 
what  it  can  be.     You  know  tl     T'\'  :^i  ■  j  •  generally 
not   Roman   Catholics  ;   and   it   ib    liiciciore   not 
likely  they  have  little   lighted  religious  shrines 
in  their  houses.     When  you  become    acquainted 
with    Dutch   domestic   interiors   the    mystery    is 
revealed.     The   little   lights   are,    in   fact,    coffee 
and  tea  lights.     As  the  Uatch  drink  coffee,  and 
what  they  call  "  thee,"  all  day,  they  like  to  have 
the  water  aways  on,  or  near,  the  boil  ;    and  tho^c 
mystic    illuminations    are    produced    by    night- 
lights,    in    a    small    coloured-glass  table    fitment 
for  that  purpose. 

It  is  not  the  object  to  follow  in  these  pages  the 
political  history  of  the  country.  It  is  ruled  at 
this  day  by  the  House  of  Orange-Nassau,  descen- 
dants of  that  William  of  Orange,  "  William  the 
Silent,"  who  rescued  the  country  from  the  Spanish 
power  in  158  <  and  was  slain  in  1584,  at  Delft, 
\>j  ^he  hand  of  a  Spanish  assassin.  The  motto 
everywhere  seen  in  Holland  beneath  the  Koyal 
arms,  Je  maintiendrai,  is  a  portion  of  his  own 
declaration,    Je  maintiendrai  piHe  et  justice. 


THE  HOUSE  OP  NASSAU 


13 


L  ii  i.f  '.  t  ^ 


notablv 


1 1  i 


fiia  iTlailc 


t  'i 


r\  I  ? 


died 

if  1:0 

theor 


1 1  tl  ii  .5 


use  of  Nassau  has  by  no  means  ex- 
able  history,  but  it  has  survived, 
1.U  umes  menaced  with  extinction, 
I      hr   reign  of  William  th     Th^^^    who 
I^    a    leaving   a   daughter   of   a   second 
If  t    J'luicess,  Wilhelmina,  boiij  it;  i    ^  , 
nt   Jueen  of  Holland.      At   one   time   in 
after  the  death  of  his  son,  the  i'l  i  ce  of 
I '  h:  ally  called  by  the  Frencit        1    ris, 
too  well  known  as   "  Citron  "),  wlio 
\  11  courses,  there  was  no  heir.     Indeed, 
houses    were   maintained   on   the  same 
f  n  V  ate  families,  it  could   be   said   that 
Wilhelmina    the  House  of  Nassau 
^nc   iiiairied  in    1901,    a    German, 
1   r^  a    Duke    of  Mecklenbui:!  ^  h"     h:, 
-   le  heir  to    the    crown  is  the  i      icess 
1909. 


ON    THE   ROAD    IN 


1  1  VV  1— #  1— #X~jL 


...\  1 


Tferf   are   several   ways   of  entering  Holland  ; 

by   the   Hook     from   Harwich,    and   so   through 

bclxiedam  by  train  to  li  tterdam  ;    by  Flushing 

from  Folkestone  ;  or  by  Harlingen  in  the  north, 

sailing   from   Brewer's    Quay   by   the    Tower   of 

].   hlon      Each  way  has,   of  course,   ^t?    -t -^^nl 

recommendation,    according    to    the 

fancies  oi  iim  tourist  ,  but  the  best  r 

t  J  t'"    toast-and- water  land  of  dykes  and        nds 

uu    canals  is  by  Flushing — or,  as  the  Dutch 

sehn-   write   that   place-name,    "  Vlissmgi  (       ' 

It  is  the  best  way  in  the  sense  of  giving  you  an 

entrance   to    11  Hand   in   its   most   charanfpTistic 

part  ;    the    province    of    Zeeland,    which,    as    its 

name  would  imply,  has  ever  beli  ;  ^^^d    more  to 

tiie  sea  than  tn  the  land.     The  heraldic  arms  of 

tliH  pruvince  eloquently  allude  to  this  ai.        bious 

^-    ■  -t'T     di^jplaying    a    lion    swimming,     w    ' 

"  Luctor  et  Emergo  "  ;  that  is,   "I 

Lions,  heraldically,  bear 
15 


i6 


ON  THE  ROAD  IN  HOLLAND 


theriiseU'*''-   Jn    all   sorts 


wa^-q    n 


n   the   shields 
ims   of 


of    ariun    iri,    Holland;    irniii    rh,.    H,>y,A 

t^'^-iie  old  aniini-ij  i  I  v,:r  -  Mt  ancient  iJu^^,-*:  fami]]fr>  ; 
liu:  ,t  -  v\';i:iiiiifiLf  ]i'*n  io  d  iH'iiiie  rurHi>it\\  E\'i-r\'- 
wiu^r^-'  !-  rhe  ■■■  it'triiw  "-  Ur'  licdi,  that  DaM-h 
s^vid  C'jiiiing  rviaiaith-  tri-ai  tlH'  i.;iti!i  "  a.-^  . 
and  apparenti\'  th-  t'avn  of  la^=Mu\  ,.;r=i^=n.^  away 
north  in   F[-n;-ian..' .    i,:-    U.<-   iik<'  a--  '^a:i'i^ai. 

Vrnii,    thv'   ii.t'a'       -..-'-rs-   iHaU    *a    \aa\\-,   lions 


i^a  i 


it   ever 


tu    La'v't:    ijcalj.    a-./uiiU    iii,    li.^c    -.\  uliiLi-ai-U 


ahii    xii 


^"^'^''^^   nt  "a-^^  there  n-var  wa^^a  any.     Bii 


:  f 


a 


the 


ognisance  to  t\'pify 


hiaii  ^-naii'aa^a  xu^u  it  i-^?  nnt   .tiiv'i^.   fnf  no  panple 


a       a      >  inimical  circumstances 

'  aaa    I  Sir    I  hiO  \i.      ThH\'    have 


a  a^    +■  V  »:-  ;     I  ;  ■-•;  a    :■■  • 

iiion,^    iiiaria.iarir. 

haM    t^    a'-.ia    aiaaa^n:o:a   with   tha   ^a.a:..-ao -^    even 

i'^  iua.ih{o]ii  11  Lib- 1  a/  ii  V  r  in  :  ana  ill  1  a  -'■  -a,t  aries, 


\  X  ■ 


i  i' 


,a     tla,;\"    fuai    -n^^np^-f  n  a'/ 


at    i)\ii    the    ^on, 


n-a     t.^aiai     ta,aiaMn^ 


\  >  ■ 


i  t 


„    i    '      I    -    J 


tiaa,aau   a  if  if  re  >^^' a.)  n,    taa^.:   afni   aaaia.    v>   ktM,a.   tiicic 
wiia-li  tia-v  iiad  ^a^-at-a,     Thr   Dat'/h,  essentially 

^%   <  iL' a-iaariijU    jnM*ta-',    aa!    \n,a    -a\'    proudly.   <aiJ 

lio^    iiiipiou<Jv,    tii.i:     <Joa     aaai-    tfi'/    wnri-L    o;;^ 
thav     !iatdo      HoiiaiitJ,       h      is     Oi      aaa:V      i'--aoin.. 


trae. 


It    htts    takan    iliam    ab-.a' 


I    -'»   u 


!l 


a:^<i  a^i 


?a  0    \' ;  a    !  !  a  M  a  i  <  a  r(i 


yaars  to  da  i^,  h  ral   t  a^-  jnfi  ; 

In    ths-    liatain,.'    u?    rnana-    ..sad    i!,.''    I^aadi    ai'Miaaig, 

teiiaciuus,    not    aa-dn.'    'a/o-aa;d    and    arqui-itivt^ 


%' 


FLUSHING 


17 


;  J 


.Ak. 


character,  it  never  will  be  completed  while  there 

rani  inris    a    ahance    to    reclaim    drowned    lands, 

or  to  convert  shallon-  .  -       •  .     .-  ^nadt  1-. 

Xo.    Dot    .lons.    »  o         -^   >       .  ^    ..a  1    -* 

are    tdie    eiiito    •  .:  d-    a.ii.^re^    0!     H^-  iah^i.      ;  .,  ' 
cvn.aaii  aia:    ■    -  •  .      _  -      .  •     •.        .    a  ,    d  <  a*  aa.  a 
Vullaire.    -^ ..  •    .      :  a-    a-       .•!     -MOialaa.a 

sand  to  n  ,  ,  .  Leydei.  a  •  'a,. 
dednrdaMd  11  j.;-  a  countia-  ui  "  laiuaMX 
Canada.:'  ^'  ;  canals,  wdd-duek  for  aU'criiativadv 
lying  rumours),  and  blackguards.  Batiiig  the 
caiiai die,    and    allowing    for    the     a"''  .t'  .  ■  ,  •     •  f 

aidttcfaTiua,     which    is    as  ,       u:^     a     vawa 

(^o  i!ti'aata,ais,  indeed,  that  I   "  =  -a     .va^  nivitant  to 

6-' 

dave    adraa0.a — as    above — '    '  lOi      a.adaj\-     iii 

tiia  aat  of  ad,u...Oig  to  it),  Voltaire  aXaalia  tuUv,..a-d 

Git  tlie  superiicialities  of  the  Low  (djii  11  tries. 
Uald  then:  we  enter  Holland  from  J  ki^liino, 

<it    the    liOjUth    iA.    tae  Scheldt.       Wtiait   tdt^v  a  ad, 
Fdoiiish    /,  "   IS  first  se  .-    '  a    :        '.•  ■ 


a   iuw  (aja-t-oiata,   a   iree  or  so.   a 


« 1. 


on  ha    -'/.a    a 
n!    \\  .1  ;ch<a'"an  on 
l^^'-*       Ida-      W 
.  -.  a  •         \    .      ^ 


''he  chief,   li 

t  fatal,  ague-s . 

"  di  a  British  ariiio  laia  ;      , 
11    expedition,     aa    a     n  .a 

•  dad  maOi-   aonsf-'l'  tixaster 
its  object  '.  ■    ,  .a;--  ail-  of  the 


Freiiali    battaia:,;:.   uii  the   Seh' ;  . 

oaiitKiiiaded    aod    talseii,    aiid    ji"     ^  a  ..  a  a 

c  apt  me    Ant  war  a  ;    bat    Ui/Dca^L;    -u    laauaevi 


f  i 


i8 


ON  THE  ROAD  IN  HOLLAND 


strength  of  the  force  employed  that  the  enter- 
prise was  abandoned.  In  December  only  the 
wreck  of  an  army  returned,  after  some  six  months' 
inglorious  delays  and  futilities.  The  expedition, 
had  its  commander,  the  Earl  of  Chatham,  elder 
brother  of  the  riime  Minister,  not  been  a  pro- 
crastinati:_  General,  politically  appointed,  would 
easily  have  taken  Antwerp.  How  fresh  it  all 
seems,  and  new  ;  and  new  also  the  subsequent 
promotion  of  that  discredited  soldier.  Familiar, 
too,  the  controversy  that  followed,  as  to  who 
was  responsible  for  the  delays  and  the  consequent 
failure  ;  Chatham,  or  his  second-in-command  : — 


iC 


bieat  Chatham,  with  his  sabre  drawn 
Stood  waiting  for  Sir  Richard  Strachan 
S     ilichard,  wanting  to  be  at  'em. 


Stood  waiting  for  the  Earl  of  Chatham. 


j> 


That  was  the  way  the  wags  of  that  time  put 
it  ;  ending  by  the  deadly  gibe  of  referring  to 
that  dilatory  commander  as  '*  the  late  Earl  of 
Chatham." 

Thus  was  Walcheren  the  grave  of  many  a 
ijiitish  soldier. 

T'  it  does  not  seem  a  prepossessing  picture  of 
t  li  ont-door  into  a  country  we  are  to  visit  ; 
f  r  much  has  changed  in  the  century  or  so 
since,  and  it  is  difficult  to  realise  that  an  isle 
bu  smiling  as  Walcheren  now  is,  under  the  summer 


WALCHEREN 


19 


sun,  could  have  been  once  the  grave  of  so  many 
thousands,    through   climatic   conditions. 

I)   u   tiie   exact  geographical  circumstances   of 
Walcheren    will    explain    much    of    that   tragic 
affair.     It  is,  of  all  the  coastwise  lands,  and  of 
the  islands  off  the  coast,  the  one  which  lies  lowest, 
and  where  by  consequence  the  protecting  dykes 
are  higher  than  elsewhere.     Adjoining  are  North 
and  South  Beveland  and  upwards  towards  the 
mouths  of  the  Maas  and  the  Rhine  are  Schouwen, 
Zierikzee,  Duiveland  and  Tholen  ;    Over  Flakkee, 
and    a    number    of    semi-islanded    regions.     All 
these  are  essentially  the  ultimate  alluvial  deposits 
of  those  considerable  rivers,  flowing  down  from 
Germany.     They  were  once  mud-banks  ;  the  ob- 
stinate, indefatigable  Dutch  have  embanked  them 
and  made  them  what  they  are.     More  remotely, 
almost  all  the  rest  of  Holland  has  the  like  origin. 
It  is  the  washings  of  the  continent  of  Europe. 
Tn   fact.   Napoleon,   who   wanted   an  excuse   for 
annexing  it,  and  realised  these  facts,  used  them 
as   a  pretext.     He   argued,   ingeniously  enough, 
that  as  the  land  of  Holland  had  been  brought 
down  from  the  continent,  in  solution,  by  those 
rivers,  that  country  did  in  fact  belong  by  right 
to  those  parts  of  Europe  which  he  had  conquered  ; 
and    that    (pursuing   the   thing  to  a  logical  con- 
clusion)  as   he   was   master   of   those   provinces, 
so  Holland  ought  to  be  his.     And  as  there  was 
no   one   strong   enough    at   the   time   to   resist, 


20 


ON  THE  ROAD  IN  HOLLAND 


the  country  ut;came  Ui^^c^ed  in  1810  to  Prance 

^1  ;n:_   *L  '  next  four  years.  , 

ii.  11  ^le  is  ti.  V  ourt  and  Society  centre  of 
Holland.  All  nround  that  fine  crowded  town 
are  woodlands  ;  an  unusual  feature  in  this  country. 
A     i-  in  addition,  they  are  very  English-looking 


park-like  woods,  with  many 


(; 


^        tely 

countr\  residences.  With  the  Dutch,  "  The 
IT  2  "  is  generally  written  ''  ^  Hravenhage," 
which  means  literally,  ''the  i  ii  ^  hedge," 
or  enclosure.  The  French  style  it  ''  La  Haye," 
and  the  Dutch  themselves  have  the  alternative 
''Den  11  ag"  Our  own  village  of  liciyes,  in 
M  iiesex,  takes  its  name  from  the  same  root. 
li  i>,  or  was  in  Saxon  times  ''  Hesa,"  the  hedge, 
meaning  in  that  case  an  enclosed  and  cultivated 
part  of  the  surrounding  heath  or  wild  land. 

The  name  ''  6.  Gravenhage,"  is  an  instance  of 
what  seems  to  English  people  the  grotesque 
Dutch  way  of  placing  the  possessive  apostrophe 
at  the  beginning,  and  not  at  the  end  of  a  word, 
as  we  would  do  ;  or  in  this  case  in  the  middle. 
Thus,  wo  should  write  "  Graven'shage."  Tt  is 
in  D  :h  as  though,  for  example,  ''Queen's 
Eoad  "  Were  written  "  '&.  i^iieen  Road  "  ;  which, 
as  Euclid  vould  say,  is  absurd  ;  or  at  any  rate, 
looks  so. 

In  its  every  circumstance  The  Hague  looks 
the  courtly  cosmopolitan  place  it  is.  The  town 
i-   iuil  of  fine  hotels  and  government  buildings. 


THE  CURRENCY 


21 


I  li  tired  here,  more  especially  than  anywhere 
fit  ifolland,  that  hard  white  glaring  sunlight 
V  u  !i  i:i  more  or  less  general  in  the  couiiuy  ; 
hut  tliit  of  course  was  more  a  personal  observa- 
iH  ?    i:    :     I  particular  feature  of  the  place. 

Tomi-ts  in  Holland  will  not  find  it  a  cheap 
country.  The  chief  reason  appears  to  be  that 
tiic  uhii  of  expenditure  is  not,  as  it  is  with  us 
anything  like  the  shilling  ;  or  like  the  Belgian 
or  French  franc,  or  the  German  mark.  The  Dutch 
unit  is  a  coin  worth  one  shilling  and  eightpence, 
and  variously  called  a  "  florin,"  a  "  guelder," 
or  a  "  gulden."  The  consequence  is  that  the 
prices  of  most  articles  are  exactly  in  proportion. 
If  we  take  such  an  article  of  common  evened  ay 
consumption  as  a  cup  of  coffee — for  the  Dutch, 
at  home,  or  out-of-doors  drink  coffee  all  day  long 
— we  find  that  at  the  wayside  inns,  and  in  the 
cafes  in  the  towns  the  standard  price  of  a  cup 
of  coffee  (and  that  rather  a  small  cup) 
is  the  juivalent  of  fivepence,  as  against  three- 
pence Hi  l.iigiand.  Koi  shall  we  find  it  to  be 
exceptionally  good  coffee,  either.  T  same  rule 
as  1 1  i  prices  holds  good  for  hotel  tariffs  ;  and  indeed 
for  pverything. 

The  smaller  coins  are  puzzling,  and,  to  the 
-bugiic^iiiiiaii,  used  to  big  pennies  and  half-pennies, 
are  i' h  dously  and  inconveniently  small;  those 
of  tiiu  lesser  values  being  so  small  that  they 
are  nasily  lost.    Their  relative  values  easily  escape 


22 


ON  THE  ROAD  IN  HOLLAND 


PROSPERITY 


23 


a  stranger,  especially  if  he  happens  to  be  one  who 
has  travelled  in  Belgium  and  France  and  in 
America,  where  the  respective  values  of  a  Dutch 
cent,  an  American  cent,  and  French  and  Belgian 
centimes  are,  in  ordinary  daily  affairs  very 
confusing.  The  florin,  guelder,  or  gulden  is 
divided  into  one  hundred  cents.  Ten  cents  are 
therefore  equivalent  to  twopence — in  current 
iJ. tch  talk  a  ''  dubbeltje  " — and  not,  as  might 
rashly  be  supposed  to  ten  centimes,  which 
are  worth  rather  less  than  one  penny  ;  while 
of  course  ten  American  cents  are  fivepence. 
One's  expenditure  in  Holland  is  therefore  always 
a  surprise  of  the  wrong  sort. 

It  might  be  thought  from  the  foregoing  that 
Holland  is  a  wealthy  country.  That  is  not  so. 
Although  it  is  a  dear  country  for  living,  giving 
the  presumption  that  the  cost  of  everything  is 
based  on  the  ability  to  pay  high  charges,  it 
is  not  really  a  rich  country.  Yet  you  see  here 
no  such  signs  of  abject  poverty  as  will  be  abun- 
dantly evident  in  lands  notoriously  wealthy. 
There  is  not  among  the  Dutch  that  striking 
contrast  between  the  wealthy  and  the  humble 
folk  which  is  familiar  elsewhere.  If  the  peasants 
be,  indeed,  poor,  they  do  not  w^ear  the  aspect 
of  poverty.  Only  in  the  very  few  large  business 
towns  do  you  see  anything  like  a  slum. 

The  oflBcial  classes  live  on  salaries  that  in 
England   would   seem   impossibly   low.      Work- 


I 


houses  are  conspicuously  absent.  It  has  every 
look  of  n  contented  country.  Discontent  you 
will  find  m  the  great  towns  ;  Amsterdam  and 
l:>iicidim,  and  where  industrialism  flourishes; 
1  ut  it  is  not  conspicuous  elsewhere. 

liuminent  features  in  all  the  towns  are  the 
''  niidnmannen  "  and  ''  Oudevronwen  huizen/' 
They  are  old  men's  and  old  women's  almshouses, 
the  most  part  they  are  themselves  old 


n  i\i 


ti 


I .  i  I" 


and  beautiful  and  dignified.  In  the  same  category 
are  the  many  ''  Weeshuizen,"  or  orphanages, 
-  Miprally  to  be  distinguished  by  the  quaint 
old-world  figures  of  a  boy  and  girl  on  the  frontage. 
1  Hi  ill  Holland  will  be  found  the  completest 
change  from  the  ordinary  round  of  foreign  travel. 
There  the  ancient  ways  and  things  remain  Its- 
;  i  r  1  than  elsewhere.  It  is  the  last  refuge 
Lx  the  picturesque  in  the  affairs  of  every  day. 


II 


Flushing  need  not  long  detain  us,  for  its  position 
as  a  port,  with  docks  and  quays,  and  the  comings 
ah  i  •  ni^?5  of  shipping  render  it  more  cosmopoli- 
tan t  ii  very  characteristically  Dutch.  But  in 
four  iiiiic^,  when  you  have  come  to  Middelburg, 
you  will  have  entered  upon  something  as  com- 
pletely Dutch  as  anything  in  Holland.    It  is  a 


24 


ON  THE  ROAD  IN  HOLLAND 


THE  MODERN  HOLLANDER 


25 


town  completely  surrounded  by  water  and  by 
the  remains  of  the  ancient  "  bulwarken,"  or 
,   that  once   defended   it.     IV    ]         1    ? 


r>-    T-,  :;   -*'• 


THE   ZEELAND   HEAD-DRESS. 


circuit  of  water  and  defensible  walls  the  older 
part  of  the  town  is  contained  within  a  com- 
t-  -  '    circular  street  which  under  different  names, 


,1 


I 


1 


encloses  most  of  the  places  best  worth  seeing. 

Hptp     f  r  the  first  time  you  see  the  Dutri  !    ^t 
who  owe  little  to  any  contact  with  other  com    r   ^  ; 

tiiut,c   utiL   icaii  men  in  dark  clothes  witL     rear 

pili't-r    buckles   i\f   'l-'r    v.  aists,   and  bolibed    hair 
"peaked  ^^a-s:  their  faai;^  lirvaTiahW  alani;- 


U  licit 


t1 ,  f. 


i( 


shaven  and  generally  with  strong  aquiime  featuies. 
They  look  almost  Roman.     There  is  nothing  of 

tiitj  riaii/  ifals  jolly  drinking  fellows,  with 
round  tigures  and  round  faces,  about  tiinaa 
As  a  type,  that  sort,  and  the  similar  Temerb 
kind,  is  extinct.  They  are  grave  aiui  ai  n~ 
and  undemonstrative;  and  they  look  i  i  a  tav 
!♦  iadile.  They  are  almost  the  only 
ala a!  U  urg  that  are  not  round. 
goed  Z  uwsch,"  goes  the  old  local  s 
rranna  j,  good  Zeelandish  "  ;  so,  I 
da  a  a  we  might  suppose  those  sine\ 
weibhir<b?d  men  not  to  be  proper!} 
tive,  were  n  that  we  may  shre 

that  si\ina  to  have  a  special  applii 

f^Miiiia!--^    a-:=a.'  i,tion. 

Aa  a!i\  rate,  they  are,  without  a  doubt  of  it, 
round,  >}  lendidly-eupeptic  ;  looking  the  picture 
of    health.     Walcheren    has    evidently    changed 


m 


'  and  a 

rta'are>f^Ti'* 


ic 


i-n'  rlie  better,  since  a  Br  lish  army  wa?^  reducer! 
by  Its  climate  fifty  per  cent,  little  more  than 
a  cent  in  V  ago.  Here,  for  the  first  time  you 
notice,  what  you  will  observe  all  over  Holland, 
the    constant    type     of    strong  framed     woman. 


26 


ON  THE  ROAD  IN  HOLLAND 


MIDDELBURG 


27 


placid-looking    and    healthy,    with    a    singularly 
Madonna-like  countenance. 

Of  course,  the    younger  women  do  not  exhibit 
that  '      indity  to  so  almost  an  invariable  degree 
as  their  elders  ;  some  of  the  girls,  in  their  curious 
costumes    and    extraordinary    head-dresses,    look 
extremely  charming.     There  is  a  variety  of  head- 
dress for  almost  every  district,  even  in  Walcheren  ; 
but  the  rest  of  the  dress  varies  but  little.     It  xs 
remarkable  for  the   apron   over  the   dark   skirt, 
for   the   exceedingly   tight   black    \    '     t    bodice, 
with    short    sleeves     just    as    tight,    endin<7    uvH 
above   the   elbows,    in   all   seasons   of   the   year. 
The  arms  accordingly  become  very  red  ;  but  liie 
more  nearly  they  resemble  raw  beef,   the  more 
they     are     admired.      There    are    few    who    do 
not    wear    tightly   round    the    neck    a    necklace 
of  coral  beads,  in  sometimes  as  many  as  eight 
rows. 

But  it  is  the  head-dress  which  is,  after  all, 
the  chief  feature.  It  is  generally  a  lace  cap 
over  a  gold  band  worn  just  above  the  forehead. 
^-  either  side  of  the  band  a  gold  wire,  twisted 
the  tendrils  of  the  vine,  or  perhaps  like  a 
corkscrew,  comes  down  on  the  cheek  ;  or  alterna- 
tively a  gold  plate,  like  a  little  mirror,  takes  its 
place.  So,  many  of  the  girls  and  women  go 
about  their  daily  vocations  in  Middelburg  with 
what  are  in  effect  blinkers  on  their  cheeks. 
U  tmy  aspi-    ^0  be  exceptionally  smart,  they  will 


add  all  sorts  of  jewellery  on  to  this  astonishing 

The  market-place  of  Middelburg  is  just  outside 
the  circulcii  luad  enclosing  the  centre  of  the  town. 


'•n  *^^  t|  if  if 

^' 'h'  £ i  tr  ^' 

^    ^    ^     -^    <«*»    'A 


/-:  A  f-^": 


%  fk  W  'V  it  it:?}  K  ^*  !•  \ 


'  '''^?«*5 


\^ 


THE    TOWN  HALL,  MIDDELBUEO. 


Here  is  the  great  and  lovely  Town  Fall,  built  in 
the  early  years  of  the  sixteenth  n       with 

Tieli   and  lofty  tower  and  elaborate  of 


28 


ON  THE  ROAD  IN  HOLLAND 


late  n     :  ;    windows  ;  fretted  tabernacles  Let  -^cii 

them   filled   with  statues  of  the   ancient   rmmts 

ill   i  <       ntesses  of  Zeeland  and  Holland.     Ar   .ve 

n  v!..   ri-_     liie  stu-|.  jjUched  roof,  with  iib  three 
ti^T-c;  of  dormer  windows. 

A        :     0  the  array  of  twenty-five  historical 
|n  rsonages  in  the  canopied  tabernacles,  you  will 
find  now  the  present  Queen  of  Holland,   with  the 
Tiincess  Juliana  in   her  arms.     The  statue  was 
placed  there  in  1910.     The  princess,  future  Queen 
1^  jiiant  of  Holland,  is  named  after  her  famous 
ancestress,  the  Countess  Juliana,  mother  of  Wil- 
liam th     ^  '      \    maker  of  the  independence   of 
ii...ai.a    ill    lLu    5i:vicenth    century.     She,    too, 
looks   1  \^  n  from  her  niche  among  the    lawgivers 
and    ^       :  ilers,   whose  rule  and  law-giving  was 
based    on    that    foundation    of    all    domination, 
the  sword.     Figuratively,   but  not  less  actually 
for   that,    it   remains   the   one  stand-by   at   this 
day,  in  the  last  resort,  although  it  is  artillery, 
and  not  the  sword-blade,  that  is  the  arbiter. 

iiiu  Countess  Jacqueline  was  not  less  fierce 
tl:  m  they.  -A  married  thrice,  warred  and  was 
e^vuniually  beaten,  and  died  not  much  older 
V^^:n^^  thirty.  Amid  all  those  ancient  wars  and 
^"^^^  '  ^  ana  u^Aeavals  of  the  times  in  which 
she  1 !  vp  1,  and  later,  there  yet  arose  these  supremely 
beauti:  rks    of   architecture,    which    none    of 

these  letter   i  .  >re  settled  and  civilised   ages  can 
do  more  ti,,,,    .Ai^.A-    :  i.  :  imitate. 


THE  ABBEY  SQUARE 


29 


like     that    name,    ''  Jacqueline,"    but    the 

isually  call  her  ''  Jacoba."     Although  her 

looks  from  its  tabernacle  across  the  square, 

i       was  at  Ter  Co^s  (pronounced     *  Tei 
J.     a  the  adjacent  island  1  i         wi  Beve- 


li=H)se     I. 
land. 

Zeeland  is  exceptionally  the  grain-growing 
f  1!    V  111  e  of  the  country,  as  the  tourist  along  the 

J,. 

i       N    will    perceive;    but    it    would    scarci     be 
suspcuLod  in  the  market-place  itself,  where  b   i: 
and  eggs  and  cheese,  and  pigs  seem  to  be  the  clxui 
products  offered. 

Iju  '  Abdij,  or  Abbey,  64  e  is  the  most 
ancient,  as  it  is  also  the  central  part  of  Middel- 
e  r  r  ,      Centuries   have   passed   since   the   Abbey 


«■.,-•'  \  1 


o* 


dings 


hoed    to    the    chantings    of    m 
[he  cloisters,  secluded 
thren  ui-^my  gates,  and  the  Council 
ottid    domestic  buildings  of  that    disestablished 
r     iMiis  house  ;  but  it  is  the  home  now  of  the 
iicial   Council   of   Zeeland  ;    and   the    noble 
i  Chamber  is  perhaps  the   finest   meeting- 
A  my  provincial  Parliament  m  Europe. 
3   Abbey   church   survives,    as   the   Nieuwe 
\(^n   cannot  help  noticing  that,  because 
I    I      of   it   is   prominent,    it   rises   not    far 
three    hundred    feet.     Apart    from    its 
>pire,   the  Ni-:uwe   Kerk   is   iii:tinr:i:  : 
X    the   sense    v.^    .h:ci\;^.i.    T!,„^::Jg:.    it    ;s 
of  considerable  ip:>-ov.T.A»^py.f  .   f.j|     |  ^^^  most  ut 


the 

bhori 
tower 


U  i 


ii 


f 

4 


%l 


30 


ON  THE  ROAD  IN  HOLLAND 


THE  DYKES 


31 


the  Pruiestant  Churches  in  Holland — the  ''  Her- 
formde  Kerk,"  the  ''  Reformed  Church  " — the 
interior  has  been  pretty  well  swept  of  ancient 
things,  and  whitewashed  to  a  dazzling  whiteness. 
In  fact,  it  is  the  great  belfry-tower  aforesaid 
that  occupies  most  attention.  The  Middelburgers 
[  rsonify  it,  and  call  it  "  Lange  Jan  "  ;  and  do 
the  same  by  the  Town  Hall  (or  Stadhuis)  tower 
which  is  familiarly  "  De  Gekke  Betje,"  or  "  Foolish 
li-tsy." 

Long  John  ar  "^  Foolish  Betsy  do  not  get  their 
names  from  any  pre-occupation  of  the  citizens 
in  their  architecture  but  from  local  amusement 
at  their  respective  clocks  and  bells.  John,  with 
his  carillon  of  forty-one  bells  playing  elf-like 
tinkling  tunes,  eight  times  in  every  hour,  is  ever 
in  advance  ;  and  Betsy  comes  always,  hesitatingly 
afterwards.  It  is  a  memorable  experience  to 
hear  the  Abbey  chimes  playing  the  old  ''  Sea- 
Beggars'  Song  :  In  Nam  van  Orange  maak 
opn  de  deur." 

If  we  wish  to  find  the  Dutch  sea-defences  at 
their  mightiest,  it  is  at  The  Helder,  away  north, 
or  here,  on  the  island  of  Walcheren,  that  the  sight 
of  heroic  works,  and  the  unceasing  labours  of 
the  Witerstaat,  is  to  be  had.  Better  here, 
however  ;  because  The  Helder,  a  district  and  town 
of  naval  and  military  interest  only,  is  not  by  any 
means  picturesque. 

li  is  about  ten  miles  from  Middelburg  to  West 


t  i 


it 


U:3. 


^T^l 


i   i  C 


vhrre  the  greatest  sea-dykes  in  Holland 
found.  Except  for  them,  Walcheren 
dro  rned.  We  have  to  understand 
IS  country  all  the  rivers,  in  the  course 
with  the  never-ceasing  embankments 
inland,  as  well  as  along  the  coast, 
h  the  continual  bringing  down  of  silt 
continent  in  their  currents,  run  at  a 
ji  >  actually  above  the  level  of  the  land, 
roover,  what  are  now  the  broad  estuaries  of 
e  11  I  13,  the  Scheldt,  and  the  Rhine,  are  the 
pi  111  i^  of  art,  and  are  not  natural.  They 
wero  originally  one  vast  sandy  and  muddy  delta  ; 
a*  :  n  these  now  prosperous  islands  were  non- 
CAiMiiit.  They  would  cease  to  exist,  were  it 
ft     i    i     the    Waterstaat,    the    most    important 

department  in  Holland.      At  West 


th 


U  U  %  f 


Kapeile,  a  great  earthen  bank,  faced  on  the  sea- 
u    M    side    with    stone,  and    further    reinforced 


\v 


h    wooden   piles,   with   brushwood   plaited   in 
I   r  them,   is  the  chief  feature.     There  are 

alwav-  iiiLii  at  work  on  it  ;  and  windmill-pumps 
are  for  ever  pumping  out  the  surface  water. 
Anyone  with  a  passion  for  economics  might  well 
seek  to  kno^^  hi  the  history  of  all  this  creative 
enterprise  and  never-ending  work  of  vigilance, 
if  a?  a  fact,  it  has  been  worth  while  ;  whether  the 
h  been  recouped  by  the  productiveness 
of  cuu  land  thus  created. 

There  is,  it  must  be  remembered,  always  the 


32 


r  I     .    r 


4    1    A,   1.    i   i    '.    J.    ^    -  ■.      ^ 


OiV  r/^£  /?0.4Z)  IN  HOLLAND 


-  '  hf^  rouh'-  ry  iia^  alrf^adv  -cverol 
;ated,    so    it    n.i-L. ?     im.'    again. 


t  ! 


'  u  ii,  u.  u 


i  ;>•  t  ^ ' 


nc 


111.)      -(! 


t  r 


^'-./ 


,   iiU   uaic   Call 


bi 


mounds. 


.  i 


wiiicl;  wer 


(  < 


f  ,  , 


•  w  rffsit'U 


;  '  t  ^  '  i  I  ^  ^  :  i  i 


\  !  •   r  ,  ,  .  i 


n.^.u.^d 


!  i  a  !  't:S 

•    and 


cattae   anu 


a ,. 


~:  I  > 


\\  at  a  r- 


-f  "     . ,     A     1    V 


had    been    ^•'^:  ;t  .a\;i-  i    a^ 
ir-in    ul    the    waters,      llirn-    .i^    -..r 
fua       la  they  have  contidence  i 

'i'ita    \vi, ..-.■■   -:.-ineer>  aic  indeed   iL 

i  technical  experience. 


iai 


ne 


i    1  i 


i\  +         rv   PC  »-v  . 


U 


ITT 


Tiiui-.i 


V  a^a'r 


Middelbnr^  in  the 


X  -.r-,r.na 


tl. 


I  >     a     la!"!''* 
M.a'.i'ia:  t.ai  r  = 


d;r'-atiain  f"^a;a  W'f-^f  T 
IS  a  decayed  seaa-rr  -i  aq* 
■■'  aiaa.t..a:.i  lai^.i!  -:  .Maaa^l-a 
a;:"--:  '■'!  n-  haanar  self. 
ra,  and  tuu  name  of  iL  i^ 
iia.tr    01   the   Ki^aiish   \vi.,a'a 


-«,    a.    »-  4.  ' .  4.  ■,..    j. 


T?i  o  Ti  a, ..  n  ^ 


\%'  H  fa  ■' 


i  !    V 


-  .a'  > 


\\ 


u  '  y 


.  r,terest. 


7? 


;»  a  I  la  a.,:t.,t 


a  n  1 1-, 


1  >  ' 

:r)a  -  ■  ;  a 


to   attract 


%iki  k  i.^  ■  i.  X  i  La  '...  I  I..'  i 


I 


VEERE 


33 


restrictions.  Scottish  business  men  were  estab- 
la  la  i  Hi  Uiddelburg  m  thu  sixteenth  century, 
Tia  ir  staple"  was  situated  in  that  town,  uid 
the}  wuia  xorbidden  to  trade  elsewhere.  If  thai 
vessels  were  found  in  other  ports,  liuiii  ships  and 
guui  iaght  be  confiscated  when  caught,  in 
spite  of  this  penalty,  they  did  trade  tu  u  a  r 
]aaaa^^  :  aiul    VeeiQ  encouraged   ta-:,;:,   '  •/   -O'  laa,,; 

fcub>la.ata.U    inducements.       Cn.-i    ...auoi.^    lUaau    a  .a- 

the  undertaking  that,  if  attacked  and  plundered 
la   pirates,  Veere  would,  at  her  own  costs  and 

the  goods. 
a  which 


VVi.'^  >  \  a 


I)   1    U    \      .i   '.I   t.     >    * 


(d.iarire^.  seize  the  pirates  .na 

The  <  li   IF  of  that  vast  and 

la  \n    va  -ee  in  neglect  was  placed  at  iaq  disposal 

of  rhoM    S  ottish  merchants  and  mfaht  be  used 

Uo  t,{iajr  burial-place;  and  inaj'  oouti   aaa.^  :;.-i 

own    rr-ai^-at   chaplain,    who   wn^I 

by  the  town  with  free  wine  ant 

Yc^rp.    fnn, ad    them    a    new   r-Iiura} 

and    a    rchyard,  and  an  inn   t    b    a 

Saots  ;  the  liquo.rs  sold,  a.t  i  ii 

M'  dues.     Anf!    so    Yeere    prospered,    until, 
in   I  wrb  when  aii  Netherland  dues  were  reduced 

could  no  ^"^^\i.^^  nffar  exaeptional 


I  i 


\va"h    manae 


UL 


<  i  i 


»> 


I    t 


!     !    \\  i 


a  n 

iada'-taaa?a -.     bb/    1.795  the  Scottish  co:anaann- 

laa'.^  bab  been  reduced  to  ah.riost  notba.a  .a.b 
t?.j'b.aa  tda:^  only  vestiges  of  its  fornun:'  -\i-^- w  . 
abd  ma,   now  called  the   ''  Campvear,M:.he 


aia^    ill* 


b'  by  the  harbour,  and  the 
he  staple  was  situated. 


4  n  IT.. 

-  s    ■-  fill 


:-e, 


5  5. 


J...    C  vs..  i-i.   t 


i-  i.   '    '  i.  .<.. 


34 


ON  THE  ROAD  IN  HOLLAND 


n;    •; 


the  end  of  the  sixteenth  century,  and  is,  excep- 
tijiially,  built  of  stone.  The  square  window- 
h^n  i-  ^^i^^^inunted  by  elaborate  floriated  canopies, 
IV:   r      !  :  :lish  observers  the  look  of  later  in- 


hi    "V 


„     '^^ 

.       '^:^ 


t 


-.J 


THE  "SCOTS   HOUSE,  VEEKE. 


sertions,  replacing  pointed  windows  ;  but  that  is 
not  the  case.  This  combination,  curious  to  us, 
was  a  Dutch  architectural  convention  frequently 
to  be  seen. 


TREASURES  OF  VEERE 


35 


I  do  not  share  to  the  full  the  admiration  generally 
expressed  for  the  tower  of  Veere's  stadhuis, 
built  about  1470.  It  is  too  thin  and  attenuated 
ill  !  iparison  with  its  height.  The  facade  is, 
hov,  er,  in  some  respects  the  superior  of  that 
ui  Middelburg's  greater  building.  From  their 
niches  still  look  down  the  statues  of  the  olden 
lords  and  ladies  of  Veere,  who,  themselves 
considerable  personages,  ruled  a  considerable 
place.  They  have,  now  that  they  look  upon  a 
ghuo  uy  village,  a  far  more  sentimental  interest 
than  they  could  ever  before  have  commanded. 
I  like,  by  the  way,  my  casual  choice  of  that  past 
imperativp  They  command  no  longer,  for  their 
kind  has  vanished.  I  do  not  know  much  about 
them  :  whether  they  were  beneficent  autocrats, 
or,  growing  used  to  autocracy,  became  in  time 
spoiled  and  tyrannical.  But  they  have  in  their 
neglect  that  appeal  residing  in  all  neglected  things. 
Only  a  few  objects  remain  in  Veere  to  tell  of 
the  or?  ;L  days,  but  among  them  is  a  very  magnifi- 
cent relic  indeed — the  golden  standing  cup — 
ii  }ua.  like  romantic  names,  you  will  call  it  a 
''  goblet  " — presented  in  the  sixteenth  century 
to  \' M  re  by  its  first  Marquis,  the  lavish  Maxi- 
1  iiirgundy.  It  is  elaborately  ornamented 
•hasings  and  enamellings,  and  is  a  very 
precioii<  nmiix  indeed  ;  bu  precious  that  from  time 
to  time  suggestions  have  been  made  that  it  should 
be  given    iip    bj    \^eere   and  placed  in  the  more 


11? 


\\ 


e 


36 


ON  THE  ROAD  IN  HOLLAND 


THE  GIRLS'  HEADDRESS 


37 


certain  custody  of  the  Rijks  Museum  at  Amster- 
dam. But  Veere  passionately  and  rightly,  as  I 
think,  will  not  have  that.  For  what  is  the 
essential  difference,  after  all,  between  having  an 
object  stolen  and  relinquishing  it  into  the  care  of 
such  a  mausoleum  of  artistic  objects  as  a  museum, 
local  or  elsewhere,  especially  elsewhere  ?  In- 
sidious suggestions  have  been  made  for  an  electro- 
type copy  to  be  taken,  and  for  Veere  to  have  that  ; 
the  original  to  be  taken  away.  "  It  will  be  just 
as  good  to  look  at,"  is  the  suggestion  ;  but  Veere 
will  not  have  that,  either.  I  respect  and  applaud 
this  sturdy  rightness  of  view  ;  a  rightness  so 
extremely  rare  in  these  times  that  places  have 
become  largely  despoiled  of  the  interesting  things 
proper  to  them,  for  the  benefit  of  private  collec- 
tors or  to  be  set  apart  and  labelled  as  specimens 
in  galleries.  Of  course,  there  is  a  third  resort. 
If  the  artistic  interest  of  Maximilian's  cup  is  so 
great  that  national  or  other  collections  cannot 
very  well  do  without  it,  an  electrotype  copy, 
being  ''just  as  good,"  will  do  equally  as  well  for 
those  who  desire  it. 

The  poor  old  church,  vastly  impending  over 
all  the  island,  has  long  been  in  a  very  bad  way. 
Napoleon  barracked  his  troops  in  it,  but  even 
before  then  it  was  dilapidated.  Flitter-mouses, 
UL  Lctti,  alia  owls  live  within  ;  the  tower  has  lost 
its  upper  stages  and  is  crested  with  a  curious- 
--       ^-^    ujuia  which  has  the  effect  of  enormously 


t- 


I 


emphasising  the  scale  of  the  great  building, 
but  some  small  works  of  reparation  are  in  progress. 
Very  small.     So  might  ants  seek  to  repair  an  ark. 


IV 


From  Walcheren  I  came  by  way  of  Arnemuiden 
across  into  the  island  of  South  Beveland.  I  met 
on  the  way  a  group  of  girls  with  enormous  white 
lace  winged  head-dresses.  They  gave  me  glances 
not  in  the  least  such  as  you  get  in  England, 
where,when  eye  meets  eye,  it  shifts  away  uneasily, 
as  though  caught  in  a  misdemeanour.  I  recog- 
nise, well  enough,  that  though  they  were  curious 
and  amusing  to  me,  I  was  not  less  strange  and 
amusing  and  curious  to  them.  So  it  was  a 
fair  exchange  of  entertainment.  Had  it  not 
been  for  those  glances,  I  might  have  thought 
from  their  head-gear  that  they  were  nuns  who 
had  thought  better  of  the  life  of  seclusion  and 
had  burst  their  bonds,  to  see  what  the  world 
was  like.  But  I  should  have  been  very  wrong — 
for  not  only  were  these  girls  farmers'  daughters 
of  Arnemuiden,  but  they  were  Protestant  girls. 
The  great  sweeping  wings  of  the  head-dress 
proclaimed  them  such  to  those  who  knew.  The 
"Roman  Catholics  wear  a  smaller  and  more  severe 
tj  ie.    At   Arnemuiden    I    bethought    me    of    a 


38 


ON  THE  ROAD  IN  HOLLAND 


TO  BREDA 


39 


cup  of  coffee,  after  the  manner  of  Holland  ;  and 
sat  down  to  contemplate  the  strange  things  of 
this  strange  land.  And  the  girl  who  brought 
it,  seeing  that  I  must  be  a  foreigner,  since  I  said 
only  ''  coffee,"  and  spread  on  the  table  Dutch 
coins  for  her  to  take  what  she  would,  tried 
English  on  me  ;  for  they  all  know  well  enough 
when  you  are  a  Briton.  But  I  think  if  she 
had  spoken  Dutch  I  should  have  understood  it 
better  ;  although  I  do  not  speak  the  language. 
For  that  is  the  quality  of  the  road-side  English 
you  get  here,  when  indeed  you  get  any  at  all. 

Failing  in  this  attempt,  she  moved  an  arm 
benignantly  over  the  landscape,  and  said  ''  Mooi." 
I  thought  she  was  referring  to  the  cows  there, 
and  imitating  their  ''  moo  "  voices.  So  I  nodded, 
and  drank  my  coffee  and  went  away.  I  have 
since  discovered  that  when  you  want  to  declare 
that  anything  in  Holland  is  beautiful,  you  must 
make  a  noise  like  a  cow  :  *'  mooi." 

And  so  to  Ter  Goes  ;  or  as  already  said  '*  Ter 
H  ose  "  ;  for  ''  G  "  usually  becomes  ''  H  "  at  the 
beginning  of  a  word.  We  have  in  England  the 
uncommon  personal  name  of  ''  Goose."  It  is 
of  Dutch  origin,  and  derives  from  this  place. 

From  Goes  I  took  the  train  to  Bergen-op-Zoom, 
thus  quitting  the  province  of  Zeeland,  and  coming 
to  the  mainland  and  into  Brabant.  I  will  confess 
that  I  hastened  to  this  town  by  the  lure  of  its 
name  !   ''  Bergen-op-Zoom  "  has  a  fine  resonant 


{'• 


thunderous  sound  at  the  end  of  it.      But  Bergen's 
name  is  more  interesting  than  the  place.     There 
is  a  queer  old  gate  remaining  of  the  demolished 
fortifications— the  "  Gevangen  Poort "  it  is  called, 
the  "  Prison  Gate  "  ;  but  for  the  rest,  although 
the  town  has  a  long  history  of  sieges  and  captures 
and  repulses,  ending  so  recently  as  1814,   it  is 
stale  and  flat.     So  I  left  it,  without  knowing  even 
to  this  day  what  the  "  Zoom  "  in  the  place-name 
means.     I    thought,    looking   upon   the    map,    I 
would  go  to  Breda  ;  for  there  was  once  a  "  Peace 
of  Breda,"   a  treaty  signed  there  ;  and  Charles 
the  Second  spent  some  time  at  Breda,  during  his 

exile. 

It  is   twenty   miles   from   Bergen-op-Zoom   to 

Breda,  through  Wouw,  with  the  humorous  name, 
Rosendaal,    with    the    pretty    one,    and    Etten. 
It  is  extremely  uninteresting  country,  and  Wouw, 
although  not  of  itself  particularly  enticing,  be- 
comes by  contrast  a  place  of  an  immense  interest. 
It  has  some  features  ;  the  road  has  none.     Rosen- 
daal is  the  frontier  customs-station  on  this  road. 
A  good  many  British  sailors  and  marines  know 
it    well    enough,    for    in   October,     1914,     they 
streamed  in  some  thousands    across  the  frontier, 
from  Antwerp,  some  twelve  miles  away,  on  the  fall 
of  that  city  ;  and  were  received  and  interned  by 
the    Dutch    authorities,    chiefly    at     Groningen, 
in  the  north  of  Friesland,  for  the  duration  of  the 
Great  War.    Escaped  prisoners  of  war  and  refugees 


40 


ON  THE  ROAD  IN  HOLLAND 


The    u 
made  m« 

to  ^"'  :l  Sr. 

If*".  ,  r 


•i^-'  AJ.  ^-^'' 


ch  to  the  kindliness  and  help 
^  lii  liiose  years. 

^resting   country   all    around    Breda 
nk  the  historical  bail  ui  liiaL  place 

f  t  ip  to  lure  the  unsuspecting  str;n  :  r 
le,  flat  and  unprofitable  land  w  -  ic 
uiish  of  bui-doni.  Tt  i^  n  -pnr--]y 
settled  region  of  rose-growers  and  general  nursery- 
gardeners.  \\  ;  .1  iLiey  call,  across  liiai  near  i  r 
^   "i^     HH  .    French-speaking    B«  '   '  by    t- 

name  of  '    1  epinieristes." 

liuiii    ii  u   uii  tiie  tall  tower  of  the  great  and 
!    ^-  ;  ch  stands  out  against  the  sky  on  these 

^-  -'  11  stands  by  the  market-place  near  liie 
r-n^r-  ^-f  thi<  town  o^  2^.nnn  in].,i]^:t  ::^'.  ;  and  is 
ai:.:.^.---  -le  only  buildn.^  -m  Interest  m  u.  UjJike 
most  of  the  churches  in  Holland,  the  tower  is  of 
'  ne,  an  I  N  more  restrained  in  design  thai,  .uiy 
utuui.  ihc  luvvur  is  not  unlike  tho  tower  of 
Vfrf'^-^i^  Cathedral  and  the  Church  o!  r-  Mi 
a*     '  -^      ft  is  late  Gothic,  in  luc  oiyie  we 

"^^  -^^  'i  i:  -;  ird  describe  as  Perpendicular,  v  "-i 
•  r  '■  -^  '  '  '  vertical  lines.  The  uAi-.ur 
01    tiii   r     u  Ui    lae  church  is  not  quite  so    r      1, 

rison  thin,  and  the  stone  thi 

and  hap-nrn  j  limestone.  The 
finest  r?rAf^o\  within  is  the  beautiful  and  original 
!L  nument  to  «  .;  Fngelbert  the  Second,  of 
^:assau.  who  rliod  in  i  Hi.  T  :aso  Vincidor, 
.       r     lian    from    Bologna,    designed    it,    uLuul 


n 


vi  ^    1  ^    1 1 


■-.iUU. 


-,*^.  _  - 


m^-'<    '■«# 


cTi  r-r-,|'crr- 


v^^ 


'  — «lriC.r,T 


A  MONUMENT  AT  BREDA 


43 


r 


It 


S  i 


\V 


LiiC 


seventeen  years  later.  Alabaster  recumbent 
effigi*  -  <  f  the  count  and  his  wife  Cimburgis 
i»:-r  r  1  sarcophagus,  and  the  count's  armour  and 
equipment  arr^  displayed  on  a  black  marble  slab, 
supported  at  a  height  of  over  four  feet  from  the 
floor  n  xiie  shoulders  of  four  kneeling  figures 
representmg  those  martial  characters  of  classic 
hist 'ty  :  Regulus,  Caesar,  Hannibal  and  Philip 
of  Alacelru.  The  work  is  not  only  in  itself 
beai  1  h  i,  iut  is  of  an  additional  interest  because 
it  liroctly  inspired  the  like  monument  to  bir 
Francis  Vere  in  Westminster  Abbey.  Vere  in 
tiic  liiiic  of  Queen  Elizabeth  was  in  command 
expedition  into  the  Netherlands,  and 
battle  of  Nieuport,  in  what  is  now 
Belgium.  He  died  in  1609  ;  and,  as  the  monu- 
iiix:id  to  Count  Engelbert  here  at  Breda  had 
nlrondv  been  in  existence  some  ninety  years,  it  was 
probably  seen  and  admired  either  by  Vere  or  his 
friend?,  and  thought  to  be  a  fitting  design  for  his 

vn    monument.     Nor   is   it   one   whit   inferior, 
whoever    may    have    been    the    sculptor.      The 
figures  in  this  case,  supporting  the  black  marble  * 
slab  are  four  knights. 

A  third  similar  monument  exists,  with  the  like 
inspiration  ;  although  again  differing  in  detail. 
This  is  that  to  Robert  Earl  of  Salisbury,  in  Hat- 
fi'^11  church.  He  died  in  1612,  after  building 
Hatfield  House  ;  three  years  only  after  Sir  Francis 
^    ii .    Ill  !  If  ere  can  be  no  doubt  this  monument 


■m!!&. 


44 


ON  THE  ROAD  IN  HOLLAND 


1- 


fl 


\p  >?•}     |>"!    p 


hand  as  that  at  Westminster. 
Ih  lias  case,  the  recumbent  robed  iBgure  of  the 
earl  i^  nn  tho  marble  slab,  which  is  supported 
by  i  „.  !  I  'senting  Fortitude,  Justice,  li  i- 
(it  n*  I  aid  T  '!.i  orance.  JJuneath,  in  the  iiue 
spinr  I  rh-  ii  uaissance  is  a  repulsive,  though 
muiv<u sly-executed  <  i  gy  of  a  skeleton. 

The  parallrls  and  divergencies  of  these  three 
remarkable  monuments  form  extremely  interest- 
inir  coinpan^oixo. 

T  re  IS  an  interesting  renaissance  font,  in 
I  Pii^i,  in  Lioda  church,  of  interest  even  more 
}'V  reason  nf  the  history  attached  to  it  than  to 
its  workmanship.  A\  lam  the  Third,  King  of 
Er^cland  and  Elector  of  Holland,  Prince  nt  i  uange, 
-  to  any  infant  baptised  at  it  the  right  of  a 
Liiucii  ui  London.  This  franchise  was  granted 
at  the  time  w^  en  an  English  garrison  occupied 
Breda  ;  but  whether  it  survives  or  not  I  have  no 
information. 


Breda  is  a  quiet  and  greatly  modernised  place, 
I  '  rh    r        I     I        whole  more  French  in  general 

H-  :  'I:  DuvA:,  T'  Peace  of  P-da,  signed 
Hi  it  Hi  7^  fiii^i  ,:  lu  a  conclusion  the  naval 
war  r  envec!]   Kn- Luv^  and  TT  Hand,  in  which  we 


BREDA 


45 


suffered  great  humiliations  at  the  hands  of  the 
enterprising  Dutch  admirals,  seems  to  have 
descended  upon  Breda  itself.  We  were  humiliated, 
as  II  u  ii  bv  incompetents,  but  also,  as  usual, 
we  emerged  '\ith  the  spoils.  The  technique 
by  which  these  wonderful  and  contradictory 
results  emerge  from  failure  would  be  well  worth 
study  by  a  philosophic  historian. 

S5ovon  years  before  this  peace,  Charles  the 
Second,  grown  tired  of  residing  in  Holland  as  a 
p!i  inner  on  the  bounty  of  all  who  would  lend 
or  give  him  money,  seeing  how  public  opinion 
in  England  was  grown  tired  of  the  Common- 
wpnUh.  i-sued  here  his  ''  Declaration"  of  how  good 
he  wo  id  le  if  he  were  suffered  to  return.  He 
\  a  i  Ii  t  !i  on  trust,  and  duly  returned  tu  England 
m  May,  1660. 

T1m>  earlier  story  of  Breda  is  one  that  finds 
par.il!^  l>  in  most  of  the  towns  in  Holland.  It 
ir^  the  story  of  Spanish  oppression  and  tin    !-  . 


■pas^HML 

•■    •   ':  i   f   ,    I-.     '    i 

years  i 
years  I 
March 

t^^jiiied    ■ 

frUiUiCid 


L 


4_-L  ji-X  ■%,>*. 


!  liberty.     Tn   1566  the 
began  the  revolt  against  ^ 
ci    the    Dutch    captured 

!    yet,   the  Spanish  had   it   again. 

J  iO,    Prince    Maurice    recaptured 
stratagem  suggesteti    to  hiiii  1  y 


.66 


} ) 


four 

S.      A  ^ 

the 


a 


W  li'.'    \v 


«   !  I 


in 


van  Bergen,  a  bargeman 

o  supply  the  Spanish  gurnboii  wtli 
i  in  his  barge.  The  idea  was  to 
under  a  cover  of  peat,  and  so  convey 


'PUt. 


liiiie 


.  t 


46 


ON  THE  ROAD  IN  HOLLAND 


them  secretly  into  the  fortress.  Meanwhile,  the 
I  r  "^  with  a  military  force,  was  to  wait  on 
ewh'^  iit-ide  the  castle.  The  barge  was  duly 
!  i  lull,  n  1  placed  in  charge  of  Captain  de 
lit;  .-re.  The  plan  nearly  failed,  because 
oi  tiiu  outer  cold  of  the  ji^iuii  night,  which 
brought  '  a  1'  ut  of  coughing  under  the  peats, 
r  ;:  tLu  bargemen  created  noises  which  concealed 
the  coughs  ;  and  the  garrison  were  duly  surprised 
and  slain,  the  fortress-gates  were  opened,  and  the 
ii  xious  Prince  and  his  men,  waiting  without, 
V  '  re  admitted. 

li  was  a  kind  of  warfare  carried  on  in  com- 
partments, so  to  speak.  The  good  townsfolk 
of  Breda  were  apparently  not  intimately  con- 
cerned ill  this  surprise.  As  we  read  it,  it  is  an 
affair  of  mere  handsful  of  men,  who  appear 
casually,  kill  a  few  soldiers  by  a  childish  stratagem, 
and  carry  on  until  an  enemy  force,  after  a  long 
ii  val,  comes  and  turns  them  out.  l.ptain 
de  Heraugiere  was  made  Governor  of  ^-^"-la, 
and  the  famous  barge  was  installed  in  the  castle, 
and  li^ciu  1 1  remained  for  thirty-five  years,  when 
Jireda  was  besieged  by  the  Spanish  under  Spinola. 
I  was  a  full-dress  affair,  and  the  town  was  con- 
rornf^d  i?;  u  vnry  bitterly  for  ten  months,  when  it 

-  !  ered.  -^  nola's  first  care  was  to  burn  that 
ironical  barge.  Twelve  years  later,  the  Dutch  again 
'  -  'i'^'''-^^  '  1  kept  it.  But  in  1793  and  finally  in 
ibiij  I   jiu  r,uic  other  excursions  and  alarums. 


i- 


THOSE  FRONTIER  ROADS 


47 


To-day,  Breda  has  a  small  garrison,  housed  in 


0 

II 

i:- 
t. 


IF 


th*  n.n  racks  built  by  William  the  Third  on  the  site 
of  Uj-  castle.  Part  of  the  moat  and  a  water-gate 
aie  M  •.  From  near  by,  on  the  quays,  the  uest  view 
ni-rh  +^-  ver,  with  the  Waag,  or  Weigh-house, 
iv-jound  is  to  be  had. 
ran  miles  bring  us  out  of  this  rather  modern- 
quietly-prosperous  Breda  to  the  crossing  of 
nj  k,  un  the  way  to  Rotterdam.  The  road  is 
infinitely  commonplace,  but  well-laid.  In  fact,  it  is 
vtr\  astonishingly  good  and  broad;  and  if  we  Hke 
to  o  :|  i  fi  south-west  of  Breda  for  a  little  while 
ii  lead  of  at  once  proceeding  north,  we  shall  find 
that  rt  f  !  continuing  to  be  super-excellent.  I 
invii  \ '  u  to  examine  it.  It  is  the  road  to  Aa  twerp, 
twuiit}  -eigLi  miles  distant,  and  it  comes  in  about 
ten  nf  those  miles  to  the  Belgian  frontier,  at  Wuest- 
wezel  If  you  like  to  continue  exploring  into  Bel- 
gi ua  It  ivill  be  found  that  on  the  Belgian  side, 
too,  It  is  just  as  good.  Being,  in  fact,  relaid  most 
Laiciully  since  the  war,  in  finely-worked  granite 
setts,  it  is  even  better  than  on  the  Dutch  side.  As, 
the  fur  you  go  in  Belgium,  the  worse  the  roads, 
and  as  the  same  remark  applies  to  a  great  part  of  the 
way  on  the  Dutch  side,  to  Rotterdam,  these  re- 
markable stretches  of  highway,  not  greatly  affected 
by  ta  a  •,  require  a  little  explanation.  That  may 
be  found,  readily  enough.  They  are,  if  not  exactly 
military  roads,  placed  in  that  condition  for  the 
purpose  of  the  Dutch  and  the  Belgians,  who  are 


48 
not 


ON  THE  ROAD  IN  HOLLAND 

ux^puc^c.    towards   one   another, 


I II 


K  i 


i    ! 


.-:,-V     ,--^    to   fly   at    ^'rifh    of  I.--:    O   '-:;/^ 

u^/^  nu..cc,  wiieu  the  nn-/  ■  m!::.'S. 

1*'.  the  cyclist  wli^  rides  mI^'H:,.:  >  £.«'in  t^Uz-^t 


\\ 


wpll-coii^siUcica 


C'v 


S 


I'  1 


r  ,?'=  i 


:i    ? 


-f 


red  lu  Muurdijk,  the  name  alike  *  f  a 

liJ:  broad  ari;:  '>f  "^h^  sea  wLi^  ii  h;:;-.  to 
;  :.Luam-i  I-  \\^^:-:..:-:-rr.  'Hie  chanrn-i 
.  ,]^rV  Pipp,  one  mile  m   J   a  half 

•  r:,  '■:.:.  :.r  seen  a  ..a  ;;  •   i  .m.w.;  ^ 


lue. 


f  '  :dge  of 


.■h"-  r 


■■  a'l) 


^  "ust  a  ferry-slip,  ^w-  rr  ^|  top  rot 
Kc  W  uiunuo  inn.     The  seven  miles  on  to 

,n.  -n-'"!^  bri"k-pavprl  mad,  lUhniiii:   oe- 
rees,  with  the  Dortsche   Ka 
a  navigable  iharrpl,  just  visiW*     a.  ilit;  left.     It  l. 
a   lonelv  roai.    with  only  the  little   "Half    VVeg" 

i%:-iauj\ua    raidway,    where    i    ^uugLi    a-^     quench 
v/i.    I  i  aj    long  glass  of  grenadine  nr^^  n     >iraw 


t  'a'tjCIi     ali     a\  I' t 


..  i  i  J-  i  I  ;  i  „1 


XXL 


ve  are  in  tia    j^  lovmce 


of 


.^j 


1 1 


J,     ,'      ■..,•      t    V      i    .'     A 


x.'  '■■■  ~  I  "r 


souatiar 


.e 


VI 

'  commonly  called  "  Dort."    It 

,1  !       i  1  a vigable  channels 


Oi  tne  Marweuta  aia. 


('Pi      ,  ■  1  .  i  a  ^     <  .  p.;     -i       i    i  .  •- 


Vii 


'    ^ 


DORDRECHT 


49 


while  docks  and  canals  everywhere  intersect  the  town, 

a  pon>aIar,ib]p  -nn.  n^  so  pjQO  inhabitants.     Durdrealit 


ii 


iP    a  h    aat-r  ,      ;  ;;     p     \\  pi 

lis  }a;a.ist'-p  are  nf  hr 

a   sort   of   northern    \"t/aaa: 

aiiaierit   houses   along    the 

Up  .00   >T* 


m  though  most 


a'ooil  dia 


t  i  \j 


■a 


,  V      s     V  i  1 


c)^ 


; « ' 


4   ^  ^ 


:ie  case 


1  f>        f  rp!?":  t- 


all  (aloO' 


1  .  * 


L     I 


I, 


irvurij 


inr 


\f     h 


trade  on  whu-h  n  a:    \v 
rtHjiM  m  thiPM"  •  iipp>  ,a 


ca' 


pp  :  p  . 


.  r 


va-pe!p  thafi,  tise  tovai  can  (dlar.     liinterdain  a 


iaar  ot   iM,aio 


ISiiU    iijTiL 


his 


•Jr 


I  ui  a..aa 
as  1018,  00  .- 


hUililu: 


I 


iordreciit 


tha 


laai  ituppened.   indeed,  -•     •  ; 
latter  quite  apart  from  the  re  ]h      \ 

:    .  .-■  00=     big  sin]):-.      Up  tu  tliOa  t  HI 

a   a.   \ao'a  valiad'ie  privilege  :   that   ( 


w 


uvini 


^'iVI 


I  L  i-4 


iiiaijfier  or    -  ..  a  ~  o.,,. .  :   r  - 
noigidiourHiO  r^a  -rs.     K*  ' : 

tl  _  ^.  >        i  04    \    i  .>i,iO    '.i.        a  v\    1  ^    \  ,  iici  t        ii  .a 


i.  -   ^     „^-» 


V,      .-a.  A    - 


Bo  Do. ' 

plaoe,   IS    .    ■ 

Wit  fi  thr  or— •      * 
the  hii^lo.  r-.- 

11  '•') ''O' *  'T:^     0 *"' '■  p     p  ■= 

cnlaund    sno: 
O'tiice 


J  J  J  ■• ' 


0.. cii  ii  I 


.'  tX  =4.  . 


\    '    \  -■; 

0    'a  ,: 

■'Ji  ■•■■        .--, 

busy 

enough 

^  P.  P  i 

.    0  0, 

-1  /  . 

a a cord 

vVtP 

i  la  J  i 

(.,,p 

,_0"t  ^    . 

and  ali 

' 

nio 

>  p  o\    i- 

*  'X05    (ji 

"   I 

;.0i0o" 

CI.    : 

' 

ora>p 

iro^ 

ed 

on 

the 

1 

:'     b  a  r 

a  as      on 

50 


ON  THE  ROAD  IN  HOLLAND 


M^--; 


do    but   accentuate   the   grey  hack- 


le i-  a  -  urj  ui  great  historic  interest,  in  national 
:  :  iigiou      ifairs,  and  it  takes  cognisance  of  other 


[  »ple's  business  as  well,  as  we  may  see  in  the 
Zu  :  A':  i!  M  cum.  Perhaps  Dort  had  better 
h:.,vc  -ci:  LLu-t;  ixiatteis  alone.  But  an  English- 
r m  may  find  ^^ome  amusement  in  the  collections 
'  r  .  H:  :rse  it  was  part  of  B  *  r  propaganda; 
kirH  rJ^  . ;;  .jy^pYpnTinyy^  of  tl  -■  Bnnr  fP'- 
t:^  M  seum  w  ;  opened  only  in  1902, 
p  K:  ^»r  uun upL  oligarchy  was  finally 
i  r  r  anyone  should  seek  to  |  i  j  - 
i„^er's  greasy  old  clothes  would  seem 
to  11  •  iite  that  he  requires  the  attention  of  a 
-:    ciaiist  ;  but  here  they  are,  with  busts  of  himself 


or  r.iLip-r^ 


a  j"Car 


a^ 


1  • 


1,    i 


f\ 


'iL 


f; 


1  resideni  ^.cyn  *  articles  made  by  Boer  prisoners 

H  u   1    numerous   offensive 

la:  perioa  directed  against  Great 
doubtless,  by  Dr.  Leyds  ai  -  "P  f  ^ 
*i  id,  V  rku  „:  ;  !  Hitch  sensibilities.  As  we  have 
^crFi  tL*  H  :  at;r  passionately  desires  freedom; 
ar  d  :  :  ,  f  .-  count  d  in  to  take  the  part  of 
*h  little  one,"  no  matter  how  perverse  that  one. 
11  13  too  cautious  to  take  that  part  actively,  but 
I  dosophicallv  only.  And  so  we  were  in  very  bad 
odour  m  ilunniri  during  that  South  African  trouble. 
dd"  da  responsible  papers  and  the  reptile  press 
vvt  r?j  insulting.  The  reptilia  made  much  money 
o'v.  •  f  it.  ^no.      We  can  perhaps  excuse  most  of  all 


LEANING  HOUSES 


51 


this,  because,  after  all,  the  Boers  are  Dutch — those 
among  them  who  are  not  by  descent  French 
Huguenots — and  thus  sympathy  was  natural.  How 
K  iii>  Tfie  relationship  was  recognised  you  may 
1 1  r  r  \  hy  this  among  those  propaganda  publica- 
ti(  la  ,  I  will  leave  you  to  puzzle  out  the  whole 
meaning  of  its  title  !  "  Op  :  Van  Transvaal,  Week- 
blad  verschignende  tijdens  den  onafhandelijk- 
snnrlog    der  oud-Hollandsche  Republieken  in  Zuid 

*i  '  * '  a .  "  i 

It  is  rather  much,  is  it  not  ? 

In  most  towns  of  Holland  the  tall  gabled  houses 
lean  very  much  out  of  the  perpendicular  ;  in  Dor- 
drecht perhaps  more  than  elsewhere.  That  is 
because,  like  the  similar  old  leaning  houses  of  Amster- 
daiii  they  are  built  on  timber  piles.  The  story 
thai  u  y  were  built  to  lean  forward,  so  that  foot- 
iHi^^^  ngeis  should  be  able  to  escape  the  water  spout- 
ing Irrm  their  roofs  in  rain-storms  will  not  bear 
t  X  loiination.  We  are  often  confronted  with  groups 
<  1  houses  that  lean  all  ways,  often  towards  one 
a  a  I  r  as  if  instinctively  for  mutual  support ; 
^v!ii(  ji  i<  ill  fact  the  result,  even  though  it  be  an 
accidental  one. 

l^oi  tiic  rest,  Dordrecht  does  not  change.  We 
may  vny  well  note  that,  not  only  in  the  few  modern 
buiL  ^  to  be  seen,  but  in  a  picture  of  the  town 
pair  tar]  by  Albert  Cuyp,  a  native,  born  1605,  died 
i*-il  rhe  work  is  now  in  the  Ryks  Museum  at 
Amsterdam.     It  represents  Dordrecht  as  seen  across 


Ulk 


52 


ON  THE  ROAD  IN  HOLLAND 


'V( 


ro 


f) 


51  • 


^J 


tite   Old   Maas,   from   Zwijndrecht.     It  is  to-day 

r.refi>-:v  a.:-  it  is  in  the  paintinir. 

;      town  past  the  great  church  that 

i     I  .    He  of  Cu)^'8  picture;  the  church 

L     .     \  ronw  "  ;  that  is  to  say,  the  '         i 

I    cannot   pretend   that   I   like   that   ^      i 

pile  nf  brick  and  stone   crannied  with  age 

cli£E   tunnelled   by   martins,    and   squalidly 

Of   that   I   can  admire  the  bulky  brick 

irs  its  2*^^"  feet  of  height  in  so  loutish 

.1^,  and  looks,  for  all  its  height, 

'^mbitious  bu'-d^^s  wpt^-  c  ?         1 

before  con  |  h  hi 

mhappy-looking  if    l.  t  clock 

}h  of  the  four  sides,  perched  on  the 

ir^'^^nst  the  sky-line,   as  though  the  buil  jcih 

'  :::indedly  left  it  there,  were  tidj^L.  i 

utly  lost.    But  there  it  has  be      u     e 

I'-d  vears  or  so,  precisely  the  same,  as  we 

i  evidence  of  Cuyp. 

-^^  church,  by  the  old  houses  of  the  Blaauw 

come  to  the  steam-ferry.     It  is  the  chief 

J  and  exit  from  the  town,  and  yet  it  all 

]   lid  rustic  as  the  leaving  or  entering 


:*?,   r 


iCJ 


i 


,    ijndrecht  is  an  out-at-elbows  village,  leading 
on  ■      :!        rlam  by  eleven  miles  of  as  altogether 

aborniiiat       md  accursed  road  as  will  be  found  in 

li  iJ cii  i      It  is,  it  is  true,  a  brick-paved 

the  mo^t  part,  but  it  has  foundered  into  holet  .      :.„ 


ii 


If 


ROTTERDAM 


53 


places  and  in  others  has  reared  into  humps ;  and 
sand  completes  for  the  cyclist  the  disabilities  of  holes 
in  I  ridges.  The  stranger  who  cycles  this  way  is 
unfortunate,  but  if  he  does  it  again,  he  is  a  fool ; 
ti.i:  more  especially  as  there  is  absolutely  no  interest 
on  tl  o  -y  ;  the  only  feature  being  the  endless  flat 
b      i  devoted  to  the  growing  of  strawberries, 

^Vibe  men  and  knowledgeable  persons  go  between 
Dort  and  Rotterdam  by  steamer  ;  and  that  being  so, 
there  is  no  local  incentive  to  make  this  execrable 
road  good.  Besides,  Rotterdam  despises  Dort,  aiiy- 
wav ;    and  Dort,   with   its  ancient  grudge,    ^  aiits 


not 


'  f  o  r . 

i  1    k   A-  .1 


1  •  f    r  f 


do  with  its  big  neighbour. 


It  is  a  sheer  mistake  for  the  tourist  into  Holland 
to  come  into  Rotterdam.     If  he  enters  the  country 
by  the  Harwich  and  Hook  of  Holland  service,  he 
must  of  course  be  taken  into  this  great  commercial 
town  and  port,  with  its  heavy  traffic  and  cosmo- 
politan trade  ;  its  great  business  houses,  railway- 
1  n  !  i  s,  crowded  streets,  and  all  those  other  things 
i      1  r  o  '  to  a  place  of  425,000  inhabitants,  almost 
to    oirgoc.i  ui  the  country.    He  can  see  that  sort  of 
ly  day  he  likes,  in  London  or  twenty  or 
her  great  cities  in  England.     In  touring, 
.  -  >t  the  kind  of  place  he  does  not  want  to  get 

00  '  with.     But,  entering  Holland  by  the  Hook, 

in   there    and   are   taken   past   unlovely 
liiedam  into  Rotterdam, 
I  ;o  ii  0  :  readily  forget  that  dismay  and  sinking 
of  the  heart  with  which,  after  emerging  from  the 


f 


54 


ON  THE  ROAD  IN  HOLLAND 


sands  and  rugged  hummocks  of  that  road  from  Dort 
I  came,  as  a  lone  cyclist  into  Delfshaven,  which 
is  a  suburb  of  Rotterdam,  on  the  hither  side  of  the 
Maas,  which  is  an  alias  for  the  iUiine.  Hopeful, 
would-be  expanding  suburbs  of  great  cities  are  just 
the  same,  all  the  world  over.  Broad  roads  with 
tramways,  carcases  of  houses  unfinished  as  yet 
because  the  builders  of  them  have  so  liberally 
anticipated  the  future,  and  the  future  being  coy  at 
these  advances,  has  refused  to  respond  to  expecta- 
tions. Playful  eddying  winds  have  a  game  at 
aerial  maelstroms  with  scraps  of  newspaper  (there 
always  are,  and  always  will  be  winds  and  loose 
scraps  of  printed  matter  in  such  places)  ;  and  de- 
humanised blocks  of  model  dwellings.  That  is 
Delfshaven.  Une  would  rather  the  heart  of  the 
crowded  city  itself  than  all  this. 

So  across  the  great  Maas  Bridge,  into  the  noisy 
crowding,  striving  town,  and  by  what-named  quays 
I  know  not ;  only  I  know  the  fearful  cobble-stones 
and  rugged  setts  of  them.  Anyone  who  wants 
Rotterdam  can  have  it,  for  me. 

Tom  Hood  wrote  well  of  Rotterdam,  nearly  a 
century  ago.  I  gather,  by  some  of  the  lines  in  his 
verses,  that  it  has  altered  rather  for  the  worse 
since  then.     But  the  line, 

''  A  sort  of  vulgar  Venice," 

is  one  absolutely  right : — 


'  I 


TOU JOURS  WILHELMINAI  55 

"  Before  me  lie  dark  waters 

In  broad  canals  and  deep, 
Whereon  the  silver  moonbeams 

Sleep,  restless  in  their  sleep  ; 
A  sort  of  vulgar  Venice 

Reminds  me  where  I  am ; 
Yes,  yes,  you  are  in  England, 

And  Fm  in  Rotterdam. 

"  Tall  houses  with  quaint  gables, 

Where  frequent  windows  shine, 
And  quays  that  lead  to  bridges, 

And  trees  in  formal  line. 
And  masts  of  spicy  vessels 

From  western   Surinam, 
All  tell  me  you're  in  England, 

But  I'm  in  Rotterdam." 

I  forget  how  many  "  Wilhelmina  "  quays  and 
buildings  and  other  objects  I  passed  on  my  way 
through  Rotterdam  ;  but  they  were  a  good  many. 
It  is  an  entirely  loyal  feeling  that  confers  the  nam  \  \ 
but,  like  our  own  ''  Victoria "  railway  stations, 
streets,  embankments,  public  halls,  and  so  iuith, 
it  is  a  loyalty  that  rather  over-reaches  itself  and 
becomes  a  stale  familiarity. 


56 


ON  THE  ROAD  IN  HOLLAND 


VII 


Delft  i    reached    i    nine   miles  from  Rotterdam, 


F  i  ;  F  ■  '  r 


i    ^  1   K  *     i   K  \.  i,  i 


?    i    »■*  .-     s     ^ 


'.  n 


;  I" 


!       '!  5        i 


IV";'!  r»^'» 


~-  •  ■  T'li  'i  T')      r)f'  1-  >  '  A  r  y,z 

.     i  .  i  i,  ,L  V  s.  1  i        1/  »^.  i    ;..i  t,t   >   '  .^  , 

liiiii  thouirht-  'jj  u!'!   fnui 
Bur   to   a    If' Mi 

ti)  tlie  I)u,ti-!i  liuti*.'!:   v. 

f  ^   i     t  ^  »        J-  ^  f  '    \  r^ 

to-da"V     ha:. 


Ill  i ,  u,  t. 


1 1  t  ■ ;  1 


?    ail 


I  i;  I       >'*   .  :  i  I'-/      t-'  i  1  I  ^i^'fi- 


w'    !  f'UU'-J H-i;{U'iirQ 


N  i 


i  i  1  1  i. '/  J  H  '  I 


/I 


S  •( 


i 'i^  ■(  -a  ['! 


(  ; 


T  )      ' 

i  !in 


S  ?''  \ '  t '  r ; 


I  i 


■    word,  *' Orange,"  which 


I       t'  ^ 


h: 


I  a   M fa f I  ■'^'   1  •-;   t  f : » ■  ■'"! 


'■'•  1 1  ii.ce. 


\vt 


A  IL-  :  ' 


J     sSiih.    IL^    11  jUi  '«  ^ 


1  iT  \'-  il',^ 


it  ill 


;  i  i*      I  \.,!  \%  ;i 


i  '  '  i  l  t  ■■-  i 


la  ri; A 

it  IS  a 


-fi'artrnenr  f,f  Winduse,  not  ^a,r  fjaani  Av 


i  1  =  J,      ^-  /  i  n  I 


ll^    Ofil 


■laaoii. 
name 


{ . 


i   I 


t     t  ! 


li  >n  a:  lioman  remains. 

i    li'^'oaFa   a:. a    aan^-J    .Ja''.n/^^7*n.      1 

-ePHiS    a    som-what    difficult    (h-^rri^t 
Unrii.ii]    raacc-iiciiiie  ,    ha"    It  IS   welLa^nnr- 

- ' '  -^»      '■ "   =*  -  ■ 

;    ?    '    ■  T      f    .    ,    .  f        -,!!?,  *" 


(C 


matter, 


r  ime 


tiie  gold"'Ti  ~5+? 


TH"?^ 


:i!i 


^  a  a.  i: 


nge. 


J5 


\  i  ,  -  ^. 


t'la^al' 

I  ■•    word 

i   ■--■'•■     '-  ■  -J 


PRINCES  OF  ORANGE 


57 


from  the  first  oranges  imported  into  Holland  having 


a  (1 1.1  J 


H 


f'VW 


a  <  -^  []  a 


fiC 

1 1^.^  ,1  1 


a. I 

'  i  '-.  4. 


'.IT. 


Mpssina,  in  the  South  of  Italy, 
title  of  Prince  of  Orange  came  into  the 
i-  a  curious  history,  only  rriefly  to 
Liiese  pages,  which  are  not  intended  to 
historical  wi  ]{  The  family  of  Nassau 
at  a  t  V  origin  iaiman,  and  they  became  owners  of  a 
l^'refK  li  district  only  by  cousinship  to  the  last  of  the 
1  raiich  priiu  aa  _:  Orange,  Eene,  who  was  slain  at 
the  -1-1*  r.f  Rf  Bizier,  in  IT^M  He  bequeathed 
hi>  lands  I  »  \\  aliam  of  Nassau,  who  was  a  German 
bv  bis  fall :erh>  ai  i  iiiother's  side.  This  William  of 
Nassau-Orange,  a  Hessian  through  la^  a  'a  r, 
-uic  tided  !u  his  father's  estates  in  the  Belgian 
Netherkmds,  and  married  the  Countess  Juliana 
id  SiiadH  rg,  who,  as  already  noted  in  these  pages, 
wa^  the  mother  of  *  William  the  Silent,"  maker  of 
Dutcli  independence,  whose  tomb  we  see  here  in 
Udfta 

lie  reigning  Royal  House  of  the  Netherlands 
clearly,  the  historical  sense  to  the  full,  and 
^  1 1  ;  for  the  present  Princess  Juliana  is  named 
fr  !n  the  mother  of  the  liberator;  and  the  title  of 
'•  r  rnii  e  ui  Orange''  has  always  been  maintained, 
although  when  WilUam,  Prince  of  Orange  and 
Sta  itb;  11  of  the  Netherlands,  and  King  of  England 
duMi  rhiidiess  in  1702  the  French  King,  Louis  the 
hdetirteenth,  extinguished  the  Principality  of  Orange 
an  1  escheated  the  estates.  Thus  the  self-styled 
i  rmces  of  Orange,"  generally  the  title  used  by 


iia.\a:^ 

ehruj 


58 


ON  THE  ROAD  IN  HOLLAND 


'V      Idest  f=-ns  of  the  Kings  of  H  4Iand,  have  since 
17  c'    bon.      only   a    shadowy,    though    historically 

^''•^r  U-.-1.  K::.i  '  K:.J.H.i,  WHiiam  the  TL.:  i, 
was  uv^'  i'-^^v:ii.^l-')n  o^  \V:!:;a:;i  Ui"  silent,  n.n^ 
was,  s..  to  ^!^^.iv,  nl^  ^  \V,  ,.  -,:.  r;,e  Third  in  HoILl  l 
The  great  Liouiator's  direct  Liuc  cuded  with  him. 


The  p' 
Alberr 

![■  my,  h^ 


'    Q     ^n  of  Holland  is  descended  from 
Ai..-      la  ighter   of   his   son,    Fred-nck 

iii-  i"\i:'h  wife. 


iiit  Mlent,"  Prince  of  Change,  was  born 
in  ]  3  dj  R  !:  Hi  '';itholic.  Vp  to  that  time,  and 
until  some  y  i-  i.  r,  the  Netherland  I  ad  never 
been  independent.  They  weic  iJachies  and  Princi- 
palities and  ^^  '  :^  ^  tracts  of  country  under  the 
r  :  i':ince-Bishops.  These  personages,  all-power- 
ful locally,  were  yet  themselves  subservient  to  great 
overlords,  such  as  Charlemagne  and  later  Emperors 
of  ucrmanv.  Whole  countries,  and  groups  of  coun- 
tries peopled  f  y  entirely  different  races,  passed  in 
those  times  by  the  marriages  of  Emperors  from 
family  to  familv.  without  the  consent  of  their  peoples. 

i  necessity  for  any  such  consent  was  not  then 
thought  of.  L.  this  manner  mc  Netherlands  came 
in  1  U":  t  »  ^laximilian,  En  |  ror  of  Germany.  Ui., 
grandson,  Charic-^  inu  Fifth,  Emperor  of  Germany 

-  i  Iving  i  "^;  i:  ^  ^'ight  of  his  mother,  Johanna  of 
Castile,  i;  i  it  :  lu  divour  of  L.-  ^on,  the  infamous 
Philip  the  Second,  in  mi.  aft^r  'laving  lost  his 
K^.^r-:.^i:L  dominions,    Philip  was  solely  a  Spanish- 


PHILIP  OF  SPAIN 


59 


speaking  monarch,  but  by  blood  rather  more  of  a 

Haiisbiiry     w  tk  that  Hapsburg  peculiarity  of  the 

pre  jt  ( tii];z  I  V  '  :  :  hich  we  see  m  so  many  por- 
trait- (f  iLat  laii.i.j ,  ai  a  iS  represented  in  the  present 
Kiiiy  A!fua-o  nf  Spain. 

lie   IS   thu    Philip  of  Spain  who  married  Mary, 

Queen  ul  laigland,  in  1554,  and  who  in  1555  designed 

to    cuaqiica' 
Armada.'' 


began  tiie 
Ketherland 
his  iatiaT  : 

resolved  t'.. 
religajus  ii. 
sought  to 

Ije^iyniny 
aiid    api)i.a 

I  Ik'    Ulhiiiiaw 
.a  .  .  7 


i  1  C 


r\  ■ ,  r 


:  I       n  ''^ 


England   with    his    futile    "  Invincible 
it  i^  not  historical! V  correct  that  Philip 
persecution   of   the   Protestants   m    rlie 
Thai  had  long  been  proceeding  under 
vho,  however,  had  not  found  it  successful. 
a  I     been  to  persecute  them  with  the 
r      wn    Catholic    countrymen.     Philip, 
I  I      a  aorough,  alike  in  political  and 

Kitters,  re-established  the  Inquisition  and 
Ful  t]a  X'  iherlands  by  Spanish  officials. 
aaa  !f  to  reside  pain,  he  left  Holland, 
intf'd  MaFiar-a,  !  a  chess  of  Parma,  an 
i  daughter  of  his  father's,  Regent.  On 
tare  the  States-General,  or  Provincial 
requested  him  to  withdraw  his  Spanish 


1  liii 


position  of  William  of  Orange,  then  but 
twenty  -IX  vears  of  age,  was  a  singular  one.  A 
ratlicaic  and  a  protege  of  Charles  the  Fifth,  Philip 
iuid  appointed  him  Stadtholder  of  the  provinces  of 
iiiesaxad,    I  tie  at.   Zeeland  and  Holland.     It  was 

:i    a    nicrease   of  the   bishoprics   soon 
ih  the  object  of  more  completely 


L  ii.a,.'ii 


+■  i 


6o 


ON  THE  ROAD  IN  HOLLAND 


hunting   down   heretics,    that   began   the   cleavage 


01  ^pam 


.  I      "^  r 


iC   :^aV,     liiC 


1    -1! 


?■ 


N  T 


(111  ;  i    i  *. 


between  William  oi  u range  and  t 

and  it  was  rather  the  question 

expenses  thus  thrust  upon 

any  other  consideration  that  cnn^f  i    t.      t  I  p  ancient 

charters  of  the  land  forbade  thesi     n     r  :  ry  measures  ; 

and  Wilham's  mind  at  that  nn  .    \v<i^  uccupiyJ  wiui 

this  legal  aspect.     But  the  Kmg  oi  >i    ;:     "  .  1     \  j  u 

Flushing  in  I  v.  *,  the  last  time  tiiui  cvui 

Prince  of  Orange,   refused  tr 

explanation   that   these   were    t: 

objections.    He  snatched  at  hi=^  i 

passionately,     "  No    los    Estados ;     rn: 

''  Not   the   State's  ;    you,  you  !  "     lie 

believe  that  the  Prince  was  intrigui  n:  '     -  rv*    ;  js 

own  personal  ambitions. 

Meanwhile,  the  cruelties  of  the  Inquisition  con- 
tinued ;  and  persecution  was  secretly  arranged  be- 
tween Philip  of  Spain  and  iiunj  \  m-  >tM  ij.i  Km:^ 
of  France,  to  culminate  in  a  grand  and  < 
massacre  of  Protestants  of  cvciv  rank,  im  n*  rtii 
of  persons,  in  France  and  the  ^-*:  rl'  i  .  ]  i. 
thorough-going  project,  which  was  at  ou  r  t,.  .j^tii 
heresy  and  political  opposition,  wn?;  incnn^ion,; 
divulged  by  the  French  King  to  tht  f  :  mce  (  n  uaia 
at  a  hunting  party.  Murder  on  Lac  -r  ' 
like  financial  roguery,  if  sufficiently  large,  in 
been    considered    less    criminal 


lit'!  I  -' 


i  > 


:iitd 


\  I '  k '  r  i ' 


larceny  and  individual  assassination  ;  and 
of  France  could  at  for  a  a.  a^  a 


iia 'v  u    oapljuSCu 


WILLIAM  THE  SILENT 


6i 


i.  ^■-' 

nauie  in 
icitait  iiics 
and  thrre 


,  J 1 J 


who   was  (I 
pletah'  iinii 


n 


riac'c 


I  a 


that  this  coup  would  have  horrified  so  almost  royal 

a  per-c  nac^e  as  the  Catholic  Prince  of  Orange  ;  who 
wa^,  howt  Vf  1    J  stounded  at  the  enormity  of  it. 
ikit  althouiih  horror-stricken,  he  said  no  word  and 
]v    emotion.     Thus   he   has   earned   the 
history    of    ''William    the    Silent."     It 
iia  above  all  the  Williams  in  history — 
uv  a  great  number  of  them  ;  but  at  the 
presents  a  mental  picture  of  a  man 
t  a  reserved  and  taciturn  nature  ;  com- 
ke  this  then  gay  and  lavish  and  amiable 
i  U-  -^turn  to  the  Netherlands  he  privately 
an  inbers  of  the  States-General  of  what 
M  aaers  dragged  on.     The  plotters 
.stenmg    to    their    great    achievement. 
'lA'  silent  one  had  established  a  secret 
.  fad  access  to  all  the  King  of  Spain's 
confidential  doings.     That  was  an 
age    of    eaves-u rappers    and    secret 
ntries  ;  the  ag -    d"    I     llenaissance. 
;   ,1    tiic  -eivice  of  Queun  Elizabeth, 
a     his  lift    ai  England,  in  directing 
,| aes  ana   a  employing  conspirators. 
in  loiMi  the  representations  of  the  States-General 
to  the  Duchess  of  Parma,  declaring  that  the  religious 
persecution:^  sjaaild  cease.  \v<arc  contemptuously  re- 
jec  ltd  bv  ht  r        i;>,e]s  ;  who  regarded  it  as  impossible 
she  should  he  aivai'i  of  those  '   waL.rdjeggars."     The 
Hisultini!-  nhn.^^    aa^^  ad-aci  li-  1  challenge,  and  the 


wariiefl 
was  n; 
were  * 
Meaaa 


seiaa;  t-  -^ 


most  f '  a  V  a 
extraordinarv 

^*  w^  v.-  Lx  s^  ^ ..'  <i        A-  M.  i        ■%  -K  J.    i 

The  ^rreat  Id; 
was  oecai|ara 
the  aetivitii'H 


-  W 


utef    ijv 


a  L'  V  a  1.x  j.  %..■    I,  ,i  ^  o 


cherished  title  of 


i' 


I 


-.K  *' 


I 


62 


ON  THE  ROAD  IN  HOLLAND 


":?  ^'    ^'■-•*=    -    •^•■'1     religious   1^: 


L  who  began 

'ill    f  n   (]('*•'     •    Vv^  I'^vR" 


?ivo  government.     Tli 
storm,   but  the    K,:."j 
^NcLjueiland^  tbo  Duko  i 
commit  atrocities  that  u 

1'  „;ine  appear  milcL 


:^pam   M^^-I 


\\"  h  I  • 


t  .^  •  ::  f 


was  to 


vm 

The  Prince  of  grange  fled  ir^       xH^. 
Be^^ai>,    being   of   a  iduu  accuc^i.  n.-a    t 
were,    although    few   in   numbc     !:    r 

than  ti.'  i '':.,.■■  :  ;  A;,,..  ,--.  ivu  tiiuUiaiid  aii 
]  ^--|.^r;ration  hri'i  made  t};^ni  fnrTT'idablo. 
cur-'i    :i   iitjt.:t   uf   more  thai.    tw.-f;t\-   ^ri. 


T- 


•■e 


Water 


1  ;o  r^ 


1  i.t/V 


XI 1 


tili-'J.   u-p^Jirdluii    0 


ff  the 


moil 


\f  ,  , ... 


\ "  f  .•  V  V  I  ■  !  H 


►  ;        I.  J  J   P 


lO'.uh 


.    L'   i 


often    styled     ■  F:nll."     Alth 

th  u    r    I     hundred  in  number,  Ut  \ 

furnnt'M  --Mr..,rA  in  ^^^  raine  of  tti»'  V 
who.   tl      r         ^    U:  an  Catholic  it 

T    IS   was  the  historic  position  of  William  the 
>        t     consolidated.     Xo    need    henccicr \wud      ft  r 

^il^Tirp  :  he  was  become  the  de^^  ^   ]  r;dr.-^     Mll^}^. 
ir_  followe';   hrielle.     Its  i-^  f  -,  ^i.. -uruu'--  ^^v  tie 

news.   rxr-*.'n»'.i   the  small  >i  ^snish  gr;T]i-«:i,  .   l..-u!    at 
t   mu!  =  ,.- -    there  appeared  ..  d^jai.i:^]    •'     *    ■-*^- 


r  >■ 


» f  i  c  i.i. 


2?£W^^i^DS  F02^  MURDER 


63 


reinforcements,  and,  had  it  not  been  for  one  of  those 
hun  ?  -  interludes  which  history,  like  an  accom- 
plishci  I  I  J  aight,  introduces  amid  tragedy,  the 
rebellion  might  well  have  ended  there.  While  the 
I  I  iS^t'icken  folk  of  Flushing  would  ha\i  In  en  lost, 
a  drunken  fellow  in  sheer  tipsy  bra\aili  fired  a 
cannon  ;  and  the  Spanish  ship-,  the  panic  now  theirs, 
departed  hu^ri^.^^Y. 

There  was  at  that  moment  in  the  town  an  Italian 
engineer  named  Pacciotti,  called  by  the  kT 
*'  Pacheco  ",    in  the  employ  of  the  Duke 
lie  had  just  completed  the  fortificatioi  s  «  f   \ 
for  the  King  of  Spain,  and   was  awaiting 
instructions.     His  doom  instantly  was  sealed, 
hanged 


■»  Ti      /-\ 


.Jr^ 


■11  va. 


n 

1 


'J 


him 


those 


1  * '  •  1 


forthwith,    in   spite   of   his   entreaties 
to    spare   his  life,   for  in  the  fierce  tem|H  ! 
times  n<iiiC  on  either  side  would  consider 
so  absurd — but  at  least  to   kill  hinu  ilk     .  _  e    " 
iuaii,  With  the  sword.     So  much  did  it  n  u  ui  lu 
p^nple  in  that   age.      So   hanged    lie  was,   vn    the 
ramparts, 

i  ur  years  the  King  of  Spain  pursued  William  of 
Orange  with  an  unrelenting  Ijatred.  A  standing 
uiii.i  ui  25,000  golden  crowns  and  a  title  of  nobility 
for  niy  assassin,  however  mean  of  estate,  who  should 
compass  his  death  tempted  many  enterprising  would- 
be  marl -rers.  There  were  two  actual  attempts. 
In  1582,  Juan  Jaureguy,  pretending  the  submission 
of  a  pcLiiiuii,  shot  the  Prince  at  lose  quarters 
through    the  neck  and  jaw,  aral  was  very  nearly 


\ 


64 


ON  THE  ROAD  IN  HOLLAND 


i      h 


d 


'  u  uJ 


successful.     The  successful  enterprise  was  tibat  of 

one  who  was  a  fanatic,  not  in  th*  ieubt  1  i^» 
rewards.  Baltliasar  Gerard,  calling  himseii  *  r 
occasion  "  Francis  Guion,"  had  from  iii^  } 
been  convinced  that  the  best  'vipp  lie  ^ 
render  to  religion  and  mankind  woui  1  ni 
murder  of  the  Prince  of  Grange.  He  was 
even  a  Spaniard,  but  a  Frenchmafi.  For  r 
years  he  had  meditated  this  project.  A 
and  mean-looking  man,  he  failed  to  impress  the 
Duke  of  Parma  and  the  Jesuits  with  his  abiiiiv 
for  the  deed.  They  pictured  a  min  L  r^r  n^  a  r  .i  ur^t 
and  swaggering  fellow.  But  by  dint  <  :  ;  j  htnjne 
he  at  length  was  permitted  to  do  what  1  » 
not,  however,  with  any  hope  of  results.  M 
a  little  devoid  of  imagination,  perhaps,  those  vn..  i 
in  the  art  of  assassination. 

The  fanatic  was  not,  however,  without  some 
business  instincts.  He  did  ^ -^  expect  to  escape 
uiid  the  deed  was  done.  The  rewards  offe 
of  no  use  to  him,  but  he  arranged  that  his  i  \ 
shoulu  r  ceive  them,  which  actually  the} 

ii  was  in  July,  1584,  that  Gerard,  with  lii 
text  given  out  to  all  concerned  of  ^H?ing  a 
uf  dispatches,  came  to  Delft,  and  shot  the 
of  Orange  on  the  staircase  of  the  I'lu-iMi 
s'  is  yet,  hard  \^y  the  n  :  le  Kerk.  ii 
iL*'  rnnnif5.  the  staircase  itself,  aiid  iLc  n;ar! 


uUl 


j  -  ( 


fill 


pre- 


in 


It 


t  •  I  \  tt 


i  i 


■  [  r 


bullets  which  passed 


I  > 

i    1 


r  ;  T  i  ( '  (''■ 


.a;.,  ill?. 


^^3r 


i 


I'P'^yS  WITH  ASSASSINS 


65 


?! 


;,:i: 


I  fsr 


In  accordance  with  the  spirit  of  the  age,  the  assassin 
j'  id  a  fearful  death,  ll-  lad  attempted  an 
a  but  was  seized,  and  first  repeatedly  tortured, 
d  it  last  sentenced  to  have  his  Jfiesh  torn  away 
I  pincers,  and  finally  his  heart  torn  out 
:^  m  his  face.  He  sustained  all  these 
sh  pams  with  a  smiling  fortitude  that  convmced 
beheld  them  that  he  must  be  supported 
]:  lii  by  the  Devil ;  and  finally,  as  we  are 
r ;  a  r  la  redibly  told,  a  contemptuous  smile  moved 
iiio  iipb  wliun  his  heart  having  duly  been  torn  out, 
it  was  dashed  in  his  face. 

In  the  Nieuwe  Kerk  is  the  Prince's  monument. 
There  he  lies,  in  white  marble  eJBSgy.  Tie  States- 
General  fittingly  enshrined  him,  with  his  dog  at  his 
feet,  a  marble  canopy  over  him,  and  emblematic 
figures  of  Justice,  Coui'age,  Eeligion  and  Liberty. 
A  latue  of  him  in  bronze,  habited  ai  ai mour.  stands 
at  the  head  of  the  recumbent  effigy  :  w  iala  at  the  feet 
is  a  bronze  statue  of  Fame,  with  wa   i   .  aj  winf^s. 

Because  ho  the  greatest  of  hn  da  rests  here, 
h:  lie  little  town  of  Delft,  here  too,  i  i  er  than  at 
The  Ifairne,  lie  all  his  successors  to  this  day. 

So  much  of  history  we  ma  permit  ourselves  in 
Delft,  where  William  the  Silent  twelve  vears  later 
was  assassinated,  aiai  where  we  may  stana  ^aftire  his 
magnificent  t  Oude  Kerk.      But         nay 

!'•*'  iidiuw'  a;  tiieae  pages  the  story  of  battlas  l)y  sea 
^-  d  i  a  L    a  \ictories  and  defeats  and  of  tiie  final 


Ui     IJ 


h  independence. 


#1 


-nf 


66  ON  THE  ROAD  IN  HOLLAND 

The  Glide  Kerk  is  the  resnnj  plaro  nf  arv^nicr  r^r-at 
mafi  :  (>hi:  wJk'i  tjave  ii;-  iMi^ii^li  i'''''\[^i'^-'  ^^  ^^''-i  'ii';-  ^^i 
trou!a,e  arai  -'lan;  hun;ili=i,t  imj-^  ^  Ik^t^mp.  tf.^a  A':ia:r;d 


Hi    th^^    1,.  ,ar    'A    \-U-  t-r\a 


a'r!  i-    a(  rir-ti  aatM 


to 


Lii.*-     NVi;M.ai.     [;•'     Wa-     klJ,^'-d 


•in*      \\ 


h      ItuV:,; 


it' 


"1 


'^^^^ 


Wa^         ll-cli        ill        i..:S 


3^^im' 


i  :  ::J-=  i    I 


tiiJilv   ■■•'    I  Wo       i:.a\"i 


al 


■'  t  w  ' ,  1 


s,  and  IS 

the   liciu   ui    \\iiuiii 

that,  ufier  the  Battle 

of  rhn  "Orres,  in 
i  -  ue  hoisted  a 
bruuiii  to  the  mast- 
la  ii  of  his  flagship, 

'        1     .ly   that    he 

[     I     ut  pt  the  seas, 

a  I  \         1  continue 

to   sw  fa     them,    of 

In-  *ss-  nents. 
Ill-    I't-*    btxlua    ii   purtr..vt-i    *as    h;-    m.ui.ut— a-' . 

s^iilf'd,    ships,    \va\"*"-    ar:'i    -a'S'i-    t^'    s.i '■ 'a^  - -■■  f::'  :,e  ; 
surruiiiaiad    ta-    iaii;tar\-    tr-aha-,      fj^a-'-,    n-a,    lies 


? .  ^  K  ?"■  la  N  -  E  N  :  ^  F 


ik^a  Hail:,  h"  w? 


a!iii*M^^  «s  ,faa,  -»■;• 


t  . 


a   loving 


iJutcii  kaurt>  h}- ra[s:a.is!.g  tiia  >p.:fia~a.  t  re  a  sure -ship 


uat 


1 ', 


n\a-iva  raii.a 


:  jiins  V     '  i     )f  Sliver. 


VERMEER  OF  DELFT 


^ 


iJdft,  aa^art  from  these  features,  does  not  dispiai- 
iiuiiai  to  interest,  in  a  courarv  wta-rr  '..ai'  ara 
many  uther  places  of  aboiindiia!T  as  ture-qaais.'S,^, 
li'  nia  !t  seems  indeed,  m  ^^  •  :  :  .>  -t-  a.d  a:rit>;t. 
Tka  Ijaai^aa  gather  tall  ana  a^.  .an-,,:  tfa*  .^tkf 
cuiati:^.  jjito  whoso  stagnant  ^aretaj  aauers  tlie  .jiat-' 
trees  drai)  undeserved  bouquet -^  af  biu^^sor:a  ;  ..a  : 
g^^*y  giaisti  seem  to  peer  over  tiia  slioiiider  evaii  m 

the  iaaM-r   streets.     Pcaiiaps — nay,  aartaiaJv iJaift 

^^'-^^^  lauaii  hj  Lii  ill  iuljb,  and  Diiicii  again  iii  it)3-L 
1  V  tla   explosion  of  a  powder-magazme. 

Ala  t  Dutch   towns   in  the   seventeenth   cei  tarv 
prauatau,  aaaiiers,  in  the  extraordinary  deveiopmeoi 
ad  .ill  m  this  country  at  that  time  ;  and  Delft  is  not 
witia  o    as  honoured  artist,     Vermeer,    ^o:<2  ifJTo 
He  is  exactly  contemporaneous  with  Pe        .    d 
aaa  in  general  his  subjects  and  methoa^  .,:.     :  ..   a 
ra     ^ame  :  Dutch  interiors  painted  in  -s       :.  :  .  . 
5  n  ua      a    r    colours.     But    he    aaata.. 
'^^'-^'-'     ii-  picture  of  Delfi  io  the  M  ^ 
Tli^  TTaane  U  very  modern  in  sei     ^     a   t 
meias  aiul  i-  an  effect  of  broodii^  :     .  o 
"^-^■^^^nuiiDj:^      Wo  can  all  discuss   -•  to-dav  :  the  more 
usjaiaaiaaaio-  when  we  can  nei       -  oaaw  nor  rao^t 
a.-a"  a'    s-  <aa-a\'a  liOira  eas\'  to  disease  *■  l  ^ 
bat  tat-  discussion  is  rathai- 
dheaa  ,ira  tja^  critics  who 


aa..,t''d 


a  .  4  .  •-  !;  a-  i>     -i  ; 


-   I  i   ,   <  J    -. 


•  i!   • 


sato'" 


l!.aa  t^ 


ui  aiti-'  aa\a 


diseoverea 


'  *'''-'^*^*'^'  ^   ^^^^t  painters  knew  aad  appreeiated  .him 
i  aa  baaa       hose  who  handle  the  pen  a^      a  . 

-w:t-,  .:\i  -iii.t 


druati  wata  .iwaie  of  his  existence. 


68 


ON  THE  ROAD  IN  HOLLAND 


of  the  buildings  in  that  view  are  gone,  and  there  is 
a  bridge  now  where  there  is  not  one  in  the  picture, 
it  is  still  recognisable  as  Delft,  with  its  yet-existing 
water-port,  towered  and  spired,  like  that  at  Sneek. 

To-day  Delft  has  a  porcelain  factory  ;  but  it  is  a 
revival.  The  old  Delft  porcelain  industry  expired 
in  the  eighteenth  century,  together  with  the  making, 
here    and    elsewhere,    of   the    famous    Dutch   tiles. 


IX 


Few  can  travel  in  Holland  without  noticing,  and 
acquiring  an  affection  for,  the  characteristic  blue 
and  white  wall-tiles  of  the  country. 

There  has  of  late  years  sprung  up  a  passion  for 
collecting  these  quaint  decorative  and  pictorial 
tiles  which,  any  time  these  last  300  years,  have  been, 
we  may  say,  almost  the  commonplace  of  Dutch 
domestic  interiors.  How  far  the  latest  developments 
of  this  phase  of  collecting  are  due  to  the  activities 
of  dealers  in  curios,  it  would  not  be  easy  to  say ; 
but  a  very  real  appreciation  of  the  Dutch  wall- 
tile  has  been  growing  for  several  years  ;  and  it  is 
now  not  easy  to  acquire  good  characteristic  speci- 
mens, at  a  reasonable  price,  even  in  Holland  itself, 
where,  naturally,  these  curious  productions  abound. 

h  was  in  the  early  years  of  the  seventeenth  cen- 
tury that  the  Dutch  wall-tile  came  into  conamon 


DUTCH  TILES 


I 


69 


use  in  Holland.  The  rise  of  this  peculiar  form  of 
interior  domestic  decoration  is  of  somewhat  obscure 
origin,  but  the  style  of  the  early  tiles,  decorative 
rather  than  pictorial,  and  polychromatic,  instead 
of  as  in  later  developments  (almost  wholly)  blue 
designs  painted  on  a  white  glaze,  suggests  that  this 
idea  of  furnishing  a  wall  was  derived  from  Spanish 


sources.  And,  if  we  like  to  take  the  derivation  a 
step  further  back,  it  will  be  found  that  the  Spanish 
fashion  was  an  inheritance  from  Moorish  art,  as 
exemplified  in  the  decoration  of  the  Alhambra. 

^^  ii  en  we  consider  the  sufferings  of  the  Dutch  at 
the  hands  of  the  Spaniards  in  the  thirty  years  or  so 
before   the   opening   of   the   seventeenth   century, 


70 


ON  THE  ROAD  IN  HOLLAND 


CRAFTSMEN 


71 


hi%\  >,:' 

[1 

■■"■''   '.-■«.   i   i  '. 

i 

But 

:^0 

1  ^ 

"v 

roil)  I 

^  J.   ^- 

'■1               T- 
^1               I 

f 

tlTSt 

5P 

nes 

1 

.ft"] 

>iri 

1 
■i       ,r 

r_ 

span 

i.-^! 

L-M. 

■,  ] 

craft 

-ir 

:ar;.- 

>. 

conv 

r'li 

Uijr 

*  4 

fare- 

5 

tiid 

t 

i  i'-  * 

>ta 

.  i 

(J  I     i  i 

\'l' 

iliC 

0 

lis'-.,  ii 

^' 

1    :. 

t.* .: j  i  I  ;  t.'  i 


A'.'. 


L   '  anything  of  Spanish  origin  should 

V  ouii  of  favour  in  the  Nethei  tiidb. 
:  the  idea  came  from  the  gorgeous 
m  the  Alhambra  at  Seville.  Tiiis 
lies,  of  rich  blues  and  yellows,  with 

•  sparingly  used,   is  clearly  of 

If      i!  cebtry ;    even    if    of    in  fori  or 

I  ii^     1  signs  on  them  are  generally 

i  rlowers  and  fruits.     They  are  the 

li  st  expensive  to  collect. 

i  size  of  the  Dutch  tile  is  a  square 

With  a  thickness  of  a  quarter  of  an 

I        types,  and  half  an  inch  for  the 

.  the  style  of  decoration,   this 

aess    determines    the    comparative 

V  n  rilo  in  Holland  displaced  the  once 
:       ration,  Spanish  leather,  so,  with 

uu'  eighteenth  century,  the  newer 
:  r  J  ousted  the  tile,  and  tu  :^ 
*  I  ,  v\  .xx.e,  not  yet  far  enough  remo^  •  i 
la^i  iiities,  they  l*  ime,  as  every 
i  :  'ling  becomes,  neglected  and 
JiiuD  at  all.  The  works  at  !)•  'ft 
and  elsewhere  weiee.  :::-l^t  have  made  ilr-m  in  va.->t 
quantities,  s^eaae  n-ie.  plentiful  they  are  yet,  eea,s(Ml 
to  br  :  aiii  i  a  fit  the  records  of  this  traci  u»  r* 
foraott^ai.  A  a\.^od  uuai  has  been  wrroai  riboat 
Datca  tiles  <d  bit^^  '^'''--^  ^-'''^  !t  has  been  distingio-di'.b 

Oy    too    lUllCIi    ScIOv.ftiC     lOiOi  vlr^ia^^ ..»     iul    tL.C    iO'vciiicu 


^    •     * 


fi   if 


W 


tra'''    p;i:^si!a 
^''eascii  t()  LH 

in      r  1  J Y 1  f :*      r .  I 

reeen 


■%*       ,  I  ^ 


01   rae  acv 


i.  -L  i  ,v  i.  a 


apprfasiiition 


tion.     it  16  ixic  easiest 
amateur  to  write  in  terms  of 

ui  the  aru:.try  of  ii.^  Dutch  tile,  :  .  '  .-  ■  ^  :^^'  ^'asy 
to  agree  ;  because  as  a  matter  of  1  at,  lae  aaiKirs 
and  decorators  were  not  artists,  but  merely  crafts- 


men and  joumejnnen,  and  thsir  wares  found  pro- 

dnctie'a  iii  bnlk.  commeriiaiao. 
Ti  e  ',  from  t 

I'\  i  .  ■%  ^    -f  *  tig,  '* 

-."•  '  1  .  .       . 's  ,       Li-- 


,  '■■m. 


Ill  t  a 


arc 


0       ^,-rrl 


fd-^''^  beiiO'ara 


pa 


..1^6 


brittle. 


I 


72 


ON  THE  ROAD  IN  HOLLAND 


SCRIPTURAL  SUBJECTS 


73 


.  +• , 


From  the  artist's  standpoint,  the  three  or  four- 
coloured  conventional  designs  of  fruit,  foliage  and 
ar  J '^nnps.  marldng  the  earlier  forms,  are  coarsely 
execute! i     wi  ij.    the  later  pictorial  blue  and  white 
tiles   are   charming   and   endearing  rather   because 
of  their  naivete  and  a  certain  infantile  queerness 
than    f  r    sheer    artistic    eminence.     Add   to    tliese 
thf   lure  of  a  certain  antiquity,  and  we  can 
I     1  I  that  it  is  really  a  certain  old-world 
t  f  ii:  -  T  .*  ir  attraction, 
i    I       'V  '    I  iaced  this  appreciation  on  its 
5.  It  n  A  be  admitted  that  the  charm  of  the 
Dutch  tile  is  very  great.     At  the  same  time 
I      r  s  be  allowed  that,  as  a  wall-decoration, 
their  attractions  to  collectors  of 
ns,   tiles   do   not   largely  appeal 
1    1  lea.     It  must  in  this  connection 
1   t'    '    *■      practice  in  TT  Hand  was, 
cover  the  complete  wall-surface  of  a 
room  'x'^h  thi^  Irind   n'    lecoration.     Sometimes  it 

Tii?s  to  complete  a  pattern;  in  other 


charii: 


<1  u: 


pictori 

qilitn    ( 

indi%    : 
to  the 

be  r  ? 

'' ,  ^  ■      -  ^"' 


to 


I part   I 


\'er 


iiioiances,  m  the  case  ui  piVtoriai  iiles,  you  would 
]  v  oithe^  complete  sequence  of  pictures,  or  else 
piL-t  Lire-tiles  Sui  in  amid  plain  white  ones,  all  accord- 


11^:" 


at 


Li.  U  i-  i  .1 C  1 


'    !       ;       T'    f '  0  Friesian  Museum 
there    are    specimen    rooms    from 
iiud  completely  in  blue  and  white 
esult  is,  in  its  way,  charming  ;  but  for 
rs  the  effect  is  somewhat  too  cold, 
r :  ession  akin  to  being  in  a  dairy. 


w 


Of  course,  we  readily  note  the  appeal  these  glazed 
tiles  must  have  had  to  the  typical  passionately 
cleanly  Dutch  housewife.  They  looked  so  neat,  tidy 
and  clean,  and  when  by  any  chance  they  became  not 
clean,  then  with  least  effort  they  could  be  made  so. 

Scriptural  subjects  were  among  the  most  favourite 
iL  rnes  for  the  old  Dutch  tile-painters.     They  are 


>  ft 


the  most  interesting  of  all  the  blue  and  white  tiles  ; 
and  entertaining  too  ;  because  to  them  the  crafts- 
men brought  all  their  quaint  matter-of-fact  outlook, 
combined  with  that  complete  disregard  of  the  his- 
torical veracities  which  was  shared  by  even  the 
greatest  ardsts  of  that  age.  Alike  the  little  tile- 
painters  and  the  big  brothers  of  the  brush  were 


1 


I 


74 


ON  THE  ROAD  IN  HOLLAND 


"^>  i. 


r  ; ^' 


qtdte   (  t  to  display  Biblical  scenes  in  much 

th^    -ri^ne    tcf  11=^    as   they    would    have    portrayed 
those  of  their  o       age. 

[  f,u  ^iiij/r  If!  subjects  which  were  favourite 
themes  amorii  .e  oL'  "Hatch  tile-painters  are  per- 
Lat-  ti-.  most  'resting  and  amusing  of  all ;  amus- 
incr  b-"  I  i-f^  ^  f  this  extraordinary  naivete  which  was 
jir  'e  artistic  equipment  of  those  times:  an 
ut!  r  ii-rvjiii  ui  the  archaeological  requirements 
)f     u-  Ki    li   painting  or  illustration.     In  common 

_i  the  great  masters,  the  prac- 
iin!-  art  of  tile-painting  represented 
liiLii  II  -  ;.  \  ry  much  in  the  same  terms  as  they 
wo  ii  i  have  di^nkyed  contemporary  life.  Here, 
for  example,  w^  i  the  prophet  Jonah,  seated  under 
r-  j^o;::  Uie,  w.uung  to  see  what  will  happen 
t  i  Xi'f  v:h,  and  hoping  for  the  worst.  We  know  it 
io  Ju!i  i:  J  1  i:.  uf  iLie  gourd-tree  ;  and  if  we  don't 
^.  -'i-r^  iL  it  -pecies  we  are  assured  of  the  identi- 
ri  J  ;  V  r  *  I  -  '  uainter  has,  very  wisely,  placed 
th    ifiscrii  lona,  4.  5  "  beneath.     It  was  well 

1      1:  1  -     I       ihe  city  in  the  background  is  Dutch, 
idti-r  trian  oriental,  in  character.     The  verse  reads  : 
^ i,  J   :  ih   V(  lU  M  v  of  the  city  and  sat  on  the  east 

ii  i  there  made  him  a  booth,  and 


Sr.l'"' 


Clii 


in 


l^i.. 


AlUi 


the  shadow,  till  he  might  see  what 
'    city."     The    gourd-tree    is 
tiie  ntxi  verse.     It  will  be  observed 
has  forgotten  the  booth. 

niaintly-pictured    tiles   have   a 


S  '    ^, 


SCRIPTURAL  SUBJECTS 


75 


\\   *    .- 


iiktiiM^  charm,  it  would  be  goin^  too  far  to  say 

that  tlie  iiieii  wijo  painted  them  wrn:  artists,     Thpv 
were    loiinu'viiii:'!! 

tilOUSand.        It     l:^    : 

tain    childlike    qualitv    of    dnxwinu    thai    w 

->-         I-  I— 

ii Uii.il it  . 


s-  !  r 


These  Biblical  subjects,  judging  by  tl: 


e 


f:  ^  i  *'a "" 


«rn-r  I  Lac  !:.»•'    at 


5 » »; 


:-   >     iU« 


s>'t  ! 


■<:  have  beeB, 
'    tlie 


"^•^  T  ,     ,  ,    I 


i 


,i  -^''f     !  >f       -^j  »      »    f  f";.  I    .  ' 


ave  oeen 


t-ir 


ai  i'l I  ''i  Li  i  y^ 


Other  pop  liar  subjects  were  shipping  scenes  and 

pastoral  motives,  botli  well  within  t lie  range  of  every 
Hollander's    evpcrieLces.    Side    by    side    vvitii    tlie 


I 


76 


ON  THE  ROAD  IN  HOLLAND 


THE  HAGUE 


n 


usual  blue  and  white  tile  was  a  type  with  a  band  or 

frani '  vork  of  an  ochreous  hue,  an  addition  to  the 
1)1  le.  Tiii-  was  generally  sprayed  or  splattered  on 
to  th^    :  i;     vvith  a  brush. 

A  =  long  period  of  indifference,  these  wall- 

ii\^:^  are  ii  ing  eagerly  sought  after  in  Holland 
itself,  not  only  by  individuals,  but  by  the  old  town- 
si  ■  -  ;  and  in  such  a  way  they  must  soon  become 
difficult  for  an  individual  to  acquire.  The  present 
w'  r  saw  recently  in  the  town  hall  of  Monnicken- 
u  1  alone  four  ti.jusand  specimens,  diligently 
^  ^  to^^ether,  bv  deojrees ;  and  private  collectors 
b  :;.  I;  reasiii_^h  numerous, 
ureal  ii  ah  -rs  of  these  tiles  have  been  destroyed 
^;  persed  in  the  pulling  down  of  old  houses, 
niv-  in  Holland,  but  also  in  London.  The  old 
[1  :  rf'^  house.  No.  21,  Austin  Friars, 
Citv  of  London,  built  about  1670,  and  de- 
^i^'l  i  fM^bruary,  1665,  will  be  remembered  by 
ri.  -r  h  was  built  by  one  of  the  Olmius  family. 
SevuTai  ui  .13  rooms  were  lined  with  such  tiles. 


r. 


liul 


T> 


Five  miles  bring  us  from  Delft  into  The  Hague  ; 
the  firbt  ])art  along  a  brick-paved  road  shaded  by  an 
avenue   and  running   beside   a   broad   canal.     The 

Ha-u:  i:  c.i  iH  !  u.iough  Ryswyk,  famous  in  his  a  n 


the  "  Peace  of  Ryswyk,"  between  England, 
fljiland,  Germany,  France,  and  Spain,  signed  in 
It  7.  A  palace  then  stood  here,  and  in  it  that 
settlement  of  warfare  was  effected.  But  the  palace 
was  long  since  demolished,  and  Ryswyk  is  now 
the  !  aNt  liiteresting  suburb  of  Tliu  liague,  at  the 
end  of  a  long,  long  tramway-infested  broad  street, 
with  industrial  developments  and  a  kind  of  suburban 
smugness  infinitely  uninspiring. 

It  is  an  uncomplimentary  introduction  to  a  great 
and  fine  town.  For  The  Hague  is  a  very  consider- 
able place,  with  some  260,000  inhabitants,  and  in 
parts  stately.  Something  very  cosmopolitan  and 
urbane,  polished  and  suave,  about  The  Hague ; 
and  very  rightly  so,  for  it  is  the  Court  and  Society 
centre  ;  the  seat  of  government ;  and  by  consequence 
with  palaces,  courts  of  justice,  barracks,  parks, 
picture-galleries  and  some  very  fine  hotels,  liai 
until  1806  The  Hague  had  no  status.  "^la  ^a  a  - 
General  of  the  Republic  met  there  ;  delegates  from 
provincial  councils  and  towns,  but  it  ^as  denied 
any  individual  representation  ;  not  altogether  unlike 
the  position  of  Washington  to-day,  in  the  T^rHed- 
States  of  America,  where  Congress  sits,  while  V\  asL- 
ington  itself  is  disfranchised. 

It  was  Louis  Napoleon,  King  of  Holland,  who 
gave  The  Hague  its  status.  It  had  until  then  been 
styled  ''  the  largest  village  in  Europe."  No  one 
would  now,  whatever  the  political  and  social  ^  n 

of  !  ai  I  fairue,  describe  its  appearance  either  as  that 


"Wi 


il 


78 


OK  THF  ROAD  IN  HOLLAND 


THE  MAVRITSHUIS 


?y 


of   a   Village,   or   ar^   ii'pieally   Dutch.     It  ha0»  for 

example,  IjO  caiuiU,  so  usual  ,h  feature  in  Dutch 
towns  tiiat  we  miiitit  (ic>crifte  tlii-iii,  m  the  esHcntial 
stiL£riiat;t  of  ihv  ll^jiianaer  ciniiuiunilw  ^i'liere  is 
in  the  t'ovfi  but  one  iheut  «;f  water,  tht:  \'vvefe  and 
toat  e>  the  ^ohi  renifiUiii  ui  the  uiif.:e  eneircliiii^  iiioat  : 
are!  it  i-^  ^opt  iiiied  aie'i  irerih  ^riiv  bo  vniiipih^j  water 
tieoii   Sehe  Vein  litre  re 

J  he  Ilu^ue  is  Liav  and  wothuut  care  ^:  the  I'mis. 
SO  to  speak,  of  ii'dhiioi,  N^'de  mdeedj  the  CHpital 
ef  the  eeaintry  ;  that  e^  Am^tenhiiio  and  thi^iki  is 
the  chief  lioyai  Fcdace,  But  yiui  irnaonie,  such 
is  Ihe  lia^ue,  iu  evrrv  WHihdieo^ed,  difctiiiguisiied^ 
louklL^  pel-  0:  Hi  U,>:  nA^liUiiiii^lwdAookmh:  hotels 
a  diOrjruai. 

^!u^  is  tiw  country  uut-eie  tiw  t<jwii -tu  the  uurtii 

of  it,  cit  leu>t— an\utuuu  lir.*.^  the  sceut/iv  uf  iluihiod 
it  1^  for  suiae  twi^  inib:^  "  the  Ih.-^ehh'  the  wood- 
iaud  ;  aiid  the  ii<ee;fi  i>  the  rie,..eo.  Ku^hehdike  sceiierv 
you  tiiia  m  this  couidry,,  I'ui^uo-h  wotli  a  diflereiice. 
Take  of  ten  parts,  he  u-  say.  triree  of  Wdndsor  Forest, 
three  of  eorne  tvpca!  ureet  Er^uli^it  countrv  park, 
two  (d  Ii\'iie  Park  and  Keri-in^ttui  hnirderis,  and 
rinddy  two  et  thf-  liius  iic-  Ijoi-ie-nce  and  veu  have 
i  iO' \\  ijuciuind  of  tre-  Bu-eie  H^-re  an'*  auejem  uaks 
auii  b^aadies  and  otiier  f'-rtut-Urees,,  in  their  UcUuirai 
growth  and  setting,  untouehcei  !*y  the  iJutehiuan^s 
ordering  and  pruiiiiig  liarai,,  ud^e  h  adiiost  ever\-wdiere 
else  has  ordained  tiiut  trisj^  eheil  bt;  eruwui  ju  forcial 
avenues  and  m  a  bLa|)e  that  egUimenui)  iitell  to  him. 


^U     qO:t„t 
eOOeO^iVe. 


J.      ^i_^j.. 


rather  than  to  the  natural  impulses  of  any  species 

ui  tree.  It  is  the  ''woodland  wild/  lue  surviving 
frnizm^^t  of  the  chase  in  which  of  old,  ever  so  long 
ago,  liose  Counts  of  Holland  hunted,  after  whom 
'S.  Gravenhage  was  named.  Do  you  romantically 
think,  wandering  in  that  boscage,  you  hear  their 
liu  ouiig-horns  faintly  blowing,  down  the  centuries  ? 
You  may  so  imagine  ;  but  it  is  to-day  only  the 
horns  of  the  motor-cars  along  the  Leyden  road. 

lie    Hague  is  a  town  of  streets  inciedib!\  <  r/ued-r^ 
The   Spuistraat  at  mid-day  is  no  place 
meditation.     The    shops    are    fine    and 
So  too,  are  those  hotels,  already  mentioned, 
cannot  have  a  Royal  Court  and  cheapness, 
side  b'V  *^]V]p 

The  IStates-General  of  the  Netherlands  meet  at 
The  ITiguu  in  the  venerable  buildings,  much  re- 
stored, of  the  Binnenhof ;  actually  in  the  Hall 
of  the  ivnights,  and  the  Chamber  of  the  Estates  of 
Holland,  and  the  former  Ball  Room  of  the  ancient 
Palace  of  the  Counts  of  Holland.  All  these  are  to 
be  seen  by  those  who  will.  Adjoining  is  the 
Mauritshuis,  built  originally  in  1634  as  a  residence 
for  Lount  John  Maurice  of  Nassau,  Governor  of 
the  Dutch  West  Indies  territories  in  Brazil,  and 
rebuilt  in  1718.  It  has  now  for  a  centurv  been 
the  Royal  picture  gallery,    open  daily  to  tie   r    blic. 

Near  by  is  the  Gevangenpoort,  opening  into  the 
iii  1  olof.  This  old  gatehouse  was,  as  it^  name 
implies,  a  prison.     There  the  Grand  Pensionary,  the 


8o 


ON  THE  ROAD  IN  HOLLAND 


1    1 


(I*  •  li  "liister  <  f  State,  John  Van  Barneveldt,  then 
-^  v-r,  \  ^^vo  voars  of  age,  was  imprisoned  bciuic 
I,-  w  i,-.  \.'  :  I  '  "^  "he  Binnenhof  "-K.irr  iu  U'l'J, 
on  a  fal^f^  charge  of  conspiring  against  the  Stadt- 
^j  'ice,  Prince  of  Orange,  son  of  Willbni 
at.  The  charges,  partly  of  withstanding 
his  authority,  which  he  had  illegally  augmeii  ♦  J 
with  a  view  to  becoming  independent  of  the  i  i  uiar 
vote,    ana   partly    a   religious    dispute,    co\ti    liiu 


t  ^j.L 


~"^'""'  '"-'^  *"*?5«4&P'"^ 


-  -.         .  .  ,  *■   **^ 


--^^^' 


THE   MAUEITSHUI3. 


memory  of  this  son  of  the  liberator  with  an  indelible 
stain  of  infamy.  Six  years  later,  having  brougiit; 
li.  iland  to  the  brink  of  ruin,  Maurice  died. 

The  Gevangenpoort  fifty- liiiee  years  later  wit- 
nessed an  even  more  cruel  '  ^edy,  when,  in  1672, 
Loiixciius  and  John  de  Witt  w^ere  seized  by  an 
infuriated  -  b  and  literally,  not  metaphori  • -v. 
t n    ill:  h   flu-.   ..^L-     It  formed   a  direct  conse- 


;  ) 


MOB  FURY 


8i 


quence  in  the  chain  of  events  beginning  with  the 
murder  of  Barneveldt.  John  de  Witt,  his  mind 
occupied  with  the  true  interests  of  his  country, 
was  a  statesman  convinced  that  the  republican 
form  of  Government  was,  and  always  had  been  since 
the  death  of  William  the  Silent,  menaced  by  the 
autocratic  aspirations  of  his  descendants.  William 
the  Third,  great-grandson  of  the  Silent  one  (and 
afterwards  also  William  the  Third  of  England), 
was  himself  actually  a  silent  man,  alike  by  tem- 
perament and  State  policy.  He  aimed  at  being 
unchallenged  ruler,  and  by  no  means  relished  the 
necessity  of  election  as  Stadtholder,  which  John 
de  Witt  maintained  was  not  merely  the  constitu- 
tional basis  of  the  country,  but  ought,  in  view  of 
the  efforts  at  personal  aggrandisement,  to  be  further 
restricted  and  safeguarded  by  conditions.  Unfor- 
tunately for  de  Witt,  there  was  then  a  popular 
party,  an  Orange  mob,  who  thought  i  otherwise. 
His  brother,  Cornelius  de  Witt,  was  'arrested  on  a 
false  charge  of  conspiring  to  assassinate  the  then 
newly-elected  Stadtholder.  John  de  Witt  was  lured 
to  the  Gevangenpoort  by  a  message  ^  purporting 
to  come  from  his  brother,  incarcerated  ,there.  It 
was  a  bait  contrived  by  the  Orange  party  with  the 
direct  connivance  of  William  to  secure  the  presence 
of  the  two  brothers  and  to  murder  them,  then  and 
there.  Such  are  the  ways  of  statecraft ;  and  such, 
on  occasion,  the  methods  of  one  who,  sixteen  years 
later,  became  with  his  wife,  Mary,  a  soverei^^n  in 


w 


h 


to 


ON  THE  ROAD  IN  HOLLAND 


1  T 


1    rties  of 


the  f^'^vuTitrx'. 


'T' 


.1    I  ill 


I    T-r.  !  1  m  .-.n  c 


Li"  i  1  r\ 


t , ,  i      ai".  ■  T'  I'  H  ^  ■  »■■?"•'  1 ' 


»    ,'  1       ^ 


na.: 


M'      !  I      i     f.     >    •  1 


i  \.  It,'  .. ..       •  *  i  . 
:  '  ■  t  '  •  h  > .  T  i       \\ 


.iM'eii- 


\  t 


■'•  la.emeiit    -=    a 

U  !i,i<  >u  W  Uc  belli g 

-^<  soiitaiT  holrl. 


'.    1   i  ' 


Till 'la   afi'    !a-ar:at  ;ia..-   u. 


1  !  r  ,?■■:!  t 


\\aa.,aa:'a'    it    ijr    iih:    aui  i 


/  a . » T  ■.  ,■  >  (■  r 

1,.<.L  i.i-  1 '.,'»-  .«.   : 

aiai    I II' 

]    f !  iJ  \'  1  t    ,  i    ' 
ill",    ^    i  L  '.«.  > 

t- 1  a ■  i . ''•■  I  i . »•  it 


I:  : 


!  t    I     ,   i  r 


ii  I 


.ail 


u. 


Hi 


■axaiaa  ,    lia'     iiiiUai 


f  * 


?•  \ 


UllvT 


>     t  , . , 


.\  f;*' 


It  in:  t^xtata-t'U  a^' 


^.       1      ■■       '     1      i,      ,  S,    iw 


lit 


i '  i  i  t 


wiU.^/r  iL  ar 


■ . .  a- 


\a^aiija.'    wnt 
aj  1' 

J  !a- 


,|-, , 


1  lit     U  lia.  ii    iia  V  I.     't  i*.  1  i. 

(jniif-^   a   With   T*aar-  aaa   i-"^d.  ni  the  saliool  (A  ex- 


r  f 


^,      t        ■?'■,.       I 


van  ions  :  a 
whna^  alia 
alont        lai 


fi 


n  \  a     forceful  con- 
3  ot  the  nation  a>  a 
ividually,  is   to  be   a:i 
!    v  want  so  to  be  let  al'  aa 


the  chief  d 


I'tM     piC       illU 


ana 


ixft' 


i-^ 


*  1     i  i  4.4    !. 


L  LX  L 


THE    DUTCH    NAVY 


83 


deal  more  than  little  Holland — the  army  i-  it  present 
being  increased,  and  what  they  call  a  aa\  \  hs  1 »  "ng 
St  aigthened.  The  suspicion  is  that  someuaa.  :-om.e 
day,  ail!  be  wanting  Java,  and  perhaps  ^  ra.itra, 
and  the  Lord  knows  what  else  in  the  East  ia  a-s. 
But  if  some  one  has  a  mind  to  doing  that,  it  :  ' 
need  all  ^loUand's  resources  to  keep  the 
possessions. 

You  hear  in  Holland  a  very  general  discontent 
with  proposals  for  military  expansion  and  for  increavse 
in  the  navy.  Holland,  although  actin^!^-  a  kingdom, 
is  in  essence  a  crowned  republic  and  is,  and  always 
has  been,  democratic  in  thought.  A  liv  nrup 
source  of  amusement  is  the  navy,  in  whose  es an  i  r^l 
ment  it  is  said  there  are  more  Aamirals  thaii  aips. 
It  would  not  become  a  foreign  visitor  either  im  wHte 
opnnons  on  these  matters  or  to  talk  them  ;  but 
he  may  report  the  talk  and  the  views  ui  liollan  n  rs 
themselves.  F' r  myself,  I  thmk  all  that  t  Jk 
of  there  being  more  Admirals  than  ships  is  a  a  vx^ 
aggeration.     Tt  is  more  like  one  Adni '    '  ^ 

It  may,  however,  be  conceded  thaa  ,  .  .,  x:  j 
as  a  nation  or  as  an  individual  hold  property  and  are 
not  able  to  defend  the  possession  of  it,  in  a  world 
not  now  less  ruled  by  might  than  it  was  ir]  a  j.  xp 
centuries,  someone,  sooner  or  later,  will  surely 
or  will  make  an  attempt  on  that  property.  Uiay 
by  a  show  of  force,  in  a  mobilised  army  during 
the  Great  War,  did  Holland  succeed  in  keeping  her 
frontiers  completely  inviolate. 


84 


ON  THE  ROAD  IN  HOLLAND 


THE  PALACE  OF  PEACE 


85 


There  is  a  Palace  of  Peace  at  The  Hague.  It 
was  established  by  idealists  with  much  money 
and  little  sense  for  the  purpose  of  affording  a  meeting 
place  where  the  representatives  of  nations  could 
meet  and  settle  their  disputes  amicably,  without 
recourse  to  arms.  The  very  need  imagined  for  such 
an  establishment  and  such  a  tribunal  was,  if  you  do 
but  consider  it,  the  gravest  warning  of  impending 
great  wars.  To-day  that  magnificent  Palace  is 
the  most  ironical  place  in  the  world  ;  and  Holland, 
the  most  non-partisan  nation,  where  it  was  thought 
most  fitting  to  build  that  Palace,  has  ever  since, 
unjustly,  been  accused  by  the  various  contending 
parties  in  the  Great  War,  of  sympathy  and  aid 
extended  to  one  side  or  the  other.  Actually,  Holland 
was  frantically,  as  a  nation,  anxious  to  keep  out  of 
it,  and  the  farmers  and  business  men  equally  con- 
cerned to  be  neutral  and  to  do  a  very  profitable 
business  with  all  belligerents.  Geographical  cir- 
cumstances made  Germany  the  best  customer. 

It  was  the  most  characteristic  as  well  as  the 
most  obvious  role  for  a  country  of  such  well-established 
trading  instincts,  and  a  country  so  small,  to  adopt. 
It  could  do  no  other  without  a  very  excellent  chance 
of  being  destroyed  by  one  set  of  belligerents  or 
another.  And  yet  the  history  of  the  Dutch  people 
might  well  make  any  Great  Power,  however  great, 
think  very  seriously  before  making  war  upon  Holland. 
So  Dutch  traders  and  farmers  did  very  well  out 
of  the  war,  up  to  a  point.     The  farmers  sold  their 


■n 


'^< 


•* 


best  products,  at  the  highest  prices,  to  Germany, 
and  retailed  the  inferior  stuff  for  home  consumption 
at  prices  by  no  means  less  ;  and  they  realised  great 
fortunes.  But  the  country  itself  went  short  of  food, 
and  the  expenses  of  mobilisation,  to  defend  the  land 
in  case  of  emergency  threw  a  heavy  burden  on  all. 
So  it  is  doubtful  whether,  when  a  balance  is  struck, 
the  enriched  traders  and  farmers  are  so  greatly 
advantaged,  after  all. 

Well,  then,  here  is  the  Palace  of  Peace  ;  that 
fatuous  creation  of  the  well-meaning  but  not  so 
very  wise  Andrew  Carnegie,  who  devoted  £300,000 
to  it ;  not  knowing  that  it  was  really  the  Mausoleum 
of  Peace  he  was  erecting.  For  Peace  that  really 
was  Peace  died  in  1914.  If  ghosts  can  revisit  these 
earthly  scenes,  surely  the  embarrassed  and  disap- 
pointed one  of  a  frustrated  old  idealist  must  haunt 
the  place. 

All  this  was  the  outcome  of  the  first  International 
Peace  Conference,  called  in  1899  by  Nicholas  the 
Second,  Czar  of  Eussia,  who  was  the  first  to  break 
the  peace,  in  spite  of  the  project  for  estabhshing 
councils  of  arbitration.  The  second  International 
Peace  Conference  in  1907,  perhaps  rather  hastened 
a  world-war  than  either  preventing  or  delaying 
it ;  for,  in  the  impossible  attitude  adopted  by  the 
German  delegates,  just  those  matters  which  were 
most  provocative  of  a  conflict  were  ruled  out  of 
discussion. 

In  fact,  later    history  has  shown  the  world  in 


86 


ON  THE  ROAD  IN  HOLLAND 


SCHEVENINGEN 


87 


n  t » T' 


nitir 


\i" 


r"; 


I 


a.-^  t! 


a- 


f'Sl 


-e; 


\.riat  many  of  them  clearly  saw,  that  Ger- 

was  determined  to  force  a  war,  in  which  she 

!  vH:     d  of  victory.     Thus  it  is  with  no  joy 

V     ralace  of  Peace,  and  see  the  elaborate 

ry    _I   it   all. 

h  :*\^'--  stands  in  grounds  of  sixteen  acres. 
i t. uaed  by  a  French  architect,  Cordonnier, 
ult  of  a  competition  in  which  two  hundred 
n  competitors  engaged  ;  and  was  completed 
if  i  U :;  10  house  the  Permanent  Court  of  Arbi- 
![.'  I  ^  it  just  in  time  for  the  Great  War.  One 
r-  r  '^  rather  more  than  anything  else,  among 
those  thmgs  not  seen,  that  Permanent  Court  and  its 
arbitrators  in  the  four  years  of  war. 

The  pi  u  visions  for  arbitrating  are  calculated  to 
inu  ress  with  the  difficulty  of  it  all ;  and  the  housing 
ui  Lnu  happy,  well-paid  delegates  with  the  jolly 
circumstances  of  being  an  arbitrator.  A  library 
^.f  2iHM)ui  books  is  there;  map-rooms  and  every 
d  vice  for  referring  to  abstruse  questions  ;  and  tele- 
ga rooms,  and  half-basement  quarters— a  kind 
of  semi-dungeons— are  provided  for  the  journalists 
who  are  (or  were)  to  report  the  deliberations  of  the 
dciugates.  The  nations  duly  played  up,  like  accom- 
j^i^:»-l  comedians,  to  this  tragic-comedy.  Great 
Br. lain  contributed  those  four  stained-glass  windows 
of  the  ' '!  it  court ;  France,  the  Gobelins  tapestries  ; 
I^;!l:  ,  some  pictures  and  the  seven  windows 
01  li  -taircase  ;  Germany,  the  massive  entrance- 
gat,        \      !ia    the  bronze  and  crystal  chandeliers; 


^ 


Li'-t. 


the  United  States,  an  allegorical  group  of  statuary ; 
and  1  hi  nations  in  their  several  ways  ;  not  forgetting 
n  H  I,  with  the  works  for  h  '  '  '^^vitzer- 
1      faced  with  the  probL  i  ..  its 

navy,  perhaps  felt  that  clockwnrT:^^  »  vt  i}  minor 
contribution — were  all  it  was  reasonably  called  upon 
to  contribute  in  the  cause  of  putting  a  slop  to  the 
growth  of  armaments. 

On  the  whole,  in  spite  of  all  the  money  lavished 
on  this  building,  it  is  architecturally  disappointing, 
and  a  mistake.  Disappointing,  for  the  work  is 
coarsely  executed  ;  and  a  mistake  because  in  this 
land  of  characteristic  and  fantastic  towers  without 
number,  to  add  another,  intended  to  be  much  of 
the  same  character,  but  of  inferior  design  and 
execution,  is  as  absurd  as  it  would  be  to  try  and 
sell  a  baker  an  ill-baked  home-made  loaf. 


XI 


If  you  wish  to  see  how  the  Dutch  enjoy  themselves 
at  the  seaside,  it  is  to  Scheveningen  you  should  go  ; 
although  indeed  Scheveningen  is  international,  or 
cosmopolitan  as  Ostend.  It  is  only  a  little  more 
^--1  ^wo  miles  from  The  Hague,  and  for  that  reason 
it  is  a  very  fashionable  place.  The  Palace  if  Peace 
sta-  i-  Hi  the  Park  Zoigviiet,  mimediati  y  to  the 
left.  beginning  of  the  old  road  fron  T      l!..-^\:'-^ 


ss 


ON  THE  ROAD  IN  HOLLAND 


DUTCH  SHIPPING 


89 


to  Scheveningen.  There  is  probably,  away  from  the 
Sahara  and  the  sandy  wastes  of  Egypt  not  so  much 
sand  anywhere  as  at  Scheveningen.  Sand  on  the 
shore,  sand  in  the  public-halls  and  casinos,  and  sand 
always,  and  very  much  of  it,  in  the  restaurants 
and  in  your  coffee.  And  you  find  next  morning, 
when  brushing  your  hair,  that  you  have  brought  some 
of  it  away  with  you.  The  multitudes  who  frequent 
Scheveningen  sit  there,  for  the  most  part,  on  these 
sands  in  extraordinary  chairs  which  seem  to  be 
a  combination  of  sentry-box  and  the  kind  of  chair 
used  by  the  porter  in  the  hall  of  an  old-fashioned 
club.  There  you  will  see  stolid,  fat,  middle-aged 
Dutch  people,  sleeping  away  the  afternoon,  like  a 
slug  in  a  cranny.  Perhaps  it  is  even  better  to  be  a 
reposeful  slug,  thinking  of  nothing  at  all,  than 
it  is  to  be  an  agitated  and  self-exhausting  grasshopper. 
I  do  not  know. 

An  Englishman,  I  think,  ought  to  see  Scheveningen, 
even  if  only  to  be  amused  at  the  fishermen's  red 
breeches,  the  enormous  figures  of  the  fishermen's 
women-folk,  who  seem  to  wear  more  petticoats 
here  than  anywhere  else  in  Holland,  and  the  bath- 
attendants,  with  ''  Badman  "  embroidery  on  their 
jerseys.  But  the  scene  is  not  what  you  who  came  to 
see  picturesque  Holland  really  have  come  for  ; 
and  the  ridiculous  seaside  villas,  of  the  same  order 
of  absurdity  as  those  in  France  and  Belgium,  but  if 
possible  more  absurd,  are  not  Dutch  architecture. 
T:.  V  are  not  architecture  at  all.    Remark  all  these 


;Jl 


things  to  a  Dutchman,  and  he  will  say  what  you  want 
is  Volendam,  with  Marken  added.  And  you  do. 
You  indeed  do  want  Volendam  and  Marken.  He 
intends  it  satirically,  for  the  Englishman,  and  the 
artists  of  all  nations,  go  there  for  the  picturesque 
costumes. 

When,  about  1380,  Willem  Benkelzoom  made  the 
great  discovery  that  with  the  aid  of  salt  a  fresh 
herring  can  be  preserved  and  stored  away,  instead 
of  going  bad  and  being  an  offence,  he  made  Schevenin- 
gen. Not,  be  it  said,  the  Scheveningen  of  the  Kur- 
saals,  the  Noah's  Ark  villas,  the  bathers  and  the 
Badmen,  but  the  real  old  fisher-place  that  was, 
and  in  its  own  quarter,  yet  is.  The  place  grew  up, 
besides  this  grey-blue  North  Sea,  on  the  herring- 
fishery  ;  and  just  according  to  whether  it  was  a 
good  season  or  a  bad,  Scheveningen  rejoiced  or 
BoiiiA.t  I.  flourished  or  suffered.  When,  in  June, 
the  catch  came  abundantly  home,  it  was  met  by  the 
fishermen's  folk  with  song ;  the  old  song  "  Die 
Nieuwe  Harang."     I  think  they  do  that  no    more. 

No  man  unless  he  be  a  Dutch  ''  schipper " 
could  possibly  enumerate  all  the  many  kinds  of 
vessels  seen  in  these  inland  or  coastwise  Dutch 
waters,  or  very  well  describe  their  build  and 
rig,  and  points  of  similarity  or  contrast.  The 
names  of  them,  from  boats  and  barges,  to  larger 
craft,  alt  bewildering.  There  are  ''praams" —  I 
know  what  a  *'  praam  "  is,  it  is  a  small  sort  of  a 
lighter,    very    often    used    for    conveying    market- 


90 


ON  THE  ROAD  IN  HOLLAND 


i!ard-?n 

I^xx 

laoe 

to    the              *     town; 

Schuits 

A, 

sc 

i,  i  I  J  i  1  ,  - 

riii'iis  (  : 

Hit  a 

i  > '  ail; 

a-:  -a  "pink"  In-. a.  ■    - 

;  - 1  a  ;  < '  ;    , 

aak-^.  I) 

'iiv:;. 

■^^'ll'  K., 

a-^  :    :up:    lu^'   ta-.'s. -^aa.i.' 

aa..i.ai 

passe  111: 

« '  r   t  r' 

a !  n './ 

is    inaaa  aa-d    ml    iha    r^iuA 

'^anaB 

r.,/U^^-, 

i    ii 

i   ».  ■  .  i           ^^  \ 

a.             J     t  11  the  boier 

}  ''■          ^    t                ,      ; 

vacht  ; 

aljl   t 

L*-'   nJ 

isanjics,  liiu  6ciiiii^)j  .ii.a  Uxu  a= 

'  '    '  _  1.  •    i     t  l5  , 

But     i 

IM  •  ' 

V                              * 

a     '        the    ''  paviljoen 

.               ...    V         " 

ri  y^  5;  a,. 

wLi  !-.^ 

; ;  1 1  L.  ^ 

^"^  '    f 

a  13    like    majestic    music 

all,,  id 

areiiit^'^. 

-Ufa! 

m  a 

^ri^rnnro-      ^omethino"   rnv 

al    and 

ff  HM   H, 'i  » 

ike 

t!.- 

I'ririoe   Bra^aa';-    iriarine    ai 

e   at 

Bn-hn. 

r: .  u- 

1'  \  >     i 

' a '  a '.;►■•  bass   >  an -;]■/;> fo,     J 

-^BDlllfJ 

iiKi'  a   \ 

'*  .''•'ft  J 

► '    r » T . 

'■  r;--:.a;a    Wa---'^-    ai    a    [h  >;lT 

\\     '.    \      ■    ;          ■   ■ 

sn- 

i^' 

:  1 1 

\  * ' 

■*r 

i 

of 

ti 

.  'f  r 

ta 

i     i-^ 

exi 

1 

a  ( 

'*■ 

V    *  J. 

A    V... 

A  ^-^ 
plara.* 


*!  ir     T 


,is  evrai 
oaa   t-aia 


i  i     f '  A  a 


r>  -,  r  ,  ■  f      t 


■a-"-; a    ^BiZTiity ;     but     (    ^vni''^: 
..  I    ae   quite,    or    a    a^^    a 

TBilland  ou^ht  to  be  the  foremost 

fitH  t  i-     Hit     Very   name,   althoiiirh 
seems  so  faa^lish,  is  Dutch.     TB  r 

of  boat  caliad  a  ''  iJ..a_.^  a„..a^.a  ^.a 
aaa„:  \-^^^::n"  T  have  not  =^a-=--'--j-=i 
[though  it  sounds  so  tvw  jj  i^ 
visualise  somethma    a^a'a,'*'- 


UU\  f 


I       Irft 

pa-t  the  }fuis  tail    la 
Hi   taa   WB^Mi  ''    i->   a 

in       ; ''      ^  f  ■ ,  .■      T  ^  '•  -^  *      »  1 1 

V  *-*■  A-  ■^-  ^  V  jt.  i  a  V  ■^-       *  ■■   -vi  .^      «..--  -.    .^  „ 


•anrrpn   and  so  through  the  Lu.icn, 

*  r  Leyden.     The  ''  IL  a^^e 

Palace,  not  oil  a   a>^a. 

''^--^aiationai    a'-a"^ 


i.   li   ■..,   i  I  ' 


.1  i  a,  <  a 


•=.--  ^  .^  ,.,.^ 


LEYDEN 


91 


the  quiet  of  the  woods  render  the  place  charming, 
although  the  exterior  of  the  Palace  itself  is  not  an 
imposing  work.  It  derives  from  a  villa  built  for  the 
wife  of  Prince  Frederick  Henry  of  Orange  in  1645. 
But  the  paintings  of  the  Orange  Hail  and  especi  - 
the  Japanese  and  Chinese  embroideries  and  cabia 
are  beautiful  enough  to  make  a  connoisseur  faint 
with  the  envy  of  baulked  possession. 

Leyden  is  nine  miles  distant.  The  Bosch  ends 
all  too  soon  and  you  come  into  Leyden  through  open 

country. 

There  is,  of  course,  a  good  deal  characteristically 
Dutch  in  that  ancient  town — canals  and  gabled 
houses  ;  but  the  famous  University  and  a  good  deal 
else  is  partly  like  some  eighteenth-century  town 
in  France  and  partly  resembles  the  old  courts  of 
the  Middle  and  Inner  Temple  in  London.  Pump 
Court,  in  the  Temple,  is  quite  typical  of  the  Univer- 
sity side  of  Leyden,  and  of  many  of  its  grave  and 
reverend  brick  streets. 

xilthough  the  University  was  founded  so  far  back 
as  1575 — which  is  as  the  day  before  yesterday 
in  comparison  with  Oxford  or  Cambridge,  it  has  not 
that  venerable  collegiate  appearance  we  generally 
in  England  associate  with  University  buildings. 
If  we  say  and  think  it  has  an  appearance  of  an  abode 
of  lawyers,  that  of  course,  is  by  association  with  the 
look  of  the  Temple  and  Gray's  Inn.  Yet,  although 
the  general  view  is  that  of  a  reserved  domestic 
architecture,    much   like    typical   old    Queen  Anna 


92 


ON  THE  ROAD  IN  HOLLAND 


THE  STADHUIS  TOWER 


93 


houses,  Leyden  University  actually  centres  about  a 
nunnery. 

It  has  always  been  an  abode  of  learning.     It  is 
probably  the  only  place  in  the  world  where  rooms  to 
let  are  announced  in  classical  language.     ''  Cubicula 
locanda  "  you  may  note  displayed  in  the  course  of 
your  explorations.     Learning  pervades  Leyden.     But 
it  is  learning  of  a  more  practical  kind  than  that  im- 
parted  at   Oxford   or  Cambridge,  and  it  has  never 
been   a  place  conferring  a  social  cachet.     Students 
are  not  sent  to  Leyden  to  make  friends  useful  in  after 
life  among  the  governing  classes.     They  go  seriously 
to  acquire  knowledge.     The  University  would  seem 
even  to  have   been  founded  on  that  serious  and 
thorough  note.     When    William    the    Silent    asked 
the  people  of  Leyden,  after  he  had  relieved  the  town 
after  its   gallant   defence   in   the   Spanish   siege   of 
li"!    how  he   should  recognise   their  bravery  and 
sacrifices,  they  chose  rather  to  have  a  University 
than  to  accept  the  offer  of  going  tax-free. 

Medicine  and  science  have  ever  been  the  chief 
subjects  on  which  Leyden  University  has  built  its 
fame.  Indeed,  so  awed  by  the  deep  knowledge 
of  its  professors  was  the  world  of  old  that  they 
were  supposed  to  dabble  in  the  black  arts  of  sorcery, 
and  to  be  questers  after  the  Philosopher's  Stone, 
which  would  turn  base  metals  into  gold.  W^hen 
an  electric  spark  was  produced  in  a  Leyden  jar, 
about  1729,  it  was  an  uncanny  demonstration 
absolutely  in  keeping  with  the  rather  uncomfortable 


reputation  for  mystic  deeds  which  the  learned 
but  harmless  professors  of  Leyden  had  long  been 
saddled  with.  But  it  was  rather  late  in  th-e  day 
for  sorcery. 

If  this  were  a  guide-book  (what  the  Dutch  style 
a  ''  gids  "  ;  one  of  those  words  they  have  adopted 
from  the  French  and  given  a  grotesque  spelling), 
a  very  gxeat  deal  could  be  written  of  the  history 
of  Leyden,  and  of  the  contents  of  its  museums 
and  picture-galleries.  Holland  seems  to  the  stranger 
to  be  a  land  of  picture-galleries  and  museums.  But 
these  pages  are  nothing  like  that.  They  are  just 
impressions.  That  being  so,  it  behoves  the  writer 
to  give  his  immediate  impressions  of  such  outstanding 
objects  as  readily  attract  attention.  The  chief 
among  these  is  unquestionably  the  Stadhuis  tower 
and  spire.  It  generally,  as  a  matter  of  fact,  is  so, 
in  any  Dutch  town.  This  feature  of  Leyden 
Stadhuis  is  however,  a  very  tall  and  upstanding 
one  and  a  prime  specimen  of  the  fantastic,  or  ''  design- 
it-as-you-go-on  "  style.  Making  a  beginning  as  a 
respectable,  steady-going,  rather  stodgy  tower,  it 
then  begins  an  amazing  and  soaring  career  of  what 
look  like  articles  of  domestic  furniture  and  decora- 
tion piled  one  upon  another  during  an  orgie  of 
spring-cleaning  ;  Moorish  tea-tables,  occasional  tables, 
work-boxes  and  those  misbegotten  objects  neither 
of  use  nor  beauty  which  most  people,  even  the 
best-intentioned  among  us,  accumulate.  This  ex- 
traordinary pile  finally  proceeds  to  its  conclusion 


i'i 


Hit 


94 


ON  THE  ROAD  IN  HOLLAND 


lething  like  the  gigantic  model  of  a  pine 
,  lupptu  with  the  lantern-cage  of  a  lightship. 

It  is  only  one  of  many  of  the  kind  in  Holland, 
1  ut  it  is  a  prime  specimen,  and  it  renders  at  least 
one  rorner  ui  staid  Leyden  as  completely  and 
I  t  ously  Dutch  as  anything  in  the  country. 
Thi  in  n  -  liate  surroundings  ably  keep  it  in  coun- 
tenance. There  in  the  foreground  is  the  Visch- 
iian::  ,L  i.eed  not  translate  that  into  English), 
anf!  what  looks  like  a  canal,  but  is  indeed  the  Rhine  ; 
all  tL  it  is  left  of  it  by  the  time  it  comes  to  Leyden  ; 
or  ratiier  the  Old  Rhine.  Other  and  lustier  Rhine 
mouths  are  those  at  Rotterdam  and  Dordrecht ; 
and  oii...iier  elsewhere.  Under  various  aliases,  just 
like  any  other  German  seeking  to  disguise  his 
I  I  hality,  they  pretend  to  be  other  than  they  are, 
and  so  escape  away  as  the  Maas,  the  Waal,  the 
Yr-'  !,  and  the  Merw^ede,  and  possibly  others  yet. 

The  most  staid  and  placid  object  in  this  view, 
c  ; :  ':  g  to  rcprovc  all  this  fantasy,  is  the  Koren- 
L-.^ig,  a  bridge  with  a  classic  timber  covered  way 
Of:  it.  very  dignified,  but  looking  scandalised  by 
ii->  situation,  and  hurt  by  being  placed  in  a  false 
pDsition  on  a  bridge  where  it  appears  to  have  no 
business  at  all. 

li  yuii  have  speech  with  the  good  folk  of  Leyden, 

K   :       uite  likely  that,  seeing  you  to  be  a  stranger 

I  :      riaccountably  interested  in  such  things,  you 

re    infnrmed   that   Rembrandt   was   a   native 

:      n.     Leyden  is  not  greatly  intrigued  with 


W;: 


%*«\>^i- 


— — — raat..  I  .1    >  V, 


'^^yt::. 


LBYDEN:   THE     8TADHUIS    TO  WEE   AISD 


I   *J»  v..'  jL*  ^ 


BHINX. 


9 
I 


-w 


REMBRANDT 


97 


the  foremost  of  Dutch  painters,  and  there  is  not 


one 


t,  ., 


t-    i 


Uli 


■j*^.,i 


t   I 


u  ^  J 1, 


i  u  >. 


vvorks  in  the  place.     But  anyone  will 

li  he  was  born  ;  in  a  mill  to  be  found 

situated    outside    the   town,    on   the 

lie  was  not,  as  a  sheer  matter  of  fact, 

but  picturesque  legends  are  ever  more 

accrpfnble  ^^nn  facts.     He  was,  it  is  true,  son  of 

armei  :  van  Ryn,  whose  mill  stood  on 
hi  present  one,  and  was  born  in  1606, 

t  he  town  ;  but  as  no  one  knows  exactly 

ill  has  been  adopted  as  the  birthplace 
^^  hen  he  was  in  his  twenty-first  year, 
to  Amsterdam,  and  Leyden  knew  him 


tl 


it' 


■  i  '        < 


t   ■  »•» 


in    fj^' 


n-i 


no  ! itj J ri\ 


aru  .L. 
semic 


>'i  I  i 


i,  U  Itl  i 


and  -IK  h.  too 
Hooglaiid^rii 


Jl  JLA  \_/  i  i   ;.  -i 


nes 


AS     I  lit' 

r{n>]rTr;  -  -1 

pets,  ( 

du 


T--  ;  J 


camr 


!i  church  interiors  are  singularly  alike.    All 

iiost  have  apsidal  east  ends,  with  a 

fer  of  columns  in  the  choir  and  an 

Li  A  them.    Such  is  bi,.  Peter's,  Leyden, 

i^  ^t.  Pancras,  better  known  as  the 

\  rk.     In  the  first  is  the  very  fine 

al  ^'in^y,  by  Hombaud  Verhulst,  of  Johan- 

K    ckhoven,   1660;   and  in  St.   Pancras' 

beautiful  little  mural  monument,  charmingly 

ulptuii  1  with  Cupids  blowing  trum- 

i -hearted  Burgemeester  of  Leyden 

I!     siej:3  of  1573-4;  that  enduring  Peter 

V   li    a  [    Werff   who,    when   the    burghers 

I*  i  nag,  to  him,  saying  they  were  starving, 

tli  a  they  could  have  his  body  to  stay  their 

i  they  would,  but  surrender  he  would  not. 

a 


51 


I 


98 


ON  THE  ROAD  IN  HOLLAND 


XII 


Fifteen  miles  separate  Leyden  and  Haarlem,  pass- 
ing Sassenheim,  Lisse,  Hillegom,  Bennebroek,  and 
Vogelzande.  It  is  a  country  of  sand,  for  the  sea, 
although  not  visible  from  the  road,  is  not  far  away, 
and  to  the  right  stretched   for  miles  until   1853, 


/  ".'-.7>*^-'«Tr. 


r;    1-;-  '  <•"/   t.^. 


•A  '  J5"      - ;       -"*       -  • 


B 


fv^^vnbt's  mill,  leyden. 


when  the  draining  of  it  was  completed  after  fourteen 
years'  work,  the  great  Haarlemmer  Meer,  an  inland 
sea  on  which  battled  in  the  sixteenth  century  the 
ships  of  the  "  Water-Beggars  "  and  the  Spaniards. 
Seventy-two  square  miles  were  added  to  the  country 
when    that    water    was    aboUshed    and    the    fertile 


TULIPS  AT  HAARLEM 


99 


Haarlemmer  Polder  took  its  place.  The  depth 
(  f !  he  meer  was  never  more  than  six  feet,  and  generally 
only  about  four,  yet  on  it  naval  battles  were 
lost  and  won,  and  at  the  draining  away  of  the 
water  many  relics  of  these  conflicts  were  dis- 
covered. 

There  is  thus  not  merely  much  sand,  but  a  certain 
kind  of  look  as  of  new  settlements  about  the  villages. 
They  are  upstarts  and  not  picturesque. 

The  business  of  all  this  part  is  the  old  famous 
('!u  ui  tulip-growing,  to  which  were  long  since  added 
other  bulbous  flowers  ;  and  more  recently  the  growing 
of  roses.  Approaching  the  town  of  Haarlem,  the 
road  runs  through  the  lovely  Haarlemmer  Hout, 
or  Haarlem  Forest.  The  town  is  the  capital  of  all 
this  floricultural  industry,  which  you  perceive  to 
be  an  extremely  busy  and  profitable  trade  ;  not  only 
by  the  wayside  evidences  of  numerous  large  firms 
engaged  in  it,  with  their  extensive  fields  and  con- 
siderab!  business  premises,  but  by  the  beautiful 
modern  villas  in  their  own  wooded  grounds  in  the 
Forest.  Modern  Continental  villas  are  too  fre- 
quently garish  and  pretentious,  and  so  completely 
lacking  in  taste  that  they  are  a  by- word.  And  when 
a  builder  erects  one  by  the  sea,  he  seems  to  go  quite 
rabid  Rut  these  country  houses  are  distinguished 
exceptions ;  and  as  we  come  into  the  suburbs  of 
prosperous  and  expanding  Haarlem,  it  will  be  found 
that  they,  too,  partake  of  that  renaissance  of  taste 
which  began  (to  give  a  convenient  date),  with  the 


100 


ON  THE  ROAD  IN  HOLLAND 


THE  TULIP  MANIA 


lOI 


^,pp..:>.^    nf    ila-    [wi  ::ii<-''u    <■■-':. ^'-.rv,   ana    iia^   since 

tl^.n^    ui.ni    Ui.ll'-i    '.\-r-.  wi.yn-    i..y    r'..^    r;r,,,a    War, 

made  ast'..!u:-hih.j  :  rugrcss. 

Kv.  rv  r,  i  .,-  read  of  that  great  Tulip  Mania 
vv'  ;:  -  in  n.-  -;i':^  I'-iii  -.  in-  :>'-\->  :.^"-*ith  century 
.,.,:*  :.il  IhAli'/i  ■.  r::/v  with  ^upru Jatiuii ^  11. e  tulip 
ssa.  iiJ.t  heard  o!  ::  \--y-  ■  ■'  ^"  ■  -  ^  ^'-^uer 
saw  y.  -p^''f'inif^n  growu;^  in  ::  j -•';-!.  ::  i  ...^^  .'.-, 
m  (ifrn.a.r.} ,  I^  had  i--,.  ---  ..  '  .--^  .;  *  L'  ;  ^  . 
Soon  attervvuras  thi-  a^i-  P  ':  :^'-'--  -^-  ■  ^^-^  ^' 
br,-arut:  u  pa^^ion  WitJi  w,.rit}:y  fand^T^,  and  by  IniH? 

T.u>M'.:-  some.  Xiie  cuil  was  n  fadncai,  rjiLar  than  it 
n:ai    intrin>i-    Liypreciation    of    n:*^    lann-    iu,i ana-^r 

^r,(l  .-ta^a!\-  1^^'^antv,  \\>  ma^-  la^a  m,  f/xnatiiatioii 
of  t}^,:  nv-rr..,,i.:n  ara-  fr-in:\'  -f  tia-  iiae  m  price?  of 
tui:p-n  h^,  cuaan,.,na,i:  a,  iu^Jb  m  ila'  v.uaa  -a  :.i 
.inuU,  ^./^y.r  ,Ja;.-^.^^^:.  hnih,  ^T^ifl  for  KiJanij  iiurniS, 

orab'.ul  .ti,:JUU,  U.  nia;  ^aaaa.r,  ?^,..w  v,.;.hth  ^h  firaiai:,!. 

^"Le  ^tnd^an  arH  per-^ai;t,.|  Jaiaj  a-i  Spcnaad:  lap^i^rus- 
w;ra:  haci  }>v  diL'  ai  ifa'  traar^:n  ahpaa-^  (A  har  iner- 

fl.uin-.    baaana-   ;aa:ai>a:y^   prr.y'ar.a,.if^.       .Nut   a-n!y   htui 

Spain  ba..a,i  p^^J'niwJia  htana  ra  bn^^  th-  Diiu^h  tracier^^ 

:bc.        j'i  V*an'a:bii-t'    if;    !!aaa?al    a*' 

an-ce  of  ra-a^paiatv   war-   laairiDii 
j(^  <-  artists,     T'^  it  v-^-  ^'naa  tla:^ 

)]:i,  !:    r'ab^aa    ra    !au!,n-:ra   !!:   tiait 

;■  *  ;-M   i  iia,^  \i   lb aau -.•-:i.ia.i '-  arvriit^-a' 

a     iu    da     j^:avuiy    >ta'ihanM:'n,    and 


had  aapnirad  la  !■  i 
that    liHa'   tb''    aa-: 

frUit  Hi  iba  i.na-.a 

frfca '     '.-a'a'K^-    Ca     "^  I.' 

ara,  ,,:aai  Ua'-  la-'  ■ 

tUra.     as     avyri 


other  pubiic  and  pravaita  buiidings.     Ihe  pu^sesmjii 


of  anything  rare  was  competed  for,  and  it  needed 
little  for  the  araaa:aor  r.f  a  crazc. 
But   tha    T     a    M  became   a   madness   that 

went  aa>  ia,r  as  t^i  Inaajine  a  stock-exchange  boom  ; 

avers  who  never  wished  to 
nd  sold  what  they  never 

rha  turn 


Y        i  %  %      T 


<'    I 


.1:: 


-  ^.    tu   specuiute 

■    "    *    a  buyer  would 

An   amusinp:  story 


and  dealers  and  p 

gruw   the   bulbs    n^aig  a; 

saw,   biter t  only  n: 
()l    tilt,'    n^.^: .  '  i  : -v  . 

in  luiips. 

r)aaa^i,^.nal]v    b    "     '  ' 
takf;    deb  vara    ui    a    :  .a 

wais  tt'id  (A  d  niercduint  wpu  aati    '  -  n     --  :  ■    : 

Af-"ff>ik'r  ,J  (/pa  </,;,.;  wiiiidi  l.,.a:.        ■  "  •    -     a     ,    .- ; 

eitlaar  not  a  vvrv  naH  d  apeciUian.  .a-  --w  -q  paria 
in  the  n>ta  b  .  .  is  we  have  seen,  a  nin  i  aa 
name  r*'<e  t,-  ,daf^->i  four  times  as  ninidn  He  was 
pa^alaibd'  -I  -a-  a  :  merchant,  wnsi  was  ia*;lai^ina.: 
t(i  sir  on  a;-   -  -   a  '      . 

IbiT  not    1  V  r:  '■  .a.  !!a   :  ^  f  -  en  Pa    a      -^i   it  tei 
aaaHiter   -!    P:  •    -a:.  'W  .  ,     , 

he  jait  it  ^a  :•     a.^    'a^   a..-.'  ^  a      ..-•...,  •  •  - 

to  (iefiaait  it  m  the  safe  a.r  maaa  A\'  ..  .  *, 
his  neirbaenee  eu^rsi  iiim  hia  La^naa  n>jr  .i  u:.  .  .  .  o 
has]  acan-  tt*  ehe  him  news  oi  tn-    irrivai  a:'  -hips 

ti:    aab^    t!a^    '■  ■    .  -    Waa    an   OniOD,    ;.nd    pa!    n"    in    his 

poiku.  oj  •  a"  '  L  d  <  ipia\n  wbdi  a  n  a  iaatn.a  The 
menhant.    a:-,   ^  .a   missed  hi:-   ...      w  -ibv 

tu  bnd  the  i,^niji  aatnpn  tlie  biat  :n  _..'..  :  mae 
I2s0  wa)rth  ed  rehsh  wiili  lua  food. 

Wdian  tiic  iuhp  Manui  buiat,  iB  1636,  and  prices 


a 


102 


ON  THE  ROAD  IN  HOLLAND 


THE  GROOTE  KERK 


103 


IjL  .  Lanitously,  thousands  of  people  were  ruined 
fiT  1  the  very  trade  of  the  country  suffered  severely 
f  I  years.  Tulips  were  then  comparatively  cheap, 
and  a  Semper  Augustus  which  had  been  13,000 
florins'  value,  was  worth  only  50  florins. 

There  is  a  Tulip  Sunday  around  Haarlem,  towards 
the  close  of  April.  Foreign  tourists  therefore  do 
not  often  see  Haarlem's  most  beautiful  sight,  nor 
the  acres  upon  acres  of  hyacinths  ;  only  the  coloured 
pictui  -postcards  of  them.  Those  bloom  all  the 
year  round  in  the  shop-windows  of  the  town,  but 
they  scarcely  fill  the  place  of  the  actual  display. 

TL.  n..tch  bulb-growers  are  used  to  great  crowds 
of  visitors,  mostly  their  own  compatriots,  at  tulip 
and  hyacinth-time.  It  is  a  recognised  pilgrimage, 
to  drive  to  the  flower-farms  and  admire  those  gor- 
geous carpets  of  colour  ;  but  while  you  are  loud  in 
praise  of  the  Darwin  tulips,  or  are  especially  interested 
in  hyacinths  that  appeal  to  your  aesthetic  tastes, 
the  grower  himself,  it  will  be  found,  is  apt  to  be 
enthusiastic  only  on  varieties  that  do  not  especially 
appeal  to  you.  For  he  is  a  connoisseur,  not  of 
necessity  in  beauty,  but  far  more  likely  in  rarities. 
And  you  have  to  recollect  that  he  is  a  bulb-grower 
not  for  the  joy  of  seeing  all  these  acres  in  bloom — 
which  after  all  is  only  a  very  fleeting  joy— but  for 
business.    And  a  very  thriving  kind  of  business  it 

remains. 

To  visit  one  of  these  business-men  at  "  coffee- 
drinking,"  which  we  would  call  tea-time,  with  a 


Dutch  friend,  and  then  to  go  with  him  and  listen 
to  the  talk  about  new  varieties  of  feathered  and 
striped  tulips  is  to  learn  that  novelty  is  far  more 
admired  than  intrinsic  beauty ;  because  novelties 
are  more  valuable. 

The  great  bulb-barns,  where  in  June,  when  the 
flowering  is  all  done  and  when  the  bulbs  are  brought 
in  to  be  dried  and  cleaned,  sorted  and  stored  away, 
are  interesting.  The  slightly  aromatic  interiors  are 
busy  with  workpeople,  brushing  the  onion-like  bulbs 
and  peeling  them.  Others  are  putting  them  away 
into  bins,  and  into  racks,  according  to  varieties  ; 
the  racks  reaching  far  away  overhead,  into  the  dim 
recesses  of  the  roof,  accessible  only  by  long  ladders. 
Generally  there  is  a  cat,  or  a  number  of  cats,  living 
in  the  barns,   for  mice   seem  to  be  rather  fond  of 

bulbs. 

The  centre  of  Haarlem  is  the  Groote  Markt, 
where  the  great  church  of  St.  Bavo  stands  in  one 
corner,  with  the  electric  trams  swinging  round  the 
narrow  street  at  the  east  end  of  it,  and  the  statue 
of  Coster  and  the  old  Meat  Market  at  the  west  end. 
The  Haarlemmers  consider  that  Coster,  and  not 
Gutenberg,  of  Mayence,  invented  the  art  of  printing, 
shortly  before  1447.  The  Chinese  believe  that 
(with  a  difference)  they  did  the  same,  and  forgot 
all  about  it,  many  centuries  before. 

The  great  church  is  one  of  the  finest  in  Holland, 
celebrated  too,  for  its  great  organ,  built  in  1738, 
and  one  of  the  largest  known.    You  can  hear  the 


104 


ON  THE  ROAD  IN  HOLLAND 


thunders  and  the  reverberations  of  it  from  without, 
in  spite  of  the  rattle  of  the  electric  trams.  The 
Koster  who  showed  me  round,  with  a  pruiound 
indiflerence  to  this  exceptionally  beautiful  church 
and  spat  indifferently  on  the  floor  and  the  pillars 


'if*'-^-Mjl-ii^r'jl|jll|ib-|Ittt^i^^ 

EX-VOTO    SHirS,   IIAAELEM. 

^^-         ■  ;  removed  his  hat — quite  an  exceptional 

thing  in  this  country  m  the  House  of  God,  which 
perhaps  does  not  seem  to  them  to  be  divinely  occu- 
pied di  u-    ^  other  than  those  of  Divine  Service. 


EX  VOTO 


105 


(3  L)  i  1  i  I  J-  • 

in 
in 

all  iiiit.;riur> 


It  is  a  curious  mentality  which  will  permit  a  Dutch- 
man to  wear  his  hat  in  a  church,  while  he  would 
always,  with  an  instinctive  politeness,  remove  it 
tjii      itering  a  private  house. 

Perhaps  it  may  be  the  survival  of  a  hatred  and 
contempt  for  the  old  religion  of  the  persecuting 
liiig  ago,  which  revealed  itself  tlion 
a;  1  estruction,  and  still  bin  vs  u-/^' 
i  -  -li-iy  and  thoroughly  white wii-i^ 
'  ih^  n^-iK^ss  of  bare  meeting-houses. 
'  erior  of  St.  Bavo  is  rather  exceptionally 
here  nre  even,  \Hiy  astonishingly, 
^^ni  ill  models  of  ships  i  ided  m  the  choir.  They 
uaic  ixuiu  luiib,  but  represent  earlier  ones.  In  a 
Ii-^man  Catholic  church  we  should  ca!!  them  "  ex 
voto,"  and  regard  them  as  pecuharly  Catholic 
oiienni^s. 

On    i    vn]^' 

the  boy  wh 
and  so  di    ! 


\.f  i    I  i  iX  V*- 


f , 


^    i:x^i 


'4  V 


close  at  hand,  the  heights  of  some 
vely  tall  and  ah     i  Hv  short  Haarlem- 
-  -   about  in  the 

.  I  sought  it)  is  the  gravestone  of 
'^vo'  rude  to  his  father  and  mother, 
His  little  finger  according  to 
nyi  fir  ugh  the  slab,  and  has  to  be 
I  every  five  years.  The  pruning 
v^a  place  shortly  before  my  visit ; 
r  was  there. 
,  you  perceive  piles  of  ''  stoofs  " 
npr Unrated  wooden  boxes 
li  .tch  churches,  often 


\f^     "zrvri ! 


n 


io6 


ON  THE  ROAD  IN  HOLLAND 


THE  SPANISH  SCOURGE 


107 


carved  and  brightly  painted.  To  a  stranger  their 
use  is  rather  puzzhng,  but  possibly  you  have  guessed 
already  that  ''  stoof "  means  literally  "  stove." 
They  are  the  usual  winter  foot-warmers  for  the 
P  ;'  h  women  during  service,  and  contain  a  metal 

ay    for   peat.     The    Dutchwomen    sit    with    their 
feet  on  them,  hidden  beneath  their  capacious  skirts. 

'  >!ie  object  the  Koster  will  be  sure  to  point  out. 
That  is  the  cannon-ball  still  embedded  in  the  wall. 
It  passed  through  the  church,  above  the  pulpit, 
just  missing  the  preacher's  head.  It  is  a  relic  of 
tl-  irreat  and  tragic  siege  of  Haarlem  by  the  Spaniards 
i:.  17  J  Haarlem  does  not  forget  that.  The  starv- 
ing and  hard-pressed  people,  relieved  from  time  to 
time  in  that  severe  winter,  when  the  Haarlemmer 
Meer  was  soUdly  frozen  over,  and  when  provisions 
were  brought  in  by  helpers  coming  through  the  fogs 
uL  i  .  irkness  on  skates,  could  at  last  endure  no  more. 
Winter  passed  and  with  it  the  protection  of  the  ice. 
Yet  it  was  not  until  July  12th  that,  after  vainly 
expecting  relief  by  the  troops  of  the  Prince  of  Orange, 
Haarlem  surrendered.  Men,  women  and  children 
alike  had  fought  the  Spaniards,  and  had  repulsed 
them  with  heavy  loss,  repeatedly.  Trained  soldiers 
could  have  done  no  more. 

The  horrors  of  the  massacre  that  followed,  when 
two  thousand  three  hundred  Haarlem  citizens  were 
LLxaiuc  red,  in  a  savage  reprisal  for  their  heroic  defence 
of  seven  months,  are  a  part  of  the  story  common 
lu  many  a  Dutch  town.     Twelve  thousand  of  those 


Spanish  besiegers  had  fallen  by  wounds  or  disease 
in  those  seven  months  ;  and  Philip  of  Spain,  long 
vainly  expecting  the  surrender,  was  ill  at  Segovia. 
The  news  of  the  surrender,  however,  communi- 
cated to  him  by  the  Duke  of  Alva,  restored  him  to 
health.  His  secretary,  Cayas,  wrote  from  Madrid, 
*'  The    principal    medicine    which    has    cured    His 


THE  GROOTE  MARKT,  FAAHLEM. 


Majesty  is  the  joy  caused  to  him  by  the  good  news 
which  you  have  communicated  of  the  surrender  of 
Haarlem." 

The  recovery  from  those  terrible  times  seems  to 
us  astonishingly  swift  and  complete.  Twenty-eight 
years  later,  so  prosperous  had  Haarlem,  among 
many  other  towns,  become  that  it  was  the  centre 
of  a  school  of  architecture.     Soon  after  the  opening 


A 


io8 


ON  THE  ROAD  IN  HOLLAND 


f        t  ^i 


M.    V  t'i  I  I.  ft; ;  i  i    [l 


M^Mt  .Mark>*T:,  liai-i 


i  J ' ' 


l:{.'' 

na 

H'S<, 

ir 

V 

1 

f 

■^ 

\)U. 

■ ' ,  i 

'  > ',  ■  f 

i  '  I 

f 

to 

a 

.  4    t 


,K  I  n  ^ 


S  \!  I  ■      H  ;  JM 


1603,  was  built  the 


i\''r;{  ;  onp  of  tJi6 


n  J  .; 


if-    liiLucLci,     iii      LiiC      P'%/: 


ir,"!^' 


»J  V 


N^niia 


i  i  >„  i  ; 


I'i 


ana   u.^'    ii.iost   successfiii    ^': 
in    T.^ndnn    \%   the    '   "  • 
d"  \  ■:>*  corti^'T  =  '  ]■  ,      -  . 

'  J  )  ,  ■     ■  '^  ,     *.        O  C  .       U  U<jlj.j.OO   kj        J     «...  i  1-1.  V  l_, 

h;  ijiiildings  with  tli^^  -mw-  u^ 

i:.a  !  il  i  J,  ^-Uii     LUlxU'Jii^^     ►_:'.;  U 111 


but 


I   i  1  T"  •  1 


The  ihiu-trv  ixiA.  the  ui  ir  i  determination  of 
the  i)un  h.  pr^nplp,  working  togeiiici^  *<>  it^irieve  the 
ipH   of   a    f^'i\ai:i.    >loininatioii.    .u,'i    conscious   <;'   a 

ii>ar  rt'biiits  alike  in  v.-a.iu 
Ti;  we   men  who   brought 


1  i )  ♦ ' 


>■•  ? 


t:  A  I 

and    artir^i''    exrT' 


i  i. ;.  4,  ■    4 


i'--  lu  bu  iound  }.'iL 


he 


f  Fraii-  Ha,:-,  who  w-^knu.  lisT^  in  TTaarlem 


truo 
works 

ill  those  v-ar-,  a!id  until  itioi.  i  a-r^  "^'  a  are,  in 
ten  la'ba-  r-aiiitiiw^,,  in  the  niunnaiMi  niuseiun  ; 
th^-^  ''  \xmAvi\i<V:r-.:'  a;,'.--.^  aa:-a^^^  "^  --aaM  a-ation '' 
pioae- :  Nu;ii"Ki-  '''-dVi  der  Mccr,  {>aa..ea;i'-c>a:r  ut 
Haiaranu,  aan  !a-  ^vafe  ;  and  others  ;  the  w.a-;.;  -^  ^kat 
re  itest  <  1  a-     au-i-,  which  no  visitor  to  Haarlem 


can  atiora  tu  ina-s. 
Haariena  i-  ar^.-v; 


»t.     It  has  a 


i.«>  O   i  , 


i     •  ^   ^ 


WHERE  THE  BABIES  COME  FROM  109 

as  can  be  imagined ;  where  the  modern  hotels  are, 

and    I  ha    ar^ait    hais^.nes'-    af'/a-a'^a-- :    a!1    very   laicr- 
national  ana,  \ai-aj.. ^na,  naon -■. 

Betara  f  aiding  good  b\e  .       a,  I  sought  on 

its  aut:darta  the  old  iaai  nailed  '^  K^^a-nkjelek,'' 
whose  naiii-  mL^ixs  *'  the  leaking  t.iph^  X-ar  by 
it  ;  ,n  a  -^  a^  ^  hollow  oak;  its  hollowed  trunk 
rail  i  aw  which  is  (or  at  any  rate,  used  to  be), 
greatly  report  !  t  »  i  v  those  Haarlem  families  who 
desired  additions  to  their  ranks.  Or  so  the  story 
gois,  it  was  good  enough  for  the  children  of  a 
simpler  aire  When  a  boy  or  girl  was  required, 
aas  sent  to  the  tree,  In  \^hose  hollowed 
numbers  of  lovelv  infanis  waiting 
imed.  They  received  the  nurse  with  appeals 
oi  dai  .  me,  take  me,"  Selecting  one  or  more, 
1 1  e  liurse  extracted  a  promise  of  good  behaviour, 
una  ua  vcd  the  recruits  home.  So  it  was  that 
i!  an]  m  children  were  ill-behaved,  tiuar 
s  always  reminded  them  of  a  pwraa-e. 
a  4  recorded  a- 1  a  n.-r  xli^y  threatened  to  send 


j-(:.ee'=:s^>    were 


+ ,  ■   a. ,. 


wlic 


It  a 
thw 


aiad  through  the  railings,  but  I  could  see  no 
n  ;  so  I  presume  that  to-day  they  are  obtained 


i,  ■  i  '^  5^     > '»   A  i  \ ,  (L  v3 » 


no 


ON  THE  ROAD  IN  HOLLAND 


XIII 

r 

I  LEFT  11  arlem  for  Amsterdam  by  road.  Had 
I  known  what  those  ten  miles  of  road  were  like, 
I  would  have  gone  any  other  way,  for  truly  it  is  as 


THE   AMSTERDAM   GATE,    HAAELEM. 


depressing  a  route  as  well  may  be  imagined  ;  and  it 
does  by  no  means  maintain  the  picturesque  promise 
of  the  exit  from  Haarlem  by  the  Amsterdamsche 
Poort.      That  ancient  gate,  the  only  one  remaining, 


:? 


N EARING  AMSTERDAM 


III 


presents  two  faces  altogether  unlike  each  other, 
one  towards  the  town  and  the  other  to  Amsterdam. 
There  is  a  great  deal  of  traffic  along  this  road,  and 
the  roadway  through  the  gate  is  now  far  too  narrow. 

In  all  those  ten  miles  to  Amsterdam  you  pass 
through  dismal  dull  scenes  such  as  you  are  accus- 
tomed to  on  the  outskirts  of  every  great  and  growing 
city.  There  is  the  expectation  of  further  expansion, 
in  the  notice-boards  of  land  for  building,  and  indeed 
in  factories  built  a  little  before  the  psychological 
moment,  and  now  with  r  o^ices  offering  ''  Te  Koop," 
i.e.,  "  To  be  Sold  "  ;  and  houses  "  Te  Huur,"  that 
is,  "  To  Let."  An  unpicturesque  canal  on  one  side 
of  the  road,  an  electric  light-railway  on  the  other, 
and  an  ordinary  railway,  all  combine  to  make  the 
way  unpleasant ;  and  there  are  many  more  motor 
cars  here  than  anywhere  else  in  Holland  ;  a  country 
where,  as  a  rule,  there  are  singularly  few. 

This  unprepossessing  approach  is  succeeded  by  a 
long,  narrow,  intensely  crowded  and  busy  street 
conducting  directly  to  the  harbour  and  the  Central 
railway  station,  which  faces  it  and  is  Central  only 
in  name.  There  are  no  railways  at  all  in,  or  anywhere 
near,  the  centre  of  Amsterdam,  which  is  the  Oude 
Turfmarkt.  There  could  not  very  well  be  railways 
there,  because  of  the  conditions.  Amsterdam  is 
built  on  piles  amidst  the  waters.  The  street  plan 
of  it  very  closely  resembles  the  half  of  a  spider's 
web,  or  the  half  of  a  wheel,  and  comparatively  few 
of  those  streets  are  without  a  canal,    it  is  these 


112 


ON  THE  ROAD  IN  HOLLAND 


canals,  !  r  ^     which  t  ^  -   ^ 

;    ions  of  the  houses 

often  <\i^'vT\y  Uc-li'^:^  :.  :;.  ' :,' 

it!  parts  of  the  city, 

whh/i;.  f;;j  v'>.;  invr-n  A,;:..- »  =  :'!. I! 

1  i\]^  \"rv  obvion-  Tiam«^ 

> 

,  r 


oil 


!  !    I  ;l  H  I 


vs 


V.  n,niMi,  inriiMiiig 


1 1     >  1 1 1  ■ 


!c--    i:^  most  ui    Liic  diaJii'.iL 

market  f'^r  (li-rn'-isa,^  u  = 


r,  M'lA    ' 


-r' 


THE   WEEPERS*    TOWER,  AMSTERDAM. 

i!  1  '         r  equence  has  long  also  been  *he  home  of 

the    d    riic  r  i  i  .<ic.i.g    industry.     Jews    flocked    to 
A:     'v^;   rn  long  ago,  because  of  Dutch  toleration 

;  .  ri.  >  v.  i    I    intolerance  was  the  system  of     v  r 

othf?r  coiiuivw  U  vrr^r]^  no  Si:^-rlock  In^inio'^'s 
nt-L'/Man' ^r.i.  tv»  identify  u  -nn^'.  '/.  h-n  \'ou  see  one; 
n  r  i^  iLe  occupation  of  a  diamuii  i  nif^rrhant  icc>^ 
.a:--     Ili:^   I:::  iIj.    ^.A  n.,..:''  d,  rareiv-t  la,    nail    of 


01,/' 


^ 

tf 
t 


i 


^ir> 


r^E    BUILDERS    OF    AMSTERDAM 


113 


the  little  finger,  with  which  it  is  found  most  con- 

veni^^iif  to  sort  diair^^nds  and  brilliants. 


it,ai :■'■*,:    oil 


)terdam  i 


n<.n    i'lixlrdv   peculiar    i*'   lU'  A 
ilAn'rvfit    from  most 


\'  ■  i  .  •  ■  >  Tl  t"      <  1  t  j  : 


V  x-rf  v^ 


^  I 


^./V  V  \^  v^m 


"VT 


latta 


for  it  L- 

islam]     ; 

tiie  >:n=  j^^   i^^repared   '*v 

piles.     lih;tt 

bv  the   w 


"\ 


Mit-iaiiUa.    11, 

t   smguiarly 
London,    i 

and    :Aaj\rel, 

^-         ,  ■■  1 


iicH'  til, 1,1  be 


._  1, 


t-  ^ 


V  J 


i      { 


» o 


■\  1  ■ 

at  i 


i-.n 


!■!  -  (A  -  J  a    twenty-five  feet  or 

iiVikiiiii  c^i  t!,i^^  place,  from  the 
esstaiaj'  Aa:  nerdani,  the  dan. 
whe  !i  n   a,  taxied  simply  ''  Th^    1 

centre  of  the  city's  life,  altho  ah      ^    ■     -      .!  ;  - 
hub. 

The  ant  is  the  wonder  of  the  insect  world  for  in- 
dustry ;  the  coral  insect,  or  worm,  i-  narvel  of 
thf  rropic  seas  in  its  slow,  patieiit  n  of 
reefs  ;  but  the  Dutchman,  who  is  i  an 
insect  u  a  worm,  rivals  them  in  his  a  .*  rable 
-t  a  iiastness.  Amid  surroundings  of  a 
character,  among  waters  and  mud  and  mds.  he  has 
cTr^iu_'d  llii5  very  pern: '?•■  ^  '  '  :  ,;  ^-.^dd,  "■  1 
^■^^-i  f^e,.-^A?an  jreat  city. 

le**  ui^aiiiiess  of  Amsterdam  is  reared  a.  n 
pda  pmg  and  merchandise  com  i  aith  tht   a*     : 


East  Indian  possessions. 


^w'      I   iJ.  '_   - 


hings 


1 


«4 

aceroed  t 


ON  THE  ROAD  IN  HOLLAND 


() 


!  ( 


counts  for  its  rise  from  a 


a^u 


i  '•  1 1  -^ 


t-a.r: 


I    !  i    '  >  !  ' 


■-  nteenth 
through 


tilt'   li'j\"ai    PtilucL 


Dalii    \^  iii    fv.i-i 


■f  ■  :    >  t 


fit' 


the 


1  t  J  ■  i_.  • 


1  I  i  U  i. ;  i 


U  :f  t 


i  • 


'\-:i!     Ik  ■  ibices 


r  ri 


tciriv  iiiipurraiu'e  of  di^  n\^  Iji 
UahV    atid    tfH,sc    coloiih 

'•     I  r     ■  i         '  - 

la    1  tjl^-aa,  /iii'i    ?'^-^  uii.t 

wa,»aL  la>iii-  B^a.,:paa'M-  ^ 

Ta,-    naaa^'ii^a    |artde    of    lia:    ta-, 

a  ad.  ra:a\-!  v-\vpa1thv  "na"^-"^-:  "R-pnblir.  nrri  UsO  .a'  ^L- 

!u*a'-'iiaat^aa\ra' urers  of  Amsterdana  in  those  far- 
liMQQeQQions  is  ai-- hin-nMl  iuudiy  .U!^  eni- 
a       a  t.rv  circumstance  withoin        -  .    * '  in, 


<       !    '   '  ■  I 


A.'  u    u  a  a* 

i  \    ;  i  J  '    ' 

youn^a 


1  !i      I  M,h], 


lA  ll  I  i 


a  i:imi.u  luwn  Hall,  un  which  wu: 


uxi  't  aii.icvi 


fci 


O" 

the  fa--;-a 


,n  000      Yet  surmounting  its  tower  is  the 
a  r-vane  of  a  merchant    a  a,  formeiiv 

'j:  tiia  i  av's  arms,  before  it  wa^  iW^n  the 
riaai  ^  assume  an  imperial  a  a  a  T  »  -tate  and 
inaar.ni'-'ai-r'  '■:  the  inLorior  are  such  ta.ir  this 
f  niat  r  i    vvr    Hail  and  residence  of  the  Burgemeester 


'.;!  Ui:-^    '.Mia    *  = 

An ■  ^-M  ta'i  i.na    "■  •  ^ a ' 
foraaun   parr-.     1  |:t 


tiia   richest   aiaiuna   Uia    li' 


'  i  '  .s 


h  her  sons    v  a      earlv  into 


on 


Ol'n;- 


tha  \vatan-.  tha  ua.i   fMiU  a   tuV\Li  .^'  .  i-O   10- 

^toren."  ijunt  in   14^2, 


n    :<   now 
a  .;    ai'i.ai 


I  +■   '  1 ' 


F' •■<  a  ^' 


L  Xx  V." 


^^1    ^~       :      v.,  ^^ 


VI 


"  W'ee^ui. 


X  u  a?  ui 


j> 


'•> 


M 


1 ;/  %, 


..&  n 


^^    -■  ..  >W  -  a       n  ^ 


^il^^a  *• .  Pits  kf  -  -  .     -l-Vu'  •^'   ~  vilHB  '  ^ ' -S'iP'''  I---; ■'  -^ 

w-^^^rt"X  a.,  .fe^^: ,  \.Jpiia«;*'-v^  ■, 


i^i 


■  _:-«""<ninvj, 


OLD    HOUSES   ON   THE   WATERLOO   PLEIN,    AMSTEEDAM. 


117 

hose  whom  their 
slow  and  painful 


.^.  k 


f  If  ^  rf^ 


where  tii-  ]ufr\  i,. 
sixteenth  and 


OLD  AMSTERDAM 

because  from  this  place  depar 
friends  expected,  in  tho  i  r  i 

\uv  au      In    er  to  see  again. 

found    awav    :;-!:.: 

ciilei    bU.--]Iii'-s  ,.irt 

iiiid    w  a  rehouses 
ceiiti.irir<  riit!  ufb  a  sheerly  from  th-    -Uu  w  .u-i 
canal  and  kam  ^L..^  a, a./  af.a  rhaa     ;    .  -..  f   ■•. . 
clearly  tliaii  ^a-.-where  Jij.-v  Aau,-.  .:..-,  .,  -  a 

P^'^^'    •'       '       •'  the  quamt  >aaaau  •■•   ICm 

in  '.-  ;  '    ^  .  f l:a,a  h,.'^  fUT  . 

lliliUiJititI:  t  a 

The  Qiieera- 

i. 

odd   prapiaa 

Il  !  na  a  i  u>; 


5 

^3 


.n 


'i 


-  la 


1 


-'^i'*^d  .houaas  sliowa  hov\aaver.  their 


a- 1 


'''■■<■'■*    i  i  Uiii    me    -^ 
^^  old  hnn^pv  on  th^ 


f 


.1 


li  \ 


iotice  a  kind  of  archite     .  .  _.     » 

ei^e   riiaii  iii   HnlIai,a.L 

"^^^^  iHatah  a  i  say,  and  shall  say  constantly 
m  ua  r  I  ages,  are  a  likeable  and  a  polite  people, 
pad  ta  please  ;  but  there  is  an  objectionable  leaven 
m  the  great  populous  cities.  That  is  the  uav  a 
populous  and  great  and  crowded.     A   la  aa 

a     purposely  pushed    a  3 

-e    a.^a  la  the  side.     Just  one   of 


<a 


■•r\{' 


fja 

T  a  ■' 

a  a 

]  !  •  i 

a  »■ 

,\  :  ■ 

! 

.  ^  ' 

* ' 

It  * 

«T'"---r>     -' 


roelstra,   the   Socialist 


*  « -  w  .i.  ^  a  -* 


as  elsewhere,  ma} 


ialist  Party  in 
^     expected 


ii8 


ON  THE  ROAD  IN  HOLLAND 


to  npprnve  :  the  hatred  of  the  neckcloth  for  the  linen 

;     r       1!      ever,   I   observe  that  the  recent    ur>t 

result  01   .vu--ii  obtaining  the  vote  in  Hollaii   lias 

beer:  tL^'  r«"'^ir!i  to  pow^^r  of  a  Conservnn\r  tiM\>rii- 


1.  i  . 


I  lie 


fellow  a  backhander  uhich  knocked 

, ::  ;   .      I       II    took  it  lamb-like,  although  a  ^--e 
po^ t  r  t  ii  man.  an  i  picked  up  his  cap  and  disappeared. 

\    p       eman    la    on,    impassive,    r-mni-p     non- 

C  U  i  1  a ! .  ^  I  L  ci  i  » 


XIV 


Everyone  who  travels  for  curiosity  in  Holland 
is  u^pected  to  go  to  Zaandam,  because  ti  hut 
occupied  by  the  ship-building  Czar,  Peter  the  Uieat, 
is  there.  It  matters  nothing  that  he  occupied  it 
only  a  week.  ,bt;iitiment  has  made  ii  perhaps  the 
greatest  popular  shrine  in  the  Netherlands.  This 
is  a  giccit  thing  in  a  land  so  unsentimental. 

It  is  far  easier  to  come  to  Zaandam  by  water  than 
by  road.  In  anv  case,  you  will  have  to  cross  from 
j{rr>:zff.T^nm  I  \  iuxry  to  the  opposite  shore  of  the 
Y  ;  ana  a  u  a^  ne  far  happier  on  a  steamer  vi^h 
a  bicycle  than  un  those  roads  with  it ;  and  will  get 
there  sooner,  too.  Zaandam  is  on  the  river  Zaan. 
It  is  la  a  a.ciitly  the  place  of  windmills.  Tn  one 
-!  ^        i   ..,...a,^-^  np  to  two  "^-i-^l^p^  of  them  and 


i 


I 


ZAANDAM 


119 


^  I  i^.  i  I 


left  off  only  because  I  grew  tired  ;  not  because  there 
'^^^'-vr  n->  move  windn^ill^.  1  will  swear  to  the  tratai 
ni  tha  h  ore  any  commissioner,  if  you  like;  but 
!  \u>\)o  yijii  will  take  my  word  for  the  truth  of  it. 
because  tal  ing  an  oath  before  a  commissu 
such  tiaws  now  costs  two  shillings,  in  place  of  the 
TTiodpqf  one  ^'  before  the  war  "  ;  that  landmark  in 
time  and  in  costs  and  charges. 

The  '' Ozaar  leLci  iluisje ''  is  not  difficult  to  be 
found,  in  fact,  it  would  be  difficult  not  to  be 
herded  to  it  by  the  swarm  of  idlers,  begs^ars,  and 
self-appointed  guides,  who  assume  that  ]a>  ii 
can  possibly  come  to  Zaandam  for  any  otL  a  raj 
Aa  L  after  all  what  do  yon  see  ?  Just  a  it  tip  hut, 
\  ah  windows  not  unlike  those  in  the  stern  of  a 
^iiip  at  that  period,  1697,  when  that  amateur  ship- 
wright wa-  here  :  th'>  flooring  in  billows,  the  sea 
itself.  The  humble  little  hut  is  encased  within  an 
iron  fan!  Ung,  to  preserve  it.  That  was  the  pious 
work  (''  pious  "  in  the  Chinese  sense  of  ancestor- 
worship),  of  Anna  Pawlowna,  the  Russian  Grand 
T>  a-'hess,  wifp  of  William  the  Second,  King  of  Holland, 
nearly  a  century  ago. 

Twenty-five  cents,  the  standard  price  of  a  cup 
of  coffee,  of  entrance  to  a  church  or  to  anything 
ei:.c,  see  you  into  that  "  huisje,"  not  without  a 
dubbeltje  or  so  to  the  importunate  who  unneces- 
sarily show  you  the  way. 

And  so.  leaving  the  red  roofs  of  Zaandam  and  the 
green-pamted   houses— when    they  are  not  painted 


120 


red — awav 

WHICH]  i']]?. 


or 


ON  THE  ROAD  IN  HOLLAND 

fr         those    whirring    and    beckoning 
?  :iM     WV-izaand     Znandvl-.    to  Krom- 
Tla-     1-      V. :   ,\     t^;-    Dutch    '-:i]i     ''  H.-linn^-i 

!^.ll^t."      Thai     1:3    "at    ll^>    naliuUc-l 

a  famous  definition 


V      •     '   U  i  i   i      »  *  »    '     '  I    ■    4. 


;t    region  may  1^^^  most 


KASTEEL  ASSUMBUEG. 


1  V       .'if 


of  network  as  ''  holes  surrounded  by  string."    It 

ju  ui  canals,  lakes  and  watery  polders 

apparently  at  hazard,  by  dykes  and 

Is.     The  country  being  like  that, 

it  =^eein^  to  a  >T!aa:o^  infinitely  rash  to  have  cut  two 

^    i^    -1  in    aii al        -      Xord-Zee  Kanaal,   and  the 

]S   (  r  i    H    :  H  loei.    Kanaal,  through    it;    but   the 

I)  itris    a    v     ,n  peoples,  have  the  technique  for  that 


I       tc.-'i'^t  ^ 


1    .i      t  _.,V.-.'V-"-i  i 


1 


I  found  myself,  rather  than  purposefully  r 

tt    Heem^kerk.   and  came  upon   a 


121 


V,  ,;  V 


iilu'-tv  ii  romanticaii\  -•!•  - 


it.     I  wns  ti 

this  ri^iuaiitii 

F^'iiHi   ■?ii  I  i   iv 


f'.n  ■' 


a  m_'.iU     l^.ii.  ■  *•  • 
[.■■  ^-as  Kasteel  A.,-- 
!   came  upon  a 

.in.    whose    oaiiu 
way    of    pateiit-iiieiiiriii' 


I.  .J.  1 1  >  > .. '  I  i .. 


--^  ill  Hals 


\\,{itj  had  annexed  Holland]    '' 


;•  h 


a^-.l 

m 

}  ' 

It 

-  -f 
'  -) 

I 


\\':  1  >■  <  1 . 


wuie   iaa.! 


Russian  force  landed 
iag   aimlessly   among    "a-    •  -^ 

a  1  V  the  French  at  >  - 

a    It*   take  again   ta      .  :  ^ 

ose  behalf  this  expedition  hao 
cautiously  looked  on  and  did  nothing. 

V\ V  cannot  now  verv  well  lose  our  way  to  Alkmaar 
as  la  a   lid  the  Russians,  for  the  road  is  well  sign- 

11  e  name  of  Alkmaar  means  "  all  sea."    It  is 
i     V  an  appropriate  name,  but  was  originally 

even  n.iore  ?o.     To-day  it  is  the  scene  ^*t  *  * 
iiairket    in  Holland.     Friday  is   n 

:•■'"    \  =a.i  I. a     a   a-^     rh;,r-a  .  .    aiglxt 
:  a  Frid^ 


-■1- 


•{'r-> 


ff^  ...■!*  -f-     f- 


TIT 


ordeiiv  fa:'a|.i^^  ce^  !;-.=-f  round 
cheeses,  aa^-'  -v::e  ie.vai  a  prnje 
coloured  unc^)  lou  ,  uriaiigc>i  *•'•  -■ 
in   white   linen   suits ;   lo( 


p  1  1  ...  -..  L    •  t      *     , 

I,  1  .i    .    f  \  ,  i :  4 


U  ,' 


J 


122 

South 

( )  I   t  i : :  ■ 

(IT,  >  ■  ;  " 


ON  THE  ROAD  IN  HOLLAND 

\*^  erican  or  other  tropical  planters.     Most 
)         .        1  selling  takes  place  in  front  of  the 


\\' 


t-^U. 


t- '-        I 

L  1 1  ■ ,,      1 

.here. 
was 

\  '' . , 


i  1 


one    u. 


11     ,1: 


the    iiiUbl    eiaUuraie 
s  the  impression  f]:^": 
['  'n  II. a::.',  business  a  religion  ;  nini  ii  l-  nui  .=u 
:  *L    Hi  Ilk.  oither  ;  and  especially  appropriate 
i    I    that  impressive  and  beautiful  building 
'riih.dlv  a   r^hurch  ;  the  Church  of  the   H     y 
It  ceased  to  be  so  in  15^^    •   iie  year-   ni.  r 
^  ;ii 'laiile    and    c>uccessful    iiuioic    defe^^cu    ui 
t  that  siege  by  tl     ^!  k    /hich, 

r  i  Hi  the  place  be   ^  j    .    ^    v  nui 
have  m/^an^  pv^rv  throat  being  cut.     The  Spani^^^s 

I  ;?  f  !  uiised  as  much;  to  outdo  u  horrors  uf 
flii  fii.  I)  !  1  loderic  had  written  to  Philip  of 
^  •  :  I  1  take  Alkmaar,  I  am  resolved  not  to 
leave  a  :iUigle  creature  alive  ;  the  knife  shall  be 
])  :t   h;  every  throat  !  " 

Scarcelv  the  way  to  bring  about  a  surrender! 
A  i  A  naar  fought  accordingly  with  a  desperation 
u     ■  elsewhere  in  history;   men,   women  and 

children.  The  defence  was  conducted  with  the 
usual  I  :  turesque  aid  of  molten  lead,  boiling  water 
and  lime  ;  with  the  highly  original  addition  of  hoops 
soaked  in  tar,  set  alight  and  flung  among  the  assault- 
ing parties  so  that,  with  necks  encircled   ly  these 

II  ry  gudies  the  bpamsh  soldiery  were  almost  burnt 
I   v-  ;  an  application  of  the  S      aards'  own  medicine 

auto-da-fe,  ironically  apposite.     The 


t,  iV 


'..  c x<-  > 


M.'  i,i-  * 


ii    '. 


1  then  came  the 


it  of  the 


TO  THE  ZUIDER  ZEE 


123 


dykes  being  cut  and  the  country  inundated.  The 
besiegers  withdrew  and  Alkmaar  was  saved.  In 
modern  times  a  statue  of  ''  Alcmaria  Victrix  "  h  s 

Ih  i  n  r  um  1,  lu  celebrate  this  event. 

We  thus  see  that  th  r  '         I  a  church  into 

a  wii-^hdiouse,  soon  after  that  siegi ,  va  n  thing 
symlndic  of  Alkmaar's  liberation.  The  iuit\  luwer 
was  adilt  I   m.   1599.     Tinkling  tuL  '!i 


■* '  J 


aiiti 
bacd^ 


■  ;  1         5  i 


o 


un  the  clock  sends  forth 


5  i 


iiurse- 


who  conduct  a  mediaeval  tourney. 


XV 


From  Amsterdam  the  foreigner  in  Holland  is  sup- 
port i  V  Dutch  satirists  at  once  to  make  his  way  to 
Voleii  iui  This  reflection  is  very  pleasing  to  the 
a  vera -a    Dutchman,  who  believes  neither  in  Volen- 


dam.  M 


..K 


/-\  y-\  <--!  o  TTV"^ 


VI 


Edam,  nor  the  island  oi  M  i.en. 
i  will  lint  i\,::,:  IT  niai.  you;  by  the  ''foreigner" 
U:  -itiirnine  Duichman  really  means  the  English- 
n  aiL  who  is  attracted  by  the  quaint  old-world  cos- 
tumes of  the  fishermen  and  their  families  in  those 

'*^^  — ^ -^  'He,  or  in,  the  Zuider  Zee.    Dutch  people 

perceive  there,  but  in  the  season  chiefly 

have   convinced   themselves  that   the 

i    continue    tt     da        themselves    m    thtir 

.s  trousers,  queer  jackets,  and  fur  caps 

ey  like  it    not  because  other  people  do. 

a  -  are  better  worth  looking  at  than  are 


V>r 


124 


ON  THE  ROAD  IN  HOLLAND 


the 


.r 


^  hant   Jews   of   Amsterdam,    who 


i   ,  .f 


Uy-ir   -t=H>v  \i.-irHA.h'   ijii    luj\r 


in   :-van'Li   (ji   iii^-   pj;-ur^ 


[iO^/tat  I'Jh. 


.n    ih 


Du 


!    '        ■   ,    ? 


pf'T^^'n-.  but  'lo  hot  ap|H;,ir  t^.  ihak'-  .1,  f^'ti-'i  -i^'  Vwi-luf*:! 

^•-^  1  ''^'il!  n^„'r.  n-  an  Mmrh-hman.  n?-:--]  an  explorer 

ii'''j'^-'-ai.,i!n,. '•Vf/r.  L.'x-  I'.o.,:;;.  visi,  also  i<>  \ oieii  .  .     . 

But    ii^j'^v    tu    L!-'    u.-r"  ?     TfH'    ah^wrr   15:    u/:.     , 
birviip,    a^r^^^    rha    \'.    hv   :X'-n!r- !Vrrv,   and   ** 
-IX  null-  \^v  rnaji,      !■; 
^leciiiu-r.     1  hi'-D:  .;[>■  - 


:.*'    '-'•  i:-'   '    ^  '  ilil^L'    : 


I'. 


^ib 


on  I 


^  ■! 


pv-raJ  1  imes  a 

t'^^'-a;-^    ' '■■    ^1 ;.;- ^.a,a  la,:      Vi:-Xaa    Volcil- 
dam    and    the    L^aih,]    =a    \iari'aUi  ,    and    tilra    .u^    w-H 

-A-  f"r  tfia  road,  ...  free  puWic-servicc  ^lis^Lr-UMry 

Vlh^>  batwaan  th"  ^^a"^'.la  ■•■^'  ;'ka^  -a::a/  ,t^"  A  r  i,^  ^  r-i^bxa 
iiFai  ti-f  oppn-ita  ^ta:)re0l   'aa    V.  a.    \M\.^  a  u,^-  t\.,,:i  o, 

Moriria-'k^raiarii  .a-^  fnar;=b  A  f  \-;:..  .b  ca  a'.tiiiaiitctf 
beer-^araaii  alai  Ua^V  r^^ -.nxxru  '  "ViTiooks  ti:?-  w-at-r 
a^ri   ill':   furthf-r  aiajlu,  IlOii;   IL-^  n;.!  b'^a'aU-,^  Of  ial-^:an 

H"'i-' :  a.rai  inan  ♦b  .t  vantage-pomt  ,\n!:-n--iam 
i  •   >   br:b:.ai.nt   inii^'*  d. 

li      b^q  Qaid  nt  n  e  abon  *^  a^ -    road  for  five  or 

six  iiiiaa-^  i'li  ti.a  \k .,     *-  M •  a.]! a  r. M- lam  the  bc^n-r". 

ft    1-   a,    kifa.i   ';!    lii.iA    laa^  .ibaJii.    abni^rsido    iJa;    N(U"'"h 

ff'Ailaiai  ,4ap  a'aiaib  'fa.,  macadarii  -i-av-^  jku  j- 
l--j'    im[a„»r^?d     ii.tu    lj-iai,nd.     ndv^r    -rr  b-r    na-va;r 

jjTopprh-  papr,  faaaai^-n-b  >  a-^  .^j,^.'  Ma-V'  Ja^X-  '^^-^  X,:.e 
llaa-t     har'     \X', 


X    d  out  again.^Fort 


L4»*U,  i-U. 


•^ 


MONNICKENDAM 


125 


provement  happens  before  you  come  by  the  tree- 
shaded  I'd:  .     vtr\   ^■\i'iTiiniiiz.,  X;  '  \^    noble  church- 
lb   i       lies    away 

.  X   \ .':].:  J.  ^-  a  I  neat- 
a(-uDtix\     ijai    ahead 


tower    uf    H' 
to  the  Icdl      - 
ness   and    -  ^ 

istbatdeaa     : 


baaJr    laa 


>  '  •       V  T  ,  ..  .  '  J, .       ;  /     , 

n.,td    Xhpr    ' 
A  . .     a  a    =     . ; ,  ■ 
Mi'fiL'-aa  !     1 
id  '-\'  i'^.  1:  '  : 

!  d^.  i.  : 
the  XX.     : 

J     « ia  [■'■>j  V      f 
hu:    1   ..  ■  ■ 

I  '  ..;-   -  a: 

ata'bx'X:  .  ? 
ciaeauaiaj,,. 
baX 

H     ar 

I;.,:,  • 


t-X  u,  I 


ill'      X 

X  . 


5 


/. 


.  I    .    .  '  t„  t. 


;'  •  '  < .  r 


a . 


/b'-a  M^aXa^  ixai- 

•-  bariiiiux.  X;.,   x 
.-.a     X.  \t  a-'    • 

il  -:■'     X.I-     :  ;  t- 


,^4 


this,  because 


na X'"i    If.  a. 


v\-  ^  o    a 


ow,  nor 

'                                                                       • 

4        s 

'  *    ■*  b         * 

a  '^\aa  _   aa  ■ 

' 

"  -^  said  ^0 

.  ..       ■  .•  f-XX 

JIU-^' 


^l 


>  ■   I 


'-a..i  .a: 
axX.iXi 


i  i 


% 

-,\, 


126 


ON  THE  ROAD  IN  HOLLAND 


Si,  1  !  f '  h      , 


n    1 


IV  be  of   -oTTi-o   ^n   t!io   t-ommunity. 

till'  \j^'"K<>'\h'''':-  h:ird  b}-  rh-  Madliuis. 
Quite  ;i  wt;n.->trM'l:fii  iK)*)!<<t':k*F''^.  a?  also  is  a  lafii^T 
one  and  vnnXvV'^  nl  ivlenn  wincb  ]yri'>vnUv  wi-  --Udb' 


S  t  ■»  r^ 


Mv  Dwxrh   ireeeiN  r* 


■'•aJi: 


M  I' 


eu'_  ..v.:;'_ij.'_i 

,r-rnr  size  in  ixn 


lariieiv   a 
tuai'i-  1  tui'i  .1  u'^ 
towns  uf  ^^'Ouai  ^e 
not  ai;-:e  >v*:t  tii"  nK*^  <  e  i  hj^ui. 
I  :  ••   /.  .   n  .    o---   i  ■en.>'>    l.iie 

•"     '        *         r      .  *    •     . 
<1  i        ^      ' 


i  i<i,  i. 


1 1.  1  i  ■    t  VI 


HolLi!i-i    18 


rj;  onlv  very  ii-iiV;." 
^^;.  <e'  die  v-:n'-;: 


or.  vdiU.:h  jh.:uui^ 


i    ■'    1     .    :      * 


I    i     V  11 


\l'i  >: 


Ore  and  a  canan 


^■^    i: I    L  -..i  Lm  L 


.  1  1  '1 


Tht'i'e  always 
is  a  police- 
man who  Ifj'jks  in  hi-  milino'v  ^urt  of  unifumi  an-! 
rovMra  :e{e   i  -^diev.      W eat  is  wanteu  ue-h  ee  :oee^' 


1  e  ^u  'i- 
o 


pulieetaa!i 
on   inuiiirv 

1 


3i 


I       i    V   1    i 


Ot 


t  ;  ,■ 


■=  *  '■ 


D'  >  t, 


e 


f-    I    ; 


lo 


C 


now 


■      2    ■ 


titndnri.     a|iftli«ei.     vetii     ae-     nnnf'(/»'--arv     aluav     of 
la  V'li'x  a'' I   ijoX'f  de  f.^cvcp  :  vi 


n  f  ■ 


v'.  i  ■-.-  '..  I . 


pa: 


L.'  1  .  "■      '-J    » 


V  -.  f  '  j    "^ 


'er     uubiuLae^^ 


\  t  .  r 


Tne  ri<'ii,„  fjark    ii;a-:5ei  ui  tree-  nuie  au^ 
the    e^iibci!ikmen,t-    looking    upon    the 


d  there  on 

convey 


eejM.'    Ui    i  j  ail: i 


e  \  f  e 


Ti 


1  iiere.  acr*">s:-  tie'  : 
of   Mafketi.    With 


^  uiteanUii,  IS 


t-  f  '■  ■  ■ 


*'    i"^ii: 


L   4,  i,.  \..  ^    '■  -A.  ■ 


"'•Ti*  ■   '    '    V. 


^.nsr-., VM  •f^.:."'a'       0-1"  5  1        '. 

';a-^  -  \  ^  ^  Y  Jo .     'a  ^^uA  ?  i^^^,    ■  U  i. 

r-f  ^d$^^a:  ■  .    t^rucaz^  Co: 


K-- 


r^-:^a  ,::{.<-^5;-^.  ■ 


?:/V^'^-W1j;j  ^>.< 


Of    r  '^  ■OTi';^■.^•..^-^^:=^- 
f  '  i  r;  ?;ii. i-..0  R  ' ■    ■  - ■,>•■ .  S      Tfl r^f^iO'ei  ^ 


f     '^  ft       Of       /  I  .«  '-K  '^ "  "^  .^ 


Sri  U-^IKX^^ 


THE  WAAG    AND   STADHUIS,   MONNICKENDAM. 


f^3 


DUTCH  WINDOW^SHUTTERS  129 

literally ' '  fire-tower. "  It  is  a  curious  name,  employed 
in  Holland  ;  showing,  as  our  English  word  ''  light- 
house '  does  not,  a  direct  unaltered  descent  from 
those  olden  days  when  lightiiua^co  m  taa    xlubited 

not  actually  lights,  but  co^H  an  I  oiiiti  iui -. 
On  the  noble  and  picturesque  tower  ui  ui^  -t  i^ 
■^  f^nJIt-  ill  i:]in,  and  the  chief  out. landing  feature 
U  tmckendam,  there  is  a  clo  k  which  provides 
ii  .ir.  times  a  day  all  the  excitements  of  a  tourna- 
ment, with  none  of  its  dangers.  Like  ti  i  irmy 
displayed  by  the  cathedral  clock  at  Welk,  the 
knights  come  clashing  out  and  dashing  in;  but 
here  it  is  an  open-air  show,  and  done  to  music. 
The  Waag,  or  weigh-house,  that  ini  \  irable  feature 


11 


CU 


and  is 


\\  t 


U   :il 


1     '^■•"iLiJ 


dmgs, 

c^  cue  pro- 
Iip't-  lower 


:  a  1  i 


of  a   Uvit.'h  town,  is  just  below  this 

uM     xrqaionally  fine  buildino^  amon^ 

Like  all  others,  and  indeed,  k      laost  u 

f  i^>iic  or  private,  in  Holland,  i       windi 

external  wooden  shutters,  ao  i 

tters  painted  to  look  roughly  like  curtains 

tied  back  at  the  middle.    At  least,  that  would  seem 

tu  have  been  the  original  motive,  but  it  has  h     ■  the 

practice  so  long  that  it  has  become  a  convenuun, 

and  is  now  so  little  imitative  that  the  original  idea 

might   almost   l.e   overlooked.     TIa  se   shutters  are 

invariably  painted  in  two  colours.     Sot,  as  a  rule, 

tulniias  chosen  by  individual  taste  and  fancy,  but 

select r  I    from  the   chief  tinctures   in   the   heraldic 

coat-of-arms  of  the  town  or  tb^  -p-.^n  to  whom  th^ 

^'  i!  iiiig  belongs. 


130 


ON  THE  ROAD  IN  HOLLAND 


The  road  out  of  ii.nnickendam  soon  becomes  a 

■■    !        ,       ,  .-,r.r,fl  rr^r^.r}  n<?  to  suiface,  and  of 

""  !.    winds     ;   i    -^  -'^  along  beneath 

ti^.,  M:-i^*'^  nf  the  grassy  dykeb  Uiai  kei'p  the  sea 
fr!   ,    tf.^    I    i  1-        :    1     ^he  cows  graze.     The  dykes 

so  high  that  they  complet  ly 
of  the  sea. 


]  rr^r  o^ain  ai'^  ni^ii 


'-■J  ut.  L  L",  - 


A; 


;  i  > 


WUL^i' 


i;V 


VOLENDAM. 

aiur   inaKing   twice   the   distance   that 
cover   1   1  V  a  straight  road,   this  luuie 
lendam.     luu  enter  this  fishing  village 

r  '   r   leading  to  fh-  top  c  t  tl-   dvke 
1,.  I:   b-comes  broad,  a>  ^^• 


\  ( ) 


I 


t"  ♦,.?•'! 


S       i    1    . 


i  the  chief,  and 


OlllV, 


;i.     Ui 


I 


t  I 


the 
-  i.  ttly  laid  from  ei  '  -   ■  r.l  v  i'li  brick. 
■TO  h  no  other  place  lu  li-..uu.a  u^x:  Volen- 


VO  LEND  AM 


131 


dam.     It  is  not,  like  other  places,  completely  brick- 
bLiih:  and  indeed  almost  the  only  completely  brick 

building  is  Spaand  1     H   i  ^  ul  :  1,  i.  i      rendezvous 

(A  ih.v  a,rJi.^t:>  of  ever}-   L<innTi'i!^^T  wla...  ilock  here. 
'i'^^^-^^-  i^^  ^--^  -^^  -1-  choice  biH  >p..:..h-;s.     It  is  indeed 

lie  uiiO  prescribes  that  the   hsherfolk  shall  contii 
^^    ^''--    '  -       quai  ii    uld-world   costumes,    which, 
ii^  '^  Lf  inj-  the  ilTo^9  cf  the  men,  at  any  rate,  are  easily 
^^^^    ^^  '  ^    :  ^  e   in   Holland.    But,   while   it 

^■^     ^-■^'     bu    leadily  lindersto-ni  that  if  those  wpird 
P'^^nn  T;^.  d  to  be  won     ^p.iander  m  ::  :  just  as 

wt  ii  ri  (  iis  hotel,  in  the  prospect  that  ai  u  v  ild 
^*  i  'i:^  r  (oriit  It  \  )lendam,  I  cannot  believe  O} 
tnese  stuid\  I  !  :  len  would  so  submit  to  dictation 
as  to  what  ii.uj  are  to  wear.  The  truth  of  it  all 
"^"^^^'^  -  ie  between  the  fact  that  they  like  their 
a  icient  wavs  and  find  those  bas^s^v  breeches  com- 
i  rrahle  aiiu  their  coloun  a  u  I  t  pleasing  to  them- 
selves, and  that  they  find  sitting  ti  ui  tists,  on  account 
of  them,  profitable. 

Thvve  is  a  considerable  fishing-fleet  to  be  seen 

-1    '^         a   rn  harbour  at  week-ends;  it  is  a  very 

'  '  a         ^  X  wlyn  in  Cornwall. 

,  so  unlike.     Ta    high  dyke  runs  the 

•y.:h  VL   ;...    village   and  the  little  houses  cower 

uov  n  on  either  side,  fr.-    ha  seaward  side  of  the  dyke 

does  not,  for  the  most  part,  give  directly  upon  the 

)     ■  ^      '         3  re  tiny  houses,  often  built  of  wood- 

iruia  ^veather-boaxded,    in   two  floors;    the 


1^2 


ON  THE  ROAD  IN  HOLLAND 


0,  or  .  r.tered  bv  a  wooden  bridge,  level  with 


,,^  f...  5^  = 


be,  i 


■  f  ■  X  i^_* 


T.  acordion.     I  a 


«.         'v-  O 


LEND  AM   FISHERMAN. 


J  r'i 


I  n  '    i  1 


o''      \'< 


the  wu.; 


r  •  i      t 


U^c    d^.VKj. 


iL'rA::i.  i.i  may 
rv  huuse  fcei'UiS 
J.^,.,_-,;|v  fond 
:  n  but 
1  am  pleaseH  U)  ap- 
pose that  n  \  ri- 
dammers,    su    partial 

to  it,  h.:^"--  --■  '"^^ 

masse  y^; t   ai  :  ed 

thci  '   is  such  a  tliing 
as  a  gramophone. 


T' 


1. 


•IV 


m 


all 


highly  -  civilised    and 

^M.itnrp,!  t .  '-munities, 

n  in  \-  uieiess  specta- 
I  u    I    aiiimal    in   the 

T.,  ^tt...-  r.^  r:=>niOS.  He 
L,.hi,t--  i.imself  in  n^n  - 
ment^:  ui.a 'icun'i 
of  cut  an  i     1 


iG 


and 


sniuc)     ux 


, ,  i. 


I     ' 


Im 


» 


a      (.InUjZfitl 


li  1 


■\  n- 


n in   ^^  u*/ i  * ■ 
!nntter>   "'"d"  \ 


women      to 
airibow    and 

i  1:^1     i>     nut 


!  n, T      J- inli  o 

an.d     line- 
V.U    a    like 


'"^ 


I 


THOSE  TROUSERS 


133 


?  T'l. 


jack 
pinls 


i   i    -  4    L 


nn  i  >  ^ 


sun 


d,  double-breasted,  tightly-buttoned  waist* 
n  his  jacket  with  the  open  lapels,  in  a  light 
n  nal,  he  will  so  have  it.  whether  he  be  a 
of  eighteen  years,  mr  a  venerable  person  of 
mJ  no  one  will  scoff,  or  object,  ii  even  be 
5-  i  The  only  persons  who  object  to  those 
jackets  are  the  artists,  and  they  only  when 
inkuts  are  new.  The  painters  like  the  pink 
tty]  n  d  worn.  The  fishermen  in  the  course 
of  lonor  years  have  come  to  understand,  even  thouc^h 
tliey  d  m  t  sympathise,  with  that ;  and  they  reserve 
their  new  and  more  vivid  gear  for  other  than  artistic 
occasions. 

Not  that  pink  is  their  only  wear.  Blue  is  favoured  ; 
and  a  very  reserved  taste  will  even  condescend 
tM  black,  in  a  gaily-striped  shirt  will  perhaps 
neutralise  the  black,  and  great  silver  buttons  will 
enrich  it  more  than  they  can  the  gay  hues.  And 
generally  a  gold  clasp  will  fasten  the  collar. 

The  tiofhtness  of  the  jacket  is  completely  at  variance 
^'^'^i  f^"  r  H my  character  of  the  trousers.  T n  ket 
^i  ^  u-^r:i~.,-r^..  are  tight  at  the  waist,  but  the  pleats 
i^  '  ne  waistband  expand  at  once  to  a  sort  of  world- 
vvi  In  roominess.  No  Volendam  fisherman's  leg- 
garments  bag  at  tL^  .  lees.  It  would  be  unthinkable, 
nay,  nn|)nssible.  That  chief  anxiety  of  the  well- 
'J^^'---^l  man  in  towns  does  not  furrow  their  brows. 
The  only  person  who  ever  visited  Vol  n 
the  object  of  inducing  the  shopkeepers  ^ 


line  of  trouser-stretchers  was  a 


1:1  with 

/  stock  a 

sent  there 


134 

oil  ^i 

The 


W 


au 


tli^ 


ON  THE  ROAD  IN  HOLLAND 

:  A         '  )ors-erT  i    1  by  a  heartless  wag. 

.f./^rtuiiaif^  man,  6uui.!-j  luu^e  n^irn.^^;,' ■-,  u-^^nncd 
of  sacks,  and  then  conn-^-  i    ni-H^, 

Volendam  fishermen  w.  ir  these 
divirlod  si  Its  {  Because 
they  are  lni-:i''v  :i.-...;,.r,d-.1 

from  the  lu^^i^^j  ^  rnents 
that  sailors  evn  iiave 
worn,  i  .  y  wore  them, 
as  these  ponple  in  now, 
because    w  t   with 

sea-watci  oi  i- -  they 
do  not  cling  to  the  leg, 
and  because  they  give 
the  utmost  frccauiii  of 
movement.  Even  so,  the 
sailors  of  the  navy  wear 
clothes,  which,  if  not  now 
quite  so  expansive,  are 
i  I  very  wide,  and  wider  as 

L  I  they  go   lower,    so    that 

'^  they   may   be   rolled  up 

^^  to      the      knees.       The 
..^  Volendam  garments  differ 
A  LITTLE  BOY  OF  VOLENDAM.      jj^  dctail  from  thcm,  for 
they  contract  somewhat  at  the  ankles. 

The  tall  fur  cap  often,  but  not  exclusively,  worn, 
completes  this  olden  costume,  which  may  be  noted, 
exactly  the  same,  in  the  seventeenth-century  pamt- 
ings    of    Dut^h    artists.    No    wonder,    then,    that 


THE  GIRLS'  DRESSES 


135 


V 


t^«ft^^>^^ 


painters  continue  to  flock  into  Volendam  in  summer  ; 
or  that,  this  being  so,  the  men  and  the  children  of 
the  place,  and  the  women  too,  have  become  some- 
what qualified  in  the  course  of  this  artistic  traflSLC 
of  i»  many  years  past.  They  see  themselves  as 
art! St >  models,  equally  as  fisherfolk  ;  and  the  casual 
visitor  will  find  himself  quietly  appraised  in  these 
categories :  as  a  mere  explorer  for  curiosity,  who 
is  no  use  to  them,  unless  indeed  he  may  be  induced 
to  take  a  boat  to  Marken  ;  as  a  photographer,  whom 
they  rather  dislike  because  the  snap-shotting  camera- 
man can  secretly  take  pictures  of  them  without 
their  knowing  or  being  paid  for  it ;  or  as  an  artist, 
valuable  to  them  as  one  who  is  expected  to  pay 
for  sittings.  They  are  too  well  used  to  artists  and 
photographers  to  be  either  amused  or  embarrassed 
when  photographed  or  sketched  ;  and  indeed  they 
not  infrequently  fall  into  poses,  from  sheer  force  of 
habit  when  such  strangers  appear.  The  children 
are  like  that,  too,  and  are  generally  in  their  dress  like 
little  men  and  women,  except  that  the  little  girls 
are  more  gaily  dressed  than  their  mothers  ;  their 
clothes,  the  tight  little  bodice  and  the  full  skirt 
reaching  to  the  ankles,  are  those  rather  of  women 
in  little,  than  those  of  children.  Their  brightly- 
coloured  and  elaborately-flowered  old  chintzes  and 
cretonnes  appeared,  in  the  passing  world-wide  fashion 
for  those  materials  in  1921  to  indicate  that  Volendam 
and  especially  Marken,  where  they  are  much  more 
worn,   were    aping    the  modes  of  the  day  which 


136 


ON  THE  ROAD  IN  HOLLAND 


T 


-1-    4-1. 


g-^s  of  that  season  look  like  the  purloiners 
of    the    loosi  rs    of    their    mothers'    furniture. 


I.)  u  I 


til 


ill 


■  r    w 


lag^'Fs  that   -(^t  i 
inaf-fiaL-.      '1  i..^'    iK  *  -.. 
loti£r  hciir.  are  brpoc!-^'! 


ihu  liiiiu  boys  ujj  to  seven 
a  I  like  that;  and  so,  if 

iAi'^,  it  w  a-   ai   ..     t  nse  these  vil- 
fn>l;ir.ri,    Tinf  in  nil    but  in  dress- 
!  *vs,   m   lb  hucal  skirts  and 

bt.-r  t  l;i'ir  -t'\-.an  h  binliday, 
but  uLUl  rb*=n  'ana  -  .a^  i*-  iat  ritihed  as  boys  only 
bv  the  !  at^  li  uii  liic  cap,  which  the  girls'  caps 
hav^  ica.  [  suppose  the  caj-  sometimes  iia^  ex- 
char  a   !  ,    L  it    I   do  nut  know  what  is  then  dune 


i    i! 


1   - 


1 


fh 


HA    fair 


\! 


Tif    n 


?> 


r,r 


'X^^^' 


t  X  '  ^ 


i  tL' 

f  a  .■ 


cirnua: 
centaj 


'endam  had  better  at  once  take 

sailor  to  convey  him  to  Marken.     It 

Hi       !  t  of  bother;  and,  besides,  not  to 

ra    aa  an    would    be   unreasonable.     Not 

a     r      Mr!  a  a  was  looked  upon  as  cer- 

ira  u-  and  interesting  place,  well  worth 

I  a-^h  anngerou"  ton      The  one  thousand 

b     live  there  were  savage  exclusives 

bai   commerce  with  the  outer  world, 

a      a     ad  the  hay  grown  on  the  island, 

U  .  \    1  a\c  no  use,  as  they  do  not  keep 

tu  purchase  in  return,  sheer  necessaries. 

,  and  ail     there  is  no  mystery  about  it, 

^  ha^  ^'f  en  made  one — descendants  of  tliose 

!  risians  who  dwelt  in  the  land  which  was 

b    tin   irniption  of  the  sea  in  the  thirteenth 

a  i  they  remained  in  their  isolation  very 


r( 


MARKEN 


^37 


averse   from  contact  with   the   modern  world,   so 
near  and  yet  practically  so   far  removed.    Dark 


A  LITTLE  GIRL  OF  MARKEN. 


tales  of  rash  people  who  landed  on  that  isle  being 
wurvpfl  off  it  were  current.    The  islanders  were  not 


138 


ON  THE  ROAD  IN  HOLLAND 


like  the  equally  savage  and  uncultivated  people  of 
tl      industrial   districts  in   Staffordshire  a   century 

>,  wiM  used  r.i  .^aA"  :  ''li-ie's  a  stranger;  iciuc 

im  :  hf^  IV.   liili   :  hrink  at  his  li^arf  "     They  did  not 

V   hr    k      fM     luse  a  brick  is  rather  j   precious 

lH  ' ^i\  M..iVi:>.  n  .tiid  nui  tu  uc  vva^icd.     iU'r'i^^-  'here 


pave  the  i  ^      r 

iiu::^    aliU.    iliuLiJ 


Li 


ifrequent  r  *•  s  that  lead  to  the 
-  uh  which  the  houses  were  built 
rina]]v  f  r  security  against  those  times  when  -lie 
1  Zt  e  should  inundate  the  islan.  i  ,  ..  frequent 
1  ;;:■?•.  (Strangers  were  thT-t  a*  m  |  with  being 
I ::  :  !  *  the  sea  ;  which  was  a  practical  method, 
an  i  ::  1  ixui  \va^)te  material.  That  was  not  fn  rhaps 
r  niuch  ill-will  as  an  exhibition  of  the  old  s-  ly 
In-i  ij  .:  I  lai  ience;  but  it  did  not  make  a  visit 
to  Mr  por-ukr.  We  shall,  later  on,  visit  Fries- 
land,  v:  rt  I  i  eople  are  yet  independent  in  manner, 
and  ^poak  a  language  of  their  own,  Friesch  ;  bui  I 
hasten  to  add  that  they  do  not  offer  you  personal 
viuiuiiuu,  ah  i  aiu  indeed  quite  well-disposed.  I 
thought  this  ought  to  be  mentioned. 

Ti  that  is  all  a  thing  of  the  past.  The  people  of 
31  k^n  to-day  wolcome  the  stranger.  T^f^v  knnw 
thev  a'  picturesque  ;  and  they  know,  too,  that 
pit un-n i^^ness  is  to-day  an  asset  out  ui  which 
F  *  amg  is  to  be  made.  And  they  make  it.  There 
i^,  y^uL  by  year,  a  constant  succession  of  tourists 
who  come  to  Marken  and  fall  in  love  witn  o  *'^ 
old  1 1  .  les  of  every  sort  which  have  been  heirlooms, 
^r^  -nphisticated  folk  would  have  you  hc^'p^e, 


f  i> 


THE  MARKEN  FOLK 


139 


for  centuries,  and  yet  were  made  the  year  before 
it'  Hi  some  industrial  centre  and  sold  to  the  islanders 
lu  !  ir,r  rh  purpose  of  catchmg  the  simple  stranger. 
With  tt  ii  m  her  eyes  some  island  woman  will 
sell  some  alleged  long-cl  li  h  i  f  urio  ;  and  on 
your  next  visii  Viyu  ir;  -ee  the  exact  like  of  it,  to 
be  sold,  with  similar  tears. 

Dutch  people  are  singularly  touchy  about  Marken 
and  Vui  a  lam  and  their  customs  and  costumes. 
Indeed,  aia  nt  old-world  Dutch  costumes  r^j'n  cus- 
t  !a>  in  general.  A  11  ander — a  typical  one — 
v>-iii  (I  passionately  declare  that  his  court r\  i  at 
tia  i  u  1  a  quaint  and  curious  land  it  is,  Thar  i  e 
traveller  who  has  been  elsewhere,  but  never  ii.uia, 
will  have  some  wild  sort  of  an  idea  that  all  these 
things  ara  iiyths,  invented  by  artists;  or,  it  no 
\(  rv  least  ru  lu,  that  the  queer  costumes  are  only 
stage-properties,  so  to  say,  just  as  are  the  old  Welsh 
femininr  t  ues  to-day,  worn  ai  faiicy-fairs,  or 
rei  ha  •  1  on  picture-postcards,  but  not  really 
used  n  \s  .  lays. 

"Rnt  in  :  nothing  of  the  sort.  The  country  regions 
<  Holland  are  yet  rich  in  all  this  sort  of  thing.  It 
i::  iiuUiing  of  which  to  be  ashamed  ;  bui  lather  to  be 
proud  of ;  and  it  is  not  readily  to  be  understood 
\vh\  re  should  be  this  fierce  denial  or  t^ai  a.-ich 
e\  ry  tourist  ran  see  to  be  yet  plentifully  existent. 
The  reason  may  be  that  the  typical  Hollander  is  a 
very  up-to-date  business  sort  of  person  ;  well  educated 
and  resentful  of  any  implication  that  all  Dutch  folk 


140 


ON  THE  ROAD  IN  HOLLAND 


-xpense 


wLu  throng  tiiere. 


dress  in  thn-n  rM  wnrH  ways.  No-one,  I  think, 
t^-r  ujj  -ted  so  much  ^^  n  is  hurt,  all  the 
::aii\v.  lie  carjii<'t  denv  \;  ,  ..  ^  ^r  V..;-:i^ianL  and 
-  '  !  ?  M  ads  him  to 
ui  tiic  \'i^iLur 

The  houses  of  Marken  are  all  of  wood.  The  church 
a:  1  the  pastorat  are  the  only  buildings  of  stone, 
and  there  is  ^  at  one  tree  on  the  island,  an  anaemic 
h  t'  :\  The  wooden  houses  are  as  tri^e  as  the 
piupiu,  ioi:  they  are  largely  built  on  piles  ^  i  in 
some  cases  overhang  the  water,  with  ramshackle 
outside  balconies.  A  Marken  mf)n  may  indeed 
nii^^v  :^^"1e  the  island,  but  a  Marken  girl,  it  is 
said,  never. 

Ail  are  fair-complexioned,  with  -  r  iw-coloured 
hair,  and  mostly  with  piercing  blue  eyes.  You  can 
identify  a  man  oi  JUi  i.en  anywhere,  by  his  costume  ; 
very  like  the  11  -eton  dress  ;  consisting  of  a  flat  wide- 
^  I  i  iO  i  Lai,  light  jacket  and  cnurmously  baggy 
breeches.  N""^  the  ''  divided-skirt  "  trousers  of  the 
\  endam  ii*  a,  but  breeches  to  the  knees  showing 
the  stockings  from  knees  downwards.  The  colour 
"  'heir  dress  is  generally  a  sombre  black,  or  brown. 
Tiiu  wuiiiuii  iuiin  a  complete  contrast  and  uc  like 
^^^^  ^  :  :  1  plumage.  A  richly-flowered  cretonne- 
i  ;■.  rial  is  the  chief  note  of  it;  the  whole  sur- 
mounted by  a  lofty  headdress  which  often  appears 
to  consist  of  a  tube  of  cardboard  covered  with  the 
same  suri  ui  material,  or  varied  with  lace  and  em- 
1)^  idery.     There  are  compromises  with  this  archi- 


F  AS  HI  ON  IN  HAIR 


141 


mandrite  kind  of  headgear,  ranging  down  to  a  mere 
cup  ,  but  all  the  women,  from  girls  to  grandmothers, 
wear  their  hair  in  the  same  fashion  ;  a  straight- 
down  fringe  over  the  forehead  and  a  great  rope  of 

hnir    t  ominG"    down    in    front,    over   tlio    shoulders, 

n  J  er  side.     The  old  dames,  who  no  longer  possess 

lie  giuat  ropes  of  hair  do  by  no  means  abandon  this 


FISHERMEN  S   HOUSES,   MARKEN. 

iinnniiable  Marken  fashion.  They  employ  silk  in- 
stead; u  i  they  look  extremely  giddy  old  dears, 
vill  hurt  a  Hollander's  feelings  to  say  it, 
i:  ci  trustee  for  truth  I  cannot  help  recording 
ilutt  p-pular  excursions  by  steamer  from 
->  r>n  just  as  well  patronised  I  \  the  A  fl- 
iers as  the}  are  by  my  own  countrymen ; 
a  ae  ^o,  because,  after  all,  not  so  verv  many 
holiday-makers  travel  to  Holland;  and  it 


Luu. 

but,  1 

the  f 


\ 


142 


ON  THE  ROAD  IN  HOLLAND 


surely   would    in    i  i      tlie   si-  tu  f     d    i     j  aetors 

tu  I  if.  :   r  ';  handful.     -No;  M.  rken  is  just 

Ti<  uuu  h    Li    r-i-.'f-biiow   for   the   Lt^hvuiitiunally-clad 

hnt,  '^  (  >  ^,^u  ,;■:  )*■  '<  ^^-  f]:^  :.U',:''  ii^T.     S( .^Tuetimes, 
■ ...:...:.,,. u.^        i    without 

fr,    cppl-    if  -    wTinn    thi 


ill 


r-. 


!  iiomn 


X'^'  i  .'\ 


.^■!,S 


I? 


>i  (^ 


tiie 

xIk-it  -lothes  to  Id-i  a   ir'-'irn^,  or  more. 

.  sses  are,  in  fcU;t.  t 


^.if   t'iiov   romp    Hi 
r  a>  h  that,  bein 

dltj^so     tLuy     iiavt^ 


( ■( 


V       UiiUx'j.:^. 


»  '  f' 


bi   1  L  ries.     So,  in 

I     sn     aiii!Tji\"     ikHlcif' 


x%      V 


ery 

-I  elaborate  nnd 
!  V  "le  the  HoJ- 
hat   '  tumic-opera 


'  J 


J,  often  thev  are.     For  what 


co>Tunies  '   are  j:*-    ^■ 

iu   LUitume  of  com       ^   i*    b  t  the 
'      i  :     ^  dresses  of  other  countries  ? 


15     gi:I 


reprouu  ^ 

A  "i"  t  J .  »"<   '1  a 
Vanta'anil. 


i 


Wf 


1  ' 

J.  ; 


r  J  ::  iiess  is  only  the  unusual  and  iincon- 
ji  tije  convontioTinl  r!r<"'=^s  of  cities  were 
.a.'  fdaa./  of  the  old  costumes.  a,r,^l  ^iii-  poaitiim 

U:-     raVeI^^M.     iha*-     wmi]r|     bu     ioiiUd     comic 

aiai  ugly  an    V  11. 


\  i 


riiijcn 


XVI 


li  more  than  two  miles  from  Vr  - 


is 


Edaria  bv  tia-  *JaaaiiLc  ui  iiecirh-  a  mile  leaessed  from 
tfa    Zia  br  Zee,  along  a  quiet,  tree-shaded  canal, 


EDAM  ON  THE  Y 


143 


bordered  with  lawns ;  one  of  the  sweetest  and  most 
charming  scenes  in  this  country  where  there  are 

liaiiv  scenes  of  beauty. 

lb  'canal"  is  the  river  Y,  from  which  Edam 
lauk  xu  name,  originally  spelt  ''  Ydam."  W  hy  it 
has  been  changed,  in  the  course  of  time,  while 
u.^:  1  !  dees  give  a  name  to  Ymuiden,  so  spelt,  is  a 
{alia  J.  X  bevond  the  competence  of  the  stranger  to 

Wia  n  we  find  a  canal  in  Holland  that  is  not 
a  canal,  but  a  river,  we  do  not  know  the  difference, 
because  the  Dutch  have  such  a  way  with  them 
^^  bar  it  comes  to  water  that  by  the  time  they  have 
quite  finished  with  a  river  there  is  nothing  in  the 
least  wild  or  untamed,  or  even  amiably  vagrant 
about  it.  So  we  have  to  accept  the  word  of  the  guide- 
book via  h  it  tells  us  that  any  formal-looking  water- 
way is  a  river.  Thus  to  work  upon  Nature  is  a 
neces^HV  f  the  country;  for  to  leave  a  river  in 
lb  a  a  i  lu  itself  would  be  to  have  all  the  sur- 
'        -  ^  soon  under  water,  and  the  river  itself 


€k 


Because  it  is  really  a  river,  I  suppose,  is  the  reason 

for  the  canal  at  Edam  being  so  deep  and  so  broad 

and  ai  Ijcautiful.    Now  and  then  a  little  steamer 

to  the  town  along  it.     Quite  a  pretty  and 

^^ng  scene.    Someone   on   deck   blows   a 

iit        and  lip  go  the  two  leaves  of  the  "  ophaal " 

^   to  let  it  through  ;  the  process  beingr  repeated 

ijtiiei  bridges  on  the  way. 


A 


)' 


144 

In 


ON  r//£  i^O^I>  IN  HOLLAND 

n  ^-  tho  ceiiLie  of  the  little  town  ui  five 
Hhar      rits;    one-sixth    its    former    size. 

I,..    DaM.    11'. lu.,   ^ivd   Lixerc,   tmm,  a  queer, 
i    hrid:j\'    a', TOSS    wln^'^^li    the    brick-paved 

nri  Wo"'n   u.  ■!''-" '"^.   i'-'i    n:''ri'  ai'i*  mm  IS. 

ourse,    i  ill     i    i   1    •!     cheeses,  the 


U.  •!      ■-i. 


r  T 


!  ■  1 


roiiiid,    Tvi-i 
familiar 

in,! Hi  A:f\ 


wh 


Oi>C      t 


,ioU 


Li-lake    is 


■  r  1 


f ' 


. !  i 


veilow  ones  come 

iMi'M'M;  i:^  an*  a. -rely 


•t  • 


..I--  i' 


won]:,  lialf  a  la  I 


i  1m:  iu     i^     ii     «- 

wher^^  wapl:  r.i 

J      .    '  ,     •     '^    ^    !     ^  »    ^    '^  f    •  M  >   !      i    . 

cheeses  tiath  ara 

iii^:i"a   tt ra   TlR'   t|Licliiita.': 


se-m.iri^-;-    ^^li    !'n^ia'>--    at 


neiy. 


1 

idi-j 


'•1 


r>-  i  i  1  ti  I  r 


iittlp    ?ru 
(aa.niry-, 
are   Iniiia 
If   u    h- 
open,    i!i 

*  I 

in    'Wa-i-Ja 

praal 

'i'nrui 

WaV  iii! 


^  n 


includii  a    I    ^hap^    n'^^''^'    laiam 
1    a  {       Iii ;  for  Alkmaar  lo  the 

an  i  the  cleanest  and  the 

-  ,  haifain"^  ^n'^  lior^pa  nloriii  tho  waterway 
r^.fh-    -tM      Oa'a:    *  a''\-    tj'\,ir    an-restrng 

>.t;-r-..;i     M^-''     *  aaal^    ul     lLc    ^ij\  vaitLMiith 

l-'  ■--■■»••■*       ^    ' 

Jhn  a!  i  there,  1  at  ween  these  houses, 
a,>  auciu  Li^u  round  tneeses  are  stoia  u 
aa  a  '^^^  wiudows  wiU  Very  likely  be 
\  I  can  see  the  cheeses  stacked  away 
i   rack?,   with  the  greatest  of  order   and 


1    <j    iiiUizen   a        ouiiarwoude   goes  the 
Ira   the  little  town  and  harbour  nestling 

Um  -ht .  ered  bight. 
^a  <  aa   a  ill  feel  mclincd  to  satire  of  ih^  Kr>-li^hman 


1 1 


(6 
O 
O 

• 

H 

O 

o 


■.V 


d 


HOORN 


147 


who  from  Volendam  and  Edam  proceeds  to  visit 
Hoorn,  that  charming  town  of  some  11,000  inhabi- 
taiii>  [hut  it  looks  larger),  also  seated  on  the  Zuider 
Zee.  When  in  ic.ic  William  Schouten,  a  native  of 
this  town  and  port,  discovered  a  passage  round 
the  ni .  I  M)utherly  point  of  South  America  he  named 
it,  after  his  native  town,  "  Cape  Hoorn  "  ;  but  in 
the  modern  spelling  few  ever  suspect  that  origin 
ni  the  name.  Looking  at  the  map,  it  is  generally 
thought  that  it  is  descriptive  of  the  horn-like  pro- 
jection of  the  cape  itself.  But,  curiously  enough, 
IT  tin  seems  to  have  derived  its  own  name  from  the 
horn-cliaped  curve  of  its  harbour-mole. 

Frr  m  the  sea,  under  any  aspect  of  light,  Hoorn 
looks  as  romantic  as  any  city  of  dreams  ;  its  towers 
and  spires  rising  so  delicately  and  gracefully.     There 
in  the  foreground  is  the  Water  Gate,  its  high-pitched 
roof  and  slender  spire  less  rollicking  and  rumbus- 
tious than   the   usual   fantastic  imaginings  of  the 
old  Dutch  architects.     Nor  at  close  quarters  does 
Hoorn  disappoint  you.     Its  streets  are  full  of  queer 
gables    with    delicately-rendered    details    and    with 
old  shop^  still  carrying  on  the  same  kind  of  business 
they  were  engaged  in  three  hundred  years  ago.     You 
may  see  that  it  is  so  by  the  odd  httle  carved  stone 
tablets  over  those  shops  ;  over,  for  instance,  the  little 
cheese-sI  c  I    ;  ictured   on  page  149.     By  that  sculp- 
tured V  (I  k  you  perceive  that  even  in  the  seventeenth 
century  they  were  interested   in    cheeses.      Crow- 
stM  I   u  ^ui,  as  the  Scottish  say,  ''  coibie-stepped  '') 


X 


148 


t   1 


r» 


f  r\    i  r- 


ON  THE  ROAD  IN  HOLLAND 


or  uHernatively,  steeply  -  pitched  roofs 
ith  great  red  pantiles,  form  the  most 
!  -tic  sky-lines  in  Hoorn,  as  the  illustration 
of  the  l.'-^  Cheese  Shop"  sufficipnt1v-^v.  V,  .;s^ 
ch.,,..  t  .  you;  while  the  shop-fronts  commonly  are 
exrreii,  !v  lofty  in  proportion  to  their  width,  and  in 


_|3B«ap!«>*"-t«-- 


MARKET  PLACE,   HOORN. 

relation  to  the  rest  of  the  building.     Here  is  colour 

i   -  th    r      iter  and  curious  outline  for  the  draii  ;    s- 
man  :    t   - -i^ci   with    abounding    interest   for  J  | 
^v      -    wir)  is  content  merely  to  observe  aiiu    hi, 
ari  used,  Willi  never  a  thought  for  transferring  his 
I  ,    V  !'( r  -    !-  ^  impressions  to  canvas  or  to  paper, 


ROOMIJS 


149 


as  an  artist,  or  by  way  of  writing.     The  old  weigh- 
liou  u  in  the  Market  Square  is  also  a  fine  feature. 

All  over  Hoorn,  in  shop-windows  and  in  those  of 
what  look  like  private  houses,  you  see  the  word 


<^<fl  »n»  k  h 


THE   LITTLE   CHEESE   SHOP,   KOORN. 


room."    Sometimes     it    is    what    seems    to    be 

'  roomvs  "  ;  but  on  closer  inspection  it  is  seen  to 

be  '  10  imijs."    This  appears   to  the  stranger  who 

b^s  no  Dutch  to  be  like  a  vast  Hoorn  hospitality ; 


15© 


ON  THE  ROAD  IN  HOLLAND 


aP 


in   this  picturesque  town 

V    i  TTiurmnr  to  yourself 


*■     *  V     ! 


idy  an 


( J 


.  V  Iiymn  :■ 


m,  all   ^ 


>->     /  f  f^ 


m. 


>j 


J;  ;^  it  is  not  accommodation  ^'r  +h-  -+ranger  antl  th^^ 


I  p  p  c      ^>> , 

"  d  -::r.es 

I ' ..  a-,  I  !■  vt  > 


I  i 


:    y    11/   offering, 

:-  Oi  r:a""^',:  |)laces  an'  -a  1 

or    ]iiiU:--h=  ^1'-.,     \vL,Ma 

Inii^."'     U..ay,    if   yuu   i 

aecessurv,   fo    lie     ua 

haia^ta    the     -■"■'*      -  ■■    ■■ 

th^  r''--:T-r|;,  "hr^ 


ream- 


iV'/"i     w, 


aiilk,   it  is 


v\    '•   >  \    '   I 


seek 


J) 


hy  the  go'- 

iru   leave  ti^a^ 

rare    iii    I, i-n.iii 


'!Avay   a 


n 


n>r,inthe*'k-rk  *' t-p  ^M'prr:ike 
i    t^   1  !'  iitify  the  ^      ;aists'  shops 

[[.'■'  \v:n':^»\v  :   ia,^    u.e  chemist-  'In 

t/iia.a-.^        T:;a*     -h-'a'St's    shop     1- 

\^iueh  does  not  a^^jjiay  uXll  its 
;  "  A]]  the  '"gapers"  honr  a 
^i:ry  strong  likeness  to  one  another.  The}  aiv;  the 
turbaned  head  of  n  ^Toor,  wi  i -ly  upening  his  mouth, 
as  though  ready  for  pill  or  potion. 

But  the  most  eminently-desirable  and  delightful 
of  these  old  towns  is  Enkhuizen.  Charming  as  it  is 
iium  any  side,  I  love  best  to  come  to  it  by  steamer 
the  other  shore.     Crossing  the  thirteen  miles 


fr 


of  the 

1 C  •  t  "^ ''    H 
VOu     a'. 


"/ 
/. 


z. 


■a 


from  Sta.a-  !i. 


:il 


)lace  in  1 1 


t  1^ 


O 


i  .  f       I  i 


^:i  ;a)ur,   a<   la*  = 
i  r',-' nance,  bu  ijuaint  and  ajvely 


if 


t 

2? 

OS 

p 

a 

o 

Q 

5 

S 
S 

(4 

n 


a 


V 


<l  ! 


it    tJ 


II 


19 


ENKHUIZEN 


153 


There  rise  the  great  Droinmedaris  Tower  and  water- 


1       V  r- 


.i   I,'  li 


1 


iiem 


n." 


gate  against  the  sky,  with  the  beautiful  tower 
i  I  ia>.  the  Zuiderkerke,  in  the  background. 
nro  almost  sure  to  hear  the  sweet  carillons  of 
across  the  water,  for  they  play  not  mer  I^ 
1  .r.  it  shorter  snatches  at  the  quarters. 
cf  L^  Droinmedaris  Tower  are  the  most  beaut  J 
ill  11  jUaiiJ  ;  or  almost  the  most  beautiful,  Lt  us 
say,  in  fear  of  reproof  and  in  case  some  reader 
has  an  affection  for  others.  I  know  not  wl  u  !.. 
]  lii  airs  they  play,  in  their  thin,  tinkling  eliimes, 
IK  t  Hi  like  the  performances  of  musical- boxes  ; 
In^  :!  .  \  bring  romance  and  sentiment,  aiil  a  tca- 
t   r  I'S-old  beauty  into  this  striving  era. 

The  guide-books  will  tell  you  that  Enkhuizen  is 
iiffprly  decayed,  that  grass  grows  in  its  streets, 
cO  i  that  now  not  a  single  fishing-smack  enters  its 
li  ill'  11.  That  is  very  odd;  for  no  grass  grows 
in  those  well-kept  streets  ;  and  urely  I  was  not 
liii  tal.Lii  in  fancying  I  saw  manv  fishing-smacks 
and  other  vessels  in  that  harbour.  Als«  "  -  U  i 
fint  !i  1  a  busy  railway  harbour-station  ui  £uk- 
huizen  ;  and  at  my  hotel  there  were  commercial 
travellers.  Such  as  they  do  not  pay  visits  u  lead 
tu\\ ns.  But  once  upon  a  time  Enkhuizen  wn^  murh 
larger.  The  Enkhuizeners  have,  however,  put  ti 
historic  fact  away  back  in  the  lumber-room  of  their 
minds.  They  realise  that  they  are  living  not  m  a 
town  of  40,000  inhabitants,  as  once  this  was ;  but 
iii  uiie  ui  5    uo.     But  at  the  same  time  they  know 


i     ^, 


154 


ON  THE  ROAD  IN  HOLLAND 


tha-^    the   fi^-ire   o!"   ^jion   '^   creeping  up  towards 


9,Oori.     In 


.  t  •      5   '        ,i  -^ 


rirn-i)t»rini->  HI  its  unlet 


»»    ^l    V         ,      I  i  i  i  ^  4       i,iiV    i    >.        !+,.'..  »    \     i    ,,       i  J,  •       •»        •'cli.ii\-~      Clji'.i.      -.l      J  i  i  ll,       I,..,'-.     1     1  I  U 


i   i.  .i.   i    ■'   i. 


.) 


1 1' 


ui.;ii 


^f  nWi'k 


It  !      J 


,  tt. 


diw.rr-  lor      uinccj     iii-lea-i  of 


^^M'  tia^  iiii-t_'  remain'!- a  aatp>  of  tlli^,  iaaa/'-furtiii-d 

av  t!iL'  li.i'v^'iL.  'jVvf  aaii^'h,  rhr  aTi'ai  1  )r<"!niai','iLi!-is 
Insvtyr  >o  i^aatuiv-qM.-; V  pr.-'-{'i<-.  tais  ia-t-aaiaied 
""■  "•       '  ■■■■'•    ■-     '54a  ;   ar-aiaim:  :{<  it  (hn^s 

'aaMT      nja       l)Aln]U"-rn<il'^ui 


1 


T  I  *  .'  *"    * 


1 


ri  f  i  t ! 


-    -hiraena.    ti. 
na     ti-'  arau  a 


-  :  ,  1 
i  '   4 


I-    '..i-  A       -  t.  i  i 


o  -  ' 

» ;  i-  .i       t' ,    •  I '  r  ■  I   I  ■• '  n  r       ^  t 


1  I        i :  .ry 


'^il  ♦■  \v  :i 


i  a  1  i  *  a   ra  t  > 


.---i  iraiirf-; 


j^  * 


1/ 


'-../  1.  J    J  1  i  ti  ,!  i.  '  .i  .  /„  '       !   i 


'C 


,11  lii^ 

a  i  n  s-> 


t1  .,  !  ,    i 
111         '    1 


.«Ji.O, 


Tiiu 


b*'a\a*^an    ^p'^p 


•n    in    i.'»7:;,    who!i    Aimir::! 


B.--i 


>^It,i  \ 


V  t 


a..r 


tfni 


(.  ..  t  K  I 


■n*':-    av    th.-    r.-.-^.'a.'i     Maauiiiiitai.      Tia'V 
in    prison    ^i.r--'    \''^ir-.     Thev    have    his 

-^■^'in    .a.     la^uiii,    iii5    swuid    <a     f'a.-a.aiZ'ai, 


U.  t' 


it .  ;  -  1 


\ 


nnickendam. 


W I  ERIN  GEN  ISLAND 


155 


XVII 


There  is  a  kind  of  comedy  or  comic-opera  island, 

an   imitati-a    ^t     H  lena  north  of  Enkhuizen.      ft 
is  that     iat       island    not    far    from    The    Helder, 


aj>t 


idur  i6ee,  in  a  '•• 


ill 


which 


has  seei 


■.  J 


aa.M 


'laaa 


NeiliuiiaiiJs  government  to  intern  tiu:  foriii'/r 
Crown  Prince.  T  am  not  greatly  con- 
>  know  if  my  term  "inteia  *  is  the 
n  whir^h  political  jurists  wuuid  |;h.ra?e 
iia  sort  of  residence  ;  the  effect  is  a  a  lae  -  iaa3, 
li  Jiali'i'o  th'/  pbraseolo-y  ii,atv  possilaa  a-:  iKAAnvixJAiv 
ai  X  ir       Xi   any  rate,  there  the  ex-Crown    Praae 

four  years  or  so:   and   aii}uiic   ahu 

kid    \YipHngen  island   aa!'   not  suppose   lam 

.1  choice.     There,  however,  ii  .a 


iM/iOi 


A.  i     \)( 


V  4»  J.,  o 


TL 


a  a-   s-     ,.       semam. 

The  Dutch  are  not  keenly  interested  in  this  guest 
111  ira.     In  fact,  they  are  not  iiiiuiciitrii   at   all. 


lor-m 


an 


I  asa 


*  I'    , 


sura 


ai  I  o 


'T 


led  mildly  amused  at  the  idea  of  anyone 

curious  to  see  him  and  his  place  of  retire- 

a   i   proposed  to  go  there.     Tt  is  easier  to 

V\  lermgen  by  boat  from  Amsterdam  than 

this  remote  place  along  the  rua  I-     f  the 

peninsula  ;  and  the  good  folk  u\   i^nkJaazai 

ii  ^h  town  I  purposed  to  set  forth  jii  a  bic)  uie 

1  \\  1a  riiigen  Island  were  in  fact,  not  quite 

^^     a      ^        htjao  by  that  method,  or  what 


T   "'"  r  -. 


+■ 


f  -    T  {"\  ■') 


CN  THE  ROAD  IN  HOLLAND 
:   like.    It  seem -I  to  them  a  tremendous 


-,   i,  .  i  I.   .   i  •  1 


A-  a  iiiat^pr  of  fact,  it  is  thirty-five  miles  from 

Enkhuiz-ii  t^..  i'^v/-ijks]nis  (pioiiuuiiccd  "  i-.v'ii.-ltjUiC  ''), 

u  Uw'  m::n^Kind  :     tia.t  inliiiite-injal 
V  *        ike  the  post-i  a  u\ 


T  i]-}f    1 1  ri  \'   \a  h  ' . .  M^'i 

L  J  i  1 1,  t       I,  1  i-  i    *         V    A  1  i  1, ..  „  • 


port   iV'jm   \vi,i 


i  a  *  a> 


wiJah    iQ    abuut    t 


*   !  i 


(  iJ  ^■ 


T; 


r,.  ,■■■.  ; «      t  r,' 


a  r> 


r ' 

.1    V 


Mnkhiiizoii  bcgiL 
ease   and   smoof '^ 


,  I 


\\  lia  a  ,    ^ai*/    !,  ; 
but     Wa/'fi     li*^- 

1      /  ..  i  »,■»■. 

H»  ■  '■'  n  -  ►  i  -  a ,  f'; 

i.    /   V      I   I  1    i    L   A     I     ^    '   J    I 

\\    i  f .  r  •  »  ,  •  f,  ■  f-t.i, 

T  (  .    *  r  f  ^    •  a  .■  a 


a  t 


those  Ja  a  L^pa 

vy   g^oori  :    iai- 

ar^*  ex 


'SS, 


i  l-)..l>  l'~ 


a  a  i  I 


\ ' ,   i        T  M  1  i  r  i  -J 

•    ',-'  i  i  1  J  i  V   ..J 

^^^pacKjllS 
aaii     tia,^ 

1  luiiciUd 
a  vais  ii'nnl 
a'  was  fj:id, 
iraHMi  repair, 


f  I '  * '  <  ^  1 


liiiUUgh     liua 

>•    '    ',..'-!T'^''-!ia 


'''  '^,*  T"!  , 


w 


Waik^ 


4.    i     -.i     .  I 


J  i.i. 


I 


p'/Pa.a-  r  >M. 


Ivvijksluis.       ]     a' 
a  a  e  inhabited  1  v  a 

!■    iO  a  suri  ul  ia'aiaa 
in  a   ao-Hin-a-  adaOSt  wholly  COanniU-d 

Kcfunnt-J    Lnurfdi  ;    that   Lutheran ■    \ 

Prnte.^tan^   faith.      Xnf    '-'-■  >,   -fh-   nar^ 

taad^i     fail    to    note     tnat      la; 

r  ui'  n  :  liccause,  very  oddlv. 


'/,^7^ 


i  ;   aUi 


^  •  u  ^>  i  a  i 


i  \  • .  •  1  i  i  ah  1  i , 

^'dall'i)^, 

d,  (it  li  rila"' 

on^adia* 

:.-   Dutah 

4  "^^   ?  s 


'.  I  i 


!  iia 


^f^T' 


a  L  la  a^- 


r  •   '  M 


.a.ia    .li-ai 


I  a  . .  ■ 


P* 


I  a 


H  .  r  /  a 


i   (  I-  •  -««,         ! 


t  t  - 


.11  I  '.,  IX'.  ti-1  .i 


iiouse- 


n  amazin.  V 


i.     aii' a  r->t,T  V  aial 
L*  - 

^oarlr  a!l  the 
afucaa^    and 


ccmisey 


*     i       I      a     '     f    ! 


EWIJKSLUIS 


157 


and  licnv  on  high  dykes  above  the  Zuider  Zee,  and 

t  iian  aloD;:  r  ads  below  it.     After  passing  the  scattered 

villas  01  \\"i'a-.a  ^erwaard,  where  a  kind  ui  ga!\Jara 
giihiiili  ha:y  sprung  up  in  these  remotenesses,  near 
the  radwav  station,  you  come  past  Tweeweg  to  tiiat 

verv    laiiad (i    of  the   picturesque  in  scenena   the 

levels  (d  ifia  .\a^n  raT\aa-'e  ra.i  aj...^a--  •  .  •  i 
lands   liara.ed    a'ua'   a   former    Queer  d        .   a    a 

Russian  (araiai  haalieoi,  wife  of  Wilhaa.  -. 
ea.r]}*  m  the  ameteenth  century. 

It  IS  bait    treeless  country  at  Ewijksluis,  and* the 
hijjh  dvk(^-  -dat  rait  from  it  e\'en  a  vaew  of  th 
A  duzaii   h^.,aa-r-h   tiie  sluice,  and  nn  a'ai   ■^L.vl 


e  aea. 


behiial  the  ti\  k' 


1    1 


iirassv  (.navt;. 


I  i: 


I  i       '"^  t_'  ^ 


tiV 


ivadikslui^. 
\  leringen  Isi 
aresque  :  for  it  a 


^  % 


a  a"'  -''f  1  ar 


tower 


listance   tda-  aspect  of  woudhind>.  arai  ihe 

hurch   rises    stiikiraiv    from 


t    \\ 


>>  LaleiialiL,-  C 


thfaii.  The  -aa  b  ra-'"^^"T^-]y  shallow.,  aad  iI^q  laivig- 
able  ahaufad  i>  ia^auaja  '.nil  iav  Imes  of  stakes^  eiested 
with  usier  laadtats, 

Arii\ed  at  Ewijksluis,  there  is  nothing  to  do  but 
to  stare  f  \ar  towards  that  view  of  the  island,  or 
td-M  ^o  to  the  inn.  It  is  a  simple  place  :  the  natural 
repeal:  of  ad  who  wait  the  arrival  and  e..  jwoture 
of  ttie  Df^atdHaat.  No  need  to  in.aiure  ^'oheii  at  has 
antivaih  for  loc  w.;]  :v.a^  inevitably  comes  in  for  his 
little  drrip. 


The    postdwat^   is   about  the   size   of  a 


I    »■,■->  TV',  r- 

J.       k  ,  •<  :   .».  <.    -.  V. 


s 


steam-tuit,     .w<..a:  \wr^^  larae.      It  makes  fat  tLa  ui.o 


c 


I 


158 


ON  THE  ROAD  IN  HOLLAND 


little  port.   W  ]f^rin:i>ii  lI.!jh<M;",  with  its  long  stone 

and  iuuIh-v  pu-r-  ^.-.p  rnt:  u^ual  Lull^^I  ul  Uici^ls  of 
^cliiii'-  lUi'l  -tn-r  n-p;-i:  vessels,  ^n  the  ^j'-.^v, 
arn-n^   ti.i(>   u;-iiai   qud}--iae  groups,   a  iJuiic-i.^.H;.    a 

g^..»r  ire  oils     ;;ppnt[ip]o     ip     lilj'h'^-'W-O'     njld     ^ih'f^'r,     or.p     f.f 


the    four    pnii-.-    Mh    *::.^    i-.o-l,    dV.,ui-    tl:-    .irro,'al 
of  tliO  b'OO.  takf-.  pnNO'  .•h-J'O''-  ^ 

and  e>enrt.-  hnn.   i  ^:,.il-  ar-d  a    ^: 


'    •  lio  fri'^^'Uil  :MO\t.no^'T 


tor  of    til.,  idaixd,  a'  I  i 


ir?0"a  0  a-i:ui 


vV  i     rtlNOEN   HARBOUR. 


viilag'V.      dht:  i.atO'r-  <o^*'   O^ubleriand.   wh^yn^  tti-  •ja- 

Crown.     iOMrajO    live-,     \\'t'.-0,a  avai    and    ^■h:\rv, 

li  vua  have  a  [•■i-aeoT,  all  is  well  at  thn  Baria- 
nlee^Tia;  -, 

'"  You  Lai  nodincr  to  do  with  dei  Ivn  oii  Prinz  ?  " 
he  a>k-  you  in  thr  a  v  words  o'  Fiiglish  at  his  com- 
mand :  aijd,  eHonj  -;ui?fied  that  you  haw^  na  political 
miasion,  }av.i  too  JaUi  uond-day,  and  lenvinn-  liHii 
and  departing  (run,,,,   'ue  polite  naiiaiii...n,  luueli  to 


THE  ISLANDERS 


159 


4-:, 


f  •  '  f  .,^  ;  , 


-;  1  J  f  > , 


tlie  disappeanrrra-ep-   o'  a   i:r(-'i']}  'd  a,:..  .<:-.•  ^.   ,-^ 
tatafs,    hauikt-d    =  a'    a,ny    seii:5aliun.;n    ^ia\eOf  aanfa,  r  ^^ 
heek   an    hnt'oL     Ta.ia'     '-   ^mt  one,   the   J)^^    llaan  ; 

.'  :  but,   like   na..sr   oLua^s 

01)0  =  r-fi.i  tf     a|>piian(,'eS3 

ipiu.'ao     it    has   even   a    k,..-_aAne 


*    1 «  '  i 


sanide.  <:iaao..  ■ 
\n  li(.)!larit,k  p^ 
anti    ok''  T  !'a  a ,  ■■" 

pK'tlir^"^-ahe.wo 

WuTjnoen  I  da  lai  I-  very  soon  seen  to  be  n  region 

eoniinuiadai'a  m  taa  extreme.     There  n>  no  romance 

abioit  it.     Idle  village-   a^e  not  preitv,  nor  d^i  the 

viliagera  wf-ar  <]uaint  K-i--*'nn.'--'  ;  and  the  i-iaod. 
mast  be  aini0;-t  100:^  on--'  p:a«a;  m  ikaiand  wkera  tia/re 
are  iio  oanaJ^.  h  is  about  sin  iia^^-  ifaoo  l-v  tliive 
ara:l  a  lauf  broad,  On«^  mio:ht  rpeoti  a. of  a  -oanao^"s 
dav  thto'e  aiai  axna^a^*    it->  t-;-rra  Oittoe.a-u  and  n.a\e/r 


aoain     uaal;     to     -i-t;     xa,^     ra...-  a.      'I  ii*/-     j^- e-.KUala..a^    IS 


'>   n 


many 


about    til  roe    th  on  sand.     Id.^'^^^e    are    a 
inotorearN  about,  t<as. 

Tl.ie  induatra'^-  eo.  \\  i-nna-Ui  are  imiinix,  aurieulture 
and  seHinu  rM<oa.,o>..-.r,n:ae^aja!-:  rJ  rW,  rx-Crown  rVoi''*a 

Th 


1^   ktst    18   a    n:J:oa-   ii.UL.cir)-    but   il    -auW;^   ahaa.av 


Bigns    of    deea\o    be^^aase    few    atrana*-''' 
the    island    ano    the    ik,ia..,aao   oaf.    -uo'^ 
any   dav,   if  tk,w'    wu.Oit  ,   aiiO    „'"■-  "  I'l'- 
doikr   want,    lo^a,     do   they  ■' 


^  \ 


i  *■ 


na  tun- 


po.aeards.      I     a;0"aease     tlo;     a^ 
olai^es  most  of  thern  .hnnself 
diStrd,aitor    cd    tnoio.    daii\-     . 
time  there  ean  aoaree  be  a!:\    : 
on  tlie  1  ski  ml  wuu  iiuta  n^ui  v. 


< ,  •■ 


5  a  at' 


'•*'  '  loan     .'  a   •  UaO 


Vifc.K.  ^Jfe^  *Vi4!^i.  \^'  4--*  V 


i6o 


ON  THE  ROAD  IN  HOLLAND 


'lOOOc 


4- 


,  r '  t^ 


i.  I,  V,  .^  C 


I    >  r.  ■    f  ,,  I  -,  p 


'^'     .   •   Wieringen  is  distinctly  not  a  place 
\    .t  this  time  it  is  of  interest  to  any 
.  iiii   imagination,    because   the   man    who 
h        n^  is  there  ;  and  is  there  because  of  it. 
iy,  and  is  now  no-one  in  particular, 
he   German  Crown  Prince  wa^  he^x 
of  the  German  Empire,   and   i!ius, 
would  have  been  German  Enu    lui, 
e  personages  most  to  be  reckon    t  with 
[.     li.i  that  war  been  lost   ijj      ?    e 
:  i   certainly,  in  time  to  come,  have 
nonage  ;  not  because  of  his  own 
hy  reason  of  his  inherited  position, 
ic  least  matter  that  the  Kaiser  and 
were   little-mindod   men   in   big 
but  t    J  '   ey  had  the  power.     They  have 
t  of  the  world's  calculations.     There 
.  of  these  fall*  •    iiersonages,  except 
neer  nonentities  ;  although  that  of 
eat.     That  of  the  Kaiser,  guarded  cxt 
ater,  and  he  renders  himself  addi- 
tionn-^v  rnn+emptible  by  his  replies  to  appeals  for 
r^.   r    ;:   ;:^   t'.    families  of  those  who  were  maimed 
in  rn^  -  I  vice  by  whining  that  his  funds  are  exhausted, 
iiig   picture-postcards   of   himself   as  War 
i-di  of  help.     But  the  lot  of  his  heir  is 
the   worse.     He   lives   on   Wieringen   all   the   year 
r  u!  1    without  his  family,  in  an  ugly  little  house 
at  ( >o>terland,  numbered  10.     It  was  the  pastorat ; 
or,    a::    vvt    should  say,   the   vicarage.     There  is   a 


1.) 


i 

>%   ci  f  1  ',  ',    ^   i       t    ;  , 
T  * 

I       t  ^    \   %  ■    '    ■■  .     ,  ' 

i  I  Li:  .  .\      '■  '  I. 

4-    .  ♦•     >   .    ^  i  *-     '•- 

LU       I  i.i  -        I  .L 

in  the   fn 

i   L    ;.    .    '     4  '     ^   i   i  n, 

AJh-..    in- 
beeri  tin- 
pnr-',n:  nn 


V  1  i 


u 


t  •• 


;t  it  ;i!: 


!    i! 


i.  i  i  1.  < 


rri 


Duuni, 


J_.  kj  J,  L^  J 


THE  EX-CROWN  PRINCE 


i6i 


great  grim  church  near  by,  and  a  scattered  number 
of  small  houses,  and  a  modern  farmhn     i   5  .r  better 


than  ins  uwo. 

T  ,..^  =  n.|    j,^^- 

I'f  - 

--^^^    -^^-:  ee'.. 

abode  of  feUen 

greatness,  not 

*    ■ 

r   Its   vWTi   cie 

tnii,  for  it  has  none, 

but    f  >r  it-   j.f. 

-  , 

' 

*    i       s                 ^  ^       " 

'   '  "*       Mv  doin^  s^? 

^va^^    ^-vnir-Lt:, 

- . 

•  ,:...:!.      i'here    eaiiie 

out,   fit   ih^^iv 

I  *  ^ 

*  -  -    ir   -  XL 

le   '  *:  '  -    a   little   girl 

with  a  t-'V    . 

••          .    '^i^ 

e_    .]'  -f"i-  ^'^'^'^^  ^^"'^ 

the  farnin.i:i^e 

,    ,1 

e    ;.  -*  -{\  iLt. 

e^euLj  rather  shup- 

soiled     ah- 1     ■' 

.'     ■          .S-! 

^    -e  *:.'     I    Was.  tb.: 

eX'CVowii     P:/ 

.     -.  'h     n     I 

:•  ^Mo   :^!.ui:-voK,;ired 

dachsliiind  r..- 

i-  , 

his    arm.     Tlj'- 

:  i'^  -  *  -  xK  ; ;  t  -  f  1  '1 P        T  u  +■  e  .-;  •!« 

BcuWied  at  rne. 

Yes/'     Sai'l 

r, 

'*  I'm  sketching  your  house  ,  ar  ^ 

joa  iLitttfreJ  i 

^  ^ 

He   said   he    V. 

v4:S 

He  uugiiv  iv 

i..j.  -.  fe 

e^ue  ,  but  the  world  is  just  like 

f  i-i  -,  t 

IS-  „e-i  -w. . 

> 

'  he  asked. 

"And  whatiBteresl 

do  V'ei  III!  I  ' 

t    '; 

I   T 


"^   Fl   U' 


*-/  ^V  Ji  A.^  "O" 


T 


vvioit  flattering. 


^f 


^^ ^'^^^^51,^^1  .•[  that  time,  nuf 


i 


*■')    t 


i  -I  t.  ■       •»  *  .  i  I  . 


.  <l  V 


are]  of  tht*  p'. 


h 


1 1 


i  afraid  of 


lie  wielded. 
'  I'  '  afraid 


I  ee\'^  i!t  vour  uoeket 


.     /    5J 


•  ■■;  d    ^  >  ^*t  yuiu'  seivice. 


»> 


J 


t62 


ON  THE  ROAD  IN  HOLLAND 


'■■  I,.:M-/i'-.Ti^  " 


hp  said.    "  It 


me  back  to  the 


1  ^ . 


''  w! 


!    !.  .i   ir.   London.'' 

■■  Tl. :,;  .,r.;  '.hose,-  1  ivp::--1^  v.:'l  s  :inn  meaning, 

11.  -r..:-..!  it  ■-uiUiem.     Inuced,    I    tlii^k  l.p   -^f'^'e 
h.ani  n:-,  d)r  his  gaze  was  fix-d  mpditatiw'y  ..^  n  =  c 

,ji.r^;|.,;,-,  to  vvhere  the  Sun.i-'-r  -i:l  \^-u-  -!.n,;.ag  -^-f 


/^^ 


€k.-.  i> 


Illl^ 


^=^-.  — - 


OOSTKBT AND. 


me   sea     feoii.cwLci^   beyond  lav  that   i  -   :d     -le 

w];-r-      iivo     those     ^.L^ngnriistS     ^-vh^      h;al      c^UclUcIud 

tLf-r-    •ireaii.i:'    t.a         .w-,     f  •  auk,       >  

^^j   h.,j.   ^,r..]   Id^   ;iT.d   !r;.l    blOUglit  lirn  to   liii;^  iiuL'.r.r 

gor;  rrusor  M,;X  of  a  place. 

"-  Ilnw  <i..  vuu  vi^Luyy  liie  time?      I  rath-r  -^-n- 
ci.  i,.i  ui:.n  the  devH  v-  -  -lo  all  day  and  ..v^iy    dav 

aU  ruui.d  tdiv  '.■..t.icLuai;,  L'^^  \ueriDgen. 


)j 


"A/osriy  MUD" 


163 


i.a 


f  till  Ilk  i  know  every 


stone  on  :l     .-. 

"  \ou  ^uiv-  -  t.;  '.'   ?Litd'  I  vpiitured  :  ^'  it's  riiO:5tly 
mud.  ' 

"And  one  iiak-i  one*s  self  pleasant  ti  the 
Si  I  see.  You  are  an  amateur  blacksmith,  and 
'^  ^^         ,  ,   ^  And  people  like 

to    have    rhrTa    ..^    -  i..  -  ^  ...,>..,.  Also    I    pve    aw;iV 

signed    pi.  00-     '■~:^  r  : xiei    exereibO    cUways. 

A  iiian  iiui-t   lYiao'>  iite'* 

lie  looks  lit.     IdiL   and  .a  .     ^    -;  .   aodM.jd     o-^* 
over  iijny---^,uij  u  ^  l:nn.in^     .Na.t  very  hapf)yd,uiikiri,y. 


Th 


e   biiai^o   aro   lur  'v^inAi    in:   h   faciiia   the   eainera. 


They   arn    fui    pabia-atiuia     lii    repuse,    the    iaee    is 
almost  ead. 

^'  ^'''' 'jd^-'  hka  me  here,  you  know/'  he  remarked, 

chakeriajiiyh-^   u:,    though  he  expected   to   be   eoii- 
tradiiOeak 

"  Xaat    i>   because  joii   a*-.      .vaij   those  signed 

piOtiatrds    and    distribute    d.    ^.       ho^se^kofa,    with 


voar  iiutjnl  :-tii'''ui'>  a  ,m 
^i^''-  di  h<r\a/  -a  im^vnai 
sidtaaia —  " 

"  Miiai  voi.r  .   ■,      "  a..  ; 
But,  aaarihe 

]'  <^-'^'-  ^^■^'id      Uv      aa-  that  pass." 

'*^"^-y''    "^   '^i-'   -■   ^--'•^^-i   deal   of  :a.ta.,.,laaa,  .  .  .Dididt 
know  1  was  an  artwa  a.., 


*•■   ■         -But    yoa    i   .ak^ 
^  ■"'-  -i  '.ver  it   nova   :  <. .x- 

-~^^-^-  --,    laiortad  iiie  Aii- 


ini    7 


Iu4 


ON  THE  ROAD  IN  HOLLAND 


AM  ARTIST,  OF  SORTS 


-  I    cinii'r    KL'.w   it   now.    But    <i^    an    amateur, 

not  bad.     Th-y  -^.i-w.,;    rn-  a^    u--^   De  Ha^in   llutel 
a  portrait   hv  via.a,  a.  coloure-l  ch.ilk^,  t^f  tiie  iiotel- 

borsasiiafs,    \va:i.:    n.a    u-*..>n-a    ^-  W  '^    and    a    card 

nf   -Maau.   TuiiftL^'r   watii   a 


sealed   a  J   it    oa   :■ 
sutcineiit  iLcU   u.  v. 


■  O  P  p 


iLuac 


h\' 


tiie    fnil    hailck    oi 


**  SCEOPENHA     B 


Vintself.  M^av.  V.  r„  vr-  na-^v  buy,  faize^liar  with 
all  ^f■^^  r:  }.'  na.  i  ^  .a  .ati:.  uf  laa  .  talking  tn 
tLe   ^ak^.^^^   alti      rdtilojiv,   0116  ^larL    ^L,(a\>    Liia    111 

tLt  ac  •  uf  iJ.caa.1  i_,  .a^  I  n  d  ,.r  ih  il.^^^  ,mnhy  at 
Hipp(dijiia-L^  t-k  lk.aitr  ni:  ;:|  ar<-,ra atar-  plac/fa  tan, 
\\-LeL    wc    itii^Lix/Lur    iLcat    Ua,.    \  aiu^e  ^ailL  tlub  gru-^ 


leJs 


tesque-Iooking  name  is  so  named  after  St.  Hippoly- 
tiis,  who  nlled.  accordiri;^  to  Lraditiou.  tia.^  a^a:  wn.- 
samtly  ^.aliai^  of  colt-tamer.  IT"'  wa^  inwrvr^-i  hv 
beina  torn  to  pieces  by  horses,  at  Ootria.  m  Itaia, 
A,I)^^  252. 

Great  and  ^OiO  r|a  i  -kig  is  English  business.  Neariy 
all  tit'  I'l  ajr'--p'-wi::.i[Yi«:i  on  \Vka'irii.aai  are  issued 
hv    a    w.-i.^aa-aai    ik;jaaa,    ar:n. 

Tile  oxakaaAOi  Prince  ve,i^  ai  a--   aaia    aa  tiie  iaid- 
iiearted    c^aLaa'-a  ^i.itajii    tjf    hl<    ai]'..,.ii.-    a^    :ifi    aatac 
than    bv    aaaa.ai„;    ulse    one  could  lia\'e  >aid.      iL^ 
wear  iril  m  a   k-jd,  calling  to  his  dachshund  a- 
''  >aii'ip-ni:  i^.^es,   aom." 
And  tiait  \va.-s  idic  last  I  saw  of  biin., 
That   v^a-)    }<-^r>'-i  exile,  sick  of  weary  W;^aea    ■:-. 
speaks  Eaaeidi  ptakjctiaa  and  looks  vera  kn'!--  aa- 
a  Ueraiaia     N^r  aa-s  le/   hy>]:  ^^r  -i\.  =^   nir'  uie   an 
pressuai  of  btaaa  de^  silly  a^e■-^ai  ^a'  die  caricatart^s, 
with    the    haratiria    1  ['>   and   sheepish   kaok   of    ida^-^r 
we  are  asi{-d  r,.  believe  in.     On  the  contrary.   • 
irnpressaai  i.  i  \iv:  he  is  a  far  uiorc  able  aaia  thaa  t,  . 
elerer  fool   an!   essentially  little  person  a      a 

Th  •  ex  C  1  o  rn  fa  .  ,Q  jg  ^  well-set-up,  athlet..  .  .  .  j 
mara  who  has  th-  rp^^arance  of  being  th 
man  he  has  poa^>ra  ia  aa,:.:  1.  He  dresses  .  .  .^ 
ridinadart-ada:a,  white  w.ee;.--i  sweater,  aai  haaa-r 
garters.  The  only  Gernaat-  ha/'ka'-^  item  t:  laa  dat- 
topped,,  peaked   ^-^ap. 

One   migh.r   alaea-r'     ^     '    '^    hi   ona'=^    a*eir"   ^o    be 
sorry,   even    for   hu,..,    ea^aea    aaa'.-    Lraai    aaathn,i£^ 


'^  -^Dort"^- 


,  .,  \r.    5        ix-^ 


i66 


ON  THE  ROAD  IN  HOLLAND 


^  -i  1 


m  life,  in  this  iiiii    rdctive  place.     The 

K.tve  four:']  '-^  !-.nishmeiH    more  ■-^'  v.-e 


I'ri.iisj  iur 


i    ;    ( 
i    i    I 


)■ 


b 


liiiir^ — the    i^Ki: 


■  J,  j^  '    /  V  i. 


4    4    1       J     -. 


Ki.;:^ 


Jit' 


aiu  bciiig  wiULeii,  the  last  days 


;i 


rr^poQqof]  po;ist^]ine  of  ! 


rJ  k  ^  .-\.  \^.  i  . 


iKr      : 


f    ■■    !     * 


*.  s.      4.  * 


•  -  - '- 1 


L  i 


X  .^  1  ' 


i  i<  't  n.:i 


}\  (  tt  t   ; 


Bufku:::,  -li.i-t 


Ail 

1          ■  1       ] 

-.     I!'  A\' 

i '  »•"! ;i  1  h  :j;    ,1     ix 

1 

!  f  i  •  i 

rup 

r*;*'r*--'_ '.' 

I  he    C' 

"  '/JlU.il         '  *.i-t"  ^ 

j  '  '  ■ 

'  t'>^ 

1'!-     b*  t  WlM'Tl 

lil^Mll    . 

iTs;     lac    l-'i^LC::; 

:'!     _ 

t 

.    and    the 
^re  the  sea 

hv"'^-'  through   i!i   1™"'!'.  converting  what  wa-  nr  — 
in     irreat  Frisian  lake,  Fle\M,    mi  i   .lu   inland   sea 

fii    ^'V.ni^ow..    ran   ho   stormy   and    t-\'*  n 

!  into   the   sundered 

Wbj^l  IbrxcoiaiiU.  :3ij^  nv 
dr  A  r  r  •]:>■  Z  T  Z  r^cndering  its  waters  h  r 
mor-  t.:..in    l)racki-h   and   encouraging  a  gro-::. 


\\"  1 1  : 


(i  :i    i       ■ft  .  f- 


r,r 


t',   ,     \  !     j 


■■o-   f>:    j-.a^t   a!:'i 


o 


V\    UtJ'-i  V\    I, 


111  lie  of  "  pampus, 


>> 


ThnQ 


in 


rH£:  ZUIDER  ZEE 


167 


f  :  if 


^   1!,   '    ;     t 


its  shallower  parts  to  be  vigorously  kept  cleared 
away. 

The  Zuider  Zee  is  thus,  although  apt  to  be  on 
occasion    a    turbulent    water    (eleven    people    were 

drowa'-l    on   \t   from    a   steamship   at   Zw<aj^%    m   a 
stor  ;l  i   recently  as  March,  1922),  not  a  sea  navigable 

II  vcb^suL  of  deep  aiaUj^ht  ;  and  the  city  ai  ;  pa  i 
Aaa^terdam,  whicli  'daiid^  on  tha  estuarv  uf  *aa/  Y 
\i^--  Ij),  at  its  south-we>tern  uxtreiuiiya  WaS, 
tht  ruiitinued  growth  in  tia..^  size  of  slaa-, 
obliged,  if  it  would  keep  its  trade  in  face  of  the  com- 
petition a  i  Rotterdam,  to  construct  the  two  ship- 
canals  to  iia  Helder  and  to  Ymuiden,  completed 
reso  uvxAv  m  1825  and  1876,  and  since  then  both 
de-p  -a-d   aiid  wid'Hi^d. 

The  ar  a  of  this  sea  is  1932  square  miles.  From 
north  tn  ;uiith  it  is  86  miles  lonir ;  and  vi  miles 
n^rid  froai  -,1:4  to  west  at  its  ar'-ii^',-^!  breadth, 
tiie  whole  comprising  about  1,i:3u,jjJ  aert%  A 
large  prir^ba'^  nf  fh"s  great  expanse  wa-  once  laaai, 
feitbi"  .iail    aaau  many  villages,  a'i  drriwia'd   iia  the 


I,  i    _,  ^ 


irtvasioTi  --^  :  iie  sea  in   \'2^'l,     Tht 

'  '     *      Dutch  people  for  reclaiming  land 


genius 


1   i-.  *^ 


'J 


looked  towards  recoverins:  much  of  this  bv  ta  ib  la 
the  sea-entrance  and  draining.  This  began  tl> 
the  foiaii  nf  some  deeply-consider  ^i  schemes,  u 
at.  the  close  of  the  XaaHjieonic  war^  and  tJi-'  growth 
of  commerce  and  increase  m  I'lh-  -  ze  of  ships.  It 
b.  came  evident  that  the  Zuidi  r  Zee  was  no  loncrer 
f  f  ranch  economic  use.     For  that  to  be  evident  ^^  as, 


I  -I 


i68 


ON  THE  ROAD  IN  HOLLAND 


in  virw  of  Oi    D  itch  character,  the  first  step  towa^  Is 

coM-idHniij  Hi-  alM.lition  ui  it.     iii''  h-r^.-    r^':i  ui 


fi 


1  n  rr       t  t 


th'"^     inr-     hr'twrT.?-;     I^Jj^g    i-la!:' 


1   ,^  i   .  :  i  - 


li'^\''T 


hw:  A'.fiT: 


'"-   Li"   T'  ::.^-^  r-.K 


6^-rioii?iT  been  considfica  ,  lur  alil.uu^-ii  th-  tuui.^i 
comiriLi  to  Ilroi.iiiO  i^'.'  -tonnnT  oo  -^-ir.'^  rnho  :-.or!;0:r'^ 
day  may  bo  <i^.*^oiLda"i  ov  iih;  ■Oi.iotov  a,oo  Ldrr^.:ov 
chanro'ls  IjotwtH^i  -r.^Mo  ..j  tfjOQp  Jcrlr^  r^^j  ijjp  diffi- 
culty  of   tkreadiiig   .i   l-'--^-^igv    between   them,    the 


RECLAMATION  WORKS 


169 


wild  gales    '  .  :    ,:  aspect  on  affairs. 

T.h^'  IO--00  ;-  O;.  :  ,«-  or  ^-ooo.j  'O,^  -'  i  15  that 
of  tlif  Zoi'i^-r  Zee  AHo.iri..|Jinn  ;  a  project  dcoinitelv 
Fanoiioj.tMi  bj'  liit^  .NtO-.iierjaiois  Htal(;s-(jonera]  jj^ 
Juno.  liU^,  ari'i  oriw  aonvoiy  boin^Lr  procecfJed  vviiii. 
The  ijfst  sh-_.  ,;^  'o-j  Mjo^troii:  a  dvko  froiii  close  bv 
Ewijksbii-  to  Wooim^ai  ls*a!i(i,  and  thence  across 
to  Sta\ojreii  :  a  coicth  oi  Ibi  miies.  Thus  will 
"W  ieriij,a'-ai  cea-p  lu  be  an  island.  I'ruvisiun  will 
be  niado  l^a-  tinia)'  tJua;es,  to  lairrv  o'll  tiie  watia-s 
of  iho  sex  !s\T.rs.  Ir  i^  r-tiijiatcd  I  hat  these  d\aves 
wili  Taia,'  U:n  vcsirs  to  ^a'aistriict. 

dhi^  so(o.nn.i  [HO'Tac:  .a  rne  works  wall  be  the  dyking 
in  of  OiUoh  of  the  dranied  iacak  leacariii  a  hike  to  be 
called,  froni  tht^  largt'st  tn  tiio^e  rivCrrs.  tio^  '  Yssel 
Inike,  ^  ab  a  n-sorvcon  ITat  wiJl  occaipv  anutliCr 
twenty  years.  The  kiai  thas  to  be  r^eiaaimed 
will  be  an  oiJectuai  unoi  Vjv  -snliiViiihjii  of  oUO.OOO 
acres.  I*]>tnnati'5  for  Uowt:'  wojrns  amounttaJ  before 
tho  Uj.ai  War  of  inJ4-IH.  wlien  prna-s  were  low. 
to  £2te<H'H!,fHHj  ;  bat  ir  is  not  nisw  craisKiered  thcU: 
they  i  a.  t:-^ 
Econonie 

\asw  ra    w      ' 
pri-^e    shoa!  I 

dlflira  t  IPS      ., 

war.     Tfiar    th 
rew^ornna-  for 


1  '0" 


'  ? 


:i 


:i:.-    >L. 


»/        I 


aO:^ 


E'U 


I  ■       i 


!ci^'  CO 


^    "  ...    r 


.i[  Oral    o-    os_>   .,    verv   sound 
*     '■'    '■''  nv  wen  established 


that  tnat  looa -shortage  was  caused  by  tiie  export 


h 


It  I 


170 


ON  THE  ROAD  IN  HOLLAND 
iiicts   to   Germany;     d  1    by   the   same 


r('asn!ii!i,:. 


SdV    ifi    ;■ 


t  *■  ^ 


p 


rir^ 


',  I-  i  A  >—■  v/  O 


were  to  i 


C  C  111 , 


[JaLcii  iariii<jf:>  wuai'i  iii  the  lir--t 


th''  more  t^i  >nTi 
minimum    r 


.1 


n.T 


Tl'  '"1 


V4  ^^ 


i  ,  1  '       <  1      ■«     i    i    !    ,_    , 

L      ;i3-C0n- 


!    * 


for 


];,.  rrnirse  of  these 


Halt     f] 


7 


]0    >P;l!ir>r!"^    « 


iH-    :.i 


I  '!  . 


e  will 

' !!  and 

^;1    liii: 


suriiptioru 

Nu,    th^'^"    ar-    n^ 
recL,uiiiiii-r  tU"  Zaaa 

Ui  coursta  it  ]>  '-V 

b'  d'^^t^')y^■J^  uaa 
'.fiKiaiiZf'U    vvaii.    a)-*.'    IV- '^    .1 
\'uieiid.a!n's   nur^'^'r   i-xi^-a-!]--. 

A 

bret'ciii'S  waii  na^^'a  uu  rcu.^;uii  iui  aXi^ixiia,, 

tliai    tilt'    !iiai::>t,     laa    a  1*11  a  ii     riK~ 
lira--     ^.1     tia*--     part-     will 
ppopir*   wiii    ri,a>-.'   to   be  coia^ 
thera   Will   f't  !):an'*— lie    liic   tuuri^l 

a  traveller,  then,  to  make  acquain- 
survivals  while  there  is  yet  time. 


1  f 


I,  I 


" ;  i  a  --      '11 

•  i  a'. I  last'ii !',. 

1       X 

.,.»...  ^ '  .-a  ■ 


i,  a 


\\ 


S_4.  -i.    V  O. 


^^   is 


It 


I  \  t '  -^ 


XIX 


III 


Laxbix -, 


VO 11  "':•',:  i. 


l^i  >        ciii*..*.      ti       1  aii  '»> 


^'rom    Enkhuizen,   you  find 
-lation.  a  lid,  for 


ST A  VOREN 


171 


ax 


>T)aa! 


]]  the  rest,  a  very  modern  village  of  one  street, 

la  quiet,  with  a  canal  alonsr  the  wide  empty 

Stavoren,  in  its  present  I'Uise,   \>  a  jHaaa  u{ 

\a>>t«,Tiiava  There  is  not  even  a  (■ijiirch  iAd  or  naw, 
iHil*:'^^  a  >mail  undistingiiJ-a.a(-i  iittle  liall  nun"  l)e  so 
(■oiiSalf/rrd.  You  wo-'a  tJaal,,  Stavorrii  hixd  no  past. 
Bu:  11  iia>.  It  is,  in  .iu.ai,  H.i;  (a„^Mda::a,  dead  tajwii 
of  tiit^  Zuaaar  Zee;  so  d-,aL  and  t^u  iuug  binca,  that 
the  Luida'  LciX  been  lost. 

lliai  \va=  a-^  the  opening  of  trie  tfiirteeiiifi  cennirv, 
:^'-vrH  i^ai^di'd  years  ago.  Stavoreii  was  t!a:ii  a 
ur^aii  Durr  of  Friesland.  There  the  proaaa 
ilaa:   iiio^a-aident  country  had  a   palni-x-, 

r  vvas  gradual]}-  uij>\i\.iiAvd  Ivy  ^allJi  and  ^u  tia.* 
iitterlv    decayed.     There    i-    no    rrart'    *>!    jt. 
"^and^i'anks   still   extend   m   front   of   ti.a   Staaojaai 
i.i}a     The   chief  of   thera   is   tha    "  Vrvuwvu- 
V. !  use  name  embodies  an  ai         ;    -  .: 


(it    I Liat 


i  1 1 1  1  I 


piaai 


a    I 


'/  ■  i   !  i  i   ! 


fl 


V* 


><aavb  tu  aacuuaa  iuroldlbla  ,   .-. 

Tia   <f(  ry  of  it  is  that  the  proud  wife 

la  rr Tant,    grown   offensively   wealthy,    'b^iv^^'l    '! 

r^aptain  of  one  of  her  husband'^?  meiThar:.t-Ji,ii)s  to 

^ai?a:  back  for  her,  on  his  next  voyage,      tha  aa  -t 

prcaajui  thing  in  the  world."     The  peo]  le  we  meet 

witli  in  these  old  legends  have  always  thai    \w:   .. 

is   commanding,  way  with  them,     i  do  ii  :   :  ;    ^ 

whiai   ir  oeased,  but  T  suspect  it  ::as-t  liavr  d-tOi  a 

V  r\    i  aa  while  before  my  time. 

I  VA'  aarTains,  too,  of  that  era  d'a-rr  9oein  to  iiave 
baa!i    Hi    the    least    like    any    aa\;-ra  =  aa 


ii 


u 


II 


it 


UN  iilL  ROAD  IN  HOLLAND 


have  ever  met 


.r,^'r-.V 


Y  to  have  heard  of. 


A  vt'fv  -tran^f'  ^ll:pf•-[^  ;rMr-u,,  iM'-,h'\'r/  m, 
nor  r^'fer  tii^-^  niatt-r  i^  hi-  owij^^r.  in-  lad'' 


n  0  r  (:•  V  e  ri  a  ^  R  i  u  r  t  ii  ^'  -  r  r.  < .  1 1 


■,i 


1 1 . 1  ;i "  a 


"xa-haia!  : 


I    >■■'=,      ^     ?      /"4      J"; 


.-,  1 


St*erV      lu      ixfiU^^       \V;i(lL.      «.   A 


Wish     to 


)       1,1  a  VI' 


Ih*      1  i^'  ^'  i      [^  ■  "^     «  '''V 


1    aii'l 


n  J;  jTKUi 


discretion,  and  caria'^   hark,   ,aa,.urd.:ea  tr^ 

with  a  cariio  of  whf..*  frrmi  !,)d:iiz;a\      Ti:'..*  tait*  tiitai 


1  a  i  i '  Mi  :■•      w  «  d  i . ,.  I  i  i 


'-  i         '.  I .  -  "        ^  ^  i   i  ^.'  1  :  i  .  .1-  I, 


f  ^r.:. 


V  1 


was    a    \vi,s a  ov 


pues    on    tu    sa\'    thai    tia 
the  wliear  tu  bt:^  thr'/wn  i,,v^-^rh>h,, 
niouth,   where   v:   -|a-=.at>'0   .md    : 
sanddiank  ;    time    neirij    ai'-a 
Divnu*  lairse  fur  wu-aaa  "  la-.    i 
Hi  the  world." 

I  perceive  t!i:i^-  anofh-r  vrT-irei 
moral    tale    dr?(dar--    la.a    'U>'    I 
which  niav  expiaicu    i-.a 
thnifrs.     And  a  iiarl'-ar^ 

' »     >fi  \      itt»*  '^i  i      a     I  ciC  ^  .  lU 

harbuur-ansiUtia 

Th^'  irnrn^'dait^-^  neighbourhood  of  StavAr-^-i  * 
eni.ra-v  of  uiten\-t  :]^  n..a  place  itself,  but  >'"^^^n 
c^ina^  und^T  laa.:^  I*^^  of  the  dykes  into  fi 


(Jl'Al'ii-i 


•lariMiur- 


Ch'-.  frO  "Xi/use,  a  a  tia'-** 
a-ar  ui  I o-dav,  und.  ou:--- 
u    would   Jiavr    ^uru^ahiaa 


ettisomnfr   ^  ire 


iO«%n(an 


L  J.  i.  i-  '  J  \  l  ^   <-i.        i  1  i  A  i  i  i  i  ■.   ',-         ^,  ■  4 


.'*■>  *-         t    -' 


..4.   T   iVCC)         U    .  J    i 


ine   paii><aa^: 
are  spectaeuiarlv  i  :''    ;ai  stout;  caal    : 

lir-pet-.      Cm,      a     ^lu-,  tv.i-auu     .-'T    ,     i;-.-..^'-mi.;,  ^uu 

L  1 1  ~  i  -.  i  »   .  1  '-         1  >  ^.  .,  ,4 '  '  i.     ■■.,_..  ^  -    •  ^  .  i         -  w  ■        1  ^  »  ■  .  .,., 


a  1  i 


i>r  n 


till 


.  W  X.  C  A~i  %»■■  *— '  N-"  * 


I 


& 


.--«e:f-:r    . 


m 
m 

H 

s 

e 
6 


3 
I 


ffl 


Il 


,! 


HINDELOOPE]^ 


175 


i:l\<.-il 


1   one   always   to   be   guarded   against. 

l)u-xn  HpIow,  on  the  sands  of  ih-  Ziiidi-r  Zee.  voii 


pt>rct'ivt:  h<e.  liiiie  ei  I  I  hut  -t-'1vatie  aiei  the  sea. 
and  a  \wd' -preadiTii  ■-kx  :  diei  iii  tiie  ui^tanei:  tiie 
^anr}'du(,kiiiLi'  \ol\y  -i^-^'hU'  of  i  f  incieloopt'ii  thureh, 
^'o^'M-  ;ef  }.;.o:o  >ov  rh/  >teps  i-edioe  ui'  to  tiit^  '"  Bad 
H^e'-i  ,  a  tiijr  \\hi>ii  s^opih.s  fea.rfiin\'^  inipri)iiiibiiiti, 
unless  you  kieoi  fe:o  it  n-eauc  the  "  B^ith  "  hotel. 
hAtei  IviiuWiiiiJ  as  leiirh.  there  is  ahee\e;,  10  aii 
Kf:ea:ehman,  a  |h--a-it;t  ir^'oeeal  n;e\a.er  abesit  the 
^^-?na.  as  th*a'i/  I-  af.H:art  that  nf  the  sa\-eral  "Dam  '' 
■'^*''^hs  in  [h^haiifh  Aa;.d  at  >^eht^veryiiiieii.  tas* 
B^-ghisTi  as:d  dhaafasat  a  aa,u  Scarborough  of  Ih^Yinj-l^ 
iih  n.-ned  jhtu  niaa  i^:  i<  a  faoh'raat   asv  tia  see  .;n   iii- 


<jla.a: '  i\'e-hu;  sk  i. 


I   thost 


re. 


loi    pa---!ja    ai,    tnose    s^tiais    WiairiJa/   ji 
<"^-"-}'    whiaii     a-     aiahaeaiered   Mi    [area   hoas-rs 


'*  Kadnaan  "  ;    just     a-    though     he    aoav 


f-/t 


i  i  f 


! 


ifaO: 


^'-'-^-^^^ei*-  t-f   oaauity,  instead  of  being   ;a.-i  a   bath- 

aia^a;daaa. 


fh-:a  afoi   Y 
a^taOla^a 


' , . 


^  h^aaij  a  fi.aa aar 


a     uul    i.ol     o- ■  ji.^.d^y    :a.     if!     aijv    sa\a'i 
Uait    rahia\a'^  sensc,      ff  \va  derafa  naidv   t,s   \a-af    a 


'^^  lid    apv  (or  rather,  to^ 


ai.)   ^d   Ti,*-^   Zaider   Zeed' 
H'    s.-^    I  iiaOaaM:.|a'^'-a    wr    miist   vasita      I'here    it    staJicO;,^ 

behind    tda>    aa^.d^:    a  a  ■■     eai   dyke:^_    de'fpnnad,    dv 
theiii    if     '^^    ^:  '    /  .,.   ..    \  ..     -.^  r!p.  :•  :   -^a,:^,    |,,;.^, ,  ^: 

t^    tfte    *  *aa^^*       a      <'    I      ■  •  .  ,       -a  d     -"'•'    *  a*   r-T 

'  -  '  .     11.(4       !.  *  i  i    t  a  a  a  a^ 

ciwav.      dh-r-a    hu\ve\eis    j-^    tha    ijiaat'    (  hiircdi  ;    and 

^^^''^'''  ^">^-   i^-  -na.-'  Stadhiiis.  or  Tsaui  Idad.  -oatd.  its 
^'^■■•'''  l-^ure  ai  .i  i,ui,  uutbide,  tiuumiiy  ao  ariiajis,ai. 


m\ 


\   ' 


J 


176 


^  A  f 


HE  ROAD  :.\  nniLAND 


^m  arms — a  deer,  N:'apin^ 


shield  with  the  Hinaeloope 

—a  Dathetie  relic  of  an  oid  dignity. 

''  She  13  the  Town  llouae,"  mui  a  n.^ilenaan, 
who,  like  every  Dutchman  with  a  little  EnizH^h  at 
command,  was  eager  to  show  his  learning.  He 
pulled  a  dried  herring  uut  of  a  ca,pncinus  poeket, 
and  bread  and  unions  out  uf  another.  an.d  ^nunched 
them  with  a  tremenduus  relish.  "  1  am  m.  lenglatid/ 
he  eontmued,  between  tremendous  bite^,  ■•  i  urn  m 
London  many  year,   and    I   spike   the   Engel.eln_a3 

1-         ■'    ^i-^-or^  ''      TC.f    i<    tfiP    siinerstition    which 

an  Lnseiscnman.        luai   i^   uxe  .  .4,  ,. ^..-^i^^-^^^y^^ 

all   Hollanders   who   have   a   few   wor-1:^   uf    Engn^ii 

c  II  ('  T 1  s  n . 

I  left  him  to  his  convietions  and  entered  the  clniich. 

The  koster— or  ih:  kur.tere:^se--.hir  it  Wa:^  a  wuman— 
Wcis  expecting  tni:,  and  the  eu^^u-^nam^  tV-'....;  -v.- 
cents,  without  which  fee  no  Huu^e  uf  i^vd  h  ^ptm  untu 
vou  m  this  cuuntrv.  where  e\-en  the  hmnuh-  d 
klt.e'is  sought  ' 
beaia  this  fervent  exhurtatiun 


5 

A  14.  iJ 


With    miieh    scar 


C  •"  H  J . 


Das  heeren  wce-.rd 
ilet    aandaeht 

Kornt    daciftnt*    Hi 

Als  hmden  iuei»: 


■'I  t  ■  »■■' 


Which   1^  to 

to  cume 

heart hv  and  witt 


tl     Mf         fliA 


\^'  n  r* 


Mr-         ^     »  iTl  I 


i^'aI 


nivt.' 


1 1 , .  4  .<  ■ 


i  w 


IS,  you  see,  a  j. 


tne  pia^ 


M=r:Oe  = 


t     ■    '    :'  ■  i 


HINDELOOPEN 

vc  nerer  observed  anv 


177 


loopen.    But  T  ],d\ 

no  niatter  fiuw  pjous  leaping  like  the  hmd  tu  chnrdi. 


Cl(  C  Ci  I". !  Ci  f 


ZJ  ^ 


OIJi    D00n%v-\Y    AT    "TNDELuOPEN, 

or  an\-vhere.   for  any  pii!-|)ose.      It 
tins  staid  ktcd.  where  VAOwnnviiT's  are.  > 
more  delihtcaft^. 


178 


ON  THE  ROAD  IN  HOLLAND 


like  that 

n'U:^,      a  lid 


Th^    interior  nf  TTindeloopen 

SHVt^rpIv  dealt  witii  m  tti.*  way  uf  rmMti!y-M,i|.pra^>tai 
ornaiiieiit.     And.  al^^.,^  lika  mu^t  iJutili  cliurriias.  U^ 
i.  ke|-^t  loekeci,     Aiiiiu>t  al\\ai\->  yuii  inu^^t  ^.ta-k   idii- 
'•  kn>ter;'  the  ciistCHiiari  or  >ext(>!K  tu  come  aiid,  iiii- 
lurk  It  and  receive  tweiitydive  (a^nts  :  and  tlien  y-au 
Will    imd,    after    >aniplinu    a    uond    many    elairehea 
tiiat    it    ia    caily    exceptieaiaiiv    they   do    luA.    exhibit 
internaiiy  preci>eiy  the  >anie  features  ;  h:dty  eyiindneal 
coliann.^'    which,    h,ke   e\-ery   utlier   {aiit,    are   whata-^ 
wa-hed  to  a  dazzhng  whiteness  :  a  great  bare  nave. 
and     m    the    ctiuir    nr    eh.aneeh    where     we     wouhl 
exiuaa-    the    altar    tn   bta    no    altar,   Icit   steals   Ic-r  a 
|)art  of  the  eonlrre^atio^n  ni-ttaid.     1  tait  ]>  a  typiaaa 
Duteh    lieOjrrned    hliurrn    practuan       Iha;    ehiuv-hes 
arte      in     fact,     ratlief     ni^re     preach,inu-iaui-     tkui 
eiiurchr-. 

1  d-j  nor  think  there  i^  fnurli  cfitlmsiasm  about 

rhua-.dinaniia  herw  It  d  a.  t^iho.  ■\\ha:n  the  Dntek 
...riired  at  'jnee  then.'  -pintuai  and  natic-nai  Hi- 
dependerua--  thev  irrt-w  tideract.  aicd  a  iittit-  rn'j.rt.a 
liuhaii-l  taught  reiicitius  tehnatiMn  t'c  tha  wrma. 
Yon  inav  pn.dea-^  aad  ra)-.:rvf  b^av.  as  ahnu^t  eci- 
vua^re  eh'^e   neiWaiiaa':a  a,C;c  !'i/iiaa)n-'^- e'-/ii,  vi    a   lancy 

aort n;r    tiane    at     a!!  :    aiai     Iin-^-iaia    eaOaa     'Ov'    Vols 

or  tht^  nther.  to  intrnVaf^  Ba;^  ]h^\l\^.d  wa.-  ta=;^  iir-t 
n,.    he    >o    \il'onoro.iLO'oi.     Aiu:v    :.,\\.    iio-    c:-ii^.st 

rrkjtua    in    !IodaaI^i .     t  he    mnat    iiiten-e    ru!a.\ivn  aaa, 

.;.  iL.it  ui  iLe  na.c..in.    ui  u-unno  mo  waters  aait. 


II 

I* 


V 

i 


HINDELOOPEN  CHUECH  AND  STADlfUK. 


THE  DECAYED  TOWNS 


i8i 


H 


-       '  ?  ^  ?    '  w  the  sea-level  this  is  readily  to  be 

liiUii:f"<tjjun, 

It  i<,  eu-tnmary  to  =-''i,if JTH'-fvil'-p  nvpv  the  little 
Diitcli    tow'ns,    de<'^a  .'tMi    irtjia    tiieir    uiiltMt    wealth 
and   power.      hyu-rv>  ima  as  we  are   in  tlieir  aiiri.e^u 
glories,   w'l'   luaal    ra-a    re;:!-t'r    tlaar  deeiiiie,    ior   -a    o 
tinib  eoiild  we  iiiaj  [■feseriaMi,  tlaMr  areliitecture  and 
<feeoraTioio     'Wv  iia\a^  faainl  iiiuch  talk  of  tlie  '*  aewi 
eitie:^.  oi  the  Ziialia;  Zae/^     ^lui'h  of  that  w  rionsaoMO 
Hie   aijaieiii   towns   (not   ritie>)    are    laat    dead,    rwr 
sleeping,  and  oreaiiarg  of  tiaar  .irteat  past,     "^peakincr 
<'*i'  t^aaii  uaaeralha  thrv  aia^  neitlaw  lejur,  our  shabhia 
^^  v^'U  woaia   and  Nhabbmess  aial  povert\a  aa.  ..mm.; 
and  iiial  rfitaai  ataiwinit!}-  in  unv  th-U  arMi  raaiahwis 
aiai    ineriaisiTwr   modtaai    cirv  :    -aia    Anisteraaa:    -:• 
liotteoiaia,.     o.    say  .  anptwaxi     h^^aw-wa. 

'far   ouira  a.an^  ■      ^      ■    are  in  slumber; 

or,  t=  change  the  tigure,  they  are  like  some  busy 
man  who,  at  the  close  of  a  ^^iieiiuous  career,  la  taking 
his  wad' war^a  d.  rest. 

^^    ^'  a    to   which  we  now  come,   a  place 

^  p^  ^^  -^^  g^Jie  in  decay,  but  just  a  sequestered 
village,  you  find  a  dignified  square  with  an  enormous 
etarcii  la  oar  and  a  weigh-house,  and  a  stadhuis 
bearing  the  arms  of  the  ''  State  of  Workum."  That 
phrase  gives  the  key  to  the  olden  standing  of  these 
individualistic  towns :  scarcely  less  than  that  of 
all-sufficing  little  states. 

Tt  i>  It  m  very  long  ago,  in  the  historic  sense, 
that  thes     places  still  kept  a  considerable  trade, 


l82 


ON  THE  ROAD  IN  HOLLAND 


S    much  may  be  read  in  their  architecture.     Ti    the 

(iu-;t  stnt'—  i.t  Wi^rkxiui.  a,-^  of  RolRward,  tl^-ru 
1-  a  uTi'iit  (hul  (icttiiiU  fr^-'fn  tin-  midui^^  ;i!i'i  Jat^-r 
■\'i'ar>  of  the  ('iLrhteeiitt!  rt'iitun'  ;  the  cliaracterjstii: 
exiiberaiit  and  r'aHakini:  fl*'-aiii  and  deaorauon 
of  the  rococo  and  icirofiua  sort,  whirli  ifiVio.  \-uii  tlie 
huniorniis  ioi[U'e»ifui  tiait  the  lo»akjtd)<d%Jcer^  (tiiat 
i<  to  sav,  tlie  coijft'ctinni'r^)  nf  tta.-a  pcrirMJs,  Ih*- 
tween  16t)U  and  178(c  li.id  turntMi  ar-liittMa-:^.  ajid  liad 
br<jiii!ht  into  thrir  lii-w  prcd^'r^-aai  thr-  dacMrative 
su^ar  de^ip:ns  of  tfMMr  iurniar  trad*'' 

How  >p!f-coritana'd  and  iiajividu.d.  wara  iic.t  raily 
per<;an>  in  hfuHand.  \>in  ai-n  tiod^--  and  anrpnra !  aa:<. 
wa-    naiv    find    aLT^afi    11=    th; ^    ahafvh    -:    \\.a-;.a,nn.       bu 

thc\-  JiV<-d  th^ir  livi-.  iir]  -<)  Hi*o-  di^-d  and  wara 
cnn:n>ra'nt!v  a.in'aM!  to  Uaar  ij!'a\t-.  lirfc  aarh 
trad^'  !aai  it-  t^v.-i-sive  la, -a  alid  hr-rr^  xli^^v  a !'- 
VtC-^  aaiuiaJK'  ^11:^1  r],i\)i»r:iU-\v  Oaaa.-d  wH  h  t  ia' 
(.rjaJrC":-  of  t!a-a-  TF\ah^-.,  la*-  ih.a'k  Oiil  t  n  --  hin!\' 
\V:i.^  a:ir^a.'d  -a;  a.  h;^''-  n:ano-J  wa-K  h.aianta-  aoat 
iilWll  ,i,t:d  hH!•-^^-!:!  <»\-  I  Tha  rjfOtaa.uIb  i)a\\":5  aiat  iKans 
ar;d  ^■■'ar-pa--*'-  a,d 'v*  a'tiseci   hi-  ' --apn  f -^  -  ■  ■   and    -n  id 

wath    tdiC   M'<i'aaia,a m  -J  \\iiii  -n.}^ 


Ida 


'  a :  * 


■  ir.daO,  xvitli    pestle  and  mortnr  and  a  shalafnn  ; 

hildren,    rather    on  kingly    paotad 


^  a.r 


f .  r     f 


with  tht'  nra.d  Shepherd  aid   Ids  sheep. 


A  COLONISING  POWER 


183 


A.k 


T  I  cross  the  ZuJ  ler  Zee  from  Enkhuizen  to  Stavoren 

and  thenaa  Iaj  Fi'i(:<liiiiii  is  t<:)  pa>a  in.to  a  reanni 
very  dilfarant  iif.an  dauth  Iloihiiiii.  It  is  the  n.a.iari;r 
oi  the  Frie^jana  niares,  -where  the  canals  antl  la vta^-s 
broa.deii  out  iiitr*  vaat  h,ikes.  ahva,.}'s  ahaJkjw  Ijut 
}a'd  sea.dike-  llwv  nre  aaihsti  bv  stran;io  vaiiietiea  of 
(a-aft ;-— djalka  and  pidains,  and  others  witii  the  odd'Wt 
oi  technu,'al  nan/tcs,  :ajnsurtin^;  n.owadavs  witli  ni^.,atir- 
Inirges   buid    '•!    ir>>      o.J    ^!ii:    iv^-apinj   ,1   u^^jj     itad 

-.If  ..aas'd   V  a  a    in--   ^'-^  -      ■  ■  ^" 


of    tlie    OiO     k.:<  .,,     |.,..,.<-u     r,.:j     I,..'     ..;.  •     ^a.i: 

aohjiii's.  and  n.a  .- a      •*  -a    en  >   -f.*.,.  ;   tnoa   • 
haroes.     uo..  ^   \*,i.|   ,\'.j  ;.,  {.  iCm  j-anie  >a    jn.  *    jp    ■ 
t  fait  idd,  .10    '  ..  w 


-    '  ^"  a.  p.,.  :  Pis  rPph  -a 

'ii-Oi.     t  »o   p>   o,<nd  ^ 

:     '  •   a    :  .     .    !•    :    .     a.. 
^  aa  I       e  ,p-    a.o  ut  •. 


.s 


t        '! 


stid,,  sin;i  '•.  : 

Jkatdand  ni^a-     ■■ 
aarh  aiid(n     '   . 
thf-  Water     *    ■    • 
na-  ehistaia  a.  >o.^,.,,a   w. 

Cajiiturw-  app,  wi,rpi  lh,)i[a!id  wa-  in  ilu'  n>ivaront 
<''f  'iid,  siafai^^sa  eaeoiii-alaon.  anhi  nra-.ie^'  aa-  ,^-'  p:  ■^- 
^^'h.en  tha  Dairh  ^wviv  jp  ajji-ijiae  ui  our'M'Kaw  fa 
most  af  nhe^e  ■ ;   w  ■       '  \.  -       •  .•  ,  t  » e, 

Xtafdieriand-  :     -  ,  ».  ^    w     .u_._.o    nhisxaa- 

'^■''■^^■^-  -^'  =  -'  =  a*  '  :  ^'p  commerce,  society,  iUid 
aJ^  ^^i^'  ^'^-'  '  ■  -.We  may  ahuu^^  d-aswr 
each  ui  iiiaic  iu\\i:y  Lu  dctaa'  been  a  se]a-,opa^:ajit:»' 
umt,  an  independent  community,  own    p  n  le 


i84  ON  THE  ROAD  IN  HOLLAND 

-     o  ^  -      country  in  general.     This  was  an 

(^r(]oT    of    iLm-r-    in^nrnrl    lar^rlv    bv    the    nntural 


^,  *    ^    i   1    ; 


1  *■  '  ^         j 


«'.M  rr^n ! rii N rui '.iT 


If       't  1  ;  1 


^^v  the 

i    '    !    <    I    I  I    I    i 

^f  -aril 

d  that 


in 


LUiliC     '^f  I 


lit  t  P 


ari'i    f 


:  i    ! 


i 


1    *.    1    '    6      *      t        " 


t  r 


'}■■->■ 


>'     n     til 


fMiglish    tou 


i  fie 
in 


'.Si  I     J     \ 


<■  4.   i   i  "    1 


1  •      '  ■  '  '      I  •  •  • 

(AUvT    pllbiic     bunOingS,    IL    i;5    llUf,     rar 

ce  any  one  \ 


■|in-:;5PQc:p:;;    Hr^'   '"]Vlr    nf-i',^  ^'c* 


q. 


Pi - 


n   :i    I 


let!    hp-iru 


■^  '  1  .  !   ,       *    f 


p^  smaller  continent 


ai  luwns — 


o 

'  J  irpose.     n 


;  I  •! 


-11, 


imes, 


"5     , 


■ '  H  i  :-3 


^^-^'i'    ^i'-    ^^Trar    r^o-t,    aiid   liul    oiLuii    Willi    aul 

-u^r^'v.^,,  ha.v.-^  UiiprnTomrn-i^^  >H^r.n  p:a:iG  which  have 
>ome  --I't  .-I  ■i:ap:\',-  ^'^^  tj;,..,,  .iivfi,^  of  ours  ; 


illVv 


C  I  X  i  ■    i   ^  !        V 


a  ■ 


II'''    }-:i!nj     . 


i.     ifi    ria- 


"r     f  1 


(:t|>pi  ..^ita  >l 


hi']: 


r'lf. ,.  f 


i  ,1 ,  u 


A'    I',. 


pprifro    Pn^    hpp|T 

va-^      xaonse  and  much 
cUijuate  liiii  Ui  di;v  shaptj 
-*    naU;       n      •  jh    f.f  Birmingham  is, 
Ha-  pniat'  instance. 

ri.  Hi  lias  same  'ii-^rict  of  Frieshml, 


.•;r  I  T 


. i  ,  t- 


'let  on  a  house  ;  '   / 


s  i  ■    u 


>> 


rTajUD 


^p. 


jj\     a 


') 


\  I  a 


»> 


Thn   onifijial 


Ml 


pk. 


-i^illP"    ••''   ,      V       J'~ 


z^  [?:Tnantrvrfiaa'' 


'  y'. 


'!»»" 


3'PC 


r  •'''I' 

'Pjn_rr 


:*{*' '  *  •,  hi  ■"  ^ilBi  -•  a' 


'  ^  fc,,***^ 


V 


"1  1 


^i*' 


,^.....^. 


g 


BO  LS  WARD 


187 


house 


let  term  a 


H' 


:„1  i  i  . 


ciiariiiJh!j    ..'■ 
paved    -Trt-i> 
and  a  H!.-:ii-.  ' : 
BoiswarJ  ri.:,„ 


r, 


evidently  by  the  style  of 

find  a 
brick- 
rlean, 


_"_l    a 


>v4 


S    -i, 


■^T-r^s.  ^ 


A    CAN  A".   >TR£LT,    BuLSWARD. 


but  its     ' 

cientiy   p!     :- 

ornate  and  :  *  . 


r     t  declares  tli  *     if,   indeed, 

,  it  is  perfectly  h..;..  v  and  -affi- 


?1li«'^     ^viiich     ID     Hi) 


a  ^ 


1  V 


'      .       !  .  »  '  *     4 


\e 


' .  f  4     ;  . 


i88 


ON  THE  ROAD  IN  HOLLAND 


of  a  former  mTatn^s?,  Ilio  Sauihua-^  w;i^  IjuH'' 
ai  a  soiii»nvh,it  later  [>ta-i-a,  lUil^ln.  ^ina  r-  m  ifie 
FleiJii>h    Viinetv   of    Kenaissniiro    arianti^rrnfr;*.    ha;!^ 

(as    ot    course    lai     fLoidriO)    '.a"    laru-:  -  riMi     bnt.k, 

witii  stone  spanaaiv  u,-fa.  Ta*.at-'  is  un  fafi^r 
I\rriai>Suau"e     l)iii'fa]!;a     iii     Vrio^l.iiid     >f»     iir:o.      j'hc 


sta'cix'   -tairs   leaajria   aa   !(■»   ta^   iaaiorice   liaaii   t 


.  c 


street  are  tia,aaed  av  i'\,i\>nr:it- 
enihola-li-ti  writi.  iMa-e^,-.!  -,a-\a>-'  i 
later  st}1a.  Jn<h'!'a,  Tr.*;  -aaar^  "^f^oui  tn  r)o,  hq  a  aln-e,', 
toaether  w-ra  tiif'  laeaa  — tciaad!^a:>  ana  ta«ar  aiaa'r.,s 
and  liie  (e_naoas  r-^taa^<'a>t=  fKiia-trr-.  ;.  \\i>r\{  of  te^ 
FOfa  H'oj  p(-TU)(L  It  •<  aaafa!"  f^  iaNiaa-o  these 
n^oa.eat-f  hajif--.  tir.-~iaa*-'i  -^  daiiaUaa  wai;  Th*'U' 
ren.arkaJia.'  -atva-  fitter-;,  l-ivaia  wah^a-o^.d  te.» 
^'•i^ioona-  ^a  aa  oavar-.ar  pM^, ;;:,;;  ..t^  well  in  ad  Uio:-.a 
^"Oiirs  nt   rhtar  i'Xe^aaa.a'. 

i  rern^nid-r  Bnl-wsird  --  ra:at-ed,irh"  a'ell  because 
of  >evera!  intaiiata  tiaa--  ilm'^.  haas-  iHaiaaa  tu  do 
Willi  a.  red  aa  re  tare  (a'  antiaaira/>.  dha.  u;:-  ra.^  'ael.t 
of  a  man  mi  tha  -tr.^ra  wjta  aii  irraavan.i  LaiTuw. 
T  saw  liirn  thrMa.ad!  idir  aantiosv  nf  tht^  warm  room 
td  en  hor-d  \\aM"a•^■  f  \w-  takina:  '^  ^■'Ui^  <a'  r/ay..^^ 
ilu  haa  Oh  a  .-trnav  ,n,a  ami  u  a  a-O'  an»/a  aitaivei, 
for  it  w<i>  rariv  >afwd'-  and  !e-^  ,a!  ^aa'  iro,.  Aaid 
^oaaa  '-a-'la  -aaaa-!'  and  jczlisid.ij  daaeea  dcua  iiul, 
It  as.m  n,ow  extrara^/iv  en]d^  wi^a  -onietlaaa  like  snow 


iaidna,     N^stiiam  >^' 


«  a: ;.  i  a  ♦ 


iiliked 


1  i 


xng 


ire-erearn,      flee;    })<ii-,;d    a'^^'idna^    wrajid    aa^'f    dean 
mere  likeha     But,  altn'niaa  u.-  a,.L'a:reani  ii^.m  dad  .1, 


50ISPF^i?D 


189 


Ted  nose  from  the  cold,  and  shivered,  he  was  not 

uniiappva     lie  knew  the  quality  of  ta-   an.d;   boy, 


STADHUIS,   BOLSWAED, 


who  IS  as  '■ 

lie      Suid      III 


"  grown-up." 

.     :    because, 


..*ii  J  i^'-'.*  >> 


igo 


ON  THE  ROAD  IN  HOLLAND 


the 


t  <  :,r 


n      I 


S  ?  f  !  -  f    !   I 
C>  t  J.  i  1  4  I  i 


IjI'I'-XIQ 


r  f '> 


f 


uas    the    season 


-hjr'Q    and     Ip'i^n^     rif:^i 

111-      l'.,ir,:      Ul       I  ill'      plo- 


I  iu; 


1 1 1  I  *       \,„. '  1, 


p^^OI'iit'    w 


*■    ^  -,         "Y*         ■■** 


'  J  }   -^  I 


'•'■r  remenil 


?> 


]r]rr     f^ni=:\\',< 


has 


i    )  i  ■.  '^ 


.  i   1  i     .1 


rMi\- 


^  )i   i/i/Uf--^p,   m 


vT  : 


t  1  I         fjiti  ', 


1-  '  "^        tit 


s  t     i  f 


^     i  i,  !  .^       C*. 


iid 


.:-fc:i.^ 


'.' !  -;  I 


^1  't  •! 


1        ?■  ^ 


i        ♦ 


ui^v   were 
1  I  silence  ; 


pf  [  eches  '')    and 


> .- 1 


II iU^rpret  'L    means 
away,     ii  timy  h;.. 

they  COlliii   ha\'e    f' 

i^'i-eks  are  nf  a   liappmci;:^  in.u   u^'iK'^^  r-ofip 
a       n        Ii   vV!  had  beei 


I    5 «  - 


--7 

-     a,l,a 


I     r   T'l 


!'  i  ^ 


\  * 


ii> 


?    M    '   ;  j     \\ 


i  I 


4.  ^  .    i  . 


'!    J-^  ■! 


J.*    dii'M. 


1  (        I     ,       :        ;         ~'l 


!.;« 


to  proceed  r 


I       k,  '--^ 


ek. 


«jli-i'I:' 


.Hid 


':''-:  on  itself  as 


L  1  i '. '  li 


i   1   ? 

..i  i  »  . 


Ul  L    * 


i  i         L  L.j '-.         I,  '_'  Li  i  i  I  ;    ■  !..'•■ 

1     J    ;  i     *    '    '      f      i  i       ^  *     !     *  f    :  t        i  ■      '     , 


■.■•fit 

some 

and 

Sneek 

region 

SNEEK 


IQI 


I;  X  a  :  i ;  I ) ! 

i 

I  =  »      i  1  i  t;  1 
I  i'l'     T'C  'i;  s 


?  I 


r  ve  a  paradise  for  a  frequenter,  for 
iu  the  Norfolk  Broads.  Mere  is  joined 
f>y   canals,   and  it  is  easier  to  go  from 

place  by  sailing-boat  than  it  is  lu  travel 


ne  of  the  principal  naviga- 


WATER-POORT,  SNEEK. 


tions,  and  on  the  Sneeker  Mere,  is  a  busy  little  town. 
Its  name  sounds  unpleasant  to  the  English  ear, 
}i)u  pronounce  it  phonetically,  or  in  the 

It  >tili  keeps  OIK'  of  the 


V\  ii 


tiiiiiiiier-  ''  Sniik 


.:i  * 


I  i.i 


many    pirturesuiit- 


^    s 


■^-h.   %..  V'  , 


itself 


192 


ON  THE  ROAD  IN  HOLLAND 


i5  di-apijiniiunu'.  nirgely  Ducau^t'  wi-  30on,  travelling 


iil 

t  i 
I  i 

i-  ' 

t  5  '  ^  t    ■!  -     J    ,  t 

dp 

nl 

nf 

,! 

f !    , 

in; 

i 

! 
r  r ? 

p|, 

>  t' ' 

irt 

^f 

rile    . 

^    f    » 

'U' 

;  ?■ 

.   1 
'  1 

,r;nr 

Hi 

+     r 

»  ' 

}   ': 

i>iii'.^ 

r  •  t  \ '    I  » 


1 1  f  I 


■^    t  h  ''  ^ 


r  j     n  "I  :  1  i  ■  I ! 


U  ■  1  L!      I  '\'      Hi'';! 


t         \\ 


I      t 


v\  lI:'i 


i.'i 


ing  uiiUA 


ii'sW^ 


lae  rollick- 

v-fmrr^  without  the  nhl  ta-n^  ;  and  I  bey 
f  xtraordinary  t  xh    1  m   n    .1   arables  with 


open 


OiaV"     Ml; 


ul      I) 


illars 


Liia  L 


*la!iir„    ana    d^^-a'anxti   swags   that 
seeia   1(1   iia\a   1m  uu  either     ae  designs  of  ciiildren 

nr  the   \'isinn>  «  f   ;aa"'^^ar;aa''^ 

In    I  ad  ii  jiH  Miaek  is  remarkable  for  nothing. 
A   "bri^l'-pavar!   road.   Tvitli    an    nvoniif^   for   na.--"    a^f 

I  a -a  villages  without  speciai  a        re 


J  t  ■ ' 


and  alitor- 


rdeii 


4-4.  I  i  V,  i. 


T-  '*-    fTT-rp  wi'l  "h^  "^nn^d.  oa'^^^  ni  the 


a  Tirana    .1    ;>ubui'b    ui    -^uiiiC 

:,>ar~-    :••  '-a-^tahan  a,     laa*     otherwise 

liul  ^t[■lkiIa/.      l:iat  if  }'uU   Wid   Uava    lUc   La^i'-X.''    ^a-- 

Spara  tiia  lun^! 

I^jdd^   iLaa-a/,a/   {jriw^^'ru   Ma,;rk    aaa 

quear  old  place  on  tho  road  fo  nowLeic  bui  lu  ilc^elf, 
T  r,ari  already  referred  to  in  these  pages. 

„.{     a     ;-,     \h     priUl    "    GrOUW,"    but    it    •_::>    liUl 

r,  t?.^  a-wr  iiicf  that  ia   -a^^^ffh,     Tfi  a>ViTi[^  a  Frinc;- 

a=:  ha;  '^  1  lan-.ir,  "  -'^a   aou 
rpf  n^  near  the  InajS   {a-.;itaata.;t,ti')ii  as 
ai  Ka^lishmaii  t.i  d-a  aaid  \"'-;. 
i:    you    piaaa.aiiicu    il    u^ 


i.,t.-    u  ti  V     lU   it,    ii-'- 


wUi   a"    ijiii'i' 


i  V        i 


I  Mj---i  !  I 


t    .     :    1• 


>     ■'    ■    ,     I    t    •    f~ 
L   i.  }^'  ...i.  "■'--    ^     - 


u'ju. 


'-1. 


STAIBCABE  TO  THB  STADHUIS,  BOLSWABD. 


.  <"■<■«•  WxiUIV. 


ON  THE  ROAD  IN  HOLLAND 


-^95 


you  will  be  answered  ''  Ik  kan  het  niet  begrijpen," 
which  means,  literally,  ''  I  can't  grasp  it/' 

Grouw  stands  on  a  mere,  not  interesting  in  itself, 
but  forming  a  charming  picture  from  the  water. 


XXI 


Friesland,  with  one  exception,  is  not  that  part 
of  the  Netherlands  where  you  will  find  quaint 
costumes.     That  one  exception,  an  astonishing  one 

f  ilitj  -trano^er,  is  the  old  fashion,  still  greatly 
f  iJowoil  by  the  middle-aged  and  older  worn  f 
u  \  illao^e  and  peasant  class,  of  wearing  the  ooryzer, 
(H  J  ;  )  fi  heiniet.  This  h  in  the  nature  of  a  skull- 
12  in  t  ie  of  thin  plates  of  gold  and  fitting  exactly 
to  tiie  back  of  the  head  and  coming  almost  to  the 
luicli^-a*].  To  wear  this  ancient  covering  it  is 
necessary  i.^  the  hair  to  be  cut  close.     That  is  the 


day  u 

i 

16    WijVl 

dresse 


:1  Q<- 


n  whv  tlip  vniinu  women  of  the  present 
J  I  follow  this  ancient  custom.  At  each 
e  golden  helmet,  above  the  ears,  are  d  1 1- 
u      of  the  same  metal.     Over  the  id 


lace  cap.     Unc  of  these  astonishing 
cost   2,000   guelders,    or      >     ;^ 
-t  ul  tlicm  are  heirlooms,  handed  down  for  g 


■  >     ilk 


tions.     Thn-n   who   hove  not  been  able  to   afford 
tht  uo!d  f     /  (3r  will  have  a  silver  one. 

'-;.:. arkable  lack  of  taste  and  under- 


Uii^-"" 


iq6 


ON  THE  ROAD  IN  HOLLAND 


. » ^  »-«..  j.  ->  ~ , 


>  ^c  i  li  these  old  vu  n  „  i  _r  to  market 
not  merelv  in  tljeir  strange  pnnnply^  but  with  the 
h    :     *  and  its  covt    ;   -  lace  caj)  -t  i         "  !ier  crowned 

b\    >Miiir,^    ia:^iy   old    black   boTiuul   ot    rh-    tii^sHiful 


type  u-  I  i!!;  wih  hy  low  comedians  m  pantomime. 
Th-^^^  ancieiu  lames,  however,  cuiiMdcr  ihe  effect  to 
be  rather  -^  ■  ely.  Tl  ^  in  the  \  Hlage  street,  or  on  the 
farms,  wiien  without  their  dppalling  state  bonnets, 
half  n  rlnzrn  of  them  walking  along  glitter  in  the 
^  H:ii„!  I    ia   a  squadron  of  Ho  I  !  T  tvalry  ;  and 

if  you  sec  m  liie  uioiance  on  iiie  lai  -as  some  flashing 
point  of  light  in  the  sun,  like  ;i  ograph  at  work, 
be  vci^  ^ure  that  it  is  not  military  signalling,  only 
someone  wearing  a  golden  helmet  and  catching  the 
sun's  rays. 

Just  as  there  is  nothing  outside  <  >f  England  to 
compare  with  the  winding  English  ro  p  i  m  ■  M  a  riant 
hedges,  ^u  iiieie  ic^  nut  anywhere  eLc  than  in  Fries- 
la  at  any  kind  of  farm  building  quite  like  the  larm- 
stecid-  ill  that  part  of  the  Netherlands.  The  >aXon 
"  ha]]p  "  tvpe  of  farmhouse  is,  however,  a  distant 
cousin   '-  n:-".. 

I  sav  Ur  Atherlands  "  ndvisedly,  not  '' Hol- 
la a  i  ecause  although  Friesland  is  a  province 
of  tiie  ii!  jiuai  of  Holland,  and  nut  easily  to  be 
daan.,a.a-L.-a  a;/  Um'  -^ranger  from  the  rest  ^n  Hi^.t 
la^^ararna  \-^;t  th-  1 1'.* •  liinan  who  i>  ;.  i^'risian  v;i[l 
nta:  -a'/;.'  laa:M.-!^  n  *'  H'41ander,"  uh>\  ai^ni  hf  leaves 

V,"  as  with  a 
.  u   :>uie  it)  for  the 


a  n^atiaaii 


■vance  t-r  an^ 

liL)lii>iii    hi:    \a 


■J.    {•*• 


\ 


\ 


:( 


o 

o 


THE   "HAYSTACK  HOUSE" 


199 


south,  he  speaks  of  "  going  into  Holland."    Even 

so,  a  W  1  iiman,  and  some  Cornishmen,  travelling 
from  their  rnvn  parts,  will  be  "  going  into  England." 

Tiius  we  see  that  the  Frisians  are  a  people.  They 
!i:ivt  a  lancmage  of  their  own — "  FrieRrh  " — and 
customs,  and  a  sturdy  independence  ;  the  heritage 
ui  olden  times.  For  "  Friesland "  means  "  Free- 
land."     It  loliows  then  that  Friesland,  which  is  that 

^'  !  Ui  X  therlands  extending  north-east  from 
h.  liM  f  heni  shores  of  the  Zuider  Zee  to  the  borders 
ni  tin  \*i  i  Germany,  must  have  many  individual 
features,  tiiiui  among  these,  to  the  eye  of  the 
traveller,  is  the  characteristic  ''  boerderij,"  or  farm- 
house. !X  11  the  least  observant  person  cannot 
fail  lu  Ik  impressed  immediately  with  the  ''  haystack 
house,"  which  is  the  essential  shape  of  the  Frisian 
larnh  use.  The  absolutely  flat  and  sparsely-wooded 
character  of  tlie  landscape  itself  lends  an  extra- 
orduiai)  jjiominence  lu  lIiu^dc  buildings  of  so  peculiar 
a  plan  and  elevation.  They  are,  in  their  general 
lines,  all  alike,  differing  only  in  size  and  some  not 
vr!\    iuiportaiit  details. 

This  is  a  vast  pasture  land  of  dairy  farms,  peopled 
with  laiiiiers,  and  unmingled  with  other  industries; 
and  lilt  dyke-divided  meadows  are  teeming  with 
cattle  of  the  famous  black-and-white  Frisian  breed. 
Fow  thiniT-  arp  more  certain  than  tha^  in  this  land, 
coming  past  the  many  little  wayside  inns,  you  will 
see  frequently  the  signs  of  the  "  Boute  Koe  "  or  the 
"T^  ate    Os,"    which   mean   the    "Spotted   Cow" 


200 


ON  THE  ROAD  IN  HOLLAND 


or 


Lilt. 


"> 


>» 


rrj[u.yi  ^  ^x  "  :  ^n  iu'^..:u\  always  ar-  liie  folk 

if;.- 'Test. 


u-ui  this,  thei; 


'    T'  i 


{  !  ;  i  ^1 


■    M  i  •      M  *  '  !       • 


oCk>. 


liaystack  or   jr'-n.    !i:j''' 

tiie  uuiuard  and  di-idni  ..:i^u  l-   .i   - 

.T  :-,u,i.^-;\'';  *    *-\-;\t;.i    ill    centuries 


]'_ 


e  outline  is 


O 


TT :  n  -^  1 Q 1  Ti 


r  I '  '■    !  > 


^    ground-p         con 


^   logical 

fi'^T  one 
fore- 


■m.   -»>^ 


SIRTEMA    STATE. 


building  which  is  the  farmer's  dwelling-place,  with 


dr; 


and  living-room  on  either  side  of  the 


M 


xX\A  l.t^-M'fv^m  and  kitch^*n  h^-liind.  lie- 
runs  a  passage  con<in  it  directly 
i-.  la  these  bia-n^  m  a  duuuie  row 
the  ca  T-  hen  not  in  the  meal  -  their 
•  varj  the  outer  walls;  and  in  moT  r  n- 
hnucjpc;  \hvw  i?  a  window  to  each  ainiiiaL  In 
11    Liii  i  the  CO  ;j  lady  who  pays  the  rent,  an  I 


tu 

.Cf: 


1 


;   H,   M 


■*?!"9W!*^ 


i/OPF  THE  COWS  ARE  HOUSED 


201 


is  therefore  treated  with  respect.        Nothing  in  this 
neat    aini    i    asewifely    country    is    more    amusing 

tbaii  In  sei'  tiidl  ti*  oaeh  window  is  generally  a.  Hnie 
Ian  i  ii  i.  daintily  finished  off  with  a  lace  border. 
J  ii  1  \  -  UNitaliy,  in  this  land  where  corn  is  not  una  h 
growii  u  i  straw  is  therefore  scarce,  lie  a  out 
straw  ijtjJding,  on 
iaiak  lioors,  some- 
wliat  hollowed  to 
V...  .-i.ape,  ^  They 
>''  it,  just 
Japanese 
pt't-iaa  are  so  ac- 
a  ai  i  to  wooden 
hi' (kR  for  their 
instead  of 
1  hat  they 
hi  no  discomfort ; 
and  ju>r,  presum- 
aiMw  ;is  the  crimmal 
sets  used  in  a  long 
twin  oi  imprison- 
ment  tc^   '  "■• 


a.r 
as 


fa- 


ll i '  .'  s  >► 


FINIAL   TO   FARM    ROOF. 


i'-  r 


'       ,  lank  bed. 

riiu  cow-stalls  a  passage  conducts  directly 
ara  if  hay-barn.     TI  y  is  always  stored  in 
aiji  roofs  instead  of  in  stacks  in  the  open. 
ih  '  wide  overspreading  roof    ^f  this  barn 
a  :   iilso  the  many  incidental  items  of  the 
taismess  :  carts,  ploughs,  harrows,  etc.     The 
i  laslaial    farm   has  nothing  in    the    nature  of  a 


mt( 


V  »    I  M 


raiir- 


2C2 


ON  THE  ROAD  IN  HOLLAND 


muddy 


lii 


q     'hn  fif"]  - 


Tlie  i'fi' 


w 


V  -]      !ch  as  in  France  and  England, 
Uiiure  lies  in  heaps  and  the  farmer  and 

,  ^^.y,,:h;r,n,  aKHjiii  ill  filth.     Every  little 
•^  :  Jiness  is  thought  out  here. 

H  niigj  iui  iiii,Lance,  of  the  cow-stalls  is 
to  a  central  gutter,  and  in  the  constant 
.  L  I-  a  feature  in  all  the  Netherlands, 
in  PVPTY  r^.'^rnrtment  of  life,  the  farm  manure  is 
re<:  1  t  ;  ;  i  ;  tate  and  stored  in  tanks,  and  in 
that  c  J.  ill  1  11  is  afterwards  distrihiited  over  the 
fields. 

1:..:;  ycL'^uaL  ujju  of  farming  economy  is  derived 
f^  *'  '  -— '^^  s  of  the  country  ;  a  land  where  the 
>  u  iti  ;^  f  and  severe,  where  it  is  not  possible 
in  thoQp  nini.iLL:^  to  adventure  much  out  of  doors. 
Each  -tead  is  then  like  a  besieged    fortress 

:  }'  with   fui  Li  esses   expecting  to   be   be- 
they  are  all  well-provisioned  against  the 
Tilt  re  i>  very  little  going  on  out  of  doors 
a^rTi    nv  "rt  it  be  for  the  favourite    P  ^   • 
^'-  ^''  skatinj. 
liio^t  oi  tiiese  farmhouses  the  farm  hands  sleep 
in  the  cov -h    ]        ^  if;  the  smaller  and  old  r  ones 

family  may  fcUii,  as  in  a  more 
in  !i    :     u     My  they  did,  use  one  end 

-i^^  "  ■>  n*  tii6  Dutch  paiiiters 

prp-piir   11. f    Holy  F-^-i>v  in  a  stable 

-  .  0  lines  :  "Scripture,  seemed 
u  tri   a  imary  domestic  interior. 

\vould   nowadays    be   unthinkable 


and.    t 

at  t^'^ 


the    fii 

simple 

I.) i  i i..  (I 

of    (jid 

or 


I  Li  -I  1  '    4.         i  i  ,i 


!    i    > 


i    I  \% 


!  )      I 


THE  FARM  ROOFS 


203 


in  n  ^     ^iiduct  of  farms  in  other  countries,  but  in  the 

X  It  r  in  i  is  not  so  remarkable,  having  regard 
I  r}]f  t  x:  rdinary  neatness  and  cleanliness  pre- 
^      :;  -       N  frequently,  indeed,  ailing  and  tuber- 

^  ;i.  !.i  iiiiaren  are  sent  into  the  country  from  towns 
t)  li\<-  in  the  cow-stalls  of  these  wonderful  farms, 
and  :;;u  gain  health  by  inhaling  the  sweet  breath 
of  the  cows  and  partaking  of  the  generally  fragrant 
warmth  of  these  interiors. 

T?  *  n es  of  the  typical  barn  and  cow-stall  roofs 
i  u  n  to  within  some  seven  or  eight  feet  from 
liie  i^r^niiin.  They  are  thatched  roofs,  generally 
of  ret  I  i?  :  the  thatch  usually  comes  down  to  about 
r  three  feet  of  the  eaves,  the  intervening  space 
I  rniT  rovered  with  pantiles.  This  is  not  so  much 
a  fashion  as  a  plan  in  connection  with  catching 
thp  lain  water.  The  roofs  being  of  so  great  an  area 
and  s^»  |)  a  pitch,  a  large  quantity  of  water  is 
thus  gat :._icd  and  very  quickly  thrown  off  at  each 

it  is  greatly  prized   and  conserved,  for 


c;  n  o 


)wer.  0,11' 


n  a  .  \  i ' " 


ainds  generally,  and  in  Friesland  in  par- 

i  iciilh.  i  1  liiiough  the  country  is  so  waterlogged,  drink- 
in^  Walt  r  i  scarce,  and  rain  water  is  commonly  used 
iui  d  ^-uici^.c  purposes.  There  are  few  wells  or 
-'Teams,  and  outside  the  towns  scarcely  ever  a  water 
upi a  Reeds  for  thatching  do  not,  as  a  rule, 
^f  rna  Ironi  the  dykes  and  canals  which  are  plentiful 
afaaa  I  tjiQ  farming  districts,  but  from  reed  farms. 

la-i  as  the  type  of  roof  is  so  little  varied,  so  also 
are   tfie  gable  ends,   always  finished  off  with  an 


204 


ON  THE  ROAD  IN  HOLLAND 


■l♦'^^l•  finial  in 


1?-, 


with  a  "  swan- 


nec^c  "  '  i-'':f.  [iiui  nni   uiirornr.i' .rny  with  the  bwans' 
Leacis  dul\^  nutiiiifMJ  ;i':i|  p.j-.N^d  wi'h  eyes  as  well. 

Th-    H!ih>!'i!arv    (i^-raii-    i=i     rh-    d.-^  > 'r.d,  ■- ^h     fxhd,)it 
rnnvr   fivvihyiii   liiid   indivirlnaiitw    but  they  tL 


t   i         f  ;  i  1  ■ 


.  *:"      l2 

ant 

'"r^if>  i- 

■  h  1  T  f 

K   L  X    &.   i. 

iru-' 

nearlv 

aiw 

a  v'"" 

moiiiiti; 

■j    w 

r  a 

f-jf  prrn't- 

;  ^' 

1 .  i  a ', 


f  f 


I  la'' 


s 


.  T 


i  I  >. 


LUL 


1")'  '.if '  i  ',r^' '  -" 

i- 

*  .    ,       ^  ,    .  "l 

\  •    !    ,v,  1    ■    \  i     1 

^       L  I    i    .     ■         i    ^     I,    i 

Th-    flat. 


arc  peculiaij  and 
th«    same     vf^e.     They  are  sur- 

d  -i  iiiulik,  ydrilv  fortlia  parpose 

a  1    a  a        lo  make  it  nnpossible 

a,a.-i  I  a. -a  huge  nests  ol  >nrks  in 
*^  storks  are  discouraged  Fhey 
ii  lud  lucky  ;  and  a  iuaiiuu  iii  the 
ta  ^dl  post  on  farm  or  common, 
he  storks  to  nest  there,  ra  the 
ahi'-h  tdipqp  posts  are  prn vided. 
accessory  is,  ^^\  a,=-:--.^-,  -l^-^  [^.a'-'-an. 


■*■  f       ;        ,      f'^'  t* 


i  'k^       aO 


^ai     tJiiULi 


u 


an     t 


idea. 


A  ■  t--*  ; 


aara-'ly    of    this    cubluinary    ie..r 

I,  he   strariLT'^ra    1-;^'    the   arra  air  anient  is 

Jd.   ii    Ilia    aataii^    ale    inuaad   laughable. 

hniaarhi/'  as  it  is  called,  consists  ^i^hor  of 
!,   or  not,   accord     J    fo  in       dual 
!a,'   !-w]s  aro  oi^her  coor^^^d   a(i  «>r  arc 
V  ad  a  at  will.     But  in  any  ca  ay 


"'■K '  ] : 


T  i  i     r 


UU. 


among  the  timbers 


Ui 


barn 


t'     ■** " 


;.  J  i  ;^  ^  ;   '        <  *,  i  a.     1 


]i><('f' 


Cf-'?^ 


|,  / 1  i,  k 


the  morni^iir     Tlie  amusing 

lied  plane, 


i     :,  t,  »    >    i    1   I    1 


ta  as  little  staircase,  or    a 

t  I     ho  naves  from  the  o^mard   up  the 

dvvays  daintily  made,  and  may 


1 1 


i^ '  i  i)  ii 


r-f-   i:~r  « 


.  •--*/»/■?  ijf  i 


e 


lnt\M  ^;  a..  ■-:^..^' 


4\ 


\ 


1 


W 


ai 


ft. 


W 
o 

H 


o 

o 
n 

M 

O 
H 
QQ 


HOW  THE  FOWLS  GO  TO  BED 


207 

be  enclosed  within  brightly  painted  sides  or  equally 
gay-looking  palisades.  If  solid  sides,  instead  of 
pan?  i^ing,  the  woodwork  often  will  have  little  glazed 

^^^-^^-'  ^^ese    windows    are    placed    here    vt^^^ 


THE  HINNEEIN. 


■f  "• 

Slir:;,u  : 


'  <■    s_--'  sL  \.^        j-  4  i         '.,*.* 


tli-  ' 


the  fowls  to  look  from.  It  is  the  last 
ite  consideration,  and  compares  with 
hich  gives  the  cows  windows  furnished 

;-J  blinds. 


20& 


ON  THE  ROAD  IN  HOLLAND 


Tcuhtur 


|.^ 


!         HMilt'^-'! 


Fri^'>ia!;'i     f:ni;.     rirchifeeture    exfiifHtc     few     a.nd 
iiuii~tj>>'jiitiul    i:i:-jnaes    ill     U;-     im-'a  iy  i,.in:t     farm- 
ho'isf^^.     You    IhhL     it    i^    t!"u.»\    tliat     th*/    riiodern 
farrnei'  does    n*'*    c^.ni.Ui^r.^v    h-.^-    ii..   ajn"   t-xtt-it    m 


t!a' 


*      (■;j\','->t.l! 


The      laf^JtT      ?'l'i       ia!'!hhuli5U5      iiUVC 


:>rii!    ^i;o:-.=    i-uri''ir^    tstM  ir.  H  a: .:-    rha.!     wri'f    {■nr<'    an 

irjva''iablt'    ftMturc    •>!    dall.a-'H-    hir    ill   r\-(.-l\'    htratUiii 

<,-■  ilaaai  -«jaie*  v  :  ih"-^  b-arnnni-  wh^r^  von  ^ro 
i,!j  tHMi>ta;.ai- :  \^■fi^  !♦•  th^'  fann!\'  raaa'tn.  ai*  ]r.'ij 
p]:pl)na!'d>    lur    tli'*    fa-ii^    ihM.    tia,'jr    li^ixan/.!-.    aad 


luhiir 


i    H    M    1 


t^  aial'"^  a    ;;|  h  as 


I-       in 


n-r 


close' i    thv 

Wi.aia.  Ih  lie/  iin-iva'a  ha  fii'e ai-.a  ;ii,.a  'alaai.  i[.,  UiC 
(,id  lilies  \v|:rrt'  tfa.'  ra'i''-iait  a'^aMa-aii' ai  iiavt.-  iiv-fn- 
date  idea-,  tlie  UeiLtecei  iU  the  rueau  lt:-eii  IS  IiuW 
seeia 

Tie     IT*  le  I  a    lav out   of   a   new    farmhouse   will, 

h'aet'\ea',     b'-    <je     tlie^-r    Tf/juai^aaii    hat--    \\  laidi    f:a\'e 

htM;a'i  iuiaai,  a'.."^'i  and  eiiii"'d\-  iJa,'  a^.  anauaie-T 
ua-dran  aiiu  [a*a.:aa.al  expeiieiH''-  vl  Ida  af..=a!da-\a 
Th-  dhj^rrcitiaai  faa^eof ''  ^'r^-ieai  St;ite/'  at  lvna<duni, 
ia--ar  Mai'S-iirie  -h.ows  the  u^aea^ii  a,pa*eiraari;  uf 
the  h(.a,i-;f^  an  a  !ar-e  raHloTa-aadiiia  dtien.  Jt  '^-^'as 
built  ill  llHiO.  aral  a^  a:  t'\".aa-  r.-pe<:t  jiaMdaea,  l.d:^  ~ 
hjliiilhu:  a-  il  d<ae^  tu  lliC  ira-tai-;.  ih   Ida^   x'ei'V"  WvulllLy 

Idapta,  cliantu':-.  it  vae-  aivr'aM,!  d'Mia  ai;  aiU|ha  purse, 
and  i-  in  iiO  war  ^ta.rarh  But  exaapt  a,aialiy  m 
tliia  f.a.iH(liiiii'.  altlaauijri  d-  hja/-  are  tlie  {)Ui  eeaiven™ 
tiuna!  iM\e<.  tha  read-  er-  wdaalv  tded  wai  fi  pantiiee 
m-tead  uf  beiiiir  Thateh.t'd.     T!a.»  three  tail  rod^   seen 


GENTILITY 


209 


'   !      :     t 


roofs  are  those  of  lig^htning- 

a    prornjiieid-    feafuj-e    m    these 


an  ran  man 

tajUA  hit  dors,    u>a,t, 

(Iiatricts  :    M  u     .  - 

the  gable  erai^     ■.^  /  \     e,na!and^-d    a-aaern.,a^^   hi 

a  liiiiaL     hleffn  teM>_  at  Sjrten,ni,  the  ecni-s  are  httered 

tkiwii  on  straw,   and   t  i.^y-  la,ar=  nawiraa. 

Bud.  whartwa.:r  n-  .  ,->  .a  -i/v  ^a  thevn  hirms  the 
house  exhibit.;  .  ..  x  ,  ui.^n  r.,  a,,  Knnhadman 
is  liiore  or  Je^e  a  aunaju-  aw-  of  nefdJiife^  Wlien, 
oxamiiiiiii^  oua    uf   tha    hanua,  you  stand    nahnn    its 

Iront    el(:\aira.Wa    U'    ,tt_,ax—    Uaa    -a    i\^.    'h-a-t    dht,-    aUV- 

thiiid  an  Id.ddd-^-in  would  eX|Mnd  a  dinnhou<e 
^^  ^-^*"-  f^  "^  *■'■.■■  picturesque,  aireiy  Jaaj.ahy'- 
lookini!.  lau:  always  with  a.  i:urieu^  preteiita..ma 
formahty,  and  iMnha-ia  u.aa'  Franah  arai  deaad.edl\- 
o!  aai  urban  rathen  tfatj    en'  ;s  rural  nuH,a      w-  a<  rather 


■aU  r?a  n/<'^.i  nUi;  tua 

-•nnir  ianhdnn  hoiiataf 
'•    ahaiudi    ^>i'    ail    rieat 


*.-  ^  ~       «=, 


if: 


W 


a. 


I  < ,  i 


as  though  araiM,.;  typicad  ciiv  nia! 
country  and    h 

a    house   whear- 

bruuvWork    uu' 

door  and   fhtr  u 

through,  tha   a 

farrnei'T  laawa  .0   i   . 

iunvitably  aeeurd<  wdh,  -: 

or    veh\'et"Upfud,at«wt'd    ■■  , 

together  wuth  shuw'}-^  inniM>rs.     YrAi  need  nut  ba  rhar\-^ 

of  glancing  thrrawdi   thasr'   Ireant  wna;,n:.nv>,      Nouane 

ever    is    m    thuae-    laionia,     are.-;.:,    ah^ieetl    it    be    on 

Sundays,  TiH:w  are  state-rooms,  fur  dignity,  rather 

than  tu  be  u^ed.. 


ue  ,     Iiuiit 

-  Glance 

^   y  h'risian 

xtwr  a  Vlu^'h 

at       -.a  ? 


.:-.     Ul     IT 


210 


ON  THE  ROAD  IN  HOLLAND 


n r'nir  southwards,  the  Frisian  type  of  farmhouse 
becomes    a    little    modified.     In    the    Hoorn    and 

I  they  are  more  ornate,  lie 
brass  furnishings  of  the  front  door 
i  polish  ;  the  gateways  and  palings 
r  I  the  thatcl]  is  sometimes  elabor- 
A-  '  le  gardt ii  within  tiuir  moats 
ar  i    with  something  garish,  such 

rr-     or   calceolarias   and   lobelia. 

as  indeed,  most  counuy  houses 


winfiow-  ,iiiii  xi. 

.h:iV^'    InA;rtJ   ^pit-. 
til  *■    \i.'  '''{'   I  '!'! :a  r*' 


M.=^ 


i  i,  1 1 


Ill     fin    Hid,    are    moi'^    I      Hnce    I    contemplated 

aUiig  a  book  on  inoated  houses 


1  r~. 


I.tmg    a'Ld    inu: 
I  - 1  i  ^  i 


1  T. 


I    f 


I    *  Hi 

n 
oil  11 

Iw. 


I  (  r 


r. 


1  •  thn-t  i^  to  say.  T  n^nd^  a  list  of  tlH>ni. 
i  fi    !•  t  isily  make  a  list  of  the  lu!  u  linuses 

i  Til  1^  were  not  moated  and  write  a  }>nnk 
witlio  I  moats  as  the  curious  exceptions. 

^i.uuuu    lliu    iailiiiiUU:^tj^5   ill   Ixuiland   a!r'    not 

n^\  \'0U  cannot  hw  tliat  *■"'';! I'lrr'  r;iiai]i-<  «,.t!)pr 
■M.n-nii.,-.  t'^'om  |,)fiVciti'  houses  ana  --ai-;-, 
vVfi  fi.!;*-  H'^'a  s'hari'lio^.  tl^p^^  oxT^ibit  fw?  f\' 
\'ar;s-y  ot  iav.-Lt_-^f^  from  fauH^'-i  i^eauty  lu^  u^ 
li  ifanTRTii  t:\iravagance.  i  a  ic  is  a  robustious 
iivva..ajaai  ^a:.}  i\t r.^ \;:a:ance  of  outline  in  most  "Da^-'i 
iiiLLaiLLiuiL  uiaLii  m  its  way  iutaiL  iiiu  luiii'  Kia^ 
hurri'-riTz  of  tlw-  peasants  in   •^"'*'' 


Rilar 
Up    t^ 


»■!■ 


i       '  i  > 


Tr 


- 1 "  Tp  .=^.    n  f    "F^'n  n  Z 

ie,  and  Teniers.     The  qii<  a      aia  a  a 

iiiiblp^.  olalmratolv  nirvnr!  and  convoluted,  tiie  aav 
a*      ain^     a        e    wmdow-shutters,    the    bulb-    aiai 

oiiiaa,-ai,M    |.a  *  a  KOrKaiuco  «iiai    nameless  cXLie^seciiueS 
n:   ?a-  *'aaa,a-  ^a^   -a'"es  of  town  halls  .ml  ^aaualies 


A  GREAT  PEOPLE 


211 


ate  -all 


I  ill'" 


results   of   that   rollicking,    boisterous 


CuhL  .-pa  a;   which  is  a  revolt  fmira  aiin 
aaam-l,    i];p    atrrnai    tiatness    aa:aa.       ;.   t- 
tlie  (ajuntr\'  -  i         >•   .      >  .    ■ 


1  1  j        J  ti  i.   t   .         !  1   O  J 


»       _  '    >    „  J  tO  • .  :  ■•       a    i  .  ; 

a  eonscioiiaiiea^  tljai 
negatiofi  oi  scenerj^ ;  that  tinar  ian(, 
ut  tiie  eiaitanahi  (,a  I'nia* 
an  aa?'-  o^.^   a  .  .    ,- 

J\JiJli«'  14 !»'  i   '  a  ',.  . 


,  "i  I 


I    la    aii,a 


i^ 


i  msm ' 


n 


a  u\ai 


•  - ) 


!,  ; 


i  «  .'      ill* 


nji'ie    $ 

no  |'.a%--M'  .      a.  .. 

wall    a    Pa-  .-!.,' 
aii.ii,iLi;i  t  ill  it. 


till'  a  a iMja  1,1 
M 1 1  ]  1  a  i  t"     * '  P  >  J  i  • 

i  '-■•  i-4.  V  aJ  t  >  llci,'«. 


vv  t 


aiiU  so  ladaea 


Ithouffh  Holland  is  t 


ul    Wta, 


And  Pi  iiaiat:,,  a 

tlie     Duicil     cifa     ;-t 

iiiMd.lo  III  if  '  11,  air      .  t'l  ia  . 

('i-    Hi    an  aaaw  ^a-.    is    an    iiai'.Meaka: 
a    soiaetlaaa    which    OWa:,     no    .aa-PiaaL 
iPiiiuaacea. 


iii<{  ii     I.,  v,HUl  ll    \    , 

.aarked    iia- 
a     aauuPiLia' 


a  a  pra^^aaja 


i.v  i  i.  ^.  .1 4 


XXII 


Tx  fla  ar    vat  level  stretches  of  the  northernmost 

lairt   ul   tp.-   .\iaaa.araiai  .la  t!aa  i--       .       tP    :,jrii]Q  find 

countrv 


aa,aav-and^-wp.aa    cattle,   is   an        :    >■ 

^■ioUNe    I     kaa'a ,     It    lies    butweaa    tJiai     -lausu 
iiariingeii  of  which  voiir  tourist  to  iloilapii  b\ 

''}L      liiL      liUUitv^      U.L      Uliivi       |.M-a  ;  Uiiii'      iiiiJUiiiD      a-*!      i.ii)  ijllXJtlK  Ii . 


W;i  17" 


2T2 


ON  THE  ROAD  IN  HOLLAND 


lui^  nev-r  hear^i  ;  and  it  i-  -onir-  tHb^.-n  i  "^  -  '-  .  : ! 
sea.  nut  :-o  fuj  frun!  tii*'  t-rwii  uf  i.*/fn.i\v  '!.■*:  .-,:.- 
i^  tiie  rafntal  uf  I*'rit-].iri-i.  A>'\u,illv  that-  tuwii  i- 
three  iiiiip<  Hi;.taiK.  hut  Hi  ii,i>  rfgiuii  of  ila,i  r-oiHitrxa 
with  few  iiitj-rvriiieg  trt't-Q^  and  >n  r!.s,tr  ;ii.(l  ajulnciit 
a  "^hy,  voii  raij  <f'<»  ihainie  !■<  ahiMt  iiMiliiinfr.^  Tliu\- 
are  tiie  grt-ai  t^ju-^r  uf  e-  ariritau.  raiiiivl!  aia.l  tfi-: 
^oanrai  ^pire  of  tha  ra'^h-rri  lifonaii  CaUealia  ihairclo 


Lfaaiwardtea    rha-    a.qataa     nuoifiara    :-a^!iia  4oa)(Hj 


'*'     '■■-aitr-      of      [hv     oatrhj- 


a 


inhalatarita,      Ir      i-     ti 

liOirkat  iOii  acn\ar;r-:-  Mi 
pe^Jfa-  ihliik  aaai  lajlc  aJMait  iiUj.'  (a:^r'  ihali  !?ill^a 
^p'ertad  hri>iari  kma.  Vou  rcafi  jn  Sh.<jkt-pe;ire 
liuw  ,1  Lrritah  voka  <a  iaiiiurk-  ae  Maaiafura  l;'air  f  "' 
Thua.  aei-:-  au-ra/f  Sjiai 


'  * «'»   a. 


a:-  iM  ai-a  Hi  Ira  ^a-aai'M'- 
skirp  :  riii^i  tilt:  piirtj  ui  Lulllc  a.  faaaiwaa-^iiai  «,>;  ai-ti 
in  khat  feiano  tha  baaiaaina  aiiO  tk'-  taai  ah'  jHaita">a 
iaua.ir'~bu'a-:a — <jr,  at-  aia."  rata.  nnt=  aaaiia-buuk-— 
wouk.i  iia\a_-  u<  hfkjj^ia'  1  .f.-awa  ['kfai  m>  Ijp  a  '"  dreary" 
tijwaa  loat  i-  a. a  >u  :  it  j^  ,;  avt-kv^  !^a\aa  aarj  ijuaint 
and   baautitaJ.     Aaa    a^    i-  a   araai  of  ri^hiur..   waiiaii 

}e:aj  eoaia  apa  ^,;-.a  1:':L''-']\\  rka,t  -Utki  Orar,.-.  ...a  \aikl 
ap'.k:ea  or  a-  laa.:a  aiai  laurar-''  kt  pu^^iu^bark.  Tkav 
ara  ^irvy  arri  \vad;^:-ra.]  ;  aa^-''--aa  a!id  haaaar'k  .X(,^\a. 
le:'-a.vvaaM-ii  :~  .a  least  a-  -;a.  aa^  tk-  :-aj  lias  not 
da/tl  uur.  ra-  U'  ,  K  k  O'*!;  -,;0,  ?a-a"  ar*aa  nor  aaekaaHak 
I    kave,    h*aa^aa.a\    aa     O-N'-aaa    a^aamM-    t,,    p,-,    s^^'iik 

tovvii5,  but  uark  ria-  a^aaaiaa  I  :oa  -ftaaa  aa  a^at 
a«  a  trnifd^  !i',aaa  a^  Ir  "•■'r^,  i-ai  lu  ,i  laO'  k.  -^-aiarrx-- 
iiuaae^  atavaip  wna  iiitiidc  a  k^a  .k'la,a'ak  a-i   iiaia- 


HOW  THEY  TALK  ENGLISH 


213 


aMif'   '■•!   lo^'-     a 


itia    r,      .,^  .ite 


vour   (  u>t.>a.    i- 


r-f 


lisli.  speak  ai\'  kioaaage  with  fluenc}a     It  h  true  1  Lat, 
hke  ail  hjivjon-a-,  and  even  like  th     ■ 

tkey  are  at  taia-  aatli  xiio  word  a  '"  a*  .  ;  ; 
and  (iireut  iiv:  i  „-  ai  liaa.  :  a—  'd.  O/a--,^ 
withtan:  m  wa  ;  .u.  ,.a>  a  ;  f  ^  '-  -  -a...  o  d.  '•"  \k>a 
5^a//  ao  to  lao-- award  en  d.^aja\"' "  ckjas  not.  ti\ieraadra. 
naaiti  i!a  ■  r  ,^.,.  ■  a  !'.  -fraa-^  Oj  1)0;  and  wheo,  we 
^'irnvx'  tdiore  and  go  sho|-ipina.  and.  a  shopkeeper, 
inlandina  to  be  pokta  aaa..  at  the  aame  tune,  to  a  a 
a  few  wtirds  tit  ^a  _  .  -^y  r  hfairtiia  an  i  .;"!: 
eni.piiaa.i>,  on   v^.  no"  a_    :    - 

aa:d!t-o  daa.       '■       ■:     .-  ,  ;  a  .      a-  aid  i 
naa    Oa*    '-^^a  \'»-"a    t  Jio    ,      ;  ^  >•-> '    ^     +1 
n«d  a«  -  a-'-d       n    ■■     ,       ,    , , 
Bat  ^i:.d  o  '  .o  way  n.  :  i   !    *   ' 

to     :ak\     til        ?,     ,.      ■■       •  w.-,      ,      •  .;n't'a.  t. .     So     tc 

-^ed  vmii    i-a  '"    , .  a     i      .a   ,  ^  a-'   ft.n-  khe  oarp^       -  f 

'1'--  ^'  ^  J^  •  -  ao-^a.^  .  ae,  the  home  of 
knn.ied  fanad>a^  'oi  ao  manv  aenturies,  is  the  last 
af  era  knai  ti  his  region.  The  other  old  families 
aiifaa:^  nTi^  oxtihrt,  01  landless  now  ;  or,  iia,ire  !atra\" 
yet,  the}'  a.t.^  ao  longer  content  to  reside,  as  oai 
!h.eir  .!<.,*n,aa^.at:o  .01  tfirao  extremely  quiet  atai  naaote 
surroiindntu  They  have,  at  any  rate,  disappeared, 
and  this  i<  tiia  .•iily  ''State"  left.  That  terni  is 
tlin  one  uso(.l  inr  ''estate,"  with  a  slight  diltarenre 
in  in,aaii..naa,  It  indicates  the  house  a-  tia.a,  a.  .,.s 
it  does  the  ,  d  that  goes  with  it.  Saa!U:an.nea  the 
word  ~'  si(.a.       -  -ayiloyed,  a  variety  ,-  the  awiii.ia.ii 


1  >  : 

!  '  -par  '  * 


214 


ON  THE  ROAD  IN  HOLLAND 


VI'  fi  If: 


Si  ie. 


r  M  1 


the     Wuld 

T  f  I 

If    Ui{-   rf'-p 


liititt^,}  i 


.ul    ca^sUe    ui    euuiitij 


?  =  (■■)■' 


Wiii 


!  ! 


r" 


i  M' 


Thf'iv    ;-    iin   society 

I  leer,"  rh^-  iiia,.ri,  i/f 
no    !i.;i-t    lit  ■I'd  ■-    ^' 


a: 


I  i  ■  <  ',.  f 


tiit/r    the    rinn>f^    hp 

iitly 
\il!a. 

f\     ]♦  nnd«]\-  like  a  castle,  it 
fi  :      >    ii      :,    in   the   Dutch 

t  he   ''  edelgeboren 

Such 
ithin  himself  or 


L     ■      '    i     i 


.''-'■ffi^    nrnj   rnitiift 


1  l*v,  Mi 


bf  extreiiii-h'  hnii'lv  :  iur  i.c  vVui  iiui  m.ix  with  the 
fariipT-.  p-f;Ofia!l\'  not  iinw.,  ]ir.rai|NP  t|M.  farmers, 
whis  nre  ali  \var-ti!n'\  .n-i  post  war-time,  p-nu^^ers, 


f!  T"! ' 


i  T 


I  '       I  !  i  »  V  '> 


inii]!-'    wojihliA'    train    llie    old    f;:adlis 


,  •  1 1  < 


onlv  ostentatious,  in  their    la     or 

tau   iiiu  ^,iiowv  but  not  tasteful  conditions  of 


Ti  t  i  '  T' 


t  J  ? 


If'}      ;       j-     ■    -V    •-> 


I  h^     !   ai-a   aid   l  ttt  a   iiave  not  changed  hands 

sinap  i4:al^     Alwnvs  the  place  h^-  pn-=;pd  "hv  morriac^e 

Uio   T?ai>  in  t?;<-   }.:■  an Tv^- gallery  tlit-re 


stid    laoia    a^a-^  ?  .o 


a-ceiitury   nw^-^or^   of 


^  \\- 


\  I  ••  1 1  fi 


t -*•  ^a  ^a^e  succatMiuia  a''i"'^a':'n<:*.-  =na:; 
nuw.  liiu  JJutaii  bcive  evui  iu\ua  Uxd  jjortraiis 
laiii^'l^ad.     S^<'aia'    nf    ^]iOse    li'a'^    are    b^'.ia^'nd    ;.n  =  ] 


•:  r  ^  » 


rnin-a.      i  taT* 

i      I  \  I    i  ?■  ^  r-  J  rt  ^  ta 


aa 


'  =aa.    ik      ;  a  a  Ma;^:  a    mJ    <i    iittle 

b^nia),  hanein^T  in  Mnnlipar'" 

although    !    a-^    a^'-t     i^a'^■.v    e.^r 


\  h 


i  1 


S[i»-'    lived    la    tbf 


lava-diaU   iaa,aai    'ajr'^ 


'.'a  M|.  iL  bciyrf, 

i'';    her    dla 


((      A 


?> 


U  t  i  '  i 


:;^  ,    IL     v\  a-:=    tlit;     >»  a.  > 


tfiOSt' 


dd     Jjatiai 


J 


li  1  :  r 


-,^. 


?^ha    wears   a   richly 


_^rf«.,tR^ 


V.-V* 


4'u«^. 


'a 


^7  .*S 


rf'^T 


ii*.,  i 


--<3r»- 


<:  -  g 


•'^I 


'■    ~  ■   -      i        '-'^ffi-Si      ■  wa' 

.  V  V  -£- 1    r   ^S^S\^ '  /-  >  /I-  '■   d. ,,  ^^ - 


iy^r';  .---^a   |:a%a«, 
;i;.«r:/:  ^     aai'raa^a'<.i 


u^ 


.-r^A 


f 

a 


.-awi..^>v^aa    '   , 
"e-- c^-'^-ai-'  'a. 


.  s*  ., 


-  -  s-  av  t ,  ^^^^  -  r^"-  -  ^i ''.  //'bHi\  t  'T-  'II  ^  / 1^ 


I  i 


H 

03 

'-4 


CO 

O 


OS 
H 

O 


H 


A  DUTCH  COUNTRY  HOUSE 


217 


br  .  .  :  costume,  with  skirt  down  to  her  feet, 
lihi    1  woman,  and  in  her  right  hand  she  holds 

a  tiol!  .lately  dressed  and  just  as  meticulously 

pamteci.  !  light  falls  ^-' derly  on  her,  for  this 
room  is  a  tvpical  Dutch  interior,  thc^  windows  tall 
aiii  iiai?o\\  ii  I  curiously  shuttercL  90  that  the 
li'Jix  t  rues  slanting  down  into  it,  as  you  see  in  the 
iiittTHji's  I'aiiited  by  such  liiiiTh  artists  as  Teniers, 
YvTiuA'vrr.,   t  )e  ii-=-;h,  and  others. 

Tiiere  i<  iTr ieii  uA  blue-and-^\.iiiir  vLia..  in  this 
}i  vu>r,  \u,ah  i>  itch  and  oriental,  and  there  are  manv 
I-  r  i  s.  In  the  attics,  which  u^  tin  Ives 
iTvai  n^oBia,  iigiii  alii!  d.rv'\  some  loiia-k>T,:(jUen 
!  always  rewards  a  search,  li  rt uj 
iho-:^i:  wiiu  love  the  mediaeval  and  inrer  - 
c^ii  two  occasions,  in  1700  and  I'^on^^  Miyi. 
aiM  t-t  iKS  conceived  the  notion  of  brr^n^  li  - 
hoiiie  iw  10  =i:ite.     At   ihose  times,  anr!  p^t^v 

J       :  was  held  in  c  ?     011 
.  •  *  '  uc  iiilciioi  is  remodeiaMi  in  "  ELnpiro 

^^    w  fioUy,  because   I   gather  that    it  was 
t  ii  a)    if!  enterprise. 

a  'he  fifteenth  and  sixteenth 
list  some  brickwork  at  the  back  and  some 


i'  (.1 II-. 

a  H  a 


i?i   l^t'« 


?<  I"  \ 


found  tc 


•  t,-"  J  \ 

er's 
old 

hus 


..aai 

I.MU 


aa   -lunes  in  the  eel!ai= 


W  : 


bacame  01 


V  >  1 1 V  J,  ' .  •      ••-  i ' 


from  the  older  house  ?     Buried  some- 

i  a  '  I  i  I J  b , 

And  thus  most  of  what  remains  of  those  ancient 
pt  ople    la   their  recorded  mode  of  life.    Rather  a 

tierce  and  arrogant  way  they  had.     I  have  a  notp 


2i8  ON  THE  ROAD  IN  HOLLAND 

of  hov,    one  luid  of  Jjckema,   one    It;-'. 


I  I  n 


m    1  I' 


I  *% 


i      V  Tjaerda, 

feeling   annoyed   with   the    townsfolk   of 


i) 


-T 


^  ' 


ji»^-.;::.^..-f*^*^^» 


1   I 


H  <V   :  ' 


■«»-iW*%tt^ 


WASHING   IN   THE    MOAT. 


.  went  out  one  morning,  casually  as  it 

■  i^ir.x  iji  his  retainers,  and  buriii  a  'i-^z-n 


I 


> 


THiE:  MO^r 


219 


01    so    cjj 


>i  the  houses  there,  and  killed  a  feu  of  the 
1  1  :  r  as  well.  Not,  it  seems,  an  exceptional 
incident.  Just,  no  doubt,  to  show  the  Lccuwarden 
I  n;  N  wlio  was  who  and  not  less  what  was  which  so 
to  Sci\  But  this  arrogant  raider  was  besieged  by  the 
angry  iviughers  in  return.  I  do  not  know  v  jiit  was 
the  upshot  of  it  all.     But  it  shows  how  ;    nay 

n»'rt's-.ir\",  ii  was  to  have  a  good  broad  aiiu  u'>''p 
m  ;t  round  the  house.  It  is  useful  yet,  lor,  nke 
iii}^::^  moats  in  Holland  and  the  canals,  however 
l'r^\  their  water,  washing  the  household  linen  is 
generally  done  in  it ;  and  it  is  surprising  with  what 
dazziiiiii  Avhiteness  it  emerges  from  that  dubious 
liquid. 

The  moat  is  there  yet,  happily  for  sake  of  ^he 
I  ir  t]  sque.  Fish  live  in  it,  and  water-liKes  flourish, 
and  wiii  ducks  skim  its  surface.  And  a  wooden 
liiiclire.  with  gateway  locked  at  night,  crn^^r^^.  \\^ 
Hi  a  spectacular  manner,  with  little  stone  lions 
^K  img  up  on  their  rumps  and  holding  shields  in  their 
iiiws,  with  the  familv  arms  on  them.  Over  the 
Uiiteway  }  uu  read  the  inscription,  "  Tankje  God 
yn  alies." 

1 1  is  an  L-shaped  house,  built,  as  are  most  build- 
ings in  Ii ulland,  of  brick,  with  the  usual  pantile 
roofing,  and  the  chimneys  with  muffles  over  them. 

irmounted  by  great  gilded  and  pierced 
•■•s. 
ately  for  the  English  visitor  who  does  not 
speak    tie    Dutch    language,    there    are    plenty  of 


I  -"  "^1  ■ 


1 


ON  THE  ROAD  IN  HOLLAND 


shouM, 


ij 


i  i    I  ■  i  i  M 


quaint 


<  !  1 ; 


K  m  the  house,  or  how,  on  rainy  days, 

o  pn-c;  ffio  time  ? 

cntbyt,"  is  generaH/     v  r    oon  after 

\\'«-  ihi'i  better  tlien,  <ji.ificmg  at  the 
ii        ck  ij    ]  rass,  with  its  pierced 

'f  lu-ii:i.i-;iiire  desigii,  which  is  the  conveiitiniiai 
liiUiii  v.-iU=  :^  -n;,en  scarf,  go  f^'^'  ;)  walk  tli-ough 


,)'[■ 


31     rou  to  her 


oL^"  \  s-lLiti    aliU. 


jtjl 


-  -i. 


DRONRIJP. 


1  I  •   -  '.  -i  O  I,  XV  t ',    j  . 

we   con  10   i(> 
memento  t)f 


Crooc^i::!:-  the  lTri<!c?e 

Uj;     ;lVf'!;Ue    of     •  .: 

lllf     Ureal      \\'  ::  ^*       .-,      1, 


A' 'i 


f    !' 


tr,u^vr.a  Git  riie  coast  near  H    ■'n  ,•  ..,  ., 
oo  iiri\'  ti;aii;i^'t'.     It  is  a  fori   ,o   '.  *   '  ., 

(4     f'lWT  -il'nli       \,:-  nrf  t>:\     -     Op  n     ' .  •      .     ,T 

three  tef-i  lnuiu 

The    villct-c    adioining    is    ^inali     arii 


the  moat, 
oast   a 


,  re- 


THE  TERPEN 


221 


Beside  its  brick-paved  roads  are  either  small  dykes 

;]  a  h  ivigable  canal,     iiie  church  of  dull  red  brick, 

with  tall  tower,  completed  with  a  saddle-back  roof, 

IS  aiK  ieiit  but  scarcely  interesting,  and  very  grim 

and  gaunt.     It  is  s^m.^-^  exactly  like  every  orUr 


ENTSAITCE  TO  THE  POPTA  SLOT. 

village  chnrch  in  these  parts,  and  it  is  built  on  a 

mound,  ever  so  little  r  '  rUi  nhove  the  geneiai  level ; 
one  (1   ti    se  '' terps  "  ere  formed  by  the 

i)Tt:iii>h}nc  folk  of  these  districts  as  5ite5  lur  their 
origuiai  settlements,  against  the  danger  ot  tjeiijg 
druwiiedo.a  :  ,  ■  ..  .  r  floods.     They  are  simply, 


222 


ON  THE  ROAD  IN  HOLLAND 


ill  tiien  origin,  Itphp^  of  clay,  diia  fmm  the  surround- 

\     i  these  Friesiai.  villages  lii\r  i  ames 


5  J 


l.K.'lL 


f,...    .  .,  - 


^//'       £-^un     iiiuiu    markpfl 

,  T  •  ■ 

-  i   .  .  <  '  .   i  ».  .  T  O ,  '     '■'•'■■  t  ^  ;   ^  :,    '■>    .  ,    i    ;  1  I 

l^=-n,:n!a,.     a.i:a     tjn;'ii^*^ds    of 
A:;:,  :    T  MJema,   that   aj;L!n''i>- 

artistic  success,  was  a  !       -  i 

folk     al     l^rulirijp,     bclWccii       i 

w  n.  rd  »^  f!  -     .:\  ^'  V  ^^  \"  5'-  ] 
1j\^   ."^  a.    *  "  *  a"a' '    l*'ra  a  _ . 
a*.aji'   a  I    \-i<   lai'tlaaai  t 


j\ 


ar**      If  a,; 


III 


I  a  ,1- 


11. 


1 1 .. 


aji 


.-:  T'i-,-i  Ti-  ,-■,• 


■,         i  i        Jul 


I  hers    nvf^    araazing. 

n  itch   J  and 

!<  ago  ;  a  bocia]  aiat 
•  ■' .  l"a  a  of  isLiii    I  ,: 

1  a;iaa'!i      aiiu     J^uuii- 


fie 


i')\/i 


a'  !a''ra 


I- 


L     '  ,      j,    •    V  i 


to-day  ? 


!'a" 


:ru  iL  \\ 


V^i 


a  >  ,    ill    i  ,  i '    : 


ijl 

■  *            »  .     ■    * 

pa  I 

I*  »:■■''-       ht 

tht 

■    i-?:jaa 

fair" 

^iful     ^^ia 

lli 


1^.' 


It  m 


\  as  a  painter, 
Uia   old   Dutch 

|a-\vnrV        \\  hpTa 

ih:-  I'losely.    aua 

I  a;  a  ••>  a  * "  4     a^H  >|  lal' 

he  apphed  ^  same  care  t  a:  a - 
i  subjects  he  chiefly  affected.  But 
V  a^  far  inferior  to  they,  as  an  artist, 
0  of  an  archaeologist  in  paint 


11a        iittLl        till 

iH.ts  and  ! 

a  oa  a  -.     .  .  f  ■ 


1    -i.    A    *-       'J      O 


a-  M- 


i ) 


.li.  i?_ 


n  the  Leeuwara  a  TT  i    a     ri  road, 

I  ^lunrijp,  is  iiiu  i  opia  ^lui,    the 
a    residence  of  tlie  T  pta  family. 


POPTA  SLOT 


223 


t'f 


J.  ill 


It  is  la  t  precisely  what  we  would  understand  by 
ail  a  a  fit  castle.  It  is  more.  The  term  carries 
Willi  a  an  implication  of  something  mouldy,  although 
n  t  u^ ;  an  archaeological  specimen  infinitely 
n^  but  not  desirable  as  a  residence.  But  the 
Pniaa  >\nt  is  very  much  more  than  that.  It  is  a 
[  a  iaae  of  antique  art,  fully  and  beautifulh  :  ashed 
With  !  i\  a! V  old  things.  The  Popta  family,  wit ij  those 
who  went  before  them  here,  is  extinct,  but  if  they 
r  nae  back,  they  would  find  their  old  home  just 
as  they  left  it,  in  every  particular  of  beauty  and 
comfort.  h)r.  Popta,  the  last  of  his  raeej  tawards 
tlip  f'ln^o  of  the  eighteenth  rontiiaT  jpft  hi==  i)r-perty 
a  f  i  all  1 1  widespreading  lands  as  a  aha  ■  i  r  v.  I 
{''ait'\a  If  T.'  he  the  richest  rhantx'  in  flah,aia,l„  The 
1  airiiincent  building  has  lain  conservatively  le- 
i^iuied,   aiid  1^   a  iuLugnised  show-place.     To  it    is 


+tar}iori 


'   Tl 


almshouse.     The 


are    kind   i  o 

'     OVVT    the 

udeiiiaijiien 


their  poor  old  people,  as  will  1 

vijiimiv.  in  their  ''  ga>tiiuisen  "  ;   * 

a  a  T  uwen.     You  enter  the  n    h        » 

iiaa  aa. adtertural  gateway  m  llie  baraH.^ue  a(jn, 
two  iigures  supporting  a  shield     f  air  -      ir- 

mounted  by  a  coronet.     It  is  a  char  a 


Ufa  I 


ft  a 


a  it  p 


h    composition,    and   among   the    best 


(J 


its 


Tt  is  a  pleasant  road  on  to  Harlingen,  through 
i  ia  i  ha  \  quiet,  clean  little  place  is  Franeker, 
Willi  a  police-office  next  the  StadLiiia  oearinsr  the 
word      Polizie  "  on  a  blind  in  a  kind  of  shop-wmdow, 


224 


A I 
Ir 


ON  THE  ROAD  IN  HOLLAND 

"!   i  lice  were  a  kind  of  delicacy  sold  within. 
''  Planetarium  "  which  vou  mci\  ^e^ . 

nodel  of  the  ccl«^stia:   hodie?.  con- 


ii 


pi    I.  iiVi ':    i  "■"    a 


a    WfjTlllli'J     I 


•I 


^  ^  H  V^  '^'  ? 


;    — rtji     In 


'*^**'"^^"-  - 


THE  ZAKKERDEAGERSPIEPKE,  FRAVprEP. 

striictt,^']  ]iv  one  Ei-t^  Eisinga,  17"! -SI. 

?,i,t   !.()  -pp  it. 


I — 


liaLci   r     There  are  the  usual  canals 


HarlINGEN 


225 


'r'i  ,•  -f      t 


r  i  j:i 


Clip  pec 


*•  T' 


ees 


if :; i.    till   tiie 

t      1  ? »      "i  '  \      ^'^  •■-,  w'j  »•> ".   ^     I  /■^ 

;• '!    .  .ii:   L-eliiuie 


ill    tile    -tret-'ts, 

beside  •  ^  f^       ^  .     (,;■.•     ,;_. 

Stadh:]L>,  «]  i'         ..    -  .    ■  ••■^       '- 

iiriiver>iitv.    .. :,. 

.XapuiiHjri  suppiesse-J  it.  Anri  ^ 
iui  little  red-brick  bjiidiii^,  •; 
"  ZakkerdFj.:»':  -i-  ■  .■   ■   "  f  T  .u;^- 

name:),  "1/    ""  L/       •::-  :,.    *■ 

pic  til  re  (i  here. 

HarliiigeiL  tiit  northern  and  not  greatly-known 
little   port,   trading  with  England  by  way  of  the 

Tliaiiie-i^  IS  a.  tjuiM^r,  '^\  -ly.  wmd-blovii  place,  full  of 
'ak.jur^     \'riav.\    ^::ir,a>,    grey   seas,    red    and    wlute 

'■  '  .     .'j^i  of  red  roofs.    There  is  iKit  ->> 

e  .■■  ■  as  there  would  taiv-  Vhs^-u  ha^i 

.  up  a  great  ; 


5i^.-!i 


Porters;' 


it*"»'IS'' 

^   '  •  t 

»  1 

mueii 

{ 1 

f  i    i 

not  t: 

i-'  '-4 

-  '  fe 

ago. 

Sio. 

■( 

not  ci 

jiue 

lii* 

<.  .  *C3 


opportunities  for  expansion  i.iave 
f  these  northern  ports. 


XXIII 


To    0'^'"'    O''    a     '•     • '        '    i 

coiiiitrv  0*'  ,  -t-     .     .  ■■ 
all  eiitertaifjio::    .  a  o     '■* 
these   pastor---      ..  ;    a     - 
and   iL^*  aroo"   ^^ '  :  -Oa  to 
into  the  to"»^a    .,  i.  !a^,'  ^/jdLj 


^  ^  *  ^  '  '         t    '^ 

':.:  [■'^"Lrafaiae. 


1        .    . ,1  i  J  i 


I  ■  - 


—  1-^^^  -4- 


1-       ^ 


i:  I  ijixix 


■^^ 


^^fS 


0^^  THE  ROAD  IN  HOLLAND 


coiiiplete  was  the  contra-t,  A  vri^.-  iittie  niftropolis, 
it  1-  true:  m  pi;puhi\i<>h  lU^-  :-l/j-  >'i  ^^ur  lii!;!irii(.^nd 
in  Surrey,  but  i'ivkinii  riiucLi  iin:dU'i\  in  tlieir  evrrv^ 
Cireuiii>tunee  tLeru  i^  rMie r,i;^.^  ;  t.,F\  ui  cuiir;-!'  Ue.;ii- 
liiurid  IS  a  Luii^ii'ii  ^ui'url.i  .  ciea  iLt/ir  ,-  iiulluiig 
fcuburban  abuut  LrTiiwrirdon,  Tt  i-  a  cnhiplete 
unit  ;   c4  liruvii.ricil   unse,  aii-i  \'*-t   with  a  soii.it 't In ug 

word  ■"  prnviiiriaJityb'  "Jh,!*  j>  ;tr;  rie-tt,  ruj  doubt, 
partlv  rd  1^;.  tine  cind  h.aria-uiij.t  u:a,  puhd^^  euii'iie^-, 
but  Jiiore  uf  it>  it  immunity,  whirri  b.  hr>ij}'  agricul- 
tural arai  rattle^rai>iria,  d  •:-  iniA'  :  Uu^^  watfi  a  aiKjil 
baakuai   uf   tiip    prufespinf,,ii    raa->^->.     'I  b^^    idt-    ajid 

tbe  shops  Ui  iajtaiuail'i.aa;  aoa  <»ia'  '*\"^,eod  -a''-a  laf 
llVtditr  aliii  ui  a  batdcl  ^t}*^.'  UkO.  O:  t  h-  a\a.U'a,ae 
Elii/iiSn    pruViUtaal    duva:    n'    t|j-    .-...afij-*    :■:/,>■.;,        1    WvMud 

like  tu  liiid  a  raaia'<a:-a.  i;!a,vn'«a.  ia;'-aa',iiaaai 
and   liei\d*u,ab   aiihuu^h    bv  pnpiilatiiai    iita*'fuii.i    is 

( Uie-diurd    -liuidta-  .     because    '.a     u.^-    •/cddda"-a.aa'kt't 

that  ineaL-  -^)  liiuiai  0=  d^U!:  :  [ad  tb'^  i  =aaJai{a^uIi, 
architecturan}a  i-  is  a-  easy,  L^a-  ir;d-iMi  ui  uiii-r 
niaLter.-.  Letaiwardta.  i-  a  luwu  vt  Uiaay  ruFads 
and  no  river  that  i-  recnrrni-abrr  a  rivar  :  Ht:a,af^,aal 
IS  a  (aithedral  tat\'  (jl  tr^r  n\^rr  W  \'t^  fad  udl:  !a^ 
canals.  But  borii  ,it^:  bu>duia  .ajj  a.\^»s\s.  auij  ia„ali 
have  that  profe->aaa,u  and.  rtdaia-d  eru<;dt-  vlvnjjiit 
which  jiiVf^  a  *,i.,ianiJ'a'a  a^pt■uL  Lu  Uiuae  tiiauata'S 
whore   it    1-   to    b':    aSaOd. 

iivii:   ViAi   v,ad  >oe   :-nra»a]ai  a   \''U\-   cacOarteristic. 
Nut    eXaia-iViav    eharso'na\:-.Of'    of    laaaavardiUi,    but 


LEEUWARDEN 


227 


typical  of  the  quiet  streets  of  many  another  place. 

Ala  nu  iho    la  I  ier  features  of  a  Dutch  town,  at 

loa>t   iTi   Its  quieter  re'-^idiurHal     -a-:^    the   spionen 


ar^;  piiuuintsad     I  do  not  snpf.^  •-■    . 
p!'i\aiio  or   {U-oiCbbionai  poopu'^   ro 
tbaa  tia     an  a  kind  of  people  m  Jb 

are   naue   :r\-;aaa;„atae   anri   nietb' 


...l  I,*  1 1,  o 


and 


^«  a  ; 


aujuiadive 
.  lad.  they 
U..aai    '''^"ay 


o.aa    iia_ 


..aa.,' 


of  uettUig  to  krajv\-  wd^a;t  i>  uiaua  on 
ill  itciaiaaid  ;  and  they  ar-  uu^:  so  *.dj\a^.,a,i-  as  ta*- 
inqui5dive  buigiibha'oioan.  ssho  pears  d'oiu,  bi'ijinii 
bbnd^  and,  curtains  uaion  vuhai  n,.aiv  in:  iiappoiiinc 
iii   tb<-  strata:  and    ji   »>    ..r!-*a    a,.,  ja*^*— .oy 

irnubbMn  doing  so.  'll^  A.  a  a--  1  -l..,'.-  oAu'-a 
the  knowang  oi  wUtit  i-  po.'aasaiiay  Ladoau;  liuar 
houses  to  a  fine  and  leisurcaJ  arts  b\-  Aie  aid  of  mirrors 
:^i:i  Laitsicb.*  their  windows,  at  'oaasirat:  anaaa  it  r 
fcaiifaaniiUiy  the  dooao:,,ya  ia)r  a  ^iynt  ■^-  ■  i...-  rn 
?jr  a,.a-  da-piavaic  a  \aew  ol  tia.;  -t!\.aa  ■  .-:  lA. 
\i  no:^e  are  tiio  -OHHa/a,.  lO;  -t-y'-dbi^-aS.  lot-',  .a  a 
b\-^  ]Nj  ineana  unbra..ova,  lu.  Aaabind..  bai  n;o'.  .o^-  -» 
amaauiutsn  a^  n^  t :-  .  ■  .  »  ■  .;  ;  -  d  ;  ~  *  a,  in 
lirabiijd  tho)-  ar*/  Aa/  (:astomarv  aceassory  to  a,,  pravate 
iisajse. 

[aajuasioieri   has  all  ito   da-jaa-5   rruportaiaa^   and 
its  di^no}      -  '  ■'    "  '  '..':■. 

Fnia>k,r  ■'       .  a'. .;..       '         ,  '    -  .  •   -    •  -' .,. 

WcO^  iro\  -: .  •  a  '  and  on  -a-    A-  •  Ay 

Aalaao  Stadtholders. 

buoaii    AoniUaissaiy    fir     I- "■•-'-a-        A 
than  ihib,  liowever,  is  the  \  ■■-%  • 


I       -'t. 


228 


ON  THE  ROAD  IN  HOLLAND 


come  m  frnm  the  TTarlinirr*T.  roncL  u{illi|)^illg  as  yuu 

d(*   S'j    ''tie    bold    \'i<.:vv   u!    ii\i'    t  Jiu^/hu\-n,    a    iiiassi'v 


r- 


chiirr'h-to'^ver  wiiH'h   set'in-   |.i  hau    betwerii   iji'iiig  m 
niilitar\'  and  an  tM:(;iH^la-tii'ai   W'jrk,  and,  leans,  very 

u   fh^^    I'n.ait,      tJid    fifsjses    at 


r>  1  »  '  I  '  r"i      J  »  n  t"      i  a      I  1 1  ■  i  f  *  a  t 
i  ..  i  i-i'.    1 1      5  7  tl  L       <  '  i        I  '  1  ■■■ «  i  i.  i  >-' 


the  iuiit  u'  its  iiur  [aiSifa'^ 


»     S   _.  i  l  ' 


;   t  !i^;lii-(s\s.':^,  iauk  inillia- 


till 


rj''^-i     h\ 


sa|)ari><,ai^    ..iii-j 


I  \  i ' 


ra'eiad    eanai    m    tbe 


fur^_'irruiusL  uiia,di  was  onr^*  th*,^  !ue»at  of  tiie  f-irtiiied 
town,,  an<„i  >ti,il.  irr^aiuaarK'  a-irirrim^  it,  eun,iplete> 
the  pietur^a  'I'here  i<  is^  'SiuriSi  re!naii.nj'a.(  of  tins 
3ixteeuth-«'Hnt urv  te)Wta\  'I  sa  niu-i  heaaitiiiii  seeular 
buisiinu  in  ':la'  Luvvn  i^)  Lii-'  i/!ni!,i,rtSlerie,  »)rs  ii  you 
like,  Tti^'  Kari-elsa'v  in  tL*>  Turf  Markt,  hiiilts  '-tran^' 


to  >a\a  it^  tne  era  nt 


Miani-li  Di 


ia(''S,ltlori,  111  1560-7,1 


It  wa<  ttie  Cuiirt-tn'd^.aa-  .a'  ^'na>land  m  t.hose  times  ; 
but-  imw  ,fi<ni-es  t,he  t'^rovancaal  Innraiaa      it  presents 


a 


iOi  i 


i  I ' )  1  i  I  a  a ' 


I !  i  •  r :  i  r  1  '  ■ 


i  i  I  I 


■uioiirt^d     reddjiae 


K- 


alterns.ti,na  witn  iKiial-  -s  >nei*a  a,!HJ  wit,h  one  lofty 

iiuil.     Air,'  .Jrrhna,o;t  Ifnni  ,laniiland. 


«  '      i  !  K  t 


irauit,'  01  rat 

Hazinir  at  it  ua,!!  pao,a,/i\'a  that  linen  this  e,levatioin 
na,jre  hiuin.  fmni  pe,rha|o  an\'  ntn^n'  in  ,Huliani,i  our 
own  ar(d.iitei:is  bnnsiWtel  llanr  eraz**  iji  sonio  forty- 
rive  \'ear-  a^-j  feir  wsiar  tia-^  br^'ii  irrt-'Sia'-rnU}"  nai,iao„i 
the"'  blood-anddaindan^,-  '  ov  "  heni-sandwi,e,lj  Vinaro 
ner  of  a,ittTnatina;  whit<-  -teae,^  an^i  o'd  brunt. 

In   its'"  Fr.ie-^ch  Mn-a,an'ii  "  f.eeuwarden  has  sLowii 


it>eii    np-toa:ialt>    iri    t,ii';    trrenna'    iieniern    spirit 


*NfH'inir}0'    t'->   i}rr*<fa"^e''    ra •!<■•<    ui 
customs.  In  tha  '"  Mi,!,ideU)pen  v^nnn^  " 


id    bri..oiaF,in    ine  ara 


t  i 


iiU'e.  >no^vina 


,.j 


Q 

< 


M 

» 
o 

03 

N 
Cm 


O 
O 

A4 


the    olden    bea-cupnoard-a    tiie    tncd    waii: 


v.i  li  •  I 


CUBIST  STAINED-GLASS 


231 


'  =  ia 


■tiv;  fV 


painted  furniture,  you  have  some  of  the  most  fasciiiat- 
insf  of  exhibits. 

Su   Hi  :id\-;inre,  in  fact,  is  T.np-Trnr^.^-'i  tiiat  ilif^ 
iijviiX    !ti    1  r      Roman    Catholic     e lurch    there    is 

fiirnislied  <ih!"v><t  completely  with  :^tu]iie(I-<ilci--  wn,- 
dnws  tir>nr  iti  (Jubist  art,  that  ''  last  '..v-pi.    '  m  ^  -;-.;;' 

u!id  di'>iLru.     Cubism  in  pa,iiitni^  i-  :=a-pua,  c-|MP.i;4^.g^ 
wild]  11  IS  practised  by  those  who  overstep  th<'  nia-k 

a.iiii  descend  oito  vorticism  and  ao  o-  wnr^t  ^.-■•: 

cities.  Buth  ^ho  duller  who  wtdeuiiic-  tiicbt. 
aospels  because  they  sec-iii  i.ij  liivi-  an  I'ppuriiniiiy 
Ijj  iiicnpat'itv.  and  1  he  facii'-ao/wvri  i-^^i'  v\'iiM  -et;S  a. 
ihiaripe  n[  iiecommg  profihJ,M\    i.^u'^ru.u-,   ha^i  ihelv 

account    in   them.     Bui,   iH-UMiai.  ^d'   Ui^.:-^   windows, 
I    Wf/fU    !u   -ci^   thefii,    ^wiH^nirp;   rnc   wnr-r -arin    re- 

!nain,cil    to    .uiicu-,       \ 

of  th''  '■hyiTi'\\  aTc  in 

in  I  he  eh  !»■  -  •    w.      •■.■•■ 

ventaoiia!    =  vi".,    v.  a  >■.  .: 

saints,    picrur^  h    m     1.. 

that  sickl\    !  i:>hiuii  ^u    a 

regard    san  >    d>      n.afaa^     iii-o: 

mon-lv  a-   n-  r     a-     a    a-  wt    a;  * 

niunt  ha\  ■'■  da. a:  '"a  d  a  a 


a  .'^  i 


Hi   ^j;     body 
'.  ^   <•    those 

a  f     ■  i ,  a    COn- 

enaa^  aiated 
'.    ^ on  per-    111 
u  a-lljcr  nou 
■:-^(  a iC a'a>    OT 
a:'-d-.   thev 


o 


hara' 


J  ,;,i,'  ■■    '. 


aaaven- 


tionai    ra^'O-ia 
n,iu.ch.,      H\i'    ihj 


■  a.  a  JiJ^:-    d-  5  10-    o^a  -  -    d-'  !a    ^--^ 
-■to  ^  !v   and   da.  a  *      •■'     ^^     -'     ^^  1 

in  thcar  T(^ri-ia   t'nriwt   window^  ai    fa^-nwarfifai  are 
rouiihdiown  and  laraJ^^  and  aha  Liavarn-  is  atojaig. 


232 


ON  THE  ROAD  IN  HOLLAND 


XXIX 


TfflB  name  "  Frie^l.trid   '  wcuid  -ei^rn  to  iiio-t  l.:,^,.>'  • 
nien  w  indicate  tLat  tlii-  \v.i>  an  t/XA"t-|jti'-,na,llv  cui^! 
country,  especially  a*  it   i>  m  the  uav'i-.     But.  it  i^. 
the  land  of    the    Friesiafis,    tia:    ''  idjv    |Ha.>pled'    who 
inhabited  all  these  northtaai  shure-^,  vxichihiin  over 
what    is  now  the   pr^nanee   of    (rr^jninaerK   aial   into 
Gerniaijv.     Thev   were   a   t  rtToainic   nahe  :   and  tix^t 
iind  niention  m  tiae  page:-  ui  Tacitu-.     I'hi:  aturth" 
independence  of  tiie  I'diesian^  wa>  a  leatiire  of  tfa/ir 
character  even   m   tho   ruiao   of  th*-   Huroan,^.    va^n 
never  fainquere^'i  tliefn.  :  and  it  ^li^v^v»;8  tn  tfjis  dav 
in   tiie   manneth   iji   the   people,    kn-iiiha    i-oa,iteoa;^,^ 
but    self-reliunt    to    an    unusual    dearee.     It    i^    un 
agreeable  mmuiuui  of  eharactenstice  to  an\"  ^t^an'^^er 
who  IS  perhaps  more  u^ed  to  the  blunt  lUid  -onietirneo 
unideasmg   independence   of    Yf)rk>iurc    .nai    [.aijca- 
shire,  not  often  easily  to  be  distinguir^hed  from  -hecr 
rudeness. 

The  Friesian  language,  '' Fricscii,"  or  '' Fnese," 
survives,  and  16  still  spoktui.  It  i-  not  nierefv  a 
dialect,  and  a  Hollander  na"-i^t  ofteii  d'H'':>  lioi  uiailer- 
stanri  it.  There  i^?  somelhirig  of  e  leooiie!  i'^-'weeci 
England  an.d  Waao,  for  Ffae^huid  r-  im  umrr  Ifollaral 
than  Wales  is  Englarith  Tlitco  i,^  nni-ei  Xor>e  ui 
Fne^cli  :  and  niuclo  ton,  nf  wh.a  >uuiid-  I'uijh-li. 
In  tact,  there  is  a  current  rh\uiie  ; 


THE  FRIESLANDERS 


233 


"  Good  butter  and  ^ood  cheese 
Is  good  English  and   0 


*  !■ 


c-C. 


JS 


mg  knig!o.  became  reluctant h-  convfuaaai  fri.an  ree/ir 
grev  ,N<uir;*cii  sjods  to  rlo  -  .0  •  0  "  .,  ..■"''  ■. 
ill  tfie  seV'Uitii  and  cigiilii  ?  roi  oe  ;  a  >u-  :.  ;  ■•  ...■> 
( xternal  schemes  of  overlordship     j 

fi'Und  .1   \^.i\    :     :  ^  e«  "    .ah  then,   a.  'h^    oen.-  '-^'    . 


I  ..    •-  -^a\  '  d   In"-  1)1  S 


a-,  an-'  tOt   v 


oe      r.  ,    .  ,  M, 


•e 


Th  it  U'^l  :  ^  ii  .    .  ' 
ibaa-iit-     '  •  a    .    *  •'• 
pt'?:pie        l! 

ami   fjeeind   merto\"'   oi.  rrnuri'   naue'^  ti>  tfa;  (..lamm. 
ll   tlie    Frie>iaa.>.    fei\/e\"ta.    tiaO    rr:^ 


T,  . 


'^■»  i 


t     t!,.. 


i.l  it. 


O  I :  ;  e 


li     aiiO 


a   ] 


i'jutKejl  :-aoe, 


that  the  (dmicii  i:ao  m-  o/aae.^fi 

they  |)erhaps  would  have  been  more  suspicious  tliao 

thev  vvere, 

At  iOi\'  rate,  ill  course  oi  time  they  found  •':.-:   - 
selves    insidiously   being    *ontraOt  1    b;      : 
^tam--^'Vt  ]'  ■  :i  >  under  Uj^  ;.••■( a    :,    .  ■  f'U-  -  .  ^  =.   ■• 


naifiV.  :0  a  '*•  -J'    ■   |    .'    ^  a  •  •  -m^  a      ^  ■'■'.-,..  ^. 
"  Seii"E«ad        t      '■•        '•:':.       la   1200  t]  .-   fu'-\i,.-, 
re^'uama  ■:  ^'^icumartat  asain>t  nitm  ma<  oe^dence 
in  i||,.  tH  :-Me     •  ^  -   .-a    \^  .  _  .a    '  '  : 0      .     t 
been  eiected  tTermaai   f\Hm'=    eOe-o*'.    o 
an,d    rJiereafter  earra^i   «.ai    t    -":'_.>     •• 
hundred     ana,    ufn'    vioers    .'.a-r-     '  a^  . 
l''rieshaaF     lliov,.  uii  terms,  rh*--  o^..^    • 


-;*o.   lam  ; 
;  o'i\"   a 

f  the 


<  !i 


States-Ueneiai   oi   cite   iJutch    iiej_aLone    .m-i   anaily 


MiaEiiifc^i«Wr^.tWi 


ON  THE  ROAD  IN  HOLLAND 


a  priff  n 


f    f  h»'~»    nrp^on  f      |\  : 


f      J  1  -kT      1  1  1  1 


/  i  '^  1  )■■■■ 


belief    *hat 


h  r: 


a  inau- 


r    t  fi    -- » '  t' 


;  I,  ?  i  ''< ' 


1 1 


cQiimt'iu.'" 

t  t'l  p     I'  r-  i  f .  V, ' . ,  n .  t  f '  " 


a: 


t  • 


n-J    auaiiccii   history.     ,Ai    ,: 

n  considers  himself  "a 
^vxiiis  blow  in  the  heavem^ 


A   DUTCH   CLOTHES   HORSE. 


W" 


;  i 


ar 


ci  I 


f< 


all  continue  to  exist."     I  do  not  know  what 

1  f  i;  pen  if  it  shuuid  occur  to  the  Frieslanders 
-^!'■iish  theiii-f^'ves  as  a  separate  i^uvermnent 

i>..a'ad:  ^U'  tiie  a.tU.ority  of  the  i-^t  -i  i:.e  Kins:- 
«d    fl'^arja-id  :   wIi^-^'^It't  this  fr--dom  w^-aa    r<p 
o\\>MiuM.i  a!ai  rr-nected. 
Xurth    a)f    i.^'-uwaa^d^ai    vou   comr*    in    a    few    aa!*- 


■  .1  a.    V  .  A-  i  i  i.  /  '.. 


the 


A' 


N4 


a  f  H  I 


^i 


i        tH^:. 


PLACE-NAMES 


235 


equally  empty  yellowness  of  the  sandy  shore,  wheie 

the  ;:rai~ae-  Tn>\b.'  and  shiver  in  the  strong  breezes 
ai  ai  set  111  '  via  a  tales  of  eld.  So  shall  you  come 
arv  K-nijaa;  air!  i.'-iikum,  Hijum,  Marrum  and 
!  I  lu  a  i  r  )  lloiwerd,  where  is  the  ferry  across  to 
AiiieLaii  Island.  Or  you  may  go  by  Stiens,  whose 
name  indicates  t^^^  n  "RniTinn  mad  came  this  wav. 
Stiai  s  church,  xception  i  irge,  but  for  the  i, 
hruther  11.1  ..i-  «  '  l  iu.;iia>^  In  i,a<=-i  other  churches 
III  iha     j.  1  a-,  stands  on  one  oi  tho  e 

th*-  uauai  feature  of  these  villages,  la  ctij),  or 
ia  a  i  i^-  fieaped  up  by  those  remote  settlers 
ill  iiii>t  aaj_  a  LIS  and  inhospitable  wastes,  in 
riaips  when  civilisation  was  young,  was  the  only 
ufv  a?  oanil— and  that  perhaps  not  always  certain. 
the  original  "  home,"  whose  name  is 
iJ  1  in  the  usual  termination,  '' um," 
i  i  I  lace-names.  On  those  clay-heaps 
^  liad    their   primitive    ih    :   aa- 

lages  stretched  away  as  tune 
i.H.ii'rv  terpen,  now  iiiin(a:i.u.)ied  either  by 
a  i!  11  or  via  a  e  eagerly  dug  away  and  their 
H  aa  >oid  i^  lie  ton,  and  at  his^h  prices,  to  mix  with 
the  hu!ii:.r\'  -a-ls  of  less  fer^:^.-  regions.  Almost 
aiiv  dav  yva  maV  see  this  w.v:..  .a;  progre-- :  uith 
perhaps  some  antiquary  or  scientiiie  laaii.  i  an 
by  archaeological  or  other  societies,  wat  a  „ 
dia'aers.   .le-t.  -^-a.frhing  of  antiquarian  uv  -a.iiavu.iiC 

!  thed,  as  very  often  is  the  case. 
^    f  prehistoric  man,  the  refuse 


sX. 


.   1. .;.  \    i.  ' . 

found  aii 


i     Li*  .1  L  i.  >.  '-  L 

tt  i  lU      }  I  ■'  '  I- 1 

xvnfp    on. 


i  :  i  i  t. .  I.  '....  ...    t 


na 


\  bp    H 1  ^  t '  a f ' ' . « !  •    . 


2"^') 


ON  THE  ROAD  IN  HOLLAND 


of  his  poor  little  water-logged  life,  aie  dog  up  and 

sorted   f.iVer.      f'^ur   \\Lu.i    ultimate   end   'lid   lie    live, 
'wu.i>  laiow-  how   maiiv  CTf'n.fiotiMfi^  ot   inin  :'     Wdiv, 

it  W'jUid  >fM>?ii,  tor  li-Mdohii  innr.-  th.Hi   ill.tr  hi-  MOV.ii/e, 

becijiiit;  a  (.ie-iraiii' 


•-i 


A  XV 


Ani)  :^(,i  ''!i  i'«>ut*"  Ujv  '  o - 'fiingen,  .u=;r;^  ; 


brick 


l)<iVi:il 


rcKtO    Will 


'.  •» 


-t.1 


^oo-n.u    Oj-fiiun    hU' 


A I 


c , 


0 


D:-v-- 


-w' 


1 

I 

H 


b  tj  c  u  iii  tj  -     I!i1  J'iioied 

amid     sands  :     i   rtu 

riatelv    not    for    h.'U^, 

V^ ''  V' )ine    i)\'   •  ''^nrco'- 

^iinn'zii  tiiji  iiiui  iiirv- 
i  :.iii,:i  ^iUt  a  iJat  rauaviii. 
1  ;.<■     phire-!irOi]i'>     on 

n.aj)  a  lid  ^iL:ll-|'H,''^t-^  H.r(' 

like  the  vain  nfidiinnn^-  i,i  nnd.nn^o^t;.  and,  a-  luiia  as  a 
aood^nralln  and  ^-n  ira-  a:an  = -.^oMifta/n  laiji,  ^lunkiiiii, 
sqiieakinn  ea.d  Tinindia-ihir.  ihu.j  tik'  n^a\i  iia,ia,>h  : 
Swaa^we^':eiin,iia.,  idn-a,!aa^-'/^' ,  <  iaa!"ina.ik<nn  i\*^-- 
himerswaa^,  Buit*'a;rs(i.^t ,  <trr  ^on.a'  <)[  lin'  innra 
modest  amoiiii  thetn.  l!<a,,ir\-  i>!d  >iii:n -posts  I  saw, 
directmg  to  those  plaee^  in  me  patricirehai  mea^sure 


AN    OLD-FASHIUNt^i    SIGNPOST. 


THE  GRIM  CHURCHES 


237 


of  lirnca  bv  nnr^^ 


ta     aa-  : 


i'-L--  a f  V   J .! 


TTid  minutes,  rather  than  b\  miles 
is  calculated  ai  ry 

'  1  three  mi.i.a>.  ta  .  =    ...     a... . 


« -i 


I  fi 


To  the  hour  a-h^-fiMn's  pace  and  a  httie  bit  over. 

Ira  eounti  b  oauan  Groningen  and  Leeuwarden 
is  the  very  rienaxifm  of  the  picturesque,  and  iiil  the 
vidaear  -and  one  is  also  disposed  to  say  iiU   the 

cdiureiies a,rf^  alike.     Very  grim  dark  ure\"-raMi  brick- 

biiilt  diurches,  mostly  with  to  th 

>.aa(dad:.aak  luuib,  and  all  with  ;.  a    -.-...  ^  litive 

iih  a>  uf  architectural  adornment;  sin  .  ..  -v, 
ainu- 1  fortress-like,  they  seem  more  suited  a  :   o 

of  tJie  ghionne  Ljad^-  of  the  Norse  mythology  tiatn  luv 
that  aif  ih  ran<tian  religion.  Most  of  them  uare 
baaiv  'Uj  tia,'  ino'tcenth  and  fourteenth  cenu.u:ies. 
Ruah  are  tie:  '  a  hes  ^  dldwoulde  and  Stedum, 
reapetaa vtd  v  s^tn,  h-  aa.^1  aud  north-east  of  Groningen. 
But  Stednin,  ehureli  is  worth  seeing,  if  onlv  fur  the 
beautifnl    a  recumbent  effigy  o      -  , 

IfiTib    hv    W^vU  i'::^i  of  Malinos  •   a         ■  -•  a     a 

of   d.^    -    a.  'or's  art, 

:h''  •  an<o  .  nno  uronp  •-.  a-;  .  ..  .  ■  .  n  — 
:•'    fna  I  ,-  ■        fh    di  -d   in    I  '■-  -       ■   i    i-     ■—-''' 


;  I       1%  i  s 


n-.-!>^-i    I -a-,  ;..    'Vn  J  ^ 
a  a-'aj  ,,t   nnn. 

I    .  — n    '      ^  e-                         '    -  ^  ■  a  a.   ;  ■    .  -•-, 

Tan.  aannot  iaii  tr»  !a)ta/t*       '  iiiOiaa.-.  "' Wacht 

11  viior  dan  hluinh"'  aaa  very  practical  knjd  ^d 

WMuden   eitiiiiuodxurai    UMjd  in   Holland   for    arynig 
linen— a  contrivance  which  gives  more  surlace  to 


238 


ON  THE  ROAD  IN  HOLLAND 


th 


t-        ii'ii.         <i  I  I  '.  i 


u 


bvionsly  be  in  ns- 


Bu^ 

\Vt- 

^  ^  ■'  t 

?'  i 

i  .: 

* '  i   )  ■      i 

tu    I. 

f  P         '^ 

"i      '"  f 

-■r\ 

t!:a^ 

I   ■-,. 

'    -.  T 

,  t , . 

It   1 1, 

vVll 

of 

!  J  \ " 

- 

■      ;                 T^    '. 

1 

4-     .    . 

*  •"    •  ' 

'     \       '        *■    ' 

1        • 

ai;'i 

^ca 

t       .■ 

1  ' 


*  '  i 


.Ul..j_^^ 


<^t  tue-wav  a  place 


1    I  ( 


Chit*'   -!:'"»; 


•"i  ,  I  I  f  i  •'"!  C; 


i    ^ 

I        I   KOLLUMERSVV 


i ^ 


A  A 


1C  ?^;NU'-f  M 


ANOTHER   OLD-FASHIONED 
SIGNPOST. 


:i!iK!.ti'   and   ^<u 

suuu  mhabitaiitb,  Jhu    f)v  way  ui 

LiiiXciiily.      it  1:5  a  |jkiLu  uf  up-to- 

is  a  ^'.auTcU  air  u:  <  -  .aJi- 
-^  -)  ness  and  at>{niaaiil  hr--- 
^^     perity.      As    you    comi     up 

along  the    lia^ 

notice    tla 

with     1  ciii 

windows,  it  V*" 

that  Gronii. 

the  world  to-dnv. 


tna 


1    a- 


ii^* 


>fTsr< 


',!"'""';      •    J    i    f    ;     f 


» I     i, 


^  11  '..^   C         V>   ;„4   C 


*Ji 


But   1  i  r    ^  T'  rmit  these  remarks 


t . .  .  f 


t.      i    *     i,    --,      ■  ■        i.     i     "  i      V^ 


a«i    f'a.  t  !4l.uoL<  auliuSS  in  tLc    LuV\ll. 


c 


»  \  « 


i>   ta-   ,^!>-.i^    iniiipiMi,  brick-]' -n*    :M.-a'?a    A;i 
^^-a^i:  'i-H-~  !:.m:  greatly  attract  me  ;  aa,d  a.  la-  La-'^ic 

Mark  I.   -ar^^'lv  one   of  the    w'rlo-t  and   rnonnio^'^   nf 


laafj-aa  ■-[•iai  -^   Hi    I 

a  I  >'  .  Ma!'t  ia'>  rij:: 

to   ii-iaian'^ar.  -    >  \  •  :  -v^ ' 

tM,:iir\"  j-a.^  ■  !iu  Lai-t<aaar\ 


'/  .  >. 


t  f 


t   • 


I :  I  >  * '  i  ■*  * '  > 


aa!-a<a 


utaa/'ai  u 


I  *  ■'  »'=   -  '  i 


r  r<  aa,    Hi. a    a  •' "  \' 
Ihaafay 

I'j     atan- 

<  sta«it.>. 


a\,:p  ai-. 


!  ,a 


'o 


Uaa-  «a  tho^o  hmiaps  v<.  hownvrr,  T^Mlia  -nial!  ni  scale 


#' 


t^W&'' ■-■■■'■  ■■'^^-"'- 

-''^^  "3  a 


k^'' 


\:^;\ 


ITi 


ai'Wr^- 


av- —  „^  ^    ■       •  .--,'7"/-      .    «:  .       *>    .   (Wv*        '  ■  *" 

-^_     -T---— :«-:--„--  -^J^,  ^    -,       -a  yi?:'^  )  I  it  L  I T^  fe  '•  /  >  a-"    .a  ij  i 


rt=^ 


» — f 


^4. 

--  #aa 


.•-Vi- 


r^ 


^^«fd*v> 


til 


'•1 


SH^-^  *.;2* 


V^^- 


4 


/r{ 


'l-^      ROOTl   MARKT   AND   ST.    MABTIN's   TOWEE,   GEONINGBN. 


GRONINGEN 


241 


ih.l: 


the  little  Guard  house  of  1509.  Its  window-shutters, 
painted  in   :  w  ^   colours,   as  customary  throughout 

tlir  rnimfrj,  disclose  more  vividly  than  elsewhere 
tho  <  i  :i  of  that  fashion  of  painting;  to  resemble 
t ir  I  bf.  k  window-curtains. 

\  t  !\    noticeably  is  Groningen    a  Roman  Catholic 
licigiibuuriiuud.     Priests  are  common  objects  in  the 
fr«  t'f-  ;  and  so  are  farmers,  for  this  is  a  great  grain- 
a    vii     region.     For  the  rest,  it  is     i  hriving,  peace- 
piare  an^  has  not  known  war  smce  the    siege 
Tiiere  is  an  old  house  in  the  Ossen-Markt 
1       ;      m  cl  I  i?  ^  hark  to     disturbed    old 
tinii-.  vvhirii  Hidicairr:  h--v  wcary  th^^v  ai!  \\vTe  for 
pi  :t(      tiid  i*  I       to  go  about  their  la  casions. 

^"  (Unit  :inve  (id\  hk'T  in  Vrede  schmkn  mach,  en 
ail  maen  des  werelts  donder  slach,"     That  is  — 

''  irinj    ■jiVi'    thai    Uk'Tv    as    ivaiV    we  maj  Sh'4lvr    i'lum 

the  thaiai   '-:'  rms  ot"  !!a>  uw-'b/' 

W-ib  :ir  '  liava^  fi=,ui  iiu.;  yt..^cK..  Ii.l  •._Lomestic 
arcliitcetuf'  <  -■  m  ^fHi.L'en  sikjws  it,  in  the  many 
BdViuiiij^  r'  -a-  •'  •  ^  ■  .  ^r  •-•  ,tii  century  build- 
ings,   <^hih(i!,,b  '  ^     i -^a,  ia:i';,!M!     -a    w^icfi    rJj-ia.  ! 

the     Uuci  oor,'      .  »^  ^         ^     neexample. 


>  «■  \  1 ; 


i  ia « 


\\    .:.■' 


'»      :  ;  , 


of 

0 


242 


ON  THE  ROAD  IN  HOLLAND 


■1. 


ns,  but  wo  will  turn  south, 


t'liti'i'i 


^^    f      I-  "^ 


is  th 


P       ft' 


>  r  i     ( 


Di 


I  ■■  r 


•  I  »  M  i 


bracken  ;  and 
those   gr    I 


^     U  enthe  at  \f'<^s.     DreL 
h    iths.     Whcii  li.t  province  ui 
a:=h'MJ  veai's  ago,  n::^!,  fo  a  grr^at 
?.^.-^,aj.     N'jt   }''i-   ii<*.-    the   Wild, 
'    ight    under    tho    pi       li.     it 
liaggy,  tussock\  i 

.•  f'cgion  of  the ''  1  innucUcauuii, 
t      tones  which,    a     ording  to 
M  rn      arc      graves  ol  ii.L  lians  "  ;  or,  according  to 
the  less  imaginative,  are  merely  the  ''  ^^^nvps  of  the 

dead." 

W^  ^^  vr  may  be  the  real  significance  of  the 
name,  theiv  s  but  .?  t  explanation  of  the  many 
scatter*  J  ef  uj-,  ui  these  stones  here,  m  a  land 
that    hi        a    lajMv      >h>ne.     Tli'v     ire    ice-borne 

granite  buiiri'-r-,  Liui.^ia  here  iii  ::..•  youth  of  tin- 
worl'h  l'\'  a^-  ^a-  a--^a-,?^  ffoni  Rcan^inavia.  T]a_*ra 
are  laore  than  iiitv  a  :  of  these  alien  st  k  r 
"nrpnfTio  :  the  most  famous,  yet  not  quite  the  most 
spectacular,  at  T  larloo.  Ma!  y  of  these  collections 
by   the   long-exliUa  icd    iuicu^    uf   nature    are   now 

protected;     il     (air-     rf:,:.i,     wvn'v     a     iJPTinrat^-r     -.-Tn, 

would  have  ar- u,  i  .dr^af  i  b  ..use  not  then  had 
travel  and  c^ood  rnad-  ra;iH'^  ^h^an  so  roadilv  accessible 

astheya^^  a^aa,  fba-  to-dav  a,!.y  ?ia 'ha'ist  can  a^aa-- 
to  them.  N^n  i:<rv.  v,uau.  u  du  pu^:^.uic  tu  v, ixi<_, 
(a  ^cientiously,  af  w-:- J  .  r,]  i-;  -tain,  perhaps 
e\'uii  hazarduu^r,  c.ppiuuiaH'S  av*a  t  a*.-  heaths,  to 
find   eva^iiillv     aft-r   diffiniltin^   and   exhaustions, 


THE  HUNNEBEDDEN 


a43 


those  lone  stones,  brooding  enigmatically  upon  the 

laniisaain  and  thrilling  you  with  a  sense  ut  Ut  r 
nra  ^  n lu^  'ike  in  time  and  geographical  distance. 
X  a  a  They  thrill  me,  it  is  true,  but  in  a 
tiiiiar  ti  I  a  nsory  chord.  There  is  something  just  as 
I aaui!  r  -although  of  a  different  piquancy — in  ob- 
strvHu  ;  [)artv  of  motorists  patronisin<7  the  imme- 
iicient  as  there  is  in  r'  .  le's  self 
to  the  iiiiiiiite  by  coming  to  it  in  ^_— wu_  i  i  by  way 
rfn'rfips  and  hazards. 

ected,'*'  yes.  The  "  Hunnebedden,"  or 
'  tiraves,"  as  sometimes  they  ar-  named 
b  iht  pea  antry,  are  scheduled  by  the  (•  a  nt 
aiid  iiaiv  labuhed  ^'  Rijks  Eigendom  "  :  thaa.  a.  Uj  ^^y, 

Property."  Those  notices  rather  take  them 
category  of  the  wild,  the  mysterious  and 
tht'  uijPX|iaaT,.<j  and  place  them  m  that  uf  specimens 
H  i  !  a  a  a  a  By  SO  much  they  have  lost  something, 
it  i>  tiiKa  1  r  :  a  oHen  lure.  So  did  I  turn  aside 
at  ^.'ria^i  !a  tiiai  tla:^  atones  of  Tijnarloo,  and  come, 
iat  I  .  J  Assen,  a  little  town  amid  the  woods, 
and  eainXai  -^  Drenthe,  -  ;  .'  ■  b"?  ^^twards 
to  Rolde,  where  there  i-  :i    "  a    .  -  ■  -  ■ 


n  f    11  p  'a 


^i  f,  t 


'  Q' 


twri 


""  M   M  ^  f  "^  S          f  I  I  H-  H  I       I         I          if        >  r-  '         ^    .                   ,                 ,                      -  • .  ■    *  1 

taa;    hagfiurd    amnled    oaks.     The   mossy    b  i   ^ 

ache-i    balifnad    trar.ks    oi    thoS'  -_■_- 

in  keepnia  with  wdiat  we  like  to  tliink 

of  thrsi'  survivals  from  a  time  when 


ciTlf'l      tna      b 


were  entireiv  m  Keeonia 


th< 
hit 


V    !      f- 


an:    nail 


n  - 


Nature   has   well   stage- 


ma  lai  neb. 


on       *  ■ 


244 


if'-^t'     >t*lfU' 


Vn:i    ptil 


riv>jj ,  : 


ON  THE  ROAD  IN  HOLLAND 

•      vhUe  those  primeval  forces  bronglit 
n  u  vind  collected  the  far^^rown 

i  }  r    liht  them  into  these  :  uiips. 

ruauin  uiiough  in  the  dispubiUun 
Up"'    r^   ngement  by  whi'^s  ^^^^•i'   f    ? 
r.ip-t,  ?  e,  constituting  wlai   v  e  call 
Thp  atones  of  Tijnarloo  are  more  in 


1,4  I  ;  ■  t      i  1  ! 

.   1.  -.   ?» 


1 ;  (S 


ONE   OF   THE   HUNNEBEDDEN,    ROLDE. 

Ui(j  ntniiv  .,  r  nilechs  than  are  tho-^  of  il>^^e. 
Kvuhnrr  f.H  M  '  X -tence  of  the  ''Huns/'  whose 
irra  vtr>  t  lie^e  ^lonu^  may  cover,  is  not  lacking-  -i ! t  }■*  Mi^h 
n:  Ih'  tiiP  v;iu'i^^'  ^nr^-  ^  =:;*_.]  in  ancient  sagas.  Ancir^* 
per>ori;i!  uruuii:-!.T>  LuXl  been  founa  i^ere  by  diligent 

hui.    as    the    vikings,    the   ta    's 
"Huns"   burnt   the  bodies   oi 


r)  f-  ] 


i  f    i     ' 


n^ 


CD 


K 


l\ 


I 


DRENTHE 


M7 


dead,    nothing    more    has   come    to    light.     But 

iJTcufAH',   i!:'->    '    -ithland    ir^eeiice,    was,  it    ^eems, 
a   i  iri   if  eb        regions  that  anciently  were  styled 
fhir  ihn  I,"    and   peopled   by   folk   of    Germanic 
and  S  undii  eve  Indeed,  if  we  may  accept 

the    ei  Vttti  ]  ee  name  of  "  Drenthe  "   from 

Ihentfjf^n  i^  K  vay,  it  would  seem  that  they 
e    r      i ;      ;  .  avians,    who    * '  wanted    their 

pie  t  e  Hi*^  sun,"  "^^^  very  rea^uiiablv  came  south 
in  ill  Mt.     U  V  or  all  concerned,  there  were 

a  In  id  V  ill  :  1-  ..,  sunning  themselves  m  this 
perhaps  i  ;  '  r-'  i  .  'y  warm  climate,  people  who 
i;r:^erite(i  the)  .eivsjrehvr,.  ld-,'n,  as  we  ha\e:'  Ih  recent 
y^ar-  obher\^ei.i,  rathee  acutely,  there  was  trouble. 
B}"    thr    evidej:ia-^    ..f     ;i--^e   "  Hunnebedden "   v-iy 

ihv:^o  relics  seem  to  indieeti  that 

battle-ground.     The  presumption 

liie  Hun  chieftains  losing 

-r  +hese  strangrrs  nut  from 

m    establishing    1 1 1  emselves . 

themselves  would  seem    to 


miieti  troiibit:.  lu- 
tfais    v\  ciS   a    vast 


rc  in  li ',  J  J 


'_-■!. 


so    lIllilA 
+  e,  i ,        r   ,  .t-t  f-- 
t  i 


■T  T 1 


it,  f^.  ■'  e'  ^e..-   ^:i'n..^Qd  peoples  hrid  pmved 
xerionous.    thev    \v.n.e,e    -ruee:uiy    iiave   tiu.i^:u'...'i   to 
ilte  t  tlie-t     r   f    s  as  memorials  to  the  fallen  among 


tiie  ere 

aine. 

;•-*>,./  J      1 

ti^ir 

Ik 

tne 

place 

11   the 

sun. 

n  T 

th., 

airgel}' 

wear 

\Vi/;-'' 

m  the 

ruud 

aeid 

»VH'a 

A 

i.if 

HelJao 

d.- 

Drej 

iliie   i; 

1  i  Is  L 

ih= 

ink  the  northen 


w 


ti 


td  their 
folk  v^rv 

le  essential 


province  of  heaths,  but 


I 


248 
also 


ON  THE  ROAD  IN  HOLLAND 

aks  and  much  woodland.    Vries 


I  i 


d  JiiOSt    611.  •->•'  «v\' 


'PQ 


if'a^'  ^'rV 


a       I 


1  I 


W'e   iiuitj 


;  f  i 


ULliVL 


i:Ail:zy  the  i:an..i 
iii^^'vitabie  i^-iU\rf\  It  w  true  tLa*  ^L 
a-  *l:U!:  ia^r-.  af  comrn  aa'-'atio!;.  -;:.'a  <i- 


ia   ,N(.r'{    WHlani^;  OaTial 


ru 

iU      it     IS 

\  ■■■ 

.   T                    r    •;.',_•,   i 

>U(a[i   an 

,    V 

canals 

1  ^ 

•ntsche 

'.at     Vuli 

a\'  f  r- 


ur  D^'V 


iM-t,  a-f 


t 


'  \' 


L)  ul 


feature  elsewhere. 

runs  beside  a  pubKc  road, 


a 


-nrm-T  or  ]a^pr  th*  r^^  wlll  be  -^^!    H  board  with  the 
one  w   r  i      -n-u:      ati  it  in  proi  *  a^tters.     This, 

iii>'-'i    ^^  otraa-,"  is  an  injuh  *;  ■;     *>■   --  ;  -■  ■ ' 

:;'  tr -a^^  to -tfave  their  sail-.  ■    '  '    .     ■:         ■   . 


r  ,  r* .-  ■  ^ ' 


'i 


alid     LiiC    L 


w  •::'l 


KaWltap.p 

■^  ■  :  f',-<v    .a     T  f   .. 


o ' 


-u.:  liuiiand. 


I 


•  h^rish  any  warmth  of  feelincf  -  ^  '^:■^- 
r       ilongside   the   Dnit     ne    Hoofd-v 


on   t'.i   M^a^ 


fr  is.  qua  rnnd.  r-  • 


I  lit-ra   IS 


f  * 


an  ufa-n  i;l„.  unjirtjpu^ou^s^xiig,  uraggle-iau'd  viHasfe  ; 
r    I   r   a    bargee   sort   of   fut-at-elbows   1       k 


"O 


place. 


1  liXULLljX^L  Ui 


^   ,  ■■   I  '■   ^  y 


.  IX  Li  t       '^'  X  ^*i- 


1 


B£:£S  ON  THE  HEATHS 


249 


1  1 


I J   i.  -I  •     I 


hit 


rhyme,  "  As  I  was  going  to  St.  Ives,"  for  the  way 

was  pro  abc^iunal  with  many  women,  a  proportion- 
i  1  number  of  men,  and  infinite  pigs.  In  the 
rhyme  ''  each  wife  had  a  cat,  and  each  cat 
Here  everyone,  who  was  not  driving 
a  lean  cow,  or  chasing  a  goat,  was  herding  porkers. 
1  ha!  i-  Drenthe !  heaths,  Hunnebedden,  rather 
>  I  at  i  1  ua  ages,  and  swine.  Meppel,  at  the  termina- 
iHiii  a  all  tiiis  phantasmagoria  and  also  at  the  end  of 
Dreiithia  is  the  capital,  not  of  the  province,  but  of 
all  this  agricultural  business  ;  and  there  is  not  much 
to  c^av  of  It  but  just  that.  But  the  purple  heaths 
;  !-  beautiful.  To  them  the  bees — for  Drenthe 
is  a  great  bee-keeping  district — are  taken  when  the 
heat  La  I  is  in  bloom.  The  hives  are  taken  by  trek- 
schuit  and  cart  to  those  honey-bearing  wilds  and 
placed  thrrp  for  that  season.  We  in  England  owe 
ii  a  i  a  i  in  these  last  years  to  the  Dutch  bee- 
ia  aiar  1  a  vvi  entile  so-called ''  Isle  of  Wight  disease  " 

English  bees  and  almost  wholly  de- 


ha 


f  niiul ated  uur  own  hives,  the  importation  of  Dutch 
queens  immune  from  the  infection,  saved  the 
situation. 

ft  \-  well  waith  while  to  explore  into  those  heaths, 

I,    coming,    say  to   Hoogeveen, 
literally,    ''  high    iiipadows." 

Mri^  \  ■■!"*•    -  la  i   ■  ^  ' 


tal^T  \\nli 


a:'       lai'at; 


1 1 


i-jLi.Otxiik> 


are  "  veens."    At  H 


UldlilXV    U;.-    lu- 


_.   -  ::.aiday,  the  Protestant  com- 

Td  invited  to  church  by  tuck  af 

-  i-ringing.    There  is  an  "  Enge- 


250 


ON  THE  ROAD  IN  HOLLAND 


land  "  village  in  tlii 


n  f ' 


one  of  the  many 


similar    name?,    iriaunu 


WcirM.ei, 


ot  our  ao^ ^'•>tv»r:^  tO.?ri\~i;o. 


f  h> 


}•  ? 


rii^'iT 


Leeu- 


iruiu  t;i:-  ^ 

''HHit  r\-  :   a   i:'{>ii- 

.v.]     :■•      'V.-U 

'     •HHOhMf    Onint 

'"          '       .!                           "V            f      "        '         '^ 

^^    ta.:t   in    iaii- 

t  r  ]  "■'     ;  '^Tf^. 

i'-r  ooiO-  0  IS 

true    * 

oa'    the    Joo,':i 

"a 


I, . , 


)♦  ■ 


li^iiiiiuii  i    uuii:{)ri'heii- 
sion.    \'^ 


I  )/■•; 


!  1 


get 


I Oi ra'^r>s  * 


such       as 
\V;  I    ;     de    bel?  " 

\m:'  i~  O'O'  Oi-iiws?  " 
'"  Wo  kost  het  ?  " 
''  li.j  1:3  miju  \riend," 

a  vriend" 
vriend." 


THE   STAPHORST  COSTUME. 


or 

,  J., 
1  n 


air 


I;,f.TV     WP 


I.  1 1 1 


iUi 


f  xr'/ro>5a">n 

01  r    HOtO" 

f*_)r  aii  ririe. 

1  Li  >.!  I    I  >    0  * ; '. ' 

!.or      sia'jp 

1 

i>  to  ioo^asr 

you   see    an 

ad\'^at:-taii 

\  t  '.    !       dJ  Li  ill 


[V 


J> 


10,  !.raoa.o\*  iano\o 


'  '  ■  '■■■ '  J 


'V'uU    ivIiUW    it    liiCaliS    a 


v4  f 


L  u  '--^    J^  cl  u  i  i  * 


THE  STAPHORSTERS 


251 


liurst 

road 


'1  Ti  ri    n ' 


T 

111' 


time,  it  provokes  a  smile.     To  those  same  ears  the 
Dutch  name  for  a  stud-farm  is  an  abomination,  and 

i  d^  no   or  uijose,  therefore,  to  print  it. 

I  h     Oh  o      o>nishing  place  in  this  region  is  Stap- 
it  has  a  railway-station;  it  is  on  the  main 
0  Z  V   de  and  so  not  out  of  touch,  geographi- 
vviik  tiic  world;  but  it  remains  as  exclusive 
peculiar  in  its  habits  and  costumes  as  at  any 
ii'^i'.'  i\   was. 

lie  re  the  children  wear  an  invariable  costume 
of  red  and  blue  ;  the  girls  up  to  six  years  with  a 
iuuud  furry  cap.  After  that  age,  they  have  the  very 
ad-dress  of  the  district :  a  parti-coloured 
1  shape  something  between  a  horn 
i^r'f^  tall  cap.  They  look  in  silhouette  at 
ce  like  the  strange  animals  we  read  of 
oed  the  world  before  geological  conditions 
settled  down.  The  Staphorsters  know 
diat  the  world  thinks  their  st}  a  peculiar  ; 
but  while  they  cling  to  it,  they  resent  being  noticed, 
and  violently  refuse,  as  a  rule,  to  be  sketched  or 
phot  f?  iidi  a  They  are  an  aloof  and  surlv  people  ; 
most!}  t  agricultural,  and  especially  of  horse- 
bictMlirig  occupations.  Their  horses  look  almost 
(not  q  dtv.  f )!  that  would  be  impossible)  as  peculiar 
•  IN  themselves  ;  tall,  lanky  steeds,  thin  in  the  flanks 
and  loTOT  io   the  leg. 

Ta  ^  :  the  province  of  Overyssel.  The  river 
id,6oi,  uhich  gives  it  the  name,  runs  into  the  Zuider 
Z       past   Zwolle    and    Kampen.     I    came   through 


])f 

loftv  all 
arid  a  it- 
some  uo 
that  iidrt 
had  quit 
quit 


.  Ll- 


\\  <, 


ft-' 


252 


ON  THE  ROAD  IN  HOLLAND 


Mt'py^  ■    nil    Zwirtesluis   and    ^lo^pv   TTn^selt    into 
Z\v.  n»     wf     i     althoiisfh  near     !'    \  ssel,  is  actually 


on    tf.u' 


/., 


■■  Wj' 


i:     IS    a    <pJ^*"'-     pfiin     i'*\ 


ot 


liC. 

I 


1  hJ/Ff    alu    li^u    iWu    iflijcil    LiiinciiCS 


L  '_■'  > "' 


I    ■    t    ! 


licit^,',   the   > 


'    O-r    L:u] 


nr-ttv    llutrh     J-:]:- 


lis,   and   th 


o 


"^  1 


(-.>-iri    TOTf 


'\  ! 


wneie 


;^^• 


r'j  ,  ? 


useu    tn   r^-. 


Ci  t        i.i  i 


i  A  i   A   i 


;  K-    iii   white  starched  frilly  things 

iitLi^  CcirU  ana  vu^M'i:-  ^u  bri!/htly 
hey  make  you  blink.  1'  ^  n;  rv^f, 
:'?  =  -   ai:J  walks   where  the  rtHiipuits 

I  X  lie  is  now  -f-^sidentinl  nv.f\  not 
Mil    mediae valism. 


"^ 


.\ .\  \  it  I 


Ynii 


Kampkn    i-  in>t  the  onmnQifn  kind  ui   pidCT 

r.-'.    lii'V    a    ii<iniiai-„;lty,    ii-a'    ZuaJF^    it     k    far    uaa-ti 


liCJl- 


pU;t,  ur^'SFiu^-.    ali^l     il     r-    all    ajil  n-a  illii!:    KHju    oi     pitu/ia 
^  ^)U  letP  tlA\a.iIFia  it  a::r5yuu.Uu  lu  a  ;bLi'U  V  Uug^  aia,l  Witlad 

II  vijii  ooiiid  ilu  >Fi  pat  *^  fan  tna  ]a.-al  and  say  ''  Poor 

uld  Kaiiip^-ii  '  "'     Tii^Tr  ],^   Ho  d'-iia    caf  iia  extreme 


antiFjuitvp  rnr  tna  lu-uii^  1?  'P 


I  F-aiul' 


It   I-   nnt    iiaarnan   rmt   riiHM.;avFn   m   aJiuast   its  avarv 
circiimstaniaa     A   frioiidh'    find' 


ni{'-a.i!Vii   atttarifpFW    oi 


Its     ilOOd     old     da\'a     PfFfVapa:^      tfir     taWfi,         'I'litFra      VVl 


t 


■ 

\ 


KAMPEN 


253 


come    through    the    archway    of    the    Korenmarkt 
I'     ID,    with   its    portly    white-washed   towers,    or 

'^''■-'"^^■'^  tli'jcc  ulP-Ff  gates,  tho-e  oi  tde  Gellebruad^a^^-, 
«         ^Z  ^   and  the  H.     :  - 


u  I  use  am 
the  fiftt 

iron 
old 


ill'  1 


very  great  . . , 
intiquities.  1 ' 
century,  an 


ways  at  once. 
'U   of   com 

sentences  wiLuiJi 


*       i     celled  justice  whicl. 

I    a  ,matic  among  all  such  i;     a;  :    :  that 

li  di  is  divided  into  two  parts  by  a  screen      On  this 
side,  let  us  picture  the  public,  the  accused  and  his 

^  ^^^-^^^  •  ^^^  i    *n  tha^  we  imagine  the  judges  as  they 

sat,   invisible,   to  try  the   cases.     The  screen  was 

actually  and  visibly  what  we  style  in  our  lei£al  phTFi^eo- 

logy  "the  Bar."    The  ^     i  and  the  invis 

are  ever  the  most  daunting  ;  and  to  face  that  uubaua 

I)  Fir^h  aiai  address  it  and  hear  its  pronouncements 

a-        a  F  been  a  severe  ordeal  alike  for  counsel 

ii  p   iuuui:>cd.    More  favoured  than  the  folk  of  those 

tunes,  we  may  pass  through  this  screen  and  see  the 

ten  elaborate  stalls   in   which    tuuai'     li  fffo-ois   of 

justice  sat,  with  a  huge  sculpt iiied  chimney-piece 

to  keep  them  up  to  the  mark  as  aiap   la  laa ;  sculp- 

tufv  a    including   that   representinp    tlie  ^ 

s 


254 


ON  THE  ROAD  IN  HOLLAND 


TiOt 


lll'?itili 


them   to   ho   in^f   and   spare 


l\d 


It'] 


lit. 


•on 


iiiA 


rotliam  of  Holl 


clJiU 


In    men  of 


Wtjl't; 


L  lit' 


1  Li  i  'J  I ' 


til 


T    ' 


li  I  !|  1 1 !  V  I :  I  pp 


O 


P' 


rs 


1    V 


foolisli 


/.-■'  /? 


TAKING  TOLL  ON   A   CANAL. 


thing. 


TT. 


■   Lj.    ■.  I    I. 


h  !    knows  that  Kampen  has  the 

1      r  's  to  say 


V,  /    i    »  ">  T    1    -^    r-  ^--^  1^ 


XcililMt'Li     iUivf 


,l\ 


iciilM, 


t  f  .  I  ,  -^  - 


TiV- 


^  1  '-  ( 


Ix 


,,l 


■J.IiljUt 


ilii  pi"'  i  \  {. 


-U'_     'JmLi 


Jli^ 


S.      ISu   Uiic 


evrr    ln,'ttei>:d    tlic 


iicj^f^d   resolution  of  the   town 


DE  VENTER 


255 


council   following   on   a   discussion   about   the   in- 
efficiency of  the  fire-engines.     They  resolved  "  that 
i    III      vening  preceding  a  fire"  all  the  appliah  u^ 

Jiiu>t   \io  overiiauled.     The  "wise  men  of  Gotham" 
r    i  cused  of  building  a  wall  to  keep  in  liu^  ^ua    „  w, 
;e>rrve  the  simiiuer  :   and  the   lown   council 
f  K  unpen  are  said  to  have  roofed  in  a  ^    1  to 

it  from  the  sun's  rays. 


i  11 


AUiH 


:f       t   Ho 


»    ^  t 


WuUUuli 


^Fezep, 


quaintest  object  I  saw  by  t^^ 

^'^5''  ^''.n  Hf'  kaiijpen  was  an  extremely  fat  v.,   ■ 

tliat    iii    ll.ai.jhu    Hii^  wuuid  l:n;  straiipV'},    .^ 
to   r)p   aiiuinia     .lau    angling   uwkwanilv        .^ 
iq  1^^<  i  i^  -ku >\,i  that  what  looked  like 
r  >  1  iial  Jiiie  was  really  an  ingenious  wa 
toil   Iruiii  a  vessel  below,  by  the  aid 
shoe. 

From  Kampen  to  Deventer  I  came 
Heerde,  and  Veesen,  crossing  the  Yssei  i,  ferry ; 
ail  1  so  past  the  busy  brickfields  of  01st  which, 
i^^  ^-^  va\  of  brickfields,  smelt  rather  much.  The 
^^  * '  i    i  1  uljio  river,  far  broader  and  finer  somehow, 

tlian    n 

baa  a--. 

]\  <  k:,      famous    as    a    local    delicacy    throughout 

^i       iio   i-  -  j-^mger-bread  cake  by  no  means  so 

iricli  vidual  as  might  be  supposed,  nor  so  good.    Rather 

toudi   and  rubbery,      k     th.c  similar  "  Koek "   of 


0 

expected  to  find  it ;  with  long  strings  of 

laviirating    it,    and    steamers.     "'  Davaiiter 


jjMVta'ittM' 


dts  stately  lo 


T- 


''fi 


crossed 


/)^   a   wtjuucii  bridge;  the  tower  of  St.  Lebuinus' 


256 


ON  THE  ROAD  IN  HOLLAND 


diurch   pr»^^'5irin;ij"  i>yvT  an 


,    \   ~  i,   i,   T' 


and   iritf'it'-   wiuiL^orVf, 


t  SI, 

,     V  .    ?  ;  i   '         -,  J  ■  I  1  :  •)  T  I  * 


(  -  [■!;-  [  t 


t, ii  i  :  i  iv 


•.    ♦     i  .      »     I         .  V    .   ,    .  i       .  i    - 

a  I  ill     tfinruuaia 


and   iri  outline   n,^a: 
ve^^io^    ot    that    ul    tna    ii«ji...a.    •    •* 
at  V>  i:Mia.iJi,MCi. ,      1  iiv    ^» -/  ■  -    • 

malefactors     were    tiaav    aarhnght 
a^   would   appear   fr^an    an    afa  i-nt   ^ 
su-Dended  out^rie   the  wrigliaa,e^t-.a 

-i. 

{,}{  cuiii  weri:  bo i led, 

8oiit.h    of    iJevrnoa,'   the    t'ov^r^^    of"   Z;aidi-n    ^oon 

appear.       ilil^    i-    tn.a.ualxai:h.     •  ;.v .      .     ,     ^  , 

vmce  in  Holland  tu  that  of  laiaJai 
to  iind  MI  tia?  Xethera.ua i-  :ea\-  k 


I 


1 ) 


1  "1 


n 


r-    t  I     ...,  l i  .1   }  '  I  i.    -.-• 


'I  r  =  a    5  ! 


linT   1  he  --^taitaO'  a-  fseaUtO 


t  nc 


truth  tia??e  ar^  n.ot  ui'eat. 

ful  and  in  part-  |eirkdike.     J^ 

1     ia:     uui    uaii   English   county   of 
i    ae  chosen  by  the  weaHlii-r  and  more 

^^,      Hare   the   phaiter    n'-ai,   Jir\at    vr 


'si-    t  , 

•r'l    i  i 


A.  i  i 


>a!iiatia,    01 

i.  K.I  all  L  1.    »       ^■ 
i  :        {  '  1  L       \y  i  >- 


'-»cifb 


I    I 


1.  C''  O I 


1 1.)  i  i 


•■  ( i 


v^ 


an   iioi:^ 


1  '.Ji.      ill 


IS  a  n  »  T" 


w  ii  i  I ' 


i  L 


Ti-irf ;:    of    tll^    I  hOa 

a    elf  on  the  land,  in  some  ornate 

Om    ?i.a    laiOW   how    liie^e   iuiiv   hit 

i  a  ra  famihes  of  Haeldres,  who 
vet,    and    are    piv:..a    thouga    net 

Ma-ia  TToUand,  as  in  modern  an\- 
aa       to-dav  who  has  th 


ra 


t  a  I ".    •  <  r  •  I  • '  t  i  n  t'    t  -  •  n  a  M 


1 1 


!  1 


lan'i  ar^a  it  h- 
tiie  "  \  eiuwt',. 


dhat  IS  the  re 


0 '  r  -  i 


he  harren.     The  ancien' 


yiiie 


Ol  Geideiiand  le  u  pr^a. 


'- ifcf'«. 


i 


V 


#   r.&a' 


957 


in 

o 
< 

Q 
Q 


» 


o 

H 
» 

< 
H 


at 


V 

I 


I 


ZUTPHEN 

"  Hoog  van  moed 
Klein  van  goed, 
Een  zwaard  in  t'hand, 

Ts  t'wapen  van.  CJelderland." 

That  is  to  say : — 

'"  ii!  courage  high, 

ill    small   r^>tatt^.   bin,    irood  ; 
With  sword    h 


259 


1 1  i  t ' 


Th 


1    5> 


C    ai'ni:5    Ui 


7-^ 


•Hi*"!  I     ^^ 


^  r  s !  r  - 


"^Irvline,    witii 
ma   up   like   r 


»>i 


exainpiO' 


T] 


i  !l    it 


uiic  ui  Durer's  en^i^  tvn 


aXliibiliun,     ViiXhvT    liiaij     tta;^ 
,;]  \'  a.  11  a  TOW? a  rn''^>i'*^  T[Pi\v^\"  rt 
:-;   fa>    riMaar"-   etchings 


..-    and 
tural 


I  !QPQ 


^iur 


c 


ai 


I  t  ■ 


fl.o    viaw    of    HTIV    nihrv    i:a:a'*.'     I     i-:-aa\\ 

111  Matthew  Arnold's  phrase,  does  Zutphen 

wiaaDei-  (r^uii  liur  tcA\t:r:>  the  iabt  eir/hantments  of 
the  3iid,i'-  Iges";  just  as  lia;  Li^+.-ra  ra^-an-^s  the 
last  filuudy  doings  ui  t:=.._  m^'^irj/vAl  w;Ha.  aiid  the 
luaiidi  f,a-'^itv  of  the  Rmht-'---^-  •  :  ■  -■  captuie  of  the 
17::      The  name  r  -n  is  famihar  to 

lit  11.  bv  reason  of  Uic  u.. ^.xo  of  that  name, 
:>  i;wn,  I"  r^"'- English  against  t' a ^'  ^aa!:';:^^^-  ; 
;.     n  whioh  Sir  Phi  p  >.aiiey  was  mortaaa 
! ,     Tne  battleheld  was  actiiallv  at  U  ariisveia, 


t^ 

>  \\    !  ; 

]•, 

a :_,  i 

;  ■'-- 

t 

',  I ...  i 

.i    ■■ 

tf 

;   <   i     • 

1  ■-■  A 

d 

town  t       la    north-east. 


The  \\>iiini 
E[erk,    OthaiaviM' 


'  V     Mr 


h !  u"  ta  r  i  T   i  1 1 


^  \ 


y 


S  ;       1       !      > 


taiNW, 


U  a,  „ , 
n  \  Ii 


Ui'uute 


iiai.i  Ilia  re 


26o 


ON  THE  ROAD  IN  HOLLAND 


i  i  1,4  .;.  ' 


('I  >r.   W  ciipuigis  has  an  ancient  and 
ni:\    Wiin  n  stone-coined  roof.     It  was 


l'*r   Vdii   iii'i'   >li.'Avn    jt    witli    must 


-^'— the   nn 

Lu   it   lo    lii 


01 


:  I.'  -il  il 


ii:^  !^^  va1  times,  ^"'m n  such  things  could 


„i  I ' 


.ii<ii  I    'veiW't'ii    I  i 


i  H 


fast,  and  J  u   ^  .une  to  thai 

Kiit^-u-n  t!:-?.  t,,  h:i:i  rln^  !'.■■  :i„  with  some  extremely 
apjutisingr  ri;,?  ps.     The  monk  fo1!    t  .!>,    nri^j^fp  ^nd 


1 1  f . 


J I 


a  fi  d.    t  i 


I  >*  vii.  iK  cording  to 


ces, 


I  f  • 


?   : 


\     s 


l'd">H  ii.'l,!t  lai  ^  J  la- ■!'.!* a";; t  La  ;-  a!.- 
tia/  T'^i.'l  iV<a::  Zut|,)ia/a  Tm  A  r^  r-na  Tt  is  n  lovely 
i-'-'i.  ra.ua'  a:-!HM:,-  hv  t;.  a--*  ^  avenues  that 
strateii  avvav  lui  i^^in^::,.  la-a,  ^a-.a^keren  you  come 
to  tba  rrn=--Tr,ir].^  n^  fi;..  Miaajchtea  \llee.  !T-re, 
in  even    -  a  -tion,  the  beeches,  of  a  great  height, 

I     a  a  nity.     Count  Bentinck's  country- 
VI    a  li  stands  in  the  woods,  away  to 


^ i: L il  I 

seat  (  f 

the  ri^ 
T   t/ 
and    1 


my  ease  at  Dieren,   at  the   ''  Kroon  "  ; 

on  there.     Not  that  the 


.ffable 


t 


."_i:3 


coT^vai  a^  '.r-  nr^r-vr^  auspiciously.  As  with  all  Dutch- 
men, 11-  i^i a  of  aa  Ja  glishman  led  him  to  be  polite 
ar  i  v>  t  i!i:  Imglish — of  sorts.  Fa  ^ogan,  by  way  of 
r  a  a_  aiself,  by  saying  that,  unlike  most  of 
lii^  cauarr  a  a,  hv  loved  ''beastly  things."  This 
1^     !!       a      tmosphere  which  would  have 


i  -   <  ■*.  ^ 


I 


{ 


A  SPORTSMAN 


261 


been  not  altogether  pleasant  if  it  had  not  been 

obvious  that  he  u  i-  a  sportsmaii.  and   meant  that 


hp 


I   )  V 


1  • 


fa--'  Ur«  --  \N  *  a  ■ '  ■     ■ 

:    «    idi  ''"i  :    -  a  '  '*  !    ■  I  !'  a 

1  iuii<    '    ;   a    H-  > 

:  •-  - .  - f 'MS  f  '^ : _  : :  .  '\  - ■  a  a' r* "- -  '  *  •  ^, 

part .     [ t r-  '  \, .. 

.    .a=  }  I  u^[<  -'  J!.      .  ' :.  a  tie 

w.i<    ,  .,  aa;-    ,     s 

fai   la-'  a   s|)urt>ia;ia,  i\\ 

^'\a:a'V  c^^aatia".^   !   ani  >■  a''a'  to 

sa\a     We    jt^a-Maaiaua-:^ 

nL^aiT    taa    aoiiiiitaais 

if   >port   m    Hn|'a,nr1.     Tueie 

Wia't'    IK  it    inaav    '^'  >\i'..j 

rtfaeia"   it    .ipf^earaH     n.    that 

rf.uiiitiaa     An   .la::   ,-,ua 

■.T,    fU'   t--i)a''d   a    s!a,ai'    -a'ana'" 

ia     consciousness 


!-aj    ci    aata,    iiripiJV    {}t-.ria.i},)>    in 

ut  tiia^  i!Ot   beiiia  a   '-p..atin::  t-ui.i,ntr}a  aiui  thnikinsf 

himstaf  saft*.     Mv   !r,aaa.'  of  iiata'^','  Jevrllr'.!   far-   'ju.!! 


:  ' ."-   ai\  :L  J   faaa 
•Ma.t^'d  ^a!  1  a  a 


\  i 


r  t 


^■^pHartaiiii  ..England  a 


w'ina,  a!:'!  n 


sitting ;  nui  \ 


a    to  bits.     I 

*  *  :  .1  -::  .«  a.  !K  and  that 
7aa  -l^n^*  !ard>-  on  the 
\uu^u.  \t  a  ijia:3L  iliem  into 


fr  ainaiits.  lie  seemed  to  think  the  doing  of  such  a 
tha  g  as  shooting  a  bird  in  flight  an  achievement 
incredibly  daa  ait,  and,  scenting  disapproval,  got 
a  good  deal  less  a  "  ible.  So  I  left  him,  meditating, 
no  doubt,  iiioie  of  what  T  call  murder,  and  recovered 
my  spirits  in  the  grateful  presence  of  those  murmuring 
avt  iiutji  nf  I  Lij.-^  mounting  so  loftily,  with  white 
i  d  ws  ol  ^kv  amid  the  blue  seeming  to  scrape  the 
summits  ci  them,  and  came  through  suburban 
Velp  into  Aifilicxii. 

\n      ai  is  seated  on  the  Rhine,  just  below  the 


'I    I 


262 


ON  THE  ROAD  IN  HOLLAND 


,1 
■0:7  n 


r,  ,■ 


trif 


a  I. 


>\l   >*''f- 


hil!-^     but    J^?'*!;tiv    fni 

are    tiie    surruunfiiiius 

Ar>a.*a:':       rlj.it      tan\ai      ^ 


?  1  i  I  ^  !  r  1  ! 

,   i  >    4    ^   t    >    '  I 


With  some  surprise, 

rest  of 
'    neat 


ot     t  I 


Is. 


If  a\a 


u !  - 


?•.'■•?■;   i  r 


w'hera  tli^^'  v;e<i!tii\'"  ni 
Ka:-^  InciiP-  laantrr  !*.\a'  t<, 

'taiia,!!.       Tf!^'   u-n=  .^  -  a: 


M' 


<"  r  M  f 


la 


■     (   ,  I    ;  j   a  •  I    1  *%,!;=      ft 

n  i    well-to-do 
i       n    Holland 

r,'^  n-,-/i     n  ;  ;  a  as 


*■  !■   .  .  -    .    t         ^    ■    ^    i 


a  Cfaiier-  ^^tttaniess,  ?  la*  -  h^jj 


a    'aaitilaniraL    ilit^/ri 
F'f  -r  t h'-  rC:-'^.  it   i^  fi< 't,  a ' 


X',  > 

f  f  i  ■     a  a  •  4      !  1  *  ;  I  >.     -^ :  I  i '  a. 


c  gives  it 


i  as 


fa!  ha     upulent 


]l011~"> 

Fi :  a*"^  f  i»a' 

n  a !_.     II 


i  1 ' .  It 


a   -iMf,^ 

\  V  aa"^ 


ra 


(  aaai 
la-aat 


1 1  •  • 


•a.L     a 


1  •      n 


•nake  the 
better  Tun- 
Nai    (juiitre, 

^      aa  as    the 


:f1.    if;; 


O        X 


-Liaii^cr    comes    to    see.     Nor    exactly 
lectric  tramways,  that  H  Hand. 
a  i  tiie  country  where  the  antique 
and  rii^^  mrhu.^  i-  tb?^  usual,  I  here  ta  ing  these  pages 

'  conscious  that  there  is  sufficient 
lijtiiai  volume  quite  as  large  as  this 
for  he  wh  I  wi  !    ^  to  go  and  produce  it. 


i  k  \  I  i  i 


LUL    a  a 


INDEX 


Alkmaar,  121,  123,  144. 

Almshouses,  23.  221.  223. 

Amsterdam,  lu,  2.i,  ud,  51,  97. 
110—118,     123,     124,     142, 
167 

Aa;-!raaarra    :n 

xkialiCiia     2*Uj — 263 

Assumburg,    Kasteel,    120 

Bennebroek,  98 

Benningbroek,    156 

Bergen,     121 

Bergen-op-Zoom,    38 

Bevelaiid,  2\u:Lii,  Island  of,  19,  32 
South 19.  29,  37 

iiu.c.uara,    l-i   -190 

Breda,  3U      1 7 

Broek-in  ^\  iLerland,  125 

Buitenpost,   236 

Canals.  10,  17,  111,  117,  120,  125, 

1  a.    ]  :^,  167,  255. 

Charles  the  Second,  45 

Cheese,  i «  3    U  i 

Costume,   24—27,   37,    123,    126, 
131— J  12    170.   195.  250 

Crown  Prince  Wilhelm,  155 — 166 

Currencv,   2; 

Cmi',    Aibfrt,   51 


De  Hooch,  Peter,  217 

Dekema  State,  213—220,  222 

Delft,  56,  64—68,  76 

Deventer,  255 

Dieren,  260 

Dokkum,  222 

Dordrecht,    48—53,    94 

Dortsche  Kil,  The,  48 

Drenthe,  Province  of    a  2-  2^249 

Dronrijp.  220.  222 

Duiveland,  Island  of.  19 

Dutch  Tiles,  68—76 

Dvkes,  17,  19,  30—32,  126,  130, 
157,  172 

Edam,  124,  142—144 
Enkhuizen,   150—156,    170,    183, 
210 

Etten,  39 
Ewijksluis,  156,  169 

Farm-houses,     196—210 

Ferwerd,   235 

Finkum,  235 

Flower-farming  at  Haarlem,  102 

Flushing,  15,  17,  23 

Franeker,  223—225 

Friesian  Cattle,  199—208,  211 


363 


I 


INDEX 


Friesland.    16,    39,    40,    69,    90, 


]■; 


1^3,   li)5~236 


^  ^,  ti":\:i''':   '"""^vvr;   Prince  Wilhelm, 

,_Tr(.)riirij''-n .    .>■'     J  ■<*''     J.->)      Jlj 

Ha.!"-  ,;, 

liarh!--ri,  211,   2::^',   222,   22j-~- 
225 

]Ia~  — h\    2.12 

11:.-:,.  2;;.> 

If  2i. •„.-•:..    fls 

H;r.  2-1.  -:•■■'-.    ^  T2      ]^'l   22^   231 

Hinnerin  ,  'i  -    .  2*  =  i    :.a  ■: 

Hippolijtushoef,    s  .-^^    1?  I 

H'jj  u  f  r  1,     2">.'> 

Hoogeveen,    21  J 

H  -K     t  fioiiand,  The,  15 

H     '  ;     ill    -15"'.  15  r  210 

H  US  ten  Bosch,  l<*j 

fi  1-,-  2-  i  i-:.    The,    242—247 

Ji   J    'line,  Countess  of  Hoiiai.d, 


Kolhorn,  156 
Krommenje,  i^i> 

K    2uc'     22:: 


h 
K 


"■-■\A 


ua-s!-; 


f ',      f  '*■ 


Lisse,  2  b 


U !  <  -.  -  ,   ;  1  ;^ 


Ma.i-     Kiver,  19,  31,  4^  :,2,  u4. 


ai 


3!a/H. 


5.4-,.  J  i        ,  i.      M«    tJ    ,  X     i-*    '^  -*-       -*-  -!•'    g 


u  ci:^uia,  222 


?51— 2S6 


■■  V  .:l  T-  V  i    ,  '„.     *  iii  ^        1  *«r  1 


Marsau-:.  222 

M~rr^  2  2  In 

^!     Hi       f:     er,  50,  94 

).^  -v:  '.    •  '.  r:.  r''a 

M    i     Iburg.  23— 32 

Mid  would   .    2    7 

Moerdijk,  The,  4  7 

Monnickendam,     124—130,     154 

Nieuwe  Schans,  242 

North  Holland  Canai,  120,  124 

North  Sea  Canal,  120 

Oever,  158 

Olst,  255 

Ooryzer,  The  Golden  Helmet,  195 

Oosterland,    158,    160 

Oosthuizen,      11 

Orange,  Princes  i^i,  1^,  44,  56—58, 
91 

Orange,   Town   and   Principality 
of,  56  ^ 


INDEX 


265 


Orange-Nassau,  House  of,  12,  67 
Over-Flakee,  Island  of,  19 
uvc.jiiui,  Province  of,  251 

i2ti:i.--'    i}>     i7-i-.>o,    The    Hague, 
'  i  S 


12  riilir-^'^' 


Ui 


a-ai 

ii;n-3ilIllatiS'V»t  ^    ': 

24. "2    248 
Rold.-.   214 
!2j-'Laidaai,  39 

i  v^i  L  t !  1  < .  all  1 ,     1  .  ' 

a  4     J  f ; 


Tadema,  Alma,  222 

TerGoes,29,38 

Terpen,  The,  235 

Thalen,  Island  of,   lU 

Tijnarloo,  242 

Tiarrda,  Ki,ia2x.  2i« 

Xromp,   ,Aaa:;i.2    M;trtin,  66 

Tulip  Maiiiu.    i  ::  .    2jO- 102 

Tweeweg,  166 

Vau  Unia,  Mar^aretha    214 

\  i:'-ria  32 — ''>! 


•  <j 


iLfii 


23,  47,  49.  62— 


(  I 


Sassenheim,  98 

^^ci.a!  a  i.!;ao,   144 

^ -tni.ii.  River,  17,  31 

Sea-  vf-a.acii,  57—90 

Schouwcii,  Island  of,  19 

Sijbekarspel    156 

SirtemaStai  ,  2u0— 208,  222 

Sneek.  190. 

South  Holland,  48 

Spankeren,  260 

Spionen,  a -7 

Stanhorst,  250 

►-t  iL      ueneral.  The,    10 

bLa.    r  a    150    171,  183,  190 

Stedum,  237 

Stiens    235 

Stork^^     I 


«u< 


t. 


."*  a :  I :,.: 


ade,    236 


\  i,  aj  a  t,' ,  I  ■. ,i'  a '  a . 
Vermeer,  17  17 
Vogelzande,  98 

V    I      Jam,    123,    126,    130—136, 

ia    170 

Vrich,  54  2 

Waal,  River,  94 

Walcheren,    Island    of,    17 — 19, 
25—37 

**  Water-Beggars,"  The,  58,  98 

Waterstaat,  The,  9,  30,  31 

Westerland,  168 

West  Kapelle,  30—32 

Westwoud,  156 

Westzaand,   120 

Wezep,  255 

Wieringen,  Island  of,  155 — 166 

Wieringerwaard,     156 

VV  Ihelmina,    Queen   of  Holland 
13,  28,  55 

Willensdorp,  48 

•'  WilUam  the  Silent,"  Prince  of 
Orange,  12,  56—65,  81 


I 

4 


I 


ill 


266 


INDEX 


WiJIiam    tlip    Rpr-ond     King    of 

Holidj.  .i^   1  1:1      Lv; 


■th- 

I  <    -'.J  7 ,  ."s  ^  ^  5  i 
'I.-'  Third,  Kinif 


i'  n^land 


Wuestwezel,    47 


i  29 


Y.  n; 


1 1 


Yssel.  River,  94,  169,  261,  255 

Zaan,  River     1  iS 

:'■•■,'.  'i  '  :        Ms 
/'.a  aha  ■,  K  .     1  JO 

Zeeland,    iTovince  of,   IV  25    59 
Zierih  7rp     10 

Zuider   Z-  •      i  22     ]2"     12f'     1  I2j 

i^'*:      iT'-     1 75, 


147,  i5n^  i:>,: 


Zutphen,  2>; 
Zwartesluis,  :  V2 
Zwijndrecht,  52 
Zwolle,  167,  251,  .\.2 


m 


.JAI>i       8 


C';LUMBI.\    "\i^■^:^<ITY 

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expiration  of  a  definite  period  after  tiie  date  of  borrowing, 

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rangement with  the  Librarian  in  charge. 


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i 

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i  :i 


•!>!i 


ii£« 


''» 


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b-'^  ^ 


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COLUMBIA  UNIVERSITY  LIBRARIES 


002 


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Harper 

On  the  road  in  Holland 


h  d:5 


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-^i^n  a: 


\ 


r" 


y 


O 


o 


o 

< 

a 

a 

w^ 

uu 

(NJ  U 

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H- 

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